Wink Lorch and Stéphane Tissot.

What's New in the Jura?

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It’s a rare occurrence that we ask you, dear customer, to direct the energy of your wallet to something other than the bottles that grace our shelves. We are doing so today in the interest of friendship, scholarship, and the overall understanding and promotion of the wines of the Jura. I had the great privilege to meet the lovely Wink Lorch a little over a year ago. She came to visit Chambers Street Wines to examine our wares, particularly our selections from the Jura, the small, eastern French wine region tucked away between Alsace to the north, Burgundy to the west, Savoie to the south, and the Swiss border to the east. Wink is a British travel writer who divides her time between London and the Savoie. She has written for various British publications including Jancis Robinson; she’s also an established wine educator and keeper of an excellent wine and travel blog called Wink's Wine and Travel World. Wink is also, without doubt, the most knowledgeable person I’ve ever met about the terroirs and producers of the Jura and Savoie. Wink is in the process of doing for the Jura essentially what Peter Liem has done for Champagne. She’s writing a comprehensive book on the region's wines, which she plans to self-publish, and has begun a Kickstarter crowd-funding campaign to help with its publication. We strongly encourage every Jura wine lover amongst you to pledge to Wink’s campaign as well as to share her project with others who may not be on our Chambers Street Wines mailing list.

In case you’re curious about what we’ve brought in from the Jura over the past few weeks, here’s a list of new arrivals including new wines from Tissot and Chais du Vieux Bourg. We also welcome two brand new producers: Raphael Monnier and Peggy Borunfosse. Don’t hesitate to reach out via the web, phone, or email if anything strikes your fancy. Salut! -Sophie

Tissot, Stephane NV Crémant du Jura Indigène

This is a vinous Crémant du Jura that shows a touch of the sweetness of the vin de paille used for the second fermentation. The wine offers notes of apple and fresh grass on the nose along with the honeyed, herbal tea-like quality of Macvin du Jura. Give the wine some time open as it can be a touch reductive at first. Made from a blend of 55% Chardonnay, 35% Pinot Noir, and the rest Trousseau and Poulsard. More serious than the average Crémant, this wine will open up over the course of a meal and will complement roast chicken and richer fish dishes. Take note of the finish, which is long, nuanced, and satisfying. –Sophie Barrett

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  • white sparkling
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  • $27.99

Tissot 2011 Arbois Trousseau Singulier

This is a ripe and fruit-forward vintage for Tissot's Trousseau Singulier. In the hands of lesser winemakers, we might object such oppulence in a red wine from the Jura, but Tissot masterfully balances all the sweet cranberry and dark cherry fruit on the nose and palate with sumac and herbal notes, high-toned, Burgundian earthiness, lashings of acidity, and fine but firm tannins. All too quaffable in spite of its intensity, this is a fabulous Jurassic choice for lovers of Burgundy. It's a little early to start making recommendations for Thanksgiving, but this bottle should certainly have a place at your table. -msb

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Tissot 2010 Arbois Chardonnay La Mailloche

Is it wrong to say that a wine smells like a sea salted caramel apple? The more wine from the Jura I drink, the more I respect Stéphane Tissot. His wines are clean, powerful, terroir-driven, and beautiful.This is a dense and sappy topped up Jura Chardonnay (a la Fan-fan Ganevat) that is cashew-y with ripe, sweet orchard fruit, rocks, and acid, all in droves. The nose offers sweet, creamy lemon curd and the palate is Burgundian in the sense that it offers rich, unctuous flavors that are nevertheless well balanced, spreading across the palate to the finish. Stéphane is truly a masterful vigneron. -msb

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  • white
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  • $39.99

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Ratapoil (Raphael Monnier) 2011 Arbois Ploussard Par La

This Ploussard from Raphael Monnier, school teacher/vigneron in the Arbois comes from the excellent "Corvées" vineyard. It's an exuberant, juicy, naturally made Ploussard in the image of Ganevat, Overnoy, etc... showing tangy orange and red fruits on the nose and palate: blood orange, cranberry, sour cherry. Light bodied and low in tannins, the wine may be very slightly bubbly and a bit reduced upon first opening so decant for best results ... Delicious and a welcome addition to our shelves! -msb

