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At the great wine fair in Cerea, Italy, John Rankin and I found ourselves with a few free minutes, so we started tasting wine from Friuli. Our first stop was barely so-so: big wines, no finesse, high alcohol –similar and unfortunate characteristics of many wines of the region. At the next table, the first wine – Wow! A terrific ‘Friulano’. We liked the whole line up of Ronco Severo, a lot. At the third table (a very well-known Friuli producer): blah/more of the same old. We went back to Ronco Severo – Wow!

Stefano Novello, owner and maker at Ronco Severo, is making great wine, farming organically, using natural yeasts and a non-interventionist approach. The whites see some extended skin contact; they’re not heavy ‘orange’ wines, but they gain richness and structure in the most positive manner. The reds are some of the most elegant examples of their type – the Refosco, for example, is positively Burgundian.

We’ve been looking for wine from Friuli for a long time. While we’re happy – and honored - to sell the remarkable Radikon wines, it’s been hard to find much else that we were excited about (Duline and Bressan are also very good). Ronco Severo offers great quality and integrity; in a region rife with high-priced wine, they also offer quite good value.

It may be counterintuitive to think of January as a particularly stimulating month given the post holiday sighs and the accompanying feelings of decompression, but in the wine store, we love January! As inventory dwindles over December, the shelves are left empty, ready and waiting for us to fill them with exciting new wines. In the life of a wine buyer and sales person, it simply doesn’t get much better. These days, we look around the store to behold the glorious sight of an array of unfamiliar labels, not to mention new vintages from tried and true growers. This is a time when we are never at a loss for a fresh find to put in the hands of our regular customers, times when we are bubbling over with the desire to share our new acquisitions with friends and clients alike. Literally, there’s so much fun new wine at Chambers Street right now that making the day’s toughest decision: “what am I going to drink tonight?” has become even tougher. Highlights include old vine Saint-Nicholas-de Bourgeuil from du Mortiers, the unique and refreshing “Nacarat” from Claude Courtois, un-sulfured Petillant Naturel from Domaine L’Octavin, and… well… the list goes on to include the Languedoc, Galicia, Jura, Germany….

Special offer! Buy 6 bottles of Fourrier and receive a 10% discount.

We have a lot of wine from the fantastic Gevrey Chambertin vigneron Jean Marie Fourrier in stock (and we are anticipating the arrival of his 2009s sometime in the spring). Domaine Fourrier has really become one of our favorite Burgundy domaines. Most of his wine comes from Gevrey Chambertin but he also makes Morey St Denis, Chambolle Musigny and a great Vougeot 1er Cru, Les Petits Vougeot Vieilles Vignes. All of Fourrier’s wines are labeled vieilles vignes; most were planted between the World Wars. His Clos St Jacques vines were planted in 1910!

A few of our very favorite Beaujolais have just arrived, including the long-awaited 2009 Descombes Morgon Vieilles Vignes. Happily, this wine exhibits the positive aspects of the vintage without being over-extracted or too high in alcohol. This is certainly one of the best 2009s - case quantities are available for the moment, and an additional small shipment is on order. The 2010 Morgons from Domaine Desvignes are here, but sadly, quantities of these beautifully old-fashioned wines seem to shrink every year, so we are asking for a 6 bottle limit on the Cote de Py and Javernieres. Drink the lovely La Voute St. Vincent as you wait for these to age. Our friend Alain Coudert at Clos de la Roilette in Fleurie made some of the best wines we've tasted in the 2010 vintage. His vineyards, very close to the border with Moulin-a-Vent, and his meticulous winemaking, yielded firm, elegant age-worthy wines. This is the end of our inventory for the vintage.
In general the 2010 wines seem a it more austere than we expected, based on pre-bottling tastings last winter. We like the lower alcohol levels and firmer acidities - perhaps another 6 to 12 months in bottle will bring the fruit more to the fore. Expect a report on the 2011 vintage in mid-February...

