New from the Jura: Les Granges Paquenesses!

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Loreline Laborde is living the fantasy many city dwellers have during rush hour: fleeing the city to live a quiet life in harmony with nature. After completing her formal studies in viticulture, Loreline left the bustling city of Montpellier to make wine in the undulating foothills of Tourmont, a village near Poligny. She established Les Granges Paquenesses in 2010 with almost 2 hectares planted to Savagnin, Chardonnay, Ploussard, and Trousseau averaging 30 to 60 years-old. Today she has pieced together a total of 3.5 hectares, which she just converted to France's Agence Bio organic standard this year. Although she is not native to the Jura, her wines convey a deep understanding of the varied soils and climate.

Loreline Laborde pouring her Crémant.

The first bottle I tasted from Les Granges Paquenesses was on a dismal, rainy evening. The Crémant was anonymously poured into my glass but the nutty aromatics bursting with salty, tropical zest needed little introduction. I was inspired first and foremost to make myself a cheese plate; then to find out who was behind Paquenesses so I could try every bottle I could afford - happily, that was all of them. Her "Mamette" cuvée is one of the most mineral Jura Chardonnays I have tasted, calling to mind "Patchwork" from Tissot. The 2013 vintage is exuberant, clean, and open after a few years of bottle age. Her Trousseau is also not to be missed. Exquisitely perfumed with wild rose, dried herbs, and red fruits, and sturdy enough to accompany hearty meat dishes this winter and beyond! Amanda Bowman

Les Granges Paquenesses NV Côtes du Jura Cremant Extra Brut

100% Chardonnay on clay and limestone in Pupillin, vinified for 6 months in large foudres. This is a joyful bottle with a fine mousse bursting with aromas of dry hay, iris, toasted hazelnut, Comté, and baked orchard fruit. The palate has an elegant frame of mineral acidity. Flavors are gently oxidative with floral undertones, ginger, and cherry pit. A delicious bottle to serve with raclette, Peking duck, or on its own! Amanda Bowman

  • white sparkling
  • 9 in stock
  • $25.99

  • Organic
  • Biodynamic
  • Low Sulfur

Les Granges Paquenesses 2015 Côtes du Jura Chardonnay "Mamette"

"Mamette" is 100% Chardonnay from 30 year-old organic vines planted in clay and limestone soils in Pupillin. Incredibly mineral and beautifully textured, this is a complex wine at a fantastic value. If drinking now, allow some time for the aromas to open up and you will be rewarded with vibrant notes of lemon pith, salty Comté cheese, hazelnuts and stone. The body is rich with fresh flavors of ripe, yellow fruits, nectarine, and salt on the mid-palate. The finish is intensely mineral and gratifying. A delicious wine to pair with oysters, Thai curry, or by itself. "Mamette" is drinking beautifully now, but should shine in 2-3 years. Amanda Bowman

  • white
  • 13 in stock
  • $22.99

  • Organic
  • Biodynamic
  • Low Sulfur

Les Granges Paquenesses 2015 Côtes du Jura Trousseau

The Trousseau was a standout the first time we tried it, alongside the rest of Loreline's cuvées. So much so that we decided to revisit, just to be sure it was as delightful as we remembered. I can confirm that it remains so pure in its Jura-ness that it induces giddiness. From Loreline's organic vineyard of 60 year-old vines on blue and gray marne , the 2015 benefited from the warm, sunny vintage. Upon opening, the aromas are bold with earthy spiciness and a touch of reduction. After an hour of air, aromas of rose petals, spiced raspberries, and alpine herbs emerge to reveal a wine with gravitas. The palate begs for food with dark stone fruit and grippy tannins that sneak up on the mid-palate and finish with a hint of bitter anise. Serve slightly chilled with salty mountain cheeses, charcuterie, or wild mushrooms. Amanda Bowman

  • red
  • 12 in stock
  • $25.99

  • Organic
  • Biodynamic
  • Low Sulfur