Private Cellar Re-Cap

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This cellar makes us think of a grab-bag at a party, except that here there are no booby prizes - just lots of very keenly priced and very interesting wines. A typical sales strategy for such a group of wines would be to list some highlights (“blah blah Mascarello! Joguet! Schafer-Frolich! Blah blah…”) but we’ll resist more of that in favor of letting you browse. All wines were purchased on release and were stored with temperature-control.

 

**Quantities are limited; first-come, first-served. To view live inventory, please visit the article on our website.

Huet 2005 Vouvray Cuvée Constance 500ml

Forward and open which is unusual for Constance. Beautifully knit palate and very long with exceptional purity and at least 75 years ahead of it. DL

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Foradori 2010 Vignetti delle Dolomiti Fontanasanta, Nosiola

*This wine is in the warehouse and will not be available for pick-up or delivery until after Labor Day.* This full-bodied white wine based on Nosiola — a native specialty of Trentino — shows honey, orange, peach, white and yellow fruits on the nose. The grapes are grown on poor, calcareous soil, which may account for its length and minerality. There's no shortage of lemon-y acidity on the palate. The bottle may conjure to mind a seafood risotto...

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Foradori 2010 Vigneti delle Dolomiti Toreldego Morei

The more structured of the two Foradori Anfora reds, Sgarzon hails from a sandy soiled, pebbly vineyard. The wine rests on the skins in 600 liter, clay Anfora for eight months, after which it spends three months in barrel. We don't actually know from experience how these wines will age because this is only the second year Elisabetta has made wine in Anfora, but we think — based on the tannic structure and intense, brooding black fruit character of the wine — that they will be truly magnificent after some years in the cellar.

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Foradori 2010 Vigneti delle Dolomiti Teroldego Sgarzon

The fresher and lighter of the two Foradori single vineyard Teroldegos, Sgarzon sees the same type of maturation as Morei, eight months in anfora followed by three months in barrel. The wine is dark fruited and high toned with a unique and very present tannic quality that makes it a great partner for richer meat dishes.

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Conterno, Giacomo 2003 Barolo Cascina Francia

There's no '03 Monfortino, so all of the fruit went to the Cascina Francia — and it's a wine that transcends the vintage. When you have a wine that will age for 20+ years, who needs Monfortino? The wine is rich, dark, concentrated, but shows none of the aggressive tannin and tomato-y fruit that's so common in 2003. I think it's a classic in the making — but it needs a lot of time in your cellar. JW

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Rodriguez, Luis 2008 Ribeiro A Torna Dos Pasas Tinto

This old-vine cuvée of Caiño, Brancellao, and Ferrol comes from beautiful steeply terraced vineyards (see the Jose Pastor Selections website) that are a mixture of sand and granite soils. The result is a gorgeous mix of broad dark fruits, country aromas of wild flowers and herbs, complemented by tangy minerals. There is good structure here with impeccably balanced acidity and fine yet layered tannins making this, I think, age-worthy at least in the near to middle term and one of the great expressions of terruño that Spain (specifically Galicia) has to offer today. cb

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Bertrand Gautherot-Vouette et Sorbée NV Champagne NV Blanc d'Argile

All Kimmeridgian soil is chalk, but not all chalk is Kimmeridgian. This special geological arc gives us Chablis and touches into the southern part of Champagne, which is mostly planted to Pinot Noir. However, lucky for us geeks, Vouette et Sorbee makes one of the few 100% Chardonnay Champagnes grown on Kimmeridgian soils. Eh? Chablis with bubbles? This wine is for all those eager to explore the meaning of "terroir." Biodynamic farming, primary fermentation with entirely indigenous yeast, no fining, no filtration, minimal sulfur, no dosage, all riddling and disgorging is done by hand.

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Schmitt-Wagner, Carl 2003 Mosel Longuicher Maximiner Herrenberg Riesling Spätlese

So sure, maybe it's not the most interesting of recent Mosel vintages, but this wine is still fairly well-balanced and tasty. Good richness, just the right amount of sweetness and starting to show some savory secondary characteristics. Plus, your vertical of great back-vintage Schmitt-Wagners won't be complete without it! -jfr

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Von Othegraven 2007 Saar Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Spätlese Erste Lage

The verve of racey Saar acidity balancing the ripe, ripe fruit of the 2007 vintage make this a splendidly balanced Spatlese packed with the generous fruit we've come to love in von Othegraven's wines. All spontaneous yeast fermentation — their offerings have some of the most compelling aromatics of any Mosel wine.