What better way to cope with the now frigid climate in New York than with a six-course dinner featuring the wonderful Sicilian wines of the De Bartoli family? Recognized for his commitment to native Sicilian grape varieties, Grillo and Zibibbo, the iconoclast Marco De Bartoli was also well-known for his love of all things on wheels. His collection of antique cars, motorcycles and motorinos is legendary. Marco passed away last March, but his sons Renato and Sebastiano, with the help of their sister, Gipi, still run the estate following their father's passions and tradition. Please join us on Monday Januray 23rd as Sebastiano De Bartoli presents their great wines "a tavola" at Diner in Williamsburg, Brooklyn. We couldn't think of a better place to honor Marco's work than in the completely outfitted Airstream. This will be fun. The price: food, wines, tax, tip included is $125. There is limited space; please contact Leah to make a reservation: leah@dinernyc.com. Or, if your Monday evening is booked, please join us at Chambers Street Wines from 4-7pm on Saturday, January 21st, for a tasting of these wines.

The die-hard Jura fanatic may remember the wines of Jean-Marc Brignot, a young vigneron in the Jurassian town of Molamboz who disappeared as quickly as he appeared on the New York wine scene in the mid 2000s. Brignot’s Poulsard “Jouvenceau” and his Melon-Queue-Rouge “Les Mouches on Pied” left lasting memories on those of us who were fortunate enough to try the wines when they were available, memories vivid enough to prompt us to wonder what happened to the man, his quirky labels, his compelling and well-executed natural wines.

OK, it's not Once-in-a-Lifetime, but it's been more than three years since we ran a clearance sale, and finally the accumulation of more and more "last bottles" (or cases) forces us to clean out the cellar and warehouse to make some much-needed room for in-coming inventory. You'll find sensational wines here, many at or below cost, and although some will be limitied to a few bottles, there are case quatities to be had of some truly outstanding wines. Please be aware that we will be processing orders and updating inventories as fast as possible, but a few disappointments will be inevitable, for which we apologize.
Happy Hunting!

From an tiny village in northern France, this pair of wines, a Bourgogne Blanc and a Bourgogne Rouge, offers an irresistible melding of the known and the new. Complex, accessible, and charming, the wines have a certain classic elegance, a compelling delicacy, an ability to be enjoyable now, yet worthy of a few years in the cellar. Perhaps it’s an over simplification but these wines are really delicious; you should buy them, drink them, and cellar them. Terrific values, they speak both to lovers of the new, the esoteric, and to lovers of the known, the tried, and the true.

Vezelay is in the Yonne department, south and east of Paris, south and west of the Aube, and en route to Burgundy. By far the most well-known Yonne wine is Chablis; however the Yonne also features the Sauvignon Blanc appellation of Saint-Bris and the Pinot Noir appellation of Irancy. A well-kept secret, Vezelay lies in the very south of the department and comprises the villages of Asquins and Saint-Pere in addition to Vezelay proper. There are only twenty wine growers in Vezelay and a relatively large percentage of them farm organically. Asquins, where Patrick Bringer of Domaine les Faverelles lives, is an organic village; pesticides are forbidden here. Patrick farms six hectares of vines, roughly half Chardonnay and half Pinot Noir, spread out across the Vezelay appellation. For twenty years before taking up viticulture, he was a bookseller in Paris. His family is from Asquins and his wife is the mayor of the village.

We're very proud to offer the 2011 "Prologue" from Christian Ducroux, a wine that epitomizes the word "natural" in the most delicious and positive way. Christian's vineyard work is among the finest in France; he keeps plowing to a minimum so as not to disturb the flora and fauna of the soil; fertilizing is done only with composts from his animals and plants; fruit trees have been planted between each 5 rows of vines to encourage bio-diversity and "organic" treatments such as copper-sulfate, which are harmful to soil fauna, are minimized or eliminated. Yields are very low as are the alcohol levels which are usually between 10.5 and 12%. Fermentation and aging are in old wooden foudres and, except for one cuvee of Regnié, the wines are made without added sulfur-dioxide. Christian has reduced the size of his vineyards to about 4 hectares, which he can work by himself, the goal being a self-sufficient farm providing a life-style he enjoys, not to mention delicious wines which he sells at prices affordable to all. Not many winemakers share Christian's level of committment to his "model" vineyard, but this is not the work of an unrealistic dreamer. These methods are being applied, even to large scale commercial farms, through the work of soil scientists like Claude Bourguignon, whose principles of organic, no-till agriculture are proving more effective than the chemical-intensive modern farming which is destroying our soils. Perhaps Christian exists outside of the commercial wine world - there is certainly no Mercedes in his barn - and yet his work is important and the wines are superb!

