CSW & Louis/Dressner Selections Benefit Tasting for Partners-in-Health - Partial List!

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Please join us this Saturday to raise much-needed cash for Partners-in-Health while tasting over eighty fabulous wines imported by our friends at Louis/Dressner Selections! We're in the Granite and Rose Rooms at City Hall Restaurant this Saturday, March 22nd from 1:00 'til 5:00, $20 admission. If you can't make it this Saturday, then Make Your Own Tasting from this partial list of wines we'll be pouring on Saturday. And make a generous donation to PIH!

Partners-in-Health is an international medical organization committed to improving the health of the poor and marginalized. PIH works with local and international partners to increase life expectancies by providing people access to modern medicine, strengthening public health systems, and addressing the root social and economic causes of poor health and disease. PIH works in 12 countries around the world and is leading the fight against cholera in Haiti. To donate:

https://donate.pih.org/page/contribute/donate

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Pépière 2010 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Ch.Thébaud Clos Morines

The 2009 Château Thébaud Clos des Morines was our favorite wine of the vintage from Domaine de la Pépière and the 2010 is no less outstanding! As Rémi Branger of Pépière explained, the higher acidity in this vintage permitted a longer, three year élevage sur lie, giving the wine great density, complexity and structure. Beautiful aromas of citrus peel, apple blossom, pear and stone. The palate is dense with saline mineral, citrus, white fruits and wet stone. Really long with great acidity and depth. This is a great Muscadet— drink now with any elegant seafood dish of keep ten to twenty years and serve with lobster, monkfish and aged goat cheeses.... Fabulous—thank-you Marc and Rémi! UPDATE April 2015: The wine is absolutely sensational - given an hour to open up, vivid aromas of dried pear, thyme, lemon verbena and stone are followed by a dense, intensely stony palate with mineral, dried fruits, citrus, and earth. Fabulous length with a miraculous mineral finish. OK, I'm a little over-enthusiastic, but this wine puts $100 white Burgundies to shame....($23.39 per bottle on a case purchase!)

 

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  • Organic

Luneau-Papin 2010 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine "Goula Clos des Noelles

The Luneau-Papin "Clos des Noelles" is one of my favorite Muscadets, usually a bit rounder than the granite-soil "L D'Or" but always aromatically complex and with great intensity and length. In 2010 the wine received the Cru Communal "Goulaine" label, having spent 36 months sur-lie, and having passed the other requirements for "Cru" status.  The vines were planted in 1936 on a terroir of "micaschistes a deux micas," the grapes are hand-harvested and undergo a slow wild yeast fermentation. The aromas are subtle and complex with lemon-oil, dried mushroom, stone, anise, and white pepper. The palate is round and dense but light and ultra-dry with bitter citrus, stone, almond and floral notes. Really a brilliant young Muscadet  that should be decanted, and that will age beautifully.

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Luneau-Papin Delete 2005 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Le "L" d'Or

Another great effort from the Luneau-Papin family, and not much stock remains of this excellent vintage. Tasted in November 2015. When opened the aromas are subtle with lime-flower, lemon oil, earth, mushroom and herbal notes. With aeration the aromas gain depth and the crystalline palate shows it's density with dried fruits, mushroom, stone, anise and citrus. Fresh pear, earth and minerals linger in the long finish. This is beginning to sing at ten years of age, drink now or until 2030. Decant or open one hour before serving.

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Closel (Château des Vaults) 2012 Savennières La Jalousie

Chenin Blanc grown on schist soils on a slope above the Loire, organic farming. The 2012 Jalousie shows lovely lime-flower, citrus, white fruits and honey aromas. The palate is round with white and yellow fruits, citrus, a bit of jasmine and anise perhaps, with firm acidity and stony mineral flavors in the finish. A great pairing with full-flavored fish and chicken dishes, mild cheeses. Lovely wine!

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  • Organic
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Closel (Château des Vaults) 2007 Savennières Clos Papillon

"The Clos du Papillon is made from a vines that range from thirty-five to seventy years of age and is always the bigger and more structured bottling from Domaine du Closel. The 2007 was showing beautifully at the time I crossed paths with it in October of 2011, with just a touch of botrytis adding an additional sheen to the deep and truly beautiful nose of honey, a touch of pineapple, chalky soil tones, apples, bee pollen and orange peel. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, complex and shows off excellent mid-palate depth, with great nascent complexity, a quite powerful personality, bright acids and excellent length and grip on the very pure and racy finish. Just a lovely bottle in the making. 2013-2035." John Gilman, The View from the Cellar

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Pinon, François NV Vouvray Brut Non-Dosé (2011)

François Pinon's Vouvray Brut Non-Dosé is one of the finest non-Champagne sparkling wines you can find. Beautifully complex aromas of citrus, honey, herbs and earth, a creamy palate with great acidity and length. François' sparkling wines age beautifully and are better than many Champagnes at twice the price! DL

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Pinon, François 2005 Vouvray Cuvée Botrytis 500ml

