Jean-Charles Maire

Jura New Arrivals: Domaine du Pont de Breux, Saint Pierre, Buronfosse and Bodines!

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We were lucky enough to meet and taste with Jean-Charles Maire at Domaine du Pont de Breux in the Spring of 2013 and finally his brilliant wines have arrived at Chambers Street! In his own words "The domaine was created in 1992, situated in the communes of Marnoz and Salins-les Bains. It consists of 4 hectares of vines and 16 hectares of fields for grazing Charolais cattle. This permits the isolation of most of the vines, avoiding the pollutions generated by "conventional" neighbors. Almost none of the vines touch parcesl treated with chemicals. The unique quality of the wines of Salins come from the soil — the "marnes" on which the vines grow are Kimmeridgian, the same as in Chablis. They bring to our wines a minerality and a beautiful finesse. On these soils we grow the Chardonnay, Savagnin and Poulsard in the lieu-dits "les Charmoz" and "Pont de Breux." Only the Trousseau grows on more classic Jura soils, one part on the scree of Mont Poupet in the lieu-dit "Les Riantes," and the other on marnes in "Le Calice et Vignole." Vinifications are done without added yeasts, without any additives, in the most natural way possible. Sulfur is used in very small doses."

 

After months of fighting with French and American authorities (the new European "vin biologique" — organic wine — is not legal in America) Jean-Charles removed the offending mentions from his beautiful woodcut labels and the wines have finally reached New York, albeit in tiny quantities. The whites are remarkably crystalline and mineral, in particular the 2004 Savagnin which spent 9 years in barrel under a "voile" that came and went and was bottled at 10.8% alc. The 2006 Vin Jaune is simply superb, and the Trousseau Vieilles Vignes is light, elegant, complex and simply delicious!

 

Most of our afternoon with Jean-Charles was spent touring the vineyards in his truck, crawling up and down the slopes of Mt. Poupet. The vineyards show the quality of his organic farming, with no deep plowing, only a minimal "griffage" to not disturb the life of the soil. This is organic viticulture at it's finest on some of the greatest terroir in the Jura. Althought the very difficult vintages of 2012 - 2014 will limit the amount of wine available from Pont de Breux (and all the best estates in the Jura), we hope you will try a few of these distinctive wines and we will do our best to keep a small quantity coming in over the next few years. NOTE: These are complex natural wines that have just arrived in the US - they need decanting 3 to 4 hours before drinking - or open the night before, recork and enjoy the next day. DL (Photos: Eben Lillie)



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Saint Pierre 2012 Arbois Pinot Noir Cuvée Saint Pierre

Fabrice Dodane farms six hectares organically just outside of Arbois, and we have loved all his wines that have come through our doors. 2012 was the first vintage of Cuvée Saint Pierre, and it really struck a chord with me. Made from 100% Pinot Noir, traditionally vinified in old, very large oak barrels, and with no SO2 added at any time -- this is Arbois at its purest. Brambly red berry fruit, candied rose petal and tangerine peel come to mind balanced by a stiff mineral backbone and a fair amount of grip. This is a very well-structured wine, with a delicate spice and more red berry fruit punctuating the finish. Fabrice's current release for this cuvée is 2014, so don't miss the opportunity to taste this before it's gone! Tim Gagnon

  • Out of Stock
  • red
  • 0 in stock
  • $31.99

  • Organic
  • No Sulfur

Buronfosse, Peggy and Jean-Pascal 2011 Côtes du Jura Chardonnay Varron

This is a beautiful Chardonnay from Peggy and Jean-Pascal Buronfosse! 65-year-old vines planted in red clay soils provide the fruit for this cuvée and the wine is made in the ouillé style. Very ripe melon and peach mingle with delicate savory aromas. Salty minerals are accompanied by a citrus zing that gives this wine fantastic structure. Tim Gagnon

  • Out of Stock
  • white
  • 0 in stock
  • $29.99

Buronfosse, Peggy and Jean-Pascal 2013 Côtes du Jura Éphémère 1.5 L

A MAGNUM of Pinot Noir and Poulsard from the Buronfosse family! They farm just 4 hectares of vines in the sleepy hamlet of La Combe below Rotalier, not far from Jean-Francois Ganevat, and have become known for their pure, clean, and compelling natural wines. Peggy and Jean-Pascal produce a miniscule amount of red wines at their domaine, so it’s always exciting when we see that it has arrived. Think lip-smacking, tart red cherries, a hint of red flowers, ample minerality, and a touch of Jurassic funk. This is a seriously gulpable and delicious wine!  Tim Gagnon

  • Out of Stock
  • red
  • 0 in stock
  • $72.99

  • Organic
  • No Sulfur

Bodines NV Arbois Crémant du Jura

Alexis and his wife, Emilie, farm less than four hectares on the outskirts of Arbois. This is the first time we have had the opportunity to work with their Crémant and we love it! Made using the Champagne Method, it is composed of Pinot Noir, Trousseau and Poulsard. Very pretty on the nose – strawberry seeds, ripe red raspberry, orange blossom and even exotic notes of cantaloupe. It has nice weight on the palate, with savory and herbal notes balancing out lush fruit and a pleasant frothiness. Definitely minerals and structure here. This would be great as a late afternoon apero and can definitely hold its own at the dinner table! Tim Gagnon

  • Out of Stock
  • rosé sparkling
  • 0 in stock
  • no discount
  • $23.99

  • Organic
  • Biodynamic
  • Low Sulfur