It's our eleventh New Year at Chambers Street and once again we'd like to thank our great customers in Tribeca, around New York and around the country for making it possible. Your interest in small-production artisanal wines enables us to work with some of the nicest people and greatest winemakers in the world! (And a tip of the hat to Mike Steinberger at Slate who this year named us "America's Greatest Wine Retailer") Have a wonderful New Year's Eve, and here are a few sugggestions to help you celebrate.... (Scroll down to find our non-Champagne sparklers, starting at $9.99)

We're very proud to offer new arrivals from Benoit Lahaye and A & J Beaufort, many of which are only available in the US at Chambers Street. Although quite different in style, these two estates offer some of the most fascinating and terroir-expressive wines in Champagne and we urge you to try them.

There’s a special glint that some Champagne lovers get in their eye when the name “Benoit Lahaye” pops up in conversation. This glint is attributable to a certain balance between deliciousness and rarity that leaves the drinker struck by the wine whilst unable to procure more. An almost romantic feeling of longing for Lahaye is thus born in the drinker. When our good friend, Peter Liem, described Benoit as the village leader in Bouzy, we knew we had to get the wines, even just a few cases for the curious (ourselves included).

The outstanding organic Champagnes of A & J Beaufort come from grand cru vineyards in Ambonnay, and other parcels in Polissy, in the Aube. These are complex, full-bodied wines, fermented with wild yeasts and bottled after very long sur-lie aging. "We keep our wines sur-lie as long as possible before release. Converted to organic agriculture in 1971, the Beauforts only became certified in 1994. "Having been among the pioneers of organic viticulture, we protested against the payment for certification - it seems paradoxical to pay to not pollute!" Untreated soils, long sur-lie aging, no additives/corrections and minimal (if any) use of sulfites gives wines that are unusual and quite "old-fashioned." Quantities are limited and these prices are quite low given the unique quality of the wines.

While enjoying some Blaufrankisch and St-Laurent with last week's feast we couldn't help but start to think about how well both Austrian reds and whites complement late fall and winter cuisine. The reds can be earthy, woodsy and autumnal, while the best whites are a wonderfully savory combination of mineral and herbal flavors. Although Austria has a viticultural history that dates back to Roman times, in the not-too-distant past many of the wines were generic, dull and not to our taste. If this is still your impression of Austrian wine, it's time to check back in. Many small growers are doing all the right things: eschewing new oak barrels, throwing out designer yeasts and vineyard chemicals, and generally placing more focus on wines that speak of where they came from. More often than not, these are made from unique varieties not found anywhere else in the world. We continue to love both the peerless wines of the Wachau and the fun everyday liters of quaffing wine, but there's much more that the country has to offer.

Now is a great time to seriously investigate what Austria can do as the Gruner craze of the mid 2000s is just a memory but its after-effects remain: numerous small importers have entered the arena, spurred on by the idea that US customers are interested in exploring these wines. As with any wine category, the bad still outweighs the good, but we've picked out what we think are some truly special ones and we hope you take this opportunity to sample a few. Whether it's a perfumed Zierfandler from the Thermenregion, a terroir-expressive Blaufrankisch from Carnuntum or a strikingly beautiful Riesling from Vienna, exciting things are happening in Austria. -jfr

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Brunello di Montalcino is kind of a mess. For years the zone has been rapidly increasing in size as industrialists, ad men, and other wealthy gentleman farmers buy into the wine dream by establishing themselves in Montalcino. Abetted by ‘star’ winemakers and consultants– not all of them Italians, never mind not Tuscan – the zone has succeeded in producing a flood of very expensive, dull international style wines. The so-called Brunello scandal of a few years back came as no big surprise – winemakers illegally adding Merlot, Cab, Syrah, who knows what else, to their Sangiovese in the hopes of seducing the public (and, of course, He Who Shall Not Be Named) with their very expensive, dull international style wines.

