François and Claude de Nicolay of Chandon de Briailles

Burgundy: Dinner and Tasting of the 2014 Vintage with Claude de Nicolay from Chandon de Briailles

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Of the many benefits of working at Chambers Street Wines, one of the greatest privileges is working year after year with talented and conscientious growers. Tasting the wines from superlative winemakers and farmers in both easy and difficult years is inspiring and instructive of how one adjusts to the vicissitudes of vintage. Nowhere is this more apparent than in Burgundy, which has seen a run of incredibly trying harvests with everything from hail, torrential rains at flowering, Suzuki flies, and most recently a devastating frost. Yet despite these travails, we continue to marvel at the truly beautiful wines they produce.

One such grower is the biodynamic producer Domaine Chandon de Briailles. Based in the village of Savigny-lès-Beaune with vines in Corton and Pernand-Vergelesses, the estate has roots going back to 1834. Claude de Nicolay with her brother François fashion pure, old-school, age-worthy Burgundy. The vineyard work has been organic since the 1980s and certified biodynamic since 2005 with vines replanted with massale selection. Yields are kept low to express the terroir of each vineyard. In most vintages the estate uses whole cluster fermentation to add a layer of structure to ensure ageability, though the regimen will be modified depending on vintage character. Wine making is ultra-traditional with fermentations begun with native yeasts in tank, long elevages with minimal influence of new oak, and bottling without fining or filtration. This light and deft hand brings out the distinctive character of each vineyard.

2014 was another trying vintage in Burgundy with the after effects of the hail of 2013, not to mention more hail in 2014. With already low yields, this leads to another ‘virtual vintage’ as Claude de Nicolay has termed this series of recent harvests. Yet a beautiful end of Summer with sunny skies and cool nights resulted in a harvest producing wines which are beautifully balanced and showing lovely pure fruit and great finesse. The aromas are pretty and the structure somewhat generous, so they will drink well young, expressing the delicacy of the Pinot Noir fruit and revealing their terroir. The Premier and Grand Crus will age beautifully, best perhaps 2023 to 2035 and beyond.

We are also delighted to be hosting vigneronne Claude de Nicolay who will be presenting a number of her 2014s in the store on Monday, May 16, from 5-7 PM, followed by a dinner at Racines featuring the sophisticated cuisine of Chef Frédéric Duca paired with seven wines from the exciting 2014 vintage, as well as the 2000 Corton Clos du Roi. Claude will preside throughout the dinner and provide commentary on each wine - this is an evening not to be missed! John McIlwain

 

Chandon de Briailles 2014 Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru Ile de Vergeleses Blanc

From 1 HA of vines planted in 1985 by Claude de Nicolay’s mother. In addition to Chardonnay, there are 6 rows of Pinot Blanc. Something of a rarity as Ile des Vergelesses is considered by most to be the finest red wine climat in Pernand Vergelesses, the Blanc from Chandon de Briailles also features  Pinot Blanc adding an extra layer of aromatics to this Pernand blanc. Floral on the nose with aromas of honeysuckle, apple blossom, and bosc pear. The palate is generous with notes of lemon curd, tropical fruit, and stone on the midweight, pretty, energetic, and forward palate. Delicious now and a true rarity! Enjoy with roasted chicken, turkey or guinea hen, broiled swordfish,  or strong cheeses. John McIlwain

  • white
  • 9 in stock
  • $67.99

  • Organic
  • Biodynamic

Chandon de Briailles 2014 Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru Ile des Vergelesses

While the jewel of the premier crus of Pernand-Vergelesses, like Les Lavières, the Ile de Vergelesses vineyard suffered substantially from the hail of 2013. Another in a series of what Claude de Nicolay refers to as “virtual vintages” only half the normal crop was harvested in the 2014 vintage. In light of the vintage character, fermentation was 40% whole cluster with a somewhat shorter elevage to emphasize the beautifully pure fruit. Here the nose shows a blend of black fruits, wood smoke, baking spices, and faint hints of anise. The mid-weight palate features blackberry, cassis, and blood orange flavors giving way to a pungent, nearly saline minerality, which carries thru on the persistent, sapid finish. This has impeccable balance, if not the power of more blockbuster vintages. This is attractive and has plenty of drive and detail to frame the pure, pretty fruit. John McIlwain

  • red
  • 1 in stock
  • $61.99

  • Biodynamic

Chandon de Briailles 2014 Corton Clos du Roi

From .38 HA biodynamically farmed vines averaging over 40 years old, high on the hillside of Corton. Traditionally the most powerful and stern of the stable of red Corton lieu-dits at Chandon de Briailles. 80% whole cluster fermentation. There’s a fair bit of reduction to this initially, but with a long decant this recedes to reveal aromas plummy black fruit, animale funk, black tea, and fresh-turned earth. In the mouth ripe red/black fruit flavors mingle with pungent minerality on the vibrant mid-weight palate. There is good sap and firm, but ripe tannins supporting the fruit on the long, substantial finish. This has real class and should be sensational after 10-15 years in the cellar. John McIlwain

  • red
  • 5 in stock
  • $159.99

  • Biodynamic

Dinner with Claude de Nicolay of Chandon de Briailles at Racines 5/16

Please join vigneronne Claude de Nicolay from Chandon de Briailles as we taste an exciting group of wines from the excellent 2014 vintage. We'll taste multiple Premier Cru and Grand Cru wines as well as the 2000 Corton Clos du Roi, with commentary by the winemaker, while enjoying a superb four-course dinner created for the occasion by Chef Frédéric Duca.  Monday, May 16th at 7:00pm, $140 all inclusive. Racines NY, 94 Chambers Street (Church).

  • Out of Stock
  • 0 in stock
  • no discount
  • $140.00

Chandon de Briailles 2014 Corton Grand Cru Blanc

Comprised of fruit from Bressandes (2/3) which per Claude de Nicolay lends richness and Chaumes, located beneath Les Pougets (1/3) which lends a degree of “saltiness.” The 2014 Corton Blanc shows a lovely balance between power and elegance. Aromatically it shows yellow flowers, orange peel and hints of sea spray and wet stone. The palate displays pretty flavors of stone fruit, Meyer lemon, and apple overlying an overt, if not overwhelming minerality on a medium weight (for Corton) palate. This shows plenty of energy and drive, if not mass, on a long, detailed, and mouthwatering finish. John McIlwain

  • Out of Stock
  • white
  • 0 in stock
  • $124.99

  • Biodynamic
  • Out of Stock
  • red
  • 0 in stock
  • $21.99

  • Biodynamic
  • Out of Stock
  • red
  • 0 in stock
  • $37.99

  • Organic
  • Biodynamic

Chandon de Briailles 2014 Savigny-les-Beaune 1er Cru Les Lavières

After serious devastation by hail in 2013 when Les Lavières was not bottled (but made into something akin to a vin doux naturel, which has yet to be bottled) 2014 produced a lovely, if substantially reduced crop from the cru. 20% whole cluster fermentation with no chaptalization and bottled at 12.3% abv. The 2014 Les Lavières is pretty and detailed, rather than powerful. The aromas are cool-toned and red-fruited, with hints of strawberry and wild cherry. The racy, supple palate has flavors of red raspberry, cherry, and pomegranate supported by fine, ripe tannins and bright acidity. And while this is no heavyweight, the purity of the fruit and the lively energy makes this a pleasure to taste and the structure certainly bodes well for mid-term ageability for this agréable à boire Burgundy. John McIlwain

  • Out of Stock
  • red
  • 0 in stock
  • $51.99

  • Biodynamic