Eric Texier 2010 Domaine Pergaud Brézème Vieilles Serine! Dinner with Eric and Steve Edmunds, Monday, March 18th! (4 Seats Available)

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Eric Texier makes some of our favorite Rhône wines, working with growers who have great vineyards and old vines, vinified and aged in his magnificent cold cellar in Charnay. His 2010 reds have been superb, including a wonderful Saint-Joseph, a sensational old-fashioned Cote-Rotie, and two great wines from Chateauneuf-du-Pape. From Eric's own vineyards in Brezeme, and last to arrive, is the 2010 Domaine Pergault Brézème Vieille Serine from a tiny parcel of seventy year-old vines of the small-berried "Serine" variety of Syrah. The term "Serine" seems to apply to original versions of Syrah, a cross between Mondeuse Blanc and Dureza, having smaller bunches and lower yields than "modern" Syrah. Mostly occuring in Cote-Rotie, where there is now a conservatory of Vieille Serine, Serine has also survived in Brezeme and in St.-Julien en St.-Alban where Eric makes another great wine from old massale-selection vines.

Eric's vinifications are classic and natural, with no attept to over-extract or over-oak the wines. Here are Eric's comments: "For the 2010 Pergault nothing special : 100% whole cluster, native yeasts and bacterias, no sulphur winemaking and aging. 20ppm total SO2 including 10 added at the bottling. No filtration, no fining. 2010 is a classic vintage and among my favourite for Brézème. I think this wine will age 15-20 years. Balance is amazing, I think. I kept 48 mags..." As much as we admire his work in the cellar, Eric is also doing some of the finest vineyard work anywhere, using biodynamic methods, minimal plowing and only the most benign treatments against rot and mildew in order to preserve the life of the soil - the flora and fauna that transform mineral into nutrients and micro-nutrients used by the vine.

Most importantly Eric's wines are simply delicious and his 2010 Vieille Serines will provide great enjoyment for many years to come. Please be aware that quantities are somewhat limited. (We apologize in advance for the small number of seats available for the March 18th dinner.)

At Edmunds St. John "it is our goal to produce wines of the highest level of quality, integrity, and authenticity, the hallmarks of which are balance, nuance, and elegance, wines that express their origins in place and time, wines through which "the earth speaks" in a clear and strong voice". Steve Edmunds has been helping the earth speak using Rhône varietals, and Gamay, since 1985. One of the first California winemakers to effectively match soil and variety, his wines are not a copy of Eurpean styles, but offer uniquely American examples of subtle terroir-based wines. We are honored to have Steve's wines at Chambers Street and hope you will try some of his new arrivals from the 2011 and 2012 vintages.

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Texier 2010 Brezeme Domaine Pergaud Vieille Serine

Black/red color, aromas of black cherry, blackberry, violets, crushed stone, smoke and musk. Really quite elegant and intriguing. The palate is tight and mineral, dense but not at all heavy, with a great finish of chalky black fruits and slightly bitter acids. My guess is that this will need about 5 years to really open and should drink beautifully until at least 2030, when it will be an interesting comparison to the Gonon 2010 Saint-Joseph. Highly recommended!

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Texier 2010 Cotes-du-Rhône St. Julien St. Alban Serine

In Saint-Julien-en-Saint-Alban, a village on the opposite side of the Rhône from Brézème in the Ardeche, Eric found vineyards in massale selection, never treated with chemicals, including a tiny plot of old vine Serine on micaschist and marne soils. We tasted the 2010 last winter before bottling — Very pretty, quite complex red fruit, citrus and floral aromas, black fruits on the palate, dark and deep with terrific length. Great balance and acidity, light on it's feet, this will age well. Lovely! ("No sulphur needed. Therefore no sulphur added. But THIS IS NOT A NO SULFUR WINE BY DESIGN, for Bacchus sake!!!!!!!!!!!!!No carbonic @#$%, no reductive ageing, no extended lees contact no addition of CO2... This is a traditional whole cluster syrah from decomposed granite in the Northern Rhône, bottled without sulphur. Period." — Eric)

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Texier 2010 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes

Our friend Eric Texier continues to produce some of the finest old-school Rhône wines being made today. Eric made superb wines in 2010 and this great Chateauneuf-du-Pape shows that Grenache can be as elegant as Syrah in this lovely vintage. "2010 is a classic vintage without over-ripeness," says Eric. "Harvested the 22nd and 23rd of September on La Crau as usual. 95% Grenache at least, the rest is Mourvedre picked early to add acidity. The vines are tended by Jean Riché with traditional plowing. Whole cluster, 18 days of maceration, native yeast,  no bull**** (tannins, enzymes, grenadine...) 12 months in foudre in Chateauneuf, then 6 months in barrels in Charnay. Minimal SO2 at bottling, no fining, no filtration." Deep aromas of black cherry with violets, herbs of provence, roast meat, very pure and elegant. The palate is superbly balanced (13.5 degrees alcohol) with lovely black and red fruits. Lovely concentration but not at all heavy, with terrific length and cool, lifting acidity. Really a lovely Chateauneuf, best drinking perhaps 2017 to 2030.

 

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Texier 2010 Brezeme Pergaud Vieille Roussette

"Roussette" can mean Roussanne in the Northern Rhône, Altesse if you're in Bugey or even Marsanne, if you're in St. Peray. In Brézème, it's Roussanne, and Eric has made a separate cuvée from the oldest vines of Monsieur Pouchoulin, in a parcel of clay and limestone with large stones (galets roulés), bottled in January 2012 after 24 months in old barriques. It's a beautiful wine with subtle aromas of citrus peel, exotic fruit and summer hay; the palate has a slight buttery aspect but remains pure, crystalline and mineral with terrific length and good acidity. This drinks beautifully now and will be a great accompaniment for any serious seafood dish, but the length and acidity indicate great aging potential also. Highly recommended.

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Edmunds St. John 2012 El Dorado County Bone-Jolly Rosé

Steve Edmunds is one of those wise Californians who sources grapes from places they should be grown, i.e. Gamay on volcanic soils, which produces his delicious Rosé Bone Jolly. Lovely, juicy red fruits with good acidity, incredibly crisp, refreshing, and fermented with wild yeasts.  This year's vintage has a cool, blue minerality, and a long savory finish.  JR

 

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Dinner With Eric and Steve 03/18/2013 Dinner Five Points 31 Great Jones St

Monday, March 18th at 7:30, Five Points Restaurant 31 Great Jones St, between Bowery and Lafayette.

Edmunds St John 2011 Heart of Gold Vermentino/Grenache Blanc (aperitif)
(gougeres)
Texier 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc
Texier 2010 Brezeme Blanc Vieille Roussette
Fluke crudo, meyer lemon, herb oil, mache

2010 Edmunds St John Rocks Syrah Wylie Fenaughty
2010 Texier Domaine Pergault Brezeme Vieilles vignes
2010 Texier Domaine Pergault St Julien en St Alban Vieille Serine
Roasted duck breast, spaetzle, chestnuts, brussels, natural jus

2011 Edmunds St John Rocks and Gravel
2010 Texier Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes
grass fed beef short ribs, mashed potatoes, leeks & carrots

Texier 2011 Opale Viognier
TBD cheese from the Rhône

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