Over the last 10 years we’ve tasted a boatload of Brunello, and it’s seemed almost impossible to find wine of character that spoke to our fond memories of old school wine from the 1970s and 1980s. Yes, there were still some good wines, although even some of the old guard appeared to be floundering. A couple of the most astute professional tasters we know spent, in sum, months in Montalcino, and found very little of interest – a discouraging report and a discouraging situation, and we thought of perhaps giving up on the category altogether. And then, to our delight and surprise, we found two Brunellos that we really like. They make a nicely contrasting pair – one a bit rustic but classic in taste to our palate and an incredible deal, the other very fine, elegant, also true in style – it ain’t cheap but it’s a gorgeous wine. Reinvigorated by these discoveries, we think we’ll find some other good Brunello in the future, but this is an excellent beginning. JW

A week doesn’t go by without at least one or two customers coming into the store wanting to know more about wine from the Canaries. I used to think of the cluster of Spanish islands as a semi-tropical vacation spot for European ravers. Until a few years ago I had no idea that Lanzarote, La Palma or Tenerife made good wine, thanks to the efforts of wine importer Jose Pastor.

At a recent David Bowler portfolio tasting (the New York distributor for this wine) I got to try a very distinct Canary wine from Fronton de Oro. Located in Gran Canaria, which is the second-largest Canary island, Fronton de Oro is reminiscent of some northern Italian wines, offering floral and earthy aromas, while its bright acidity is indicative of soaring altitudes (1000-plus meters above sea level).

The villages of Pernand-Vergelesses and Corton have been singled out as very successful in the acclaimed 2009 vintage. What better Domaine to demonstrate the merits of the two villages and the excellence of the vintage than Chandon de Briailles? This extremely traditional Domaine farms biodynamically, uses whole-cluster fermentation, does not use new wood in the winery, and bottles without filtration. In particular, the use of whole-cluster fermentation, which encourages the extraction of tannins from grape stems and seeds, marks the profile and age-ability of these wines. The wines, themselves, are approachable now but will last for many years with proper cellaring.

It’s almost Thanksgiving, and whether you’re hosting this year or dropping in on friends or family you’re going to need wine. With bird day right around the corner you may not have time to properly consider your vinous options, so we have collected six of our favorites for traditional holiday fare. This will leave hosts with the proper amount of time to worry about the dietary restrictions/needs of their guests (Celiac’s disease, Vegan, Kosher, etc.) and guests to try to plan engaging conversation with cousins, half-siblings, nephew’s girlfriends, neighbors, and complete strangers. And for only $99.99! For New York City please order by Tuesday to ensure delivery before Thanksgiving.

For a smallish shop we buy a fair amount of older vintage wine, and we are always looking. Partly a function of supply (low) and demand (high), it’s never easy to find
much in the way of Burgundy, and we are always thrilled to get even a little bit of good, properly stored wine. For a change it’s not just the grandest and most expensive trophies (there are some of those), but all very solid, fine wine, that’s just beginning to reach early maturity - a lot of reds from the great 1999 vintage, some very drinkable '97s, '98s, and 2001s, and white Burgundy from some of the best producers. All from meticulous private storage, we guarantee the condition of each bottle.

Reliable sources tell us that, although the Wampanoag saved the day by kindly bringing five deer to the party, there was no Turkey mentioned in any account of the first Thanksgiving. (Not the one in Virginia in 1609, I mean the one in Plymouth in 1621...) And yet, when I mentioned to my assembled family that we could thus replace turkey, stuffing, yams, etc., etc., with some nice Italian food, I was greeted by howls of derision and thrown out of the kitchen. So if you're having a "traditional" turkey-centric holiday, with or without venison, our staff has come up with, in my opinion, America's most delicious and interesting Thanksgiving Wine-List! Whether you're hosting a dozen wine-geeks from Williamsburg or your great aunt from Des Moines, you'll find delectable, affordable and appropriate wines for all... (Note: Those of you seeking mature Bordeaux or Barolo for your holiday feast should go to Browse by Region and select Bordeaux or Piedmont - you'll find a hundred or more well-priced examples from vintages back to the 1960's)

It's been well-known for years that Donnhoff produces some of the most thrilling, aromatically intriguing and just delicious wines from their various sites along the Nahe river. These fruity/sweet and nobly sweet dessert wines have long been prized by wine lovers of all stripes, but the buzz has been growing significantly in recent years over the equally high quality of the estate's dry production. Donnhoff's dry single-vineyard bottlings from such sites as Hermannshole and Felsenberg are stellar wines, but they're not cheap. Until now, the middle-ground between the high-end Grosses Gewachs (the German equivalent of 1er or Grand Cru, but only for dry wines, and only in some regions...sheesh!) and entry-level trocken wines has been poorly represented. As such, we're quite excited to be offering the 2010 Kreuznacher Kahlenberg Riesling Trocken, as not only is this the first time this wine has been offered in the US, but production was so small this vintage that Chambers Street Wines is going to be the only retail store in the country where you pick this up.

