The hillside of Maranges in the Côte de Beaune

A Fine Selection of Aged Burgundy

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" Burgundy makes you think of silly things..." -Brillat-Savarin

As we settle into Fall and the air cools (hopefully soon), we think of heartier foods and heart-warming wines. And few wines warm the soul and whet the appetite like well-aged Burgundy.

Below is a selection of fine wines from the Côte d'Or and beyond acquired from a pair of longtime collectors, who decided to thin their cellars. The wines were stored professionally; as always all bottles are guaranteed. Happy hunting! John McIlwain

 

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Lafarge 2011 Beaune 1er Cru Grèves

The Beaune-Grèves is more powerful than the Aigrots; it is earthier and has darker fruit. There is a lot of mouth-weight and tannin, and that wonderful 2011 acidity that comes out on the finish. Like most of Lafarge's wines, this could age for a long time. A great effort! JBT

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  • Organic
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Chandon de Briailles 2011 Savigny-les-Beaune

Recently Chandon de Briailles has adjusted their stem use during fermentation and in fact the 2011 Savigny Villages does not feature whole-cluster fermentation. There was some trouble in this vintage harvesting clusters with ripe stems, and it was decided that a pretty and more open, accessible wine would result from fermentation without stems. The wine is pretty, sleek, open, and somewhat easier-going on the palate than the Domaine's other bottlings. Fresh and lithe on the palate with tasty purple fruit, this wine is for drinking now or cellaring 5 years or less. -msb

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Chevillon, Robert 2011 Nuits St Georges Vieilles Vignes

On a very hot summer day in 2012, I visited Bernard Chevillon in his extremely cold cellar, which was built in the 18th Century. For his 2011 vintage, all grapes were completely destemmed, they had a one week soak, and three weeks of fermentation. About his Nuits St Georges VV he said, "My current baby, a nice surprise.” This wine has very rich red fruit and woodsy aromas good mouthweight and a long finish. A nice solid Nuits St Georges. JBT

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De Montille 2011 Pommard 1er Cru Grands Epenots

This is ripe and full of red fruit with silky tannins and great acidity and intensity and length. A powerful wine, Grands Epenots is one of the greatest of all Pommard 1er Crus, just a step behind the Rugiens-Bas.This was vinified with 33% whole clusters, a decision made based on the ripeness of the stems. JBT    

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Faverelles 2014 Bourgogne Vezelay Rouge Pinot Deraisonnee Sans Soufre

My husband and I find ourselves eating a lot of cured meats around the holidays, and we love pairing such fare with a cheerful bottle of Pinot Noir. The Faverelles is a recent addition to our list of favorites.  Parisian book seller turned Burgundian winemaker Patrick Bringer knows how to showcase an unadulterated side of Pinot Noir.  Under Domaine Faverelles, Bringer tends to 6 hectares of vines in the hillside town of Vézelay.  The vines are certified organic and biodynamically farmed, something Bringer is deeply passionate about.  In fact, it's been said that strawberries and other vegetation grow beneath the vines.  It's only natural then that such a simply delicious Pinot is the result of a conscientious winemaker.  Faverelles 2014 Pinot Deraisonnee is more mindful than its French moniker, but just as amusing.  The wine is incredibly light and delicate with ripe pomegranate and tart cranberry.  Crisp acidity, soft tannins, and freshly grated beet root round out the palate.  The grapes are grown on limestone soil topped with red clay and harvested by hand.  Native yeasts are used during fermentation and the resulting juice is neither fined or filtered with minimal sulfur added at bottling, so drink now rather than later.  A jovial wine that is quite quaffable. Lily Sears

 

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Lafarge 2011 Beaune 1er Cru Les Aigrots

The 1er Cru Les Aigrots is on the mid-to-upper slope on the Pommard side of Beaune, as opposed to the Savigny-les-Beaune side. Aigrots is bordered by Les Clos des Mouches, Les Vignes Franches, Pertuisots, Les Sizies, and Champs Pimont. Domaine Lafarge's vines are about 40 years old and Frederic Lafarge says the vines are very unusual; they are growing in a different way from vine to vine to vine, some are very bushy and some have sparse foliage, which may be because of the great variety of plant material in this vineyard. He said that while some growers removed leaves to promote better air circulation, he likes to leave them on to protect the grapes from the near inevitability of a hailstorm. This wine has great fruit upfront and then tannins and astringency—a big structure and all of the components for a long life. JBT

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Bongran (Jean Thevenet) 2005 Viré-Clessé Cuvée Tradition

This is a great vintage for Domaine Bongran and winemaker Gautier Thevenet. Gorgeous round and honeyed citrus and exotic fruit, the palate is ripe but balanced with a core of limestone acidity. This is a great white Burgundy for current drinking but it will cellar well also for another 10 years and more....

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De Moor (Vendangeur Masque) 2012 Chablis (3 btls max)

Three bottles maximum pruchase, please.

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De Villaine, A.P. 2014 Bouzeron Aligoté

A bright and briny Bouzeron from  Aubert de Villaine displays the chalky, ground oyster shell nerviness of the Aligoté grape. The 2014 offers aromas of sea breeze, Meyer lemon peel, lemon verbena, and white fruits on the nose. Citrus fruit and saline character mark the racy, brisk palate with a long chalky lifted finish. Enjoy with fresh goat cheeses, or a platter of raw oysters. John McIlwain

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Vignes du Maynes 2011 Macon Cruzille Manganite

The Manganite is made with old-vine Gamay from the magnificent Macon-Cruzille vineyard of the Clos des Vignes du Maynes, whose untreated soils produce remarkably subtle and complex wines. Lovely aromas of red currant, strawberry, licorice and earth, the palate is bright with pure berry fruits with graphite and mineral notes, dense but light and balanced and with terrific length. This is a "living" wine made with zero additives that is really unique and delicious! Certified organic and biodynamic. The 2012's are on the way, so we're moving out the delicious 2011 at a deep discount!

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