A great version of Pinon's cuvée Botrytis, the 2005 has wonderful lemon confit, herbal and tea leaf aromas, and lovely stone and citrus flavors on the palate. Very long and quite sweet, superb! (10.7 alcohol, 152 gr/L RS)

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Knebel 2011 Mosel Von den Terrassen Riesling Trocken

The 2011 Von den Terrassen has more explosively honeyed aromatics than this multi-site blend tends to have in less exuberant vintages. That said, Knebel's signature deeply stony minerality is still present in spades on the finish, and you'd never guess that the wine was made by anyone else. The acidity is present and sufficient to keep the wine in balance, but like in the 2011 Röttgen Kabinett, the other elements of this wine are really what keep things interesting. Dry Riesling with great texture and character and is still very easy to drink and easy on the stomach. The grapes come from all of Knebel's greatest vineyards, but not from the best parcels which are saved for the single vineyard wines. -jfr

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Knebel 2011 Mosel Winninger Röttgen Riesling Kabinett

The 2011 Röttgen Kabinett is cool-toned and fresh-tasting, offering pretty fruit notes and a racy, stony finish. Where this diverges from the classic Mosel style, though, is the lower amount of noticeable acidity than one would normally expect from this region. The wine remains balanced and very attractive, though. Love Riesling and are looking for one without the razor-sharp cut that so many seem to be blessed with? Look no further than the delicious 2011 Röttgen Kabi. -jfr

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Immich-Batterieberg 2011 Mosel C.A.I. Riesling

CAI is a blend made mostly of purchased fruit. 2011 is more friendly than the screamingly intense 2010 and will pair with more varied cuisine. It is, for all intents and purposes, dry and is made in all stainless steel. Very fruity and ripe, this is one that is best enjoyed quite cool. There's serious minerality here, much darker toned than the salty 2010; Gernot is a master blender and he's put together another terrific CAI this year. The grapes come from 5 hectares spread across much of the Mosel, with sites as far apart as Enkirch and the Saar. The breakdown is an unexpected combination of divergent vineyards, both well-known and not so much. For those keeping score, (and why not?), there's 1 ha ungrafted vines from the Dhroner Hofberg, 0.5 ha Oberemmeler Altenberg, 0.5 ha Wiltinger Klosterberg, and smaller sections of the Kinheminer Rosenberg, Kröver Steffensberg, Wolfer Sonnenberg, and from Enkirch there are parcels from Steffensberg, Hattenberg, Zeppwingert, Steffensberg and the foot of the Batterieberg. -jfr

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Immich-Batterieberg 2008 Mosel Riesling Brut Zero Jour Fixe

In 2008, Gernot Kollmann had just taken over at Immich-Batterieberg (after making the wines at Knebel for a few years), and while he hadn't been involved in the growing of these estate grapes, he decided to make this stunning sparkling wine rather than sell everything off. The wine is dry, mineral, slate-y driven and quite herbaceous. It's made without any dosage and is an acid-lover's dream. It fits in perfectly on the shelf with the bracing, high-toned Champagnes we all love so much and think this is an ideal wine for lovers of both Mosel Riesling and bone-dry Champagne that are looking for a sparkling alternative. -jfr

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Busch, Clemens 2011 Mosel Vom Roten Schiefer Riesling Trocken

Vom Roten Schiefer is always one of our favorites from Busch's lineup, and the 2011 continues the streak of delicious vintages from 2007 on. It's culled from red-slate parcels, primarily in the Rothenpfad, upstream from most of their grey and blue slate sites.The aromatics are quite nice, with present but restrained hints of flowers, grains, steel and spice. There's plenty of both body and acid, and it seems as if it may be just a hair off-dry, but still perfectly balanced. Really lovely depth and clarity here. -jfr

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Koehler-Ruprecht 2008 Pfalz Kallstadter Saumagen Riesling Kabinett Trocken

This is a fun one: Library Release Kabinett Trocken from K-R, direct from the estate to our cellar and hopefully to yours. We love Kabinett Trocken from cooler vintages at K-R such as this and 2010. Actually, we love pretty much everything the estate did in 2008, a vintage characterized by bright acidity, freshness and floral tones. All old casks and old-fashioned winemaking from our favorite staunchly traditional estate in the Pfalz. A joy to drink with a little age on it as well. -jfr

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Baudry 2011 Chinon Domaine

We're getting to the end of the 2011 vintage of this great wine from Bernard and Matthieu Baudry -  all Cabernet Franc of course, a blend of 80% from a parcel in St. Louans, where the thin clay/limestone soils give earthy well-structured wines, with 20% from gravel soils near Cravant, giving supple fruit. Organic farming, wild-yeast fermentation, aging in 5 to 10 year-old wooden vats and casks. This is a softer, more easy-going version of the superb 2010, with rounder strawberry, blackberry and earth on the palate but with ample structure and acidity. Which means that this is really delicious to drink right now, served a bit cool, and should keep well for six to ten years or more. Perfect with roast chicken!