A perennial theme in the sphere of German wine is the battle of whether or not the wines ought to have residual sugar. Many German consumers say "no," while people around the rest of the world are saying "yes, please!" Our friend, Mike Steinberger, just published a good summation of the issue in Slate that is well worth a read, as is David Schildknecht's response. We're happy we get to enjoy both types of wine, so we won't take sides in the back-and-forth, but there is another, less discussed style that is quickly turning into our favorite: light, refreshing off-dry wines that taste either perceptibly dry or just barely sweet. Often times the term "feinherb" is used, or the wines are sometimes simply called "Riesling." Mosel Wine Merchant imports more interesting versions of these than anyone else, and the arrival of their growers' wines on our shores has greatly enriched our vinous lives by giving us the opportunity to explore and learn to love this re-emerging style.

Although a few of our tastings in Burgundy last winter encountered wines that seemed overburdened by ripeness and concentration, our visits to Rapet, Lafouge, Sabre and Bart were superb. At each estate the distinct characters of the vineyards were expressed with balanced acidity, good minerality and length. And yes, with lovely round fruit providing immediate enjoyment for the village-level wines and with ample structure for aging at the premier and grand cru level. We think these wines represent some of the very finest values from this excellent vintage in Burgundy! Our second and final shipment of 2009's from these domains has just arrived. Many of the wines will provide fabulous drinking this fall and winter, with even the premier crus showing youthful fruit over the next year or so before shutting down. For long-term aging we can particularly recommend Vincent Rapet's premiere and grand crus, especially after tasting his sensational 1985 Corton...

Save the date! Chambers Street joins nine other New York area retailers to honor Joe Dressner by raising money for Partners-in-Health. (2 to 6 pm, in the spacious confines of Ward Three, 111 Reade St.) We'll taste a wide range of current releases from Louis/Dressner Selections as well as a few cellar selections. $20 donation please, give more if you can! Here are excerpts from Joe's writing about Partners-in-Health, see also www.pih.org. "PIH has been doing amazing work in Haiti since 1987 and has transcended charity to create an entirely new model of self-help and reliance. The work they do has changed the lives of people who have no resources, people who truly need help and can find it if we help PIH train the doctors and nurses and build the hospitals. This will not make us better people, more righteous or morally superior. I will continue to be a complete asshole. But providing basic medical care in the Third World, through an organization that delivers, will help others become better and healthier."

Our ship has just landed with a new installment of wine from two very fine Italian cellars. Given a couple of weeks to recover from the trip, these will be a great treat. For a little variety, there are also a few newly arrived wines from Bordeaux. The condition of each bottle is guaranteed!

The reputation of Florian Lauer, proprietor of Weingut Peter Lauer in the Saar, has soared over the past few years. This is a mixed blessing for those of us that love the wines, as we're happy to see him achieve such great success, but it's getting harder and harder to get our hands on the wines. In fact, this year we've received more requests for his 2010s than those of any other German producer, with good reason: the wines are simply incredible. They're honest, vivid expressions of this atypical vintage, and the high-acid, high-extract characteristics of the year gel perfectly with Lauer's precise, nervy style.

As great as these 2010s are, the most exciting part of this offer is a wine that has just been imported to the US for the first time, the non-vintage Lauer Riesling Brut. Not only is it exciting to see a sparkling wine from Florian Lauer, it also happens to be one of the best Sekts we've ever tasted. It's not a well-known fact among American wine lovers, but the Saar has a long tradition of Sekt production, dating back at least to the mid-nineteenth century. Base wines for cremants or sekts need to have plenty of acid (it's no accident that Champagne is one of the northernmost regions of wine production in France), and wines from the Saar have it in spades.

The weather's cooling off, the kids are in school, everyone's back at work and dozens of new wines have arrived at Chambers Street. Perhaps the economy is causing some consternation, but our first email of the season features some sensational values. Life's too short to drink banal, industrial wines - we're proud to feature small production wines, many of which are organic and biodynamic, that allow the budget-conscious consumer to drink delicious, terroir expressive wines at reasonable prices. (We had to get the word "terroir" in there somewhere.) Please take a moment to peruse our first fall arrivals, and stay-tuned, as this will be an exciting season at CSW!

