Colin-Morey 2011

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There are a certain number of Burgundy wine producers whose wine I buy (or want to buy) every year - no matter what.  I am not going to list them - you know who they are, they are the people who make grown up versions of the kinds of things that you want Santa to leave for you beneath the tree.  But I will tell you one of those names:  Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey.

In a very short time Pierre-Yves has climbed right up to the top of the heap of the very best of the Cote D'Or, and his wines have become very sought after.  Pierre-Yves takes great care to produce wines that can age;  the grapes are pressed in whole bunches in a pneumatic press over a three-hour period to extract a maximum of phenolic material, which helps protect the wine from premature oxidation. He is using a larger barrel:  350 liters instead of the standard size of 228 liters, so the wine has less contact with the wood.  On these particular wines, the maximum amount of new wood used is 30%.   The wines are all barrel-fermented using the indigenous yeasts. To further address his concerns about the premature oxidation of white Burgundies he is using a larger diameter cork, and instead of capsules, a new kind of pliable wax that stays malleable, and which further protects the wine inside.

2011 white Burgundies are excellent wines with beautiful balance, great for mid-term drinking.  The alcohol levels are moderate - at Colin-Morey in the 11.5 to 12.5 range.   They are not wound up as tight as the 2010's, and they are not as round as the 2009's.  One producer told me he thought his 2011's combined the best aspects of the 2009's and 2010's.  Pierre-Yves describes his as a hypothetical blend of 2001 and 2002.  That said, these are classic white Burgundies that will be very enjoyable from the start.  They will improve with age but it may be hard not to drink them young. 

Some people think that White Burgundies are no longer wines to cellar.  I disagree - and a sommelier friend from a top NY restaurant says he has not seen any problems with recent white Burgundy vintages.  Life is too short to waste your time debating trainspotter observations in chatrooms.  Live the dream!  We are only here for a short while. So go to the gym but have a dessert if you want it.  Cellar white Burgundy!  Enjoy yourself.  Do not defer yourself the pleasure that you may never get to enjoy.  JBT

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Colin-Morey, Pierre-Yves 2011 Santenay (rouge) Ceps Centenaires

This is Colin-Morey's only red wine. Ceps Centenaires translates to "hundred year vine stocks".  This .03 hectare parcel is owned by Pierre-Yves; it is located in the lieu-dit Les Champs Claude, which is below the Santenay 1er Cru Clos de Tavannes. About 2 barrels of this wine is produced.

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  • red
  • 0 in stock
  • $44.99

Colin-Morey, Pierre-Yves 2011 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru

Pierre Yves sources his Corton Charlemagne from Pernand and Aloxe. This is an extremely mineral driven wine.  It is intense and powerful and can age for many years and will become fuller and richer and heavier in body as it ages.  This really needs several years of aging just to start to come together.  This is a wine that will benefit from extended cellaring, it is built for a very, very long life. 

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  • white
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  • $199.99

Colin-Morey, Pierre-Yves 2011 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Ancegnieres

We opened a bottle of this right away when we received our allocation of Chassagnes, Pulignys, and Meursaults from Pierre Yves Colin Morey, and once again the Ancegnieres impressed us all. Full flavored, very strong — the almost cheese-like aromas that I associate with Chassagne Montrachet, something unique to Chassagne. Beautiful balance, great fruit and great length — a really fantastic bottle of White Burgundy from the great 2011 vintage.  These vines are 80+ years old and came from the family domaine.  This vineyard is a Chassagne Montrachet AC just below Batard Montrachet, a village level vineyard that abuts a Grand Cru.  Year after year this is a favorite wine from Colin Morey. JBT

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  • white
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  • $62.99

Colin-Morey, Pierre-Yves 2011 Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Baudines

Pierre Yves' section of the 1er Cru Baudines vineyard was planted almost 50 years ago.  This vintage produced a very minerally and intense wine with citrusy aromas.  It is showing a lean, taut structure that will put on weight as it ages.  This is a precise and detailed wine that will benefit from extended cellaring.  You could buy a case and drink a bottle on your birthday for the next twelve years. JBT

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  • white
  • 0 in stock
  • $89.99

Colin-Morey, Pierre-Yves 2011 Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Champs Gains

Les Champs Gains is a warm site right in the center of the slope, just below Cailleret, just above village level Les Masures.  Les Champs Gains produces classic full bodied and rich wines. This wine is pretty closed up at the moment but if you decant it at lunch it will be good to drink at dinnertime.  It is powerful and rich with good mouthweight and has a long, citrusy and dry finish. It could age for many, mnay years. JBT

 

 

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  • white
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  • $89.99

Colin-Morey, Pierre-Yves 2011 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chenevottes

