Private Collection: Jura, Loire and more

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Belluard 2018 Vin de Savoie Grandes Jorasses

The Grandes Jorasses comes from 100% Altesse, produced by Dominique Belluard. The grapes are grown with southern exposure, on soil of clay and limestone. The average vine age is 10 years. The Altesse is hand harvested before a long, 4 month fermentation with natural yeasts. Malo occurs spontaneously afterwards. 

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Gahier, Michel 2009 Arbois Trousseau "Grands Vergers"

The "Grands Vergers" is a fantastic parcel of 80-year-old vines in Montigny-les-Arsures that Gahier inherited from his father. These wines are quite age worthy, like the wines of Gahier's mentor, Jacques Puffeney. 2009 "Grands Vergers" offers aromas and flavors of raspberry and blackberry, an earthy mid-palate, and a mineral-driven finish. From a generous and ripe vintage, this is a powerful example of this wine that is ever so slightly more plush than both the '08 and the '07. A lovely effort from a talented grower who is relatively new to the Jura scene here in New York... -msb

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Ganevat 2016 Arbois Savagnin (Sous-voile)

We are told by the importer that this bottling of Arbois Savagnin is in an "oxidative style." It doesn't appear to be the "Schiste" or "Petit Curoulet." It should be fantastic, whatever it is...

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Ganevat 2017 Arbois Trousseau - "Les Corvées"

This version of Trousseau from Ganevat is from grey marl/limestone soils and is raised in amphora. We're not sure why the name translates as "bucket hole" but perhaps someone can enlighten us?

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Marnes Blanches (Geraud Fromont) 2011 Cotes du Jura Vin Jaune

The Savagnin vines that make the fruit for this bottle were planted almost 70 years ago. After a direct pressing, the wine goes into neutral barrique, in a special cellar for Marnes Blanches' "sous voile" bottlings. The wine will age for for at least 6 years before release. The barrels begin at the top level of the cellar, where conditions (heat and humidity) help the flor (layer of dead yeast cells) grow quickly. As the wine ages, it is moved lower and lower into the cellar.

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Marnes Blanches (Pauline & Geraud Fromont) 2016 Cotes du Jura Chardonnay Les Molates

"Les Molates" is a bright and honeyed, topped-up Chardonnay that comes from the Fromont's younger vines (around 35-years-old) planted in red marl under limestone in Sainte-Agnès. After a direct press, the wine is allowed to ferment spontaneously, and is then aged in neutral oak for 18 months before bottling with minimal added sulfur. The robe is a golden straw color in the glass and the aromas offer a sweet vernal freshness with notes of white flower, beeswax, lemon meringue, and chamomile. On the palate, the body is leaner than past vintages with delicate citrus acidity carrying notes of ripe yellow apple over a pleasing, salty mineral finish. Amanda Bowman

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Marnes Blanches (Pauline & Geraud Froment) 2016 Cotes du Jura Savagnin Les Molates

"Les Molates" (topped-up Savagnin) comes from younger vines (around 25-years-old) planted in red marl under limestone in Sainte-Agnès. Like its Chardonnay counterpart, the wine is directly pressed and is allowed to ferment with native yeasts, then aged for 18 months in neutral oak with minimal added sulfur before bottling. Amanda Bowman

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Domaine de L'Octavin 2018 Arbois Commendatore

From Alice Bouvot's 50+ year old Trosseau vines. Estate fruit.

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Domaine de L'Octavin 2018 VDF Zerlina

Pinot Noir and Trousseau from the Curon parcel in Arbois. Estate fruit.

