Where, exactly, is Bugey? Even the most committed wine geeks often do not know the answer to this question. Bugey comprises hills at the very southern tip of the Jura mountain range, but is, in fact, closer to the Savoie than to the Jura in distance (and the wines are more akin to the wines of the Savoie than to those of the Jura...) Interestingly, also, the vineyards of Montagnieu overlook the Rhône Valley and there is a certain ripe, Rhône-ish aspect to this Altesse in some vintages. Franck Peillot has long been a favorite of ours, and his Altesse (known also as Roussette), is lovely in 2013. Grown on limestone soil, the wine offers pretty honey and orchard fruits on the nose: floral pear, white peach and citrus while maintaining an underlying stoniness and minerality on the palate, and the long finish is like an alpine stream. MSB
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