For those of you who missed our first shipment of 2009 Saint-Joseph from Jean and Pierre Gonon, we're happy to report the arrival of our second and last shipment of this great wine. The Gonons are blessed with some of Raymond Trollat's old vines and with great sites of their own with massale selection vines. Their meticulous organic-styled vineyard work and hands-off vinifications (wild yeasts, no new oak) give some of the Rhone's most satisfying and traditional wines. We are very proud to be working with Jean and Pierre Gonon whose personal integrity shines through in their delicious Saint-Josephs.

Most of you may be familiar with the Gonons, but may not have tried the the lovely northern Rhone wines of Emmanuel Barou. "This is a name to watch" says Livingstone-Learmonth in Wines of the Northern Rhone, "an organic enterprise since 1975, this domaine is emerging as a sound address for carefully made, natural wines." A traditional mixed-use farm, the Barous grow cherries, apricots and peaches as well as producing a terrific Saint-Joseph rouge, Condrieu and Vin de Pays whites from Viognier and Marsanne. The wines are sensational values with beautifully expressive fruit and good underlying minerality reflecting their 35 years of organic farming. We urge you to try them...

Day Three for CSW's Eben Lillie with Marc Ollivier at Domaine de la Pepiere...

Gras Moutons.

Today was a completely clear day, without any clouds. It was HOT! Every time I looked up and made eye contact with a fellow harvester the word that inevitably came out of both our mouths was "CHAUD!" I now have an official "winemaker's tan." My nose is almost as red as Marc's!

The Gras Moutons site is really beautiful. It's situated on the top of a hill, with plenty of wind and even a view of Nantes in the far distance. There are young and old vines here. In fact there are three different plantings. One that is about 15 years old, another around 30, and then the old vines which are somewhere between 50 and 60 years old. Marc's predictions were right. The old vines had more rot than the young. I asked him why and he mentioned how dense the leaves and the vines are. There were a lot of leaves on the old vines... easily the hardest vines to harvest so far, as the vines are so old and twisted and there are so many leaves in the way.

The weekend is upon us. The harvesters get Saturday and Sunday off but there will be some work to do in the cellar, obviously with today's juice, and in general preparation for next week. Just enjoyed a lovely outdoor dinner at Marc's home, and would have stayed outside all night if it wasn't for the "pique" from the mestique (mosquito).

Bon weekend!

In 2001, by the end of September, Eben Lillie was back on the street making delivieries for CSW. In 2011, he's in the Loire Valley helping out during the harvest at Domaine de la Pepiere and later at Clos Roche Blanche. Here are his first reports...
Wednesday, August 31st: Lots of rot (pourriture) in the vineyards, rain for 3 days last week has caused problems as the grapes bunches are consumed. Marc is worried about yields this year, as we were cutting off most of a bunch just to save 10 or 20 grapes out of what would normally be around 100. Luckily they have some new vineyards this year, one that is through the first year of conversion to organic and has very good soil and a good slope facing the sun, which we were harvesting today, called Les Tigres. We will finish that parcel tomorrow and move on to the young vines at the Briords site. Marc says he can't remember a vintage with this much rot in the vineyard since maybe 1994, and he simply can't remember a year with as much rain as they got in July and August. He's not happy but he says this year will really show the difference between machine harvesting and hand harvesting, and will show that the hard work in the vineyard and the close attention to detail is very important. They are tasting the juice every day, multiple times a day, to see how it is evolving... With the machine harvesting in the area, they usually have to add lots of SO2, then also use coal to absorb flavor from the rotten grapes, then because that isn't enough, cream also, so they end up with a juice that is completely flat, devoid of flavor. and then they add the yeasts.

The following is a roughly translated interview with Pierre Overnoy conducted by Francois Morel and appearing in his excellent book "Le Vin Au Naturel," reproduced here with the kind permission of the publisher. We encourage French readers to purchase this very infomative overview of natural wine-making, (easily done through amazon.fr) as well as the wonderful quarterly magazine "le Rouge et le Blanc" edited by M. Morel. Click "Read more" to continue...