Older Barolo from an Italian Cellar

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Another small installment of older Barolo from an Italian cellar has arrived. This one has interesting quantities of Fiorina and Borgogno. Over the last few years we've tasted a number of vintages of Fiorina - 1961, 1964, 1971 - and the wines have been very good - not at the top level, but not priced as such either, and generally very satisfying.
Ditto Borgogno. It's also important to note (as we have before), that there are two classes of older Borgogno: bottles such as those offered here, which were purchased by the former owner on release in the 1960s-1970s, and also bottles (not sold by us) which were reconditioned in the last few years at the winery. The second group - the reconditioned wines - have been handsomely re-packaged, with new labels and capsules, but sadly the wines were decanted off the sediment (and topped-up with the same vintage), resulting in perfectly clean and perfectly dull wine that's been stripped of its character. The reconditioned wines are quite widely available, but not to be confused with what we call "original release", which make really very fine drinking.

Note also the 1967 Produttori del Barbaresco Cavaliere del Tartuffo - the Knights of the Truffle is a fraternal group of winemakers that selects a couple of wines from good vintages for special recognition. Also the crazy 3-liter bottles of the very good 1995 Produttori Barbaresco... Four bottles of the great Oddero 1978 Barolo... a case of the rare Barolo from Roddolo, master of the rustic old-school and super traditional.

Prunotto 1964 Barolo

Lovely nose of caramel, wet earth, tar, roses, rainwater and old barrel spice. The color is an octave lighter than the Produttori. Elegant and juicy with vivid cherry fruit and a speherical sense on the palate. Great concentration and gritty tannins. Lovely acidity. Long finish. Totally mature wine. LF

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Cordero di Montezemolo 1982 Barolo Monfalletto

Old Cordero Barolo is great wine (recent vintages are in a fairly heavy, oaky style that we don't love so much, but the old stuff...). A couple of years ago we had several cases of this wine, which afforded multiple tasting opportunities; at this price the wine is a steal.

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Fiorina, Franco 1958 Barolo

This was a lovely haunting wine from this often overlooked négociant. It reminded me of Bartolo Mascarello as it leaned towards the feminine side of the spectrum. This wine hails from La Morra where the wines are more elegant and is north from Barolo proper. Gorgeous highly floral nose of cherry, tar and tobacco with some chestnut. The aromas were pure and caressing. This was a wine that indeed was singing to me. One of the few times that that highly overused term actually rang true. Palate had detailed pure floral-tinged cherry and strawberry fruit. The concentration was very admirable and the tannin quality was great. Pearly. A wonderful Barolo giving all its got. LF

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