2011 Chassagne-Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet, Meursault

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Meursault.  Puligny Montrachet.  Chassagne Montrachet.  These three villages produce some of the best Chardonnays on the Cote D'Or – at the top of the list of the finest, most age-worthy wines of France.

The 2011 white Burgundies are fantastic: there is great fruit and balance and roundness coupled with minerality and lively acidity. They are not as acidic as the 2010's and they are not as fat as the 2009's.  One Puligny producer expressed the opinion that these wines epitomized the best attributes of both vintages.  They are accessible now and are very enjoyable, and will only improve with age.  If you like great white Burgundies you should stock up on these 2011's. Along with 2010, it should be noted that 2012 was yet another small vintage in Burgundy, especially in Puligny and Chassagne - some of the Puligny vineyards at the top of the slope lost 90% of their crop in 2012. This only puts more pressure on supply and demand, and we’re lucky to have these fine 2011s to help fill the gap.

Do not hesitate to cellar these great 2011 white Burgundies.  They will reward you for years to come. JBT

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Carillon, Francois 2011 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos St. Jean

This fantastic and rare Francois Carillon Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Clos Saint Jean is stony and mineral-driven.  Very pure, fragrant and floral, with lots of dynamic tension; "nervoisite" is a word a Burgundian taster might use.  With age it will put on more weight and become fuller.   I would decant this an hour before dinner to help draw out the flavors and bouquet.

There have been Carillons producing wine in Puligny since 1520. The old sign outside of the Domaine Louis Carillon et Fils says: Carillon -1632. This bottle is labelled Carillon — 1611.  What we do know is that the brothers continued making wine under the name Domaine Louis Carillon et Fils until 2009 when Francois and Jacques Carillon split the holdings between them.  There are definite differences in style and winemaking techniques between the two brothers.

Burghound Allen Meadows writes, "François made a point of noting that his style is a distinct departure from that of the Domaine Louis Carillon because even though he practices largely the same approach to the élevage, there is much less sulfur used during the vinification. Moreover, he doesn't care for austerity and thus allows the wines to remain 1 year in barrel and then racks them into stainless for 6 to 8 months to rest on their fine lees. He further notes that his approach to the use of lees stirring is "completely unsystematic" as he may use a little or almost none."

By the way, Chambers Street Wines seems to be the only retailer in the USA for this particular wine. JBT

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  • white
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  • $103.99

Pernot 2011 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Pucelles

One of Pernot's very best wines.  Precision, minerality — great citrusy and honeyed fruit and a very long finish.  This is very open now and very fragrant but has a dynamic tension between the fruit and acidity that makes it go up and up.   It will put on weight and get richer as it ages and mellows.  A great 2011 with years of life ahead. JBT

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  • white
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  • $99.99

Pernot 2011 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos des Folatières

Pernot is the largest owner of the Folatieres vineyard, which is the largest premier cru vineyard in Puligny.  This is the first year that they have produced the "Clos des Folatieres" bottling.  Puligny wines are very special in 2011 and this wine is no exception.  Floral notes, white peaches, acacia flowers, good mouthweight, a hint of oak with lots of fruit and then this beautiful thread of acidity comes out which is a hallmark of the 2011 vintage. It is this beautiful acidity that brings in this very long finish. JBT

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  • white
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  • $69.99

Colin-Morey, Pierre-Yves 2011 Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Champs Gains

Puligny Montrachet is a small appellation, Meursault is nearly twice the size and Chassagne Montrachet is about one third larger.  There is not very much Puligny Montrachet produced in any vintage. The Puligny 1er Cru Champ Gains vineyard is at the top of the hill of Puligny Montrachet above 1er Cru Folatieres. When the weather is extreme, this vineyard gets punished. These vines got baked in 2003 and it took some time for the vineyard to recover.  In 2012 they had a very poor flowering, then 3 different hailstorms, then oidium and mildew. Not very many grapes were harvested in 2012 but in 2011 the weather was kind to Puligny Montrachet and this year Les Champs Gains is stunning.

