Private Collection: Burgundy

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Duplessis, Gérard 2012 Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre

This Premier Cru is located along an ancient road connecting the Roman cities of Auxerre and Tonnerre, and the name refers to a point at which the road climbs up the slope to the plateau where Tonnerre sits.  Recently tasted, this wine is perhaps the most subdued of Duplessis’ Premier Cru wines, and begs to be laid down for five to ten years, or even longer. The nose shows chalky fruit redolent of pear and apricot that mingles with a distinct cheese rind aroma, which is rather compelling. Cool minerals on the palate and incredible focus hint at the long life ahead of this wine. Tim Gagnon

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Duplessis, Gérard 2012 Chablis 1er Cru Montmain

The Montmains vineyard lies on the left bank of the Serein River; its name means medium-sized mountain, referring to the elevation of the vines in relation to the two taller peaks surrounding them. A bit more restrained on the nose with telling notes of fresh cream, mango flesh, coconut meat, and enticing herbal characteristics. The palate packs a mineral punch with a racy acidity and delicate smoky notes which last onto a seemingly never-ending and stony finish. This will do very well with age! Tim Gagnon

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Duplessis, Gérard 2012 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos

2012 was a stark contrast to 2011. The weather was markedly harsh that year in many parts of France, with hail and rain punctuating the harvest season, resulting in incredibly low yields; however the wines made from this troublesome year are proving to be serious and delicious. This wine is very powerful with heady floral aromas when young, but it will benefit from a decade of aging. Tim Gagnon

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Boillot, Louis 2014 Gevrey Chambertin

From 8 lieux-dits from across Gevrey-Chambertin. Considering the escalation in prices at all levels in Burgundy, Louis Boillot's Gevrey-Chambertin remains a fantastic value, brimming with Gevrey character, while remaining affordable. The 2014 is heady, fresh, and cool-toned on the nose offering black cherry, plum skin, raspberry, game and woodsmoke aromas. Dark-fruited and savory flavors intermingle on the medium-bodied palate, with ripe notes of black cherry, hedge fruit, cherry pit, and crushed herbs. There is good mineral detail to this lending a sapid counterpoint to the fruit. Nice freshness here with fine structure lending an earthy, masculine Gevrey character. This punches above its weight and should reward 4-5 years of cellaring and drink beautifully for the next 10. John McIlwain

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Esmonin, Sylvie 2014 Côtes-de-Nuits Villages

From 50 to 85 year-old vines in "La Croix Violette" and "Les Vignois," mid-slope in Brochon, close to Fixin. 30% whole cluster fermentation in 30% new oak. The 2014 Cote de Nuits-Villages is a dense and well-structured wine with deep aromas  of strawberry confit and ripe cherry with earth, violet, oak and game. The palate is braced by firm acidity and supple tannins with dark berry fruits, sous-bois, spice and wood. Fabulous length and density in this rather brawny Burgundy which is enjoyable now but best perhaps 2020 to 2030. (Readers should note as well the Jane and Sylvain Cote de Nuits-Villages "Queue de Hareng," a similarly dense and structured wine from the top of the slope on the Brochon/Fixin border.)

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Esmonin, Sylvie 2014 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos-Saint-Jacques

From 45 to 55 year-old vines in 1.6 hectares with parcels at all three levels of the slope, 70% whole cluster fermentation, aged in 90% new oak. Always the class of the Sylvie Esmonin lineup, the Clos St. Jacques consistently illustrates why many consider the vineyard to be of grand cru breed. The 2014 is floral and effusively perfumed with aromas of violets, ripe black cherry, sweet spices, and a hint of game. The sophisticated palate offers flavors of plum, blackberry, iron, and a savory touch of crushed herbs deftly framed by some new wood, on a dense, detailed, layered, and lifted finish. Give this a few years in the cellar and check in from 2027 and beyond.  This is truly lovely and a fantastic expression of Clos St. Jacques!  John McIlwain

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Esmonin, Sylvie 2014 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes

From the oldest vines, up to 95 years-old, 60% whole cluster fermentation, aged in 60% new oak. The 2014 Gevrey Vieilles Vignes  is ripe, dark-fruited, spicy, and densely perfumed, offering aromas of violets, ripe plum and soil. Palate is sturdy, vigorous and concentrated, balancing vivid flavors of black fruits and earth with notes of game and spice on a robust and energetic mid-palate and long finish. This is a broad, strapping Gevrey-Chambertin, soil-driven and full of old vine minerality and detail and will need a few years to resolve its structural elements. A classy expression of the village and a fine candidate for the cellar. John McIlwain

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Fourrier 2008 Vougeot 1er Cru Petits Vougeot

This Vougeot vineyard is located next to one of the greatest Burgundy vineyards — Chambolle Musigny les Amoureuses. Possessing qualities of both Chambolle and Vougeot, the wine has a complex identity. In fact, Jean Marie says this is his most misunderstood wine. He wishes he could call it Chambolle 1er Cru because then it would be easier to sell. This Petits vougeot is very suave & sophisticated, mostly red fruits and perfumed like a Chambolle-Musigny, a very pretty wine.

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Fourrier 2013 Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Combes aux Moines

.87 hectares dating from 1928. Located north of Champeaux and Les St. Jacques. A warm climat that ripens consistently; a touch backwards in its youth, with time in the cellar gains depth and sophistication.

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Magnien, Stephane 2011 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Sentiers

Stephane Magnien's Chambolle Les Sentiers is a beautiful wine in 2011. From low yields of about 26 hl/ha, the wine has the round fruit of the 2011 vintage while retaining a great lightness and balance. Lovely chalky berry fruit and floral aromas, terrific depth and length with great mineral acidity. A delicious Burgundy that can be enjoyed in it's youth, best around 2023.

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Magnien, Stephane 2011 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru

This is a bit rounder and deeper than the Clos Saint-Denis, with stunning floral aromas of blackberry and red fruits. Fabulous mid-palate of round, profound fruit with great freshness and acidity. We've tasted only two vintages from the young Stephane Magnien but it's clear that he is making some of the most elegant and wonderfully old-fashioned wines in Burgundy!

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Magnien, Stephane 2011 Clos-Saint-Denis Grand Cru

From a tiny parcel of sixty year-old vines. This is a great bottle of Burgundy! It's sort of silly to describe a Grand Cru Burgundy based on a quick taste in the cellar—the basic message is that there is terrific structure in this wine backing up the glorious fruit, which is a bit more forward and deep than in 2010. Simply fabulous on the palate with great freshness, length and acidity. Superb, and will age beautifully...

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Magnien, Stephane 2011 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Les Faconnières

Stephane Magnien's 1er Cru Moreys are simply sensational in 2011! The Faconnières (old vines, just below Clos de la Roche) has gorgeous mouth-filling fruit and depth while retaining — as with all of Stephane's wines — a lightness and balance seldom found in modern Burgundies. Super-complex high-toned red fruits with earthy acids in the finish — really delicious and highly recommended, for drinking over the next 15 years...

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Tremblay 2011 Morey-Saint-Denis Tres Girard

Cecile Tremblay's Morey Saint Denis Tres Girard is from a vineyard located right by the steps of the Clos des Tart in the village of Morey Saint Denis. Black fruits, mure, very Morey St Denis. It is as different from the Chambolle Musigny as strawberries are from blackberries.

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