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Raffault, Olga 2012 Chinon Rosé

In a world of innocuous Rosé for mindless quaffing Raffault stands out as wine with true depth. Robust crushed berry fruit is balanced by Cabernet Franc's signature earthy spice. Vivacious, yet balanced a wine that is at home at barbecues, and hot summer nights. JR

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Raffault, Olga 2002 Chinon Les Picasses

On our first visit to Domaine Raffault, a push-pin was put on New York on the world map to show their first export to the US, Olga told a few off-color jokes and Ernest kept bringing older and older bottles from the cellar. I remember thinking how the less than great vintages showed beautifully — light, fragrant, complex, gamey, vegetal? and delicious. 2002, while a great vintage for whites, was a bit less successful for reds in the Loire. The 2002 Les Picasses seemed a bit light on release, but time has revealed a lovely Burgundian Chinon, with pretty citrus, plum and strawberry aromas, with hints of smoke, leather and wet earth. Soft and lovely on the palate with nice depth of gamey, chalky red fruits, tobacco and spice. Lovely, and it will just keep on going...

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Peillot 2013 Roussette du Bugey Montagnieu Altesse

Where, exactly, is Bugey? Even the most committed wine geeks often do not know the answer to this question. Bugey comprises hills at the very southern tip of the Jura mountain range, but is, in fact, closer to the Savoie than to the Jura in distance (and the wines are more akin to the wines of the Savoie than to those of the Jura...) Interestingly, also, the vineyards of Montagnieu overlook the Rhône Valley and there is a certain ripe, Rhône-ish aspect to this Altesse in some vintages. Franck Peillot has long been a favorite of ours, and his Altesse (known also as Roussette), is lovely in 2013. Grown on limestone soil, the wine offers pretty honey and orchard fruits on the nose: floral pear, white peach and citrus while maintaining an underlying stoniness and minerality on the palate, and the long finish is like an alpine stream. MSB

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Peillot 2013 Bugey Mondeuse

The 2013 Mondeuse from Franck Peillot is pleasantly a bit lighter than usual with lovely fresh red-currant fruit, spicy and bright. Really quite pretty and finishes with citrusy red fruits and refreshing acidity. This will be nice, served quite cool, with charcuterie, grilled chicken, and any lighter meals.

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Coudert (Clos de la Roilette) 2012 Fleurie Cuvée Tardive

From eighty year-old vines on clay and granite soil. By "Tardive," Alain Coudert implies that one should wait for this wine to mature, in this case probably about 5 to 7 years, although those unable to wait will certainly enjoy drinking it now. Deep aromas of meaty blackberry and strawberry confit, violets and mint. Intense palate of berry liqueur, plum, stone and earth with fabulous length and firm, even slightly bitter acids. Earthy fruit coats the palate in the finish — ripe but balanced at 13% alcohol. This will be a great mature wine, perhaps best between 2020 — 2025. We're opening this up for case sales, so don't delay as there is no additional inventory in France.

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Bera 2010 Barbera D'Asti Ronco Malo

Forget what you know what you might think about Barbera: that they are all simple, grapy, fruit-driven wines without any character.  Instead, consider the savory and complete Barbera Ronco Malo from the Bera’s organic farm in Asti.  We first met the Beras through their phenomenal Moscato d’Asti – a phrase we don’t say often — but now have a new tableside companion for risottos and other Piedmont specialties demanding red wine.  Native fermentation and a lack of filtration produce a wine with robust aromatics of herb and berries and a long earthy finish.  JR

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Maisons Brûlées (Michel Augé) 2012 Vin de France Poussière de Lune

A brilliant natural wine from Michel and Béatrice Augé, now retired, from old-vine Sauvignon Blanc in their amazing biodynamic vineyards near Pouillé. The Augés have always practiced some of the most beautiful farming in France, even inventing special plows that don't break the surface, to protect the life in the soil. The 2012 Poussiere de Lune is a cloudy pale bronze color, with marvelously complex aromas of ripe pear, apricot, green tea and lime-flower with hints of red fruits as well. Strong acidity on the palate with ripe yellow fruits, red berries, blood orange and mineral flavors with terrific length. This wine should be on the table of all lovers of natural wines! (Yes, it will turn a bit brown with air as there is no added SO2). Highly recommended!

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  • Organic
  • Biodynamic
  • No Sulfur

Hauvette 2012 Les Baux de Provence Petra Rosé

Dominique Hauvette makes one of the finest rosés in France at her biodynamic estate in Les Baux. Lovely aromas of red currant, peach skin, citrus, and brown spice; berry fruits, melon and herbal notes on the palate with terrific length. The 2012 is drinking beautifully now and will be perfect this summer with grilled tuna or chicken. Highly recommended. DL

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Maréchal, Catherine et Claude 2010 Auxey-Duresses

This lovely Auxey-Duresses really stood out at out tasting with Claude and Catherine Maréchal last winter. Really pretty strawberry/cherry aromatics with earth and mineral notes. The palate was quite complex and long with great balance. We're loving the 2010 vintage in Burgundy and this nice value village wine will drink well over the next 10 years.

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