Tissot's vines in Arbois. Photo courtesy of Eben Lillie

A Connoisseur's Cellar, Part Three: Jura Wine

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Our friend, the Connoisseur, has collected some of the Jura's most sought-after wines. It's been a while since many of us have seen these sort of quantities from the now allocated producers we enjoy (sorry - he couldn't part with his Overnoy). Those new to the Jura will find a rare chance to try a range of styles from one of our favorite regions. Amanda Bowman

 

Important Note:

These wines are in professional-quality wine storage, and we've just spent 3 days there inspecting every bottle in the cellar. Because of the large volume of wines they are not available for quick delivery - we can't bring them back to the store at one time, but we expect to take them in here over the next couple of weeks. Please inquire if you have any questions about this.

 

 

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Chais du Vieux Bourg 2008 Côtes du Jura Poulsard

As a kid I used to pick sour cherries in the cherry orchard behind my aunt and uncle's house and spend the afternoon pitting them on their front porch. '08 Chais Vieux Bourg brought this childhood memory to the forefront of my mind. There's so much vivid, pure, tangy cherry fruit here that you'll find yourself salivating. The nose offers classic Jurassian earthiness along with a definite cherry pit note. Super pale in the glass, it's a wine for true Jura lovers. Cheers to Ludwig Bindernagel for making such a lovely expression of Poulsard. -msb

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La Loue 2009 Arbois Chardonnay Sous Voile

This is a very striking sous voile Chardonnay from a tiny grower in the Arbois who learned winemaking (in part) from Emmanuel Houillon. The nose is deeply redolent of voile, the palate intense, round, and full of dried apples and rich, floral notes. It's an oxidative wine that will certainly reward a substantial meal. If you have time to prepare chicken with morels, we think this wine would set your dinner off perfectly. -msb

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La Loue 2011 Arbois Savagnin Cuvée Raphaëlle

Catherine Hannoun eschewed her career in film to begin her journey to producing some truly wonderful wines. After learning the art of natural wine making from Arbois mavericks, Pierre Overnoy and Manu Houillon, she started her own micro-estate in Arbois. Farming just .8 hectares of vines, mainly Savagnin, she has been practicing biodynamics from the beginning. The result is gorgeous. Her Cuvée Raphaëlle spends another year in neutral barrique, which lends a hand to the wine being more densely perfumed and has incredible focus and depth. Salty minerals, honeysuckle and mango skin come to mind. It is an absolute pleasure to drink and is mouth-filling, fresh and has a lingering acidity. We are definitely excited to see more of her wines in the future! Tim Gagnon

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Ganevat 2007 Côtes du Jura Cuvée de Garde

This wine is in the warehouse and will not be available for pick-up or delivery until after Labor Day.

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Ganevat 2009 Côtes du Jura Rouge Sainte Cecyle

This wine is in the warehouse and will not be available for pick-up or delivery until August 23rd.

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Ganevat 2009 Côtes du Jura Savagnin Cuvée Prestige

This wine -- one of the few sous voile wines Fan-fan Ganevat makes -- sparked an interesting discussion at the wine store, culminating in the decision that we all really, really liked the wine. The question was: why buy this over Valdespino's Innocente, which delivers lots of flor for much less money. This wine, however, does not taste like a sherry. The voile character is supported by the same intense, high acid, dense, apply fruit one finds in Ganevat's ouillé wines. This is a beautiful bottle. The nose offers smoky notes as well as umami, walnut skin, and mustard seed, but it's the velvety, full-fruited palate clamping down with minerality on the finish that slays. It's not an inexpensive bottle, but the drinker is well rewarded. -msb 

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Ganevat 2010 Cote du Jura Chardonnay La Combe Rotalier Oh!

This wine is in the warehouse and will not be available for pick-up or delivery until August 23rd.

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Ganevat 2011 Côtes du Jura Pinot Noir en Billat

This wine is in the warehouse and will not be available for pick-up or delivery until August 23rd.

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Ganevat 2011 Côtes du Jura Pinot Noir Cuvée Julien

This wine is in the warehouse and will not be available for pick-up or delivery until August 23rd.

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Puffeney 2002 Arbois Vin Jaune 620 ml

Vin Jaune is the perfect gift for the wine geek in your life. Made from the highest quality Savagnin grapes — high in both sugar and acidity at the time of harvest — Vin Jaune requires at least six and a half years of aging under the traditional veil of yeast before bottling. Jacques Puffeney, "pope of the Jura," waits an additional two years to ensure the quality of the wine in the bottles. Intense and complex, these wines can age a lifetime. -msb

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Puffeney 2011 Arbois Trousseau Les Berangeres

As usual, even in a tough vintage, Puffeney's Trousseau "les Bérangères" does not disappoint. The nose offers ripe, brambly berries: blackberry, dark cherry, black raspberry, as well as a delicious hint of forest floor. The palate is fairly rich and concentrated for a Jura red wine, but with fresh acidity, earthiness, and firm, mouth-coating tannins. Truly a fantastic effort. MSB

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Puffeney NV Arbois Cuvee Sacha

Puffeney continues the tradition of the non-vintage Sacha with delicous results! The nose is all nuts and flor aromas showing the unmistakable tang of white wines raised this way, while the palate unleashes a burst of crunchy, bright, lemon-y fruit. We love Sacha, and this does not disappoint. Tim Gagnon

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Tissot (Andre et Mireille Stephane) 2008 Arbois Savagnin (30 months sous voile)

This wine is in the warehouse and will not be available for pick-up or delivery until August 23rd.

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Tissot, Stephane 2010 Savagnin En Amphore

The ever energetic and experimental Stéphane Tissot has begun to acquire anphorae. We think this is only the second vintage of anphora wine Stéphane has made and the first vintage was 2009 and higher in alcohol by at least a degree. This one is a reasonable 13%. This Savagnin is aged for three months on the skins in anphora then finished in neutral barrel with topping up. We enjoyed its spicy, exotic orange peel notes on the nose. Clean and well made and definitely orange. -msb

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