Restocking the Jura...

Share

Oh the cosmic rhythm of the wine store. The final month of the old year depletes our stocks; the first month of the new replenishes… Quite possibly the best aspect of January is putting new wines on the shelf (let’s face it; the weather leaves something to be desired…). This week we’re particularly excited about a fresh batch of wines from the bucolic and verdant hills of the Jura. We were deprived of Poulsard for much of December (or, rather, we had to limit ourselves to one or two selections…), but deprivation has only made us thirstier, and we’re presently in a position to quench with new, deliciously delicate reds from Saint-Pierre and Ludwig Bindernagel of Chais du Vieux Bourg, as well as one of the freshest, zestiest sparkling wines outside of Champagne.   

As is regularly the case with new Jura Domaines, there are some gaps in our knowledge of Saint-Pierre, which we look forward to filling. (Our favorite Jura growers seem to have the habit of working in their vines rather than on their websites, for which we love them.) Fabrice Dodane has about six hectares in the Arbois and the Côte du Jura. He's organically certified, and his natural wines generally have little to no sulfur added, yet are pure and well-executed examples of the style. A few months ago, Dodane piqued our curiosity with his Petit Curoulet, a fresh and high-toned Poulsard that traverses the tightrope of fruit, acid, and minerality, and finds impeccable balance. Today we highlight Dodane’s vin de soif Pinot Noir from the “Les Gaudrettes” vineyard in the Arbois, and his rich and honeyed, topped-up Melon-Queue-Rouge. (A note to locals: our friend, Mike Foulk will be pouring these wines at Chambers Street on Friday, 1/31, between 5 and 7pm.)

We’ve now enjoyed a handful of excellent vintages from Bavarian winemaker Ludwig Bindernagel of Domaine le Chais du Vieux Bourg. In the early 2000s, Bindernagel experienced what a French speaker might call un coup de foudre (love at first sight) for this region, and has been in Poligny ever since, making wine in the Côte du Jura close to Étoile and Château-Chalon. His estate is microscopic, and the challenges of the past few vintages have caused the quantities to shrink and the prices to rise. We believe the wines are worth every penny, however, and their classic vinifications (long, slow fermentation with native yeast and aging in old barrel) make a nice contrast to the fruit-forward and juicy, natural wines of Saint-Pierre. Do not miss Ludwig’s superior Crémant; made entirely from the 2008 vintage and disgorged in 2013, this wine delivers as much crunchy acidity, creamy texture, and downright complexity as one can hope to find outside of Champagne. As we restock our racks and refrigerators after the holidays, may we suggest you do the same? Santé! Sophie  

No Longer Available

Saint Pierre 2012 Arbois Poulsard Petit Curoulet

In 2012 this wine has a touch of Pinot Noir in it! Yum. We like that it has the delicate weight of Poulsard but with slightly more body. In the spirit of the last vintage of Petit Curoulet, this wine has expressive, pure, tangy red fruit on the nose, fruit seeds, fresh herbs, and sour cherry pits. The palate is sheer and vibrant. With 2 mgs sulfur added after malolactic fermentation and none at bottling, we'd say this is a job well done! MSB

  • Out of Stock
  • red
  • 0 in stock
  • $28.99

Saint Pierre 2012 Arbois Pinot Noir Les Gaudrettes

The more we taste from Domaine Saint Pierre, the more we like. This lively, floral Pinot Noir is made totally without sulfur, using carbonic maceration, which gives it lots of aromatic lift, spice, and a delightful Chinato note. The wine's initial fruitiness is complemented by lip-smacking, lightly bitter, mineral, and fruit-pit flavors on the finish. Another great effort from this up-and-coming Domaine in the Arbois! MSB

  • Out of Stock
  • white
  • 0 in stock
  • $26.99

Saint Pierre 2011 Arbois Melon à Queue Rouge

In 2011 Fabrice Dodane of Domaine Saint Pierre took over from his estate's previous owner, whom he had worked with for nearly 20 years. He continually makes clean, precise, natural wines that are as delicious as they are accessible. Made from the obscure relative of Chardonnay called Melon-Queue-Rouge, this wine is raised ouillé (meaning "topped up" rather than aged in the traditional fashion under a veil of yeast). The wine is floral, honeyed, and quince-y with notes of tart green apple and crunchy green grape. For a white wine from the Jura, it's fairly fruit-forward and generous on the palate. This is the last vintage of this wine until 2018 (he had to replant the vines immediately after 2011) so don't miss this chance to taste something special. Tim Gagnon

  • Out of Stock
  • white
  • 0 in stock
  • $33.99

  • Organic
  • Low Sulfur

Chais du Vieux Bourg 2010 Côtes du Jura Poulsard

We were thrilled by this new release of Poulsard from Ludwig Bindernagel of Domaine le Chais du Vieux Bourg. Our shelves have been dominated of late by carbonic, natural-style Poulsard (which we love), and it's very nice to add a more classically made wine to the shelf. This wine marries deeply savory aromas of beef-broth and umami with notes of fern, moss, and flower petal. It's certainly earth and mineral driven, and benefits from the cool 2010 vintage. The palate is high acid and low alcohol (11.7%), with a burst of minerality and fine tannins on the finish. An excellent effort. MSB

  • Out of Stock
  • red
  • 0 in stock
  • $34.99

Chais du Vieux Bourg 2008 Crémant du Jura Délire des Lyres

From Bavarian winemaker, Ludwig Bindernagel comes this unique Crémant du Jura made from 100% Pinot Noir. This bubbly sees a long period of maceration on the lees and is bottled with no dosage. Dry, nutty, mushroom-y, earthy, toasty, and with laser-like acidity, this wine is like the Bouchard "Inflorescence" or the Marie-Courtin of Crémant du Jura and is well worth spending an extra dollar or two to try. Two thumbs up! MSB

  • Out of Stock
  • white sparkling
  • 0 in stock
  • no discount
  • $27.99