2010 Pépière Chateau Thébaud, 2014 Pépière Sur Lie and More Great Muscadet!

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During this year's winter trip to France we had two occasions to taste the wines of Domaine de la Pépière. Both times we were amazed by the 2010 Chateau Thébaud Clos des Morines - it has to be one of the finest Muscadets ever produced by our friend Marc Ollivier, along with his associates Remi Branger and Gwenaëlle Croix. We of course asked if more was available, and thus a small shipment has re-landed at Chambers Street of this marvelous wine. Enjoyed last week with some raw Littlenecks and roast Cod at our favorite roadhouse in Rhode Island, we can confirm that this is one marvelous Melon de Bourgogne - any lover of Muscadet should find room in their cellar, or on the table this summer, for this superb wine! Users Guide: (1) Open bottle, wait one hour, enjoy with shellfish, cod, haddock, flounder, fluke, etc; (2) Put bottles in cellar, wait 20 years, enjoy with monkfish, langoustines, lobster, chicken with morels.

In anticipation of warmer weather (we hope) we take this opportunity to offer our usual plethora of Muscadets at various stages of maturity, all of which will enliven your spring and summer meals with their crisp fruit and brisk minerality while offering superb value. (We apologize that our friend Jo Landron is not represented, due to warehouse issues and shipping delays, but expect his great wines and a dinner with Jo in early June.)

A last-minute addition to this email is the lovely 2014 Pépière Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie, just arived in New York! (Replacing the early-bottled Cuvée Précoce) At our tasting with Marc Ollivier in Angers last February, he characterized the 2014 vintage as "like 2004, with very good concentration and ripeness, with very good acidity," an excellent combination for great Muscadet. There is good availability for now, and stay tuned for the more structured and mineral second bottling arriving in mid-summer.

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Pépière 2010 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Ch.Thébaud Clos Morines

The 2009 Château Thébaud Clos des Morines was our favorite wine of the vintage from Domaine de la Pépière and the 2010 is no less outstanding! As Rémi Branger of Pépière explained, the higher acidity in this vintage permitted a longer, three year élevage sur lie, giving the wine great density, complexity and structure. Beautiful aromas of citrus peel, apple blossom, pear and stone. The palate is dense with saline mineral, citrus, white fruits and wet stone. Really long with great acidity and depth. This is a great Muscadet— drink now with any elegant seafood dish of keep ten to twenty years and serve with lobster, monkfish and aged goat cheeses.... Fabulous—thank-you Marc and Rémi! UPDATE April 2015: The wine is absolutely sensational - given an hour to open up, vivid aromas of dried pear, thyme, lemon verbena and stone are followed by a dense, intensely stony palate with mineral, dried fruits, citrus, and earth. Fabulous length with a miraculous mineral finish. OK, I'm a little over-enthusiastic, but this wine puts $100 white Burgundies to shame....($23.39 per bottle on a case purchase!)

 

  • Out of Stock
  • white
  • 0 in stock
  • $29.99

  • Organic

Pépière 2012 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Clisson

 Beginning in 2005, Marc Ollivier has produced this cuvée from a small parcel of 50 to 110 year-old vines within the Pepiere vineyard. Originally called "Granite de Clisson" after the unique bedrock in the vineyard, Marc has changed the name to "Clisson" to agree with the new INAO Cru Communal classification. The granite is covered with gravel and clay with large stones, ensuring good drainage and deep penetration by the roots into the fissures in the bedrock, bringing the mineral elements indispensable to this wine. The 2012 Clisson, kept on the lees for 24 months, is a gorgeous wine that seems perfectly balanced at 13% alcohol, with very firm acidity, intense aromatics and terrific density on the palate. The wine is a bit closed due to the recent bottling (November 2014) compared with our tasting from vat last February, but still shows sharp floral aromas with white fruits, dried herbs, lemon and stone. Dense pear, apple, citrus, stone, mushroom and anise coat the palate with high viscosity and very firm acids with fabulous length of citrus, white fruits and saline minerals. Beautiful now in its youthful intensity, best at 10 to 20 years of age - bravo, again, to Marc and Rémi!