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Von Othegraven 2008 Saar Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Spätlese Erste Lage

Andreas Barth, cellarmaster and winemaker at Von Othegraven, specializes in lean, stylish, classic expressions of off-dry wines from the Saar. The Bockstein is a well-regarded vineyard in the central Saar area, facing southwest and made up of weathered slate, loam and quartzite. We love 2008s and are happy to snatch these up and offer them from private collections whenever we get the chance. -jfr

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Adam, A.J. 2008 Mosel Riesling Dhroner Hofberg Auslese 375ml

Yes, we really do have this one remaining half-bottle of Andreas Adam's superb 2008 Hofberg Auslese. This is intended to be "dessert wine"-style auslese, with a large amount of residual sugar and high-flying levels of acid to balance it out. Buy this before I do. -jfr

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Adam, A.J. 2009 Mosel Riesling Dhroner Hofberg Spätlese

Hand-harvesting, organic fertilizers, dedicated attention to vineyard-work, indigenous (ambient) yeasts, long lees-contact and no filtration. Why aren't you drinking more of Andreas Adam's stellar rieslings? He's doing everything right in the vineyard and the cellar, and we absolutely love the results. -jfr

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Geil 2009 Rheinhessen Bechtheimer Heiligkreuz Scheurebe Kabinett

Another contender for wine of the summer. At 9.5% alcohol there can't be a more perfect wine for enjoying the sunshine. Vibrant racy fruit, well integrated residual sugar, astounding focus and acidity . Herbaceous, spicy, orange peel, orange rose petals, orange sorbet. Long, precise finish. RSG

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Haart, Reinhold 2006 Mosel Wintricher Ohligsberg Riesling Aus EL

An often overlooked site but in Theo Haart's hands it often is magical. This is one of the top Auslesen of the vintage and has great clarity and expression of fruit. Amazing stuff and you cannot get in anywhere except CSW! LWF

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Kühn, Peter Jakob 2007 Rheingau Landgeflecht Riesling Trocken

Very exciting things are happening at the Kühn estate in the Rheingau and anyone interested in German or Biodynamic wine ought to be paying attention. Yes, it's becoming an old tale that everyone in Germany is focusing on dry wines to the exclusion of sweeter styles. Kühn, while excelling at both styles, produces dry wines that taste like no other Rieslings. The grapes for 'Landgeflecht' come from the Oestricher Doosberg, a clay and loam-dominated site on the Rhine that is peppered with numerous quartzite pebbles. The 2007 has aged into a fascinating wine, with striking aromas of barley, cola bean, lemon and petrol. On the palate the wine displays complexity from spontaneous yeasts, brisk lemon and lime notes and a mellow texture as a result of all the component parts settling in. Not necessarily one to age extensively, but it has developed well and is great today. -jfr

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Künstler, Franz 2007 Rheingau Stielweg "Old Vines"

Künstler's Stielweg Old Vines bottling comes from 50+ year-old parcels planted in heavy loam/clay soils in between the village and the river Main. This bottling is always dry and tends toward the full end of the spectrum. Künstler was making probably the most interesting wines in the Rheingau during this period and 2007 was a particularly strong vintage at this estate. -jfr

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Schäfer-Fröhlich 2006 Nahe Felsenberg Grosses Gewachs

Out of his four GG's in 2006 this is the most open and also has wonderful haunting elegance. It is a bit tight now but has wonderful richness allied with intense minerality and wonderfully pure citrus notes. In a drier style yet with great richness. Tim Frohlich hit it out of the park in 2006.

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Schäfer-Fröhlich 2007 Nahe Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Spätlese

Slightly reductive aromas with hints of lime and honey. Very filigreed and fragrant under all that reduction. Palate is perfectly ripe with beautiful fruit and purity with lovely wild cherries lingering on the finish. LF

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Schäfer-Fröhlich 2008 Nahe Estate Riesling Kabinett

Entirely wild yeast fermentation. The tension between fruit and acid makes for a wine that is tangibly vivacious — notes of lime and rose.

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Schäfer-Fröhlich 2009 Nahe Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Spätlese

One of the greatest wines tasted at the 2009 Wiest offering. Dead-on gorgeous iris aromatics; this wine is all wild meadow and floral with Nahe-style purple fruit on the mid-palate, balanced with lemony acidity, and a scrumptiously long finish. Very, very good. rsg

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Schäfer-Fröhlich 2009 Nahe Bockenauer Riesling Estate Kabinett

Tim Frohlich's wines have a signature uniqueness that sets them apart from all other German offerings. It's no wonder these wines have a mad following. The 2009 vintage was very good at Schafer-Frohlich — the Kabinett has a wildness to it, fleshy tropical fruit, and an exceptional finish. A kabinett that might well prove the age potential of kabinett. rsg

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Schäfer-Fröhlich 2010 Nahe Bockenauer Felseneck Grosses Gewächs

Rockstar Nahe winemaker Tim Fröhlich's signature bottling. John Gilman went bananas for it and so did we. Like citrus dipped in gold. -jfr

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Schäfer-Fröhlich 2010 Nahe Bockenauer Felseneck Spätlese

Always a reliable Spatlese, the 2010 Felseneck has some fascinating exotic aromatics to complement the classic citrus fruit notes that include both savory and red-fruited tones. Long and ripe but balanced by terrific acidity, this demonstrates everything that is wonderful about the 2010 vintage. Drinking beautifully now but will age well for many years. -jfr

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