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Overnoy-Crinquand 2010 Arbois-Pupillin Trousseau

This was my favorite of the three new wines from Overnoy-Crinquand. It's a lithe, delicate Trousseau planted on limestone soil. I loved the nose, which offered floral, herby notes, purple flowers and fruits. It showed a hint of reduction but far less than the Ploussard; it was reduction that easily blew off. I'll be buying more of these for short term drinking. Not that it couldn't age, but it tastes great right now. -msb

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Ratte 2017 Arbois Ouille Nature

'Nature' is the name for Savagnin from days long gone. The grapes are harvested by hand from vineyards on blue and gray marl soils. Most vines are 20 years of age, but some are over 100 years old. Natural fermentation and bottled unfiltered.  The nose is salty and fresh, with green herbs and lemon. The palate has clean white pepper,  apple, and lemon zest. David Hatzopoulos

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Tissot 2018 Arbois Chardonnay "Les Graviers"

Sourced from Chardonnay vine planted in limestone-rich soils. Fermentation occurs with native yeasts and aging is in large, neutral oak barrels. Perhaps the most "Burgundian" in style of Stephane's Chardonnays.

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Tissot 2018 Arbois Chardonnay "Patchwork"

"Patchwork" is made from 100% Chardonnay (from clonal and massale seection vines) picked from various clay and limestone parcels in Tissot's estate. He raises this cuvée for 12 months in  both neutral and 10% new oak barrels, which are topped up to give a fresher, more Burgundian style to the Chardonnay. A truly complex wine from one of the Jura's best producers.  Allow some time for the aromas to develop - delicious from the first to last glass! Amanda Bowman

**AVAILABLE OCTOBER 29th**

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Tissot 2018 Arbois Chardonnay Rose Massale

Selection massale of Chardonnay Rose, from La Mailloche," a rare mutation of the grape, ripe and beautifully complex.

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Tissot 2018 Cotes du Jura Chardonnay Sursis

The vines for the Sursis are found in Chateau Chalon. Tissot purchased this parcel in 2007. "Sursis" means "on parole," and Tissot will keep producing this wine as long as the vines give him grapes. Lias type clay. A shorter elevage than other whites (only 12 months).

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Val de Sorne (Jean-François Ryon) 2018 Côtes du Jura Chardonnay

The 2018 harvest, a difficult one in the Jura, left Jean-François Ryon with 15% less production than the previous vintage. What he did produce, however, has remained a prime example of what thoughtful, low intervention processes can achieve. These grapes come from Ryon’s blue marl soils and are fermented and aged in steel. The result is a refreshing Chardonnay, with aromatics of dried lemon, apricot, and mineral water. The palate is dynamic, delivering flavors of stone fruit, apple, a hint of spicy mint. Another awesome bottle we’re happy to share from Ryon. David Hatzopoulos

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Cazin, Francois 2002 Cour-Cheverny Cuvée Renaissance

This is a truly fantastic vintage for Cazin's off-dry Romorantin. In '02, there is some botrytis but no malolactic fermentation, which means that the wine is rich, aromatically very complex, and possessed of such high acidity that the sweetness is barely noticeable. In other words, the essence of balance. A long finish that coats your mouth with mineral flavors makes this wine ultra-compelling. -msb

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Luneau-Papin 1989 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine L D'Or

(last tasted in February, 2010) A rare and beautiful wine for the ages. Luneau's 1976 is drinking beautifully now, and 1989's a better, more balanced vintage, with a core of minerals and acidity that won't go away. This is beginning to show lovely secondary aromas of earth and tea leaves, mingling with the primary citrus and white fruits. The palate is softening but is still remarkably stony and mineral with great acidity  Although this wine did not receive the extended sur-lie aging done in 1976, the acidity will hold this wine for many more years. Great fun to drink now but we would recommend holding this wine until 2018 — 2025.

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Raffault, Olga 1979 Chinon Les Picasses

Recent tastings of the Olga Raffault "les Picasses" going back to 1979 have consistently revealed light, very complex and beautiful old wines, still possessing a core of red and black fruits with lovely secondary flavors of mushroom, sous-bois, licorice,  and graphite with herbal and vegetal notes. Serve with wild mushrooms, truffle omelet, coq au vin....

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