This wine is fuller and richer, has more acidity and is wound up tighter than the more accessible Puligny Montrachet Le Trezin.  It is intense and complex, it has lots of spice and citrus, a touch of lanolin and just enough fantastic toasty oak that is a hallmark of Pierre Yves Colin Morey.  He uses 350 liter barrels, larger than the standard 228 liter barrel so there is a lower wine to oak ratio and a more subtle oak flavors. You could buy some of the village level Le Trezin to drink while waiting for this outstanding example of fine white Burgundy to come around. JBT

 

 

 

 

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  • white
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  • $114.99

Colin-Morey, Pierre-Yves 2011 Puligny-Montrachet Le Trezin

The "le Trezin" vineyard is the only village-level vineyard on the hill of Montrachet. It is a very cool site high up on top of the slope.  Puligny wines are very special in 2011 and this wine is no exception. The balance between the forward fruit and the acidity creates a dynamic tension — after the intial blast of fruit this thread of acidity comes out — a hallmark of the 2011 vintage. It is this beautiful acidity that introduces the very long finish. This wine is very forward; expressive with bright fruit, good mouthweight and is already very complex. It is chiseled, precise, elegant and racy.   Very "Puligny". This will drink well young and will put on weight and become more elegant as it ages.  This wine is a great value from Puligny Montrachet and there is not that much Puligny Montrachet produced in an abundant year, let alone a lean one.  Considering how little wine was produced in 2010 and 2012 it would be prudent to stock up on this wine. JBT

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  • white
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  • $64.99

Colin-Morey, Pierre-Yves 2011 Meursault Les Narvaux

The Narvaux vineyard is located above Genevrieres and Porusots; it is a very rocky hillside vineyard, and some sections of it seem to have been blasted from the bare rock. This is another great and accessible village level wine from PYCM, with very intense fruit aromas, good mouthweight and an intense finish — a fantastic bottle. There are many great producers of Narvaux, notably Domaine D'Avenay and Jean Marc Roulot.  Their Meursault Narvaux cost considerably more than that of Pierre Yves Colin Morey. JBT

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  • white
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  • $79.99

Colin-Morey, Pierre-Yves 2011 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Ancegnieres

We opened a bottle of this right away when we received our allocation of Chassagnes, Pulignys, and Meursaults from Pierre Yves Colin Morey, and once again the Ancegnieres impressed us all. Full flavored, very strong — the almost cheese-like aromas that I associate with Chassagne Montrachet, something unique to Chassagne. Beautiful balance, great fruit and great length — a really fantastic bottle of White Burgundy from the great 2011 vintage.  These vines are 80+ years old and came from the family domaine.  This vineyard is a Chassagne Montrachet AC just below Batard Montrachet, a village level vineyard that abuts a Grand Cru.  Year after year this is a favorite wine from Colin Morey. JBT

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  • white
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  • $62.99

Colin-Morey, Pierre-Yves 2011 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeots

The Morgeot terroir is named after the hamlet which is next to Chassagne-Montrachet to the south. Half of the vines in "Les Fairendes" were planted in 1964 and the remainder in 1974. This parcel has deeper soil where rocks break the surface. Up the slope, the stony red soil is shallow, but gets deeper down the slope where the soil is white, heavy, compacted and clayey.  Morgeot is very full and rich and powerful and has the aromas of classic Chassagne Montrachet.  This wine will get bigger and richer and fuller the longer it ages. JBT

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  • white
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  • $89.99

Colin-Morey, Pierre-Yves 2011 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Embrazees

The Embrazees vineyard is located just below Les Baudines and borders Santenay. Wines from Les Embrazees are fuller and fatter than those of Les Baudines which is cooler and more exposed to the wind. Embrazees has reddish soil from the clay and is full of small stones from the limestone and these qualities really come out in the wine. This wine illustrates the very meaning of terroir in Burgundy; you could use it as a textbook example of classic Chassagne terroir. It is rich, full-bodied, and full-flavored with a spine of acidity that comes out on the finish.  This is another lovely 2011 that is open now and will be good to drink while it puts on more weight with age.

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  • white
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  • $94.99

Colin-Morey, Pierre-Yves 2011 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chenevottes

This is a wine that really says Chassagne Montrachet to me.  It has the aroma of the soil of Chassagne Montrachet that I remember from when I was first introduced to good white Burgundy, I had never encountered a wine anything like that.  The flavor when you drank it was so different from the aroma, it was confounding.  This has a lot of weight and a persistent finish and is really very flavorful and intense.  It is not a shy bottle of wine.  This is a wine that will blossom with extended cellaring. JBT

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  • white
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  • $89.99

Colin-Morey, Pierre-Yves 2011 Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Baudines

Pierre Yves' section of the 1er Cru Baudines vineyard was planted almost 50 years ago.  This vintage produced a very minerally and intense wine with citrusy aromas.  It is showing a lean, taut structure that will put on weight as it ages.  This is a precise and detailed wine that will benefit from extended cellaring.  You could buy a case and drink a bottle on your birthday for the next twelve years. JBT

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  • white
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  • $89.99