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Ratapoil (Raphael Monnier) 2010 Arbois Chardonnay

This is an ouillé style Chardonnay that may remind the drinker of some of Stéphane Tissot's efforts. As is the case with most topped up Jura whites, there is an oxidative note that rounds out the sharp edges of the wine's high acidity and lends it a nutty dimension. With aromas and flavors of green apple, apple skin, quince, and almond, the wine is lightly honeyed with very pretty lifted aromas and the unmistakable je ne sais quoi of the region. -msb

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  • white
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Marnes Blanches (Geraud Fromont) 2011 Cotes du Jura Poulsard

This is our first experience with the wines of Geraud Fromont of Domaines des Marnes Blanches, an estate south of the Arbois by about 15 kilometers. We like what we have tasted so far. This wine is quintessentially Poulsard with zippy, sour cherry fruit on the nose. Pale and pure in the glass, the blood oranges and slightly bitter herbs come through on the nose and palate after an hour open. The wine is quite high-toned and high in acidity with a hint of quinine emerging with air. -msb

 

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Tournelle 2010 Chardonnay Terre de Gryphees

This is a beautiful, pure, and light-handed Jura Chardonnay from Pascal and Evelyne Clairet. The vines are grown on gray marl and harvested at low yields. Aging takes place in old barrels with some sur lie aging to add depth and texture to the wine. The barrels are topped up, meaning that there's no voile character here though there are some faint flavors of oxidation coming from the terroir. An relatively crisp and high acid Chardonnay (for Jura, where the white wines lean toward a richer, rounder profile), as with Tournelle's other offerings from 2010, the wine shows remarkable mineral depth on the finish. The nose and palate are stony showing notes of white and yellow pit fruit. A gorgeous effort. -msb  

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  • white
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Tournelle 2010 Arbois Trousseau des Corvees

I perpetually have the following experience with wines from Pascal and Evelyn Clairet: I open and taste the wine. I am underwhelmed, an hour goes by and the wine absolutely sings. It's a known fact that red wines from the Jura are prone to reduction and benefit from decanting, none more than the wines of Domaine de la Tournelle. I promise you, however, that if you give this wine and hour, it will blossom into one of the most delicious Trousseaus you've ever tasted. On the nose, the wine shows black fruits, dark plums, blackberries, fruit seeds, and an herbal note. The palate fleshes out to reveal forward, sweet, tangy fruits. Berry flavors persevere to the finish, which is long and lipsmacking... Jura lovers: please do yourself a favor and try the bottle. -msb 

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Tournelle 2006 Arbois Ploussard de Monteiller

Those of you who fell in love with the '04 Ploussard de Monteiller will be delighted with this new vintage of the wine. Those who have no experience with the Domaine will love this wine. It's drinking so well right now. Super pale in the glass, the wine is beginning to show evolution on the nose with notes of leather, dried leaves, and flower petals. The palate is soft but structured with an earthy, mushtoomy hint and the nervy, piquant quality that gives these cool climate wines their charm. Decant, chill, and enjoy! -msb

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  • red
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Buronfosse, Peggy and Jean-Pascal 2010 Cotes du Jura Chardonnay Ammonites

This wine hails from the southern part of the Jura, the same area where Fan-fan Ganevat and Julien Labet make wine. There is copious marl in the soil in the southern Jura; the climate is warmer, and more Chardonnay is grown to the Savagnin of the northern villages of Arbois, Pupillin, etc... Chardonnay "Ammonite" features old vines planted on blue marl soil. The wine spends 18 months in old barrels and is densely packed, honeyed, apple-y, and flavorful with just a hint if pleasing oxidation. Peggy Buronfosse is a new comer on the scene and we've been blown away by what we've tasted from her so far... -msb

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  • white
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  • $23.99