New Old Piedmont Wine, 1947 -1993, A - G

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Over the past few years prices for old and new Barolo and Barbaresco have risen a bit, but nothing like the increase in prices for Burgundy and Bordeaux. Rather than putting faith in less stable trends (like Bordeaux in China), most of the Piemontese producers I know have watched the craziness around French wine prices and have determined to take a long term view in order to build and sustain wide interest and availability of their wines. Of course Piedmont is much more similar to Burgundy in size and structure, but it’s still a lot easier to buy the top wines from Piedmont, with only a few approaching Burgundian price equivalents; even the fanciest Piedmont wines remain relatively reasonable by comparison. And despite a gradual upward nudging of prices, one striking thing about older Piedmont wine is that you can still buy properly-cellared mature Barolo and Barbaresco for not a whole lot more than the current release of the same wine. Old Ceretto isn’t fashionable, but the quality of their old wines is exemplary, and from that perspective they merit higher prices; ditto Cordero di Montezemolo, Franco-Fiorina, Prunotto, and Oddero (both on our next offer). In a tasting last year Fontanafredda 1961, 1971 and 1974 were excellent; those wines are still very fairly priced (I see that an importer is offering the 1961 Fontanafredda Barolo at wholesale for $418.16 per bottle. Pricing is an imperfect science). Jamie Wolff

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Ceretto - Bricco Asili 1978 Barbaresco Asili

As we explain again and again, Ceretto, now a modern-style producer, made great wine in the old days. 1978 is a big-deal vintage, the result of a hot summer and auspiciously timed rain; good ‘78s, like this one, are just beginning to hit their stride. We have 1982 Asili too — also a fine vintage, and an excellent wine.

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