  • Out of Stock
  • white
  • 0 in stock
  • $29.99

  • Organic

Pépière 2012 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Clisson 1.5 L

Beginning in 2005, Marc Ollivier has produced this cuvée from a small parcel of 50 to 110 year-old vines within the Pepiere vineyard. Originally called "Granite de Clisson" after the unique bedrock in the vineyard, Marc has changed the name to "Clisson" to agree with the new INAO Cru Communal classification. The granite is covered with gravel and clay with large stones, ensuring good drainage and deep penetration by the roots into the fissures in the bedrock, bringing the mineral elements indispensable to this wine. The 2012 Clisson, kept on the lees for 24 months, is a gorgeous wine that seems perfectly balanced at 13% alcohol, with very firm acidity, intense aromatics and terrific density on the palate. The wine is a bit closed due to the recent bottling (November 2014) compared with our tasting from vat last February, but still shows sharp floral aromas with white fruits, dried herbs, lemon and stone. Dense pear, apple, citrus, stone, mushroom and anise coat the palate with high viscosity and very firm acids with fabulous length of citrus, white fruits and saline minerals. Beautiful now in its youthful intensity, best at 10 to 20 years of age - bravo, again, to Marc and Rémi!

  • Out of Stock
  • white
  • 0 in stock
  • $64.99

  • Organic

Pépière 2010 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Quatre

The 2010 Cuvée Quatre is two-thirds from very old vines on granite of Chateau Thébaud and one-third from vines on the less porous granite of Clisson and was bottled at 12.5% alcohol in November of 2014 after 48 months on the lees. Tasted in February of 2014 the wine showed superb aromas of yellow and white fruits with bitter stone flavors and fabulous length. Tasted on arrival in NY, the wine shows a more secondary mid-palate with earth, mushroom, almond and dried pear with classic aromas of dried herbs, citrus peel and stone. This will age beautifully and meanwhile drink happily with full-flavored oysters, halibut and swordfish. (A year later, November 2015, the wine has tightened up a bit and is showing even better, with a density and structure for long aging. This should be very interesting in 15 years...)

  • Out of Stock
  • white
  • 0 in stock
  • $22.99

  • Organic

Pepiere 2009 Muscadet Sevre et Maine Ch.Thébaud Clos Morines 1.5 L

This is a brilliant Muscadet from a great hillside parcel of old vines belonging to Remy Branger's family. The wine spent 30 months on the lees and carries the new Cru Communal label of Chateau-Thébaud. Here we have the richness of the 2009 vintage but with lovely balance and acidity. The granite of Chateau-Thebaud is more porous and fractured than that of Clisson, allowing the roots easier access to water, giving a more balanced wine in a year of hydric stress. The wine has elegant white fruit, citrus and stone aromas with less fat and more freshness than the 2009 Clisson. At 12% alcohol, the palate is lively and very mineral with hints of citrus, pear and spice. This is delicious now but will age beautifully for 20 years and more....

  • Out of Stock
  • white
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  • $58.99

Pépière 2014 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie

(Tasted twice before bottling last winter) 2014 seems like 2004, says Marc Ollivier, with very good concentration and ripeness, and very good acidity. A very difficult Spring and Summer (with many nervous vignerons) were followed by six weeks of excellent, sunny weather beginning in mid-August. It may not be the vintage of the century, but many delicious wines were made throughout the Loire Valley, and in good quantity. Domaine de la Pépière's Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur Lie is an outstanding wine that will drink beautifully this summer. Showing a bit more fruit than usual with aromas of dried  pear, apple, citrus peel, white pepper and stone. The palate is round (for a Muscadet) but more stone than fruit, with citrus, anise and saline mineral flavors, ending with firm, refreshing acidity. Simply delicious and a sensational value with the stronger dollar!

