Barolo by Commune

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It’s conventional wisdom (repeated to the point of cliché) that each of the towns in the Barolo zone produce wine of specific character, a reflection of local geology and other factors. And generally speaking an educated taster has a decent chance of telling Serralunga from La Morra, and so on. But the hand of the winemaker matters just as much, and I’m not at all confident that I would know that the G. Rinaldi Brunate was from the same commune as, say, the Altare Arborina. In any case, the following wines are organized by town – another way to parse a list rich in classic wine. Jamie Wolff

La Morra from Scarrone (photo by Keith Bailey)

*The towns and producers (listed in this offer - there are others located there!) are Barolo: Barale, Giacomo Borgogno, Brezza, Marchesi di Barolo, Bartolo Mascarello; Castiglione Falletto: Cavallotto, Ceretto, Domenico Clerico, Parusso, Vietti; Monforte: Aldo Conterno, Giacomo Conterno, Paolo Conterno, Fenocchio, Pianpolvere Soprano; La Morra: Altare, Cordero di Montezemolo, Marcarini, Oddero Fratelli; Verduno: Alessandria, Burlotto; Serralunga: Cappellano, Fontanafredda, Massolino, Guido Porro; Alba: Einaudi, Franco Fiorina. *(We are working to correct a web glitch that makes it very difficult to insert descriptive text in a list of wines, so please excuse this alternate approach).

One other important note: the wines are here, but will not be ready for pick-up or delivery until Tuesday, May 2nd.

 

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Cordero di Montezemolo 1971 Barolo Monfalletto

A consistently excellent wine — we've been lucky to get to taste this several times in the last few years. It needs a lot of time to breathe, and then it provides a classic example of fully mature Nebbiolo. Jamie Wolff

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Oddero, Fratelli 1964 Barolo

Oddero is one of just a handful of producers who made excellent wine in the past and who continue to do so now. Admittedly our opinion of their current vintages is biased, since we admire Oddero's fidelity to Barolo made in the traditional manner. Anyway, the old wines are great, and we're happy to have old vintages whenever we can.

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Cappellano 1973 Barolo (bottled by Troglia)

Troglia was a wine merchant in Torino. Until the 1970s most wine was sold in bulk to merchants or private consumers, and then bottled for re-sale or home consumption — it's still quite common for producers to sell some of their production in bulk. We've had Cappellano Barolo bottled by Troglia back to 1954, and they certainly did a good job of it, using the funky, misshapen bottle associated with Gattinara.

 

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Fiorina, Franco 1958 Barolo

This was a lovely haunting wine from this often overlooked négociant. It reminded me of Bartolo Mascarello as it leaned towards the feminine side of the spectrum. This wine hails from La Morra where the wines are more elegant and is north from Barolo proper. Gorgeous highly floral nose of cherry, tar and tobacco with some chestnut. The aromas were pure and caressing. This was a wine that indeed was singing to me. One of the few times that that highly overused term actually rang true. Palate had detailed pure floral-tinged cherry and strawberry fruit. The concentration was very admirable and the tannin quality was great. Pearly. A wonderful Barolo giving all its got. LF

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