This is a wine that really says Chassagne Montrachet to me.  It has the aroma of the soil of Chassagne Montrachet that I remember from when I was first introduced to good white Burgundy, I had never encountered a wine anything like that.  The flavor when you drank it was so different from the aroma, it was confounding.  This has a lot of weight and a persistent finish and is really very flavorful and intense.  It is not a shy bottle of wine.  This is a wine that will blossom with extended cellaring. JBT

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  • white
  • 0 in stock
  • $89.99

Colin-Morey, Pierre-Yves 2011 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Embrazees

The Embrazees vineyard is located just below Les Baudines and borders Santenay. Wines from Les Embrazees are fuller and fatter than those of Les Baudines which is cooler and more exposed to the wind. Embrazees has reddish soil from the clay and is full of small stones from the limestone and these qualities really come out in the wine. This wine illustrates the very meaning of terroir in Burgundy; you could use it as a textbook example of classic Chassagne terroir. It is rich, full-bodied, and full-flavored with a spine of acidity that comes out on the finish.  This is another lovely 2011 that is open now and will be good to drink while it puts on more weight with age.

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  • white
  • 0 in stock
  • $94.99

Colin-Morey, Pierre-Yves 2011 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeots

The Morgeot terroir is named after the hamlet which is next to Chassagne-Montrachet to the south. Half of the vines in "Les Fairendes" were planted in 1964 and the remainder in 1974. This parcel has deeper soil where rocks break the surface. Up the slope, the stony red soil is shallow, but gets deeper down the slope where the soil is white, heavy, compacted and clayey.  Morgeot is very full and rich and powerful and has the aromas of classic Chassagne Montrachet.  This wine will get bigger and richer and fuller the longer it ages. JBT

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  • white
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  • $89.99

Colin-Morey, Pierre-Yves 2011 Puligny-Montrachet Le Trezin

The "le Trezin" vineyard is the only village-level vineyard on the hill of Montrachet. It is a very cool site high up on top of the slope.  Puligny wines are very special in 2011 and this wine is no exception. The balance between the forward fruit and the acidity creates a dynamic tension — after the intial blast of fruit this thread of acidity comes out — a hallmark of the 2011 vintage. It is this beautiful acidity that introduces the very long finish. This wine is very forward; expressive with bright fruit, good mouthweight and is already very complex. It is chiseled, precise, elegant and racy.   Very "Puligny". This will drink well young and will put on weight and become more elegant as it ages.  This wine is a great value from Puligny Montrachet and there is not that much Puligny Montrachet produced in an abundant year, let alone a lean one.  Considering how little wine was produced in 2010 and 2012 it would be prudent to stock up on this wine. JBT

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  • white
  • 0 in stock
  • $64.99

Colin-Morey, Pierre-Yves 2011 Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Champs Gains

Puligny Montrachet is a small appellation, Meursault is nearly twice the size and Chassagne Montrachet is about one third larger.  There is not very much Puligny Montrachet produced in any vintage. The Puligny 1er Cru Champ Gains vineyard is at the top of the hill of Puligny Montrachet above 1er Cru Folatieres. When the weather is extreme, this vineyard gets punished. These vines got baked in 2003 and it took some time for the vineyard to recover.  In 2012 they had a very poor flowering, then 3 different hailstorms, then oidium and mildew. Not very many grapes were harvested in 2012 but in 2011 the weather was kind to Puligny Montrachet and this year Les Champs Gains is stunning.

This wine is fuller and richer, has more acidity and is wound up tighter than the more accessible Puligny Montrachet Le Trezin.  It is intense and complex, it has lots of spice and citrus, a touch of lanolin and just enough fantastic toasty oak that is a hallmark of Pierre Yves Colin Morey.  He uses 350 liter barrels, larger than the standard 228 liter barrel so there is a lower wine to oak ratio and a more subtle oak flavors. You could buy some of the village level Le Trezin to drink while waiting for this outstanding example of fine white Burgundy to come around. JBT

 

 

 

 

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  • white
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  • $114.99

Colin-Morey, Pierre-Yves 2011 Meursault Les Narvaux

The Narvaux vineyard is located above Genevrieres and Porusots; it is a very rocky hillside vineyard, and some sections of it seem to have been blasted from the bare rock. This is another great and accessible village level wine from PYCM, with very intense fruit aromas, good mouthweight and an intense finish — a fantastic bottle. There are many great producers of Narvaux, notably Domaine D'Avenay and Jean Marc Roulot.  Their Meursault Narvaux cost considerably more than that of Pierre Yves Colin Morey. JBT

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  • white
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  • $79.99

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  • white
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  • $114.99

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  • white
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  • $129.99