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  • white
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  • $13.99

  • Organic

Pépière 2014 Vins de Pays du Val de Loire Rose "La Pepie"

Made from two-thirds Cot (Malbec) and one-third Cabernet Franc. The 2014 La Pépie Rosé shows the lovely, lively fruit of this vintage, with pretty red-currant and raspberry fruit on the palate with hints of citrus and rose. It's balanced, bright and refreshing at 12% alcohol. Serve very cool with just about anything this summer - simply delicious!

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  • rosé
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  • $13.99

  • Organic

Brégeon, Michel 2012 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie

The last few years have seen a transition in this great estate, from Michel Bregeon, one of the heros of Muscadet, to his capable colleague, Fred Lailler. The estate retains Michel's name and continues his work largely unchanged, but with a gradual shift to organic agriculture. Always a unique and powerful Muscadet due to the Gabbro terroir and clay topsoils and Michel's careful hand-harvesting and wild-yeast fermentations, the 2012 Muscadet Sevre et Maine Sur Lie is a great success for Fred Lailler. The aromas are complex with stone, citrus, licorice and almond. The palate has great depth and balance at 12% alcohol showing citrus confit, pear, stone and saline acids, with terrific length. Drinking beautifully now this should improve over the next few years. Of course serve with oysters, cod, flounder and fluke, but also with fuller flavored fish - monkfish, halibut, striped bass and roast chicken as well. Let's hope that other cuvees with longer sur-lie aging will be released by Fred Lailler from this excellent vintage.

  • Out of Stock
  • white
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  • $16.99

Luneau-Papin 2012 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Terres de Pierres

This fascinating wine is from a new parcel of 40 year-old vines, La Butte de la Roche, high on a dome of igneous rock with quartz stones and serpentine minerals overlooking the marshes of Goulaine. The young Pierre-Marie Luneau is in charge here and is doing great vineyard work, reclaiming this wonderful site. The 2012 has subtle, delicate aromas of stone, mushroom, citrus and earth. The palate is all minerals, with hints of white fruits, white pepper and herbs. Quite intense and with very firm acidity, the wine will be perfect with sushi, broiled fish, roast chicken, goat cheeses, and should age beautifully for 15 years or more.

  • Out of Stock
  • white
  • 0 in stock
  • $21.99

Luneau-Papin 2012 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Le "L" d'Or

From a parcel of old vines on granite soils in Vallet that always gives a racy, mineral wine that can age for 20 years and more. I'm not partial to the new label, but otherwise this is a great vintage for "L" d'Or. 2012 was a low-yielding year giving wines with excellent concentration matched with bracing acidity. The wine shows lovely aromas of pear liqueur, citrus, stone and white pepper; the palate is dense with white fruits, intense saline minerals with firm acidity in the long citrus/mineral finish. You know what to do...

  • Out of Stock
  • white
  • 0 in stock
  • $19.99

Luneau-Papin 2007 Muscadet Sevre et Maine Le "L" D'Or

2007 was a very good vintage for this great cuvée from old vines on a terroir of granite with mica-schiste in Vallet. A good choice for any mild-flavored fish or poultry dish, there are pretty citrus, thyme and floral aromas and complex mineral flavors on the palate. While lacking the depth and weight of 2002 and 2009, this is still a lovely wine and the finish opens nicely with a few hours of air, showing intriguing licorice and anise notes. While invigorating to drink now, with crisp acidity, this wine will develop slowly — don't be afraid to put a few in storage, it should be lovely in 15 years.

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  • white
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  • $31.99

Luneau-Papin 1999 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Le "L" d'Or (Arrives 6/3)

(Tasted in 2010) Wow, the 1999 "L" is finally beginning to sing! Aromas of lemon oil, thyme, stone, still quite fresh. The palate is opening with complex citrus and exotic fruit with of course a healthy dose of almost bitter stony minerality and a beautiful finish. A gorgeous wine that will continue to improve for another ten years at least...

  • Out of Stock
  • white
  • 0 in stock
  • $61.99