"Here where there's wine, there's no need for water"

Not least (and not last): Most of the rest of France

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We’ve received about 50 cases of additional wine from the Connoisseur’s Cellar; this week’s round of offers also includes some more-than-worthy bottles that perhaps got lost in the sheer volume of our earlier emails. By now it’s likely that you share our impression that years of acquaintance and friendship has proved: this is one smart wine person, uncompromising and focused on the best, if not always the obvious or well-known. In short, a true connoisseur.

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Buronfosse, Peggy and Jean-Pascal 2011 Côtes du Jura Chardonnay Varron

This is a beautiful Chardonnay from Peggy and Jean-Pascal Buronfosse! 65-year-old vines planted in red clay soils provide the fruit for this cuvée and the wine is made in the ouillé style. Very ripe melon and peach mingle with delicate savory aromas. Salty minerals are accompanied by a citrus zing that gives this wine fantastic structure. Tim Gagnon

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Clos du Rouge Gorge (Cyril Fhal) 2011 VdP des Côtes Catalanes L'Ubac

This is one of the most rare and elegant wines of the south of France. According to Fhal, "L'Ubac (slope with the least sun) is from one of those rare parcels well suited to the Cinsault of the Roussillon. This variety, which made its reputation in certain wines before phylloxera, has been neglected or poorly planted since, often in the plains where its capable of prodigious, that is to say catastrophic, yields. This parcel is a 70 degree slope on gneiss facing due north, with 40 year-old vines worked by hand and by horse. It's the Pinot Noir of the south for me! A material very fine, very delicate, with length and a strong signature of terroir. With the Cinsault, there is Carignan from the same parcel planted in 1905, which, due to its age and its location on the steep slope, has truly a profile very mineral and fine. Whole bunch maceration, but foot-tread when put in cuve as I don't wish to have carbonic maceration. I keep the stems for the finesse of the tannins that they give. 20 month aging in 500 liter Austrian demi-muid."

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Ganevat 2009 Côtes du Jura Rouge Sainte Cecyle

This wine is in the warehouse and will not be available for pick-up or delivery until August 23rd.

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Ganevat 2010 Cote du Jura Chardonnay La Combe Rotalier Oh!

This wine is in the warehouse and will not be available for pick-up or delivery until August 23rd.

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Ganevat 2011 Côtes du Jura Pinot Noir Cuvée Julien

This wine is in the warehouse and will not be available for pick-up or delivery until August 23rd.

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Ganevat 2011 Côtes du Jura Pinot Noir en Billat

This wine is in the warehouse and will not be available for pick-up or delivery until August 23rd.

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Tissot (Andre et Mireille Stephane) 2008 Arbois Savagnin (30 months sous voile)

This wine is in the warehouse and will not be available for pick-up or delivery until August 23rd.

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Trévallon 2011 Alpilles Blanc

This wine is in the warehouse and will not be available for pick-up or delivery until August 23rd.

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Clos du Jaugueyron (Théron) 2011 Margaux

This is the most important wine in Michel’s line-up, as it is what Margaux was once known for and what it can be again if winemakers revert to the old-school traditions. It is sourced from older vines (some over 100 years old!) and is rife with aromas of purple flowers, blackberry, espresso, and cocoa. The palate is big-boned, yet has very pretty fruit and spice coming through before a long, high-toned finish. In terms of aging, this wine seems indestructible, but holds true that the wines from Clos du Jaugueyron are more than enjoyable at every stage of their life. It is serious and contemplative with unparalleled beauty.  Give this a decant before dinner, and you’ll be thrilled. Tim Gagnon

Black fruits, cassis, ash, dried thyme, graphite on the nose. Blackberry and plum flavors with hints of mint on the palate. Fine-grained, but present tannins. Good underlying structure and sense of freshness. Mid-weight, supple, and lively on a long persistent finish.  Decant 1-2 hrs ahead or hold 5-8 years and drink from there. This is lovely old school Bordeaux. (Tasted August 2017.) John McIlwain


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