Verduno – a very quiet small town with 3 very good restaurants, and 3 fine places to stay – seen from the vineyard called Rocche dell’Olmo. The vines are mostly western-facing; Rocche dell’Olmo has long been considered ideal for blending – as in the Burlotto Barolo Acclivi – to add good freshness and verve to the classic blend of vineyards. Climate change, and the accompanying increase in temperatures, means that the fruit quality here has improved a lot.

Taste v. Taste

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As a Nebbiolo fanatic (and as a wine merchant) I’m very happy about 2008 in Barolo. The wines are beginning to arrive in the US, and we’ve just returned from a fairly marathon-like visit to the region, tasting ‘08s from dawn to bed.

For the most part we visited our old favorites, who seem to make good wines no matter the vintage; the winemakers unanimously expressed a distinct preference for 2008 v. 2007 (and mystification regarding the fuss over 2007 in the first place); coming from a cooler growing season, the 2008s are more ‘classic’, with lower alcohol levels, excellent balance, with ripe tannins and firm acidity supported by rich fruit. The good 2008s are wines that will age very well indeed; we have great wine to look forward to from Cappellano, Brovia, both Mascarellos, G. Rinaldi, Oddero, Canonica, Roagna, G. Conterno, etc.

The key name included in that ‘etc’ is Burlotto, who  (to conflate some highly technical terms) hit a bomb out of the park in 2008. Burlotto also did very well in 2007, dodging the common trap of over-ripe fruit and under-ripe tannins, but 2008 is much better suited to their strength of making elegant and subtly powerful wines.

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Burlotto 2008 Barolo

A beauty — and a great intro to Burlotto — classic young Nebbiolo nose; medium-bodied, elegant and pleasing with very fine tannins — actually quite easy to drink now, although a year or five in bottle will add considerable depth and complexity. Very fine old style wine.

  • Out of Stock
  • red
  • 0 in stock
  • $44.99

Burlotto 2008 Barolo Acclivi

A blend of Burlotto’s vines in Verduno, Acclivi is another beauty, with sweeter/riper fruit than the Barolo normale; it’s also deeper, with more structured and pronounced tannins, a bit chewy but still very elegant and surprisingly easy to drink — a very, very good wine, and a very good value, showing the finesse possible in 2008.

  • Out of Stock
  • red
  • 0 in stock
  • $49.99

Burlotto 2008 Barolo Monvigliero

Very aromatic, showing cherry/red fruits, cinnamon/baking spices, truffle, stone and chalk. The fruit continues sweet on the palate, balanced by very fresh acidity, rich savory and herbal notes, and fine ripe tannin, carrying on to a very long finish. The wine is lovely and light in the mouth – kind of amazing considering the very old-school production, with whole clusters crushed by foot in open wood fermenters, and up to 60 days of fermentation and maceration, all of which still results in remarkable elegance and finesse – a powerful wine with a truly delicate presence. Burlotto Monvigliero is surely one of the great wines of Barolo.

NB: also available in the handy 3-liter size!

  • Out of Stock
  • red
  • 0 in stock
  • $54.99

Burlotto 2008 Barolo Cannubi

Showing firm minerality and deeper tannin, Cannubi is the most structured of the Burlotto crus (despite a much shorter maceration - at about 20-25 days - than Monvigliero). Presently a bit closed, but clearly a very fine wine — vibrant and energetic, and already showing more complexity and finesse than the 2007.

  • Out of Stock
  • red
  • 0 in stock
  • $61.99

Burlotto 2011 Rosato "Elatis"

Here's an example of professional and technical tasting-note-taking from a visit to Burlotto in May: "Really Nice!".

Actually this wine offers more in addition to being really nice: aromas of raspberry, white pepper and stone (55% Nebbiolo, 10% Barbera, and 35% Pelaverga — the source of the white pepper and herbal notes); it's fresh and bright with bright acidity — like ripe pink grapefruit; light-medium bodied — a rose for fish and picnics. Really nice indeed!

 

 

  • Out of Stock
  • rosé
  • 0 in stock
  • $16.99