From the Belvedere in La Morra, facing east toward Castiglione Falletto

Piedmont G - S: Some New Arrivals + Look What We Found in the Cellar!

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Chatter abounds regarding the future of wine prices in Piedmont. A good part of it is based on the sensation, which seems to be widespread, that the Chinese wine market may be turning its mercurial eye toward Barolo and Barbaresco. Bordeaux had its turn; Burgundy is still hot in China, but unlike Bordeaux there isn’t enough to go around. There are very few Piedmont wines that even begin to approach the price level of their quality peers in France, so perhaps there’s room for speculation; even Monfortino or Giacosa Riserva are cheap next to the DRC. A recent auction in Milano of bottles from Luigi Veronelli’s cellar has been reported to me (by both Americans and Italians) as “all bought by Asians.” All of which may be exaggerated, of course, and I don’t mean to suggest that the best wines of Piedmont are inexpensive now. But there is no question that they remain undervalued in the context of Grand Vin, and you can still enjoy a profound bottle of mature Barolo or Barbaresco from a great vintage for less than $200. The collectors we buy old wine from have been moderate with their price increases, but in any event we never know when the music’s going to stop and the supply dry up, or something external occur, like the newly proposed State Liquor Authority regulations that would effectively kill all trade in old wine in New York. More about that soon (unfortunately), but meanwhile, enjoy the music while it’s playing! Jamie Wolff

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Oddero, Fratelli 1964 Barolo

Oddero is one of just a handful of producers who made excellent wine in the past and who continue to do so now. Admittedly our opinion of their current vintages is biased, since we admire Oddero's fidelity to Barolo made in the traditional manner. Anyway, the old wines are great, and we're happy to have old vintages whenever we can.

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