Tasting at Brovia, May 2015

Brovia - the best of 2011

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As pronounced in an earlier email, we think Brovia made fantastic wine in 2011. Hyperbole would not be hyperbolic: we have seldom tasted young wines that seem so complete, balanced, promising, and on a strictly technical basis, delicious. However, these are not wines for the near-term; despite the ripe fruit and tannin that shows the best aspects of the vintage, they will need considerable time in the cellar. It’s a really stunning group of wines, and worth the effort (and patience!). In market terms these wines also represent (or we might say: still represent) an excellent price-quality-rapport for wine of absolutely world-class quality. Jamie Wolff

 

Giacinto Brovia at the beach. He died last year but left his family property
in great hands.                                                                                            

 

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Brovia 2011 Barolo

2011 Barolo is an amazingly elegant and – sorry, but I can’t think of a more accurate way to say it – classy wine. Deep, restrained, sophisticated (sorry, again!); it’s very savory and subtle, not showing a lot of fruit. There’s no heat, the tannins are beautifully ripe and velvety, and it has great length. Absolutely classic fine wine – amazing wine, actually. Jamie Wolff

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Brovia 2011 Barolo Brea Ca'Mia

Ca'Mia is beautiful and intense – a direct reminder of the white soil, mineral chalk earth of the vineyard. It’s quite rich but suave, hitting a balance of depth and intensity with a fundamentally austere and elegant character. A great success. Jamie Wolff

*Brea is the official name of the cru; Ca'Mia is the Brovia's proprietary name for their vines in Brea.

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Brovia 2011 Barolo Garblet Sué

Garblet Sue shows more fruit on the nose and warmer notes overall than the other crus. Again a balance between richness and austerity, with drier intense tannin, showing some of the warmth of the vintage. At present quite tight and less expressive than some of the other wines, this is nonetheless going to be very memorable given time in the cellar. Jamie Wolff

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Brovia 2011 Barolo Rocche di Castiglione

Significantly more depth than the very fine Barolo classico, with herbs and meaty notes along with notable chalk tang – very fine grained tannins; a bit richer and rounder than the 2010, but lacking none of the finesse that Rocche (and the Brovias) can produce. Jamie Wolff

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Brovia 2011 Barolo Villero

Like Rocche this has a lushness and sweet fruit that, while it speaks to the vintage, is still very classic; it’s a bit more austere and angular, with slightly chewy tannin; now a bit tight. I think this will be very fine in time, but then I have this wacky idea that Villero is the Amoureuses of Barolo. Jamie Wolff

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