We are surprised and pleased when we taste Gahier's Chardonnay La Fauquette that no matter the vintage and no matter the light (and delicious) oxidation that marks the wine, there is always a distinct "Fauquette-ness," down to the bouillon note on the nose that characterized the '90 Fauquette tasted in Michel Gahier's cellar last year. The nose has some aroma-lifting volatile acidity, which heightens the nutty, savory, and honeyed aromatics of the wine. One might go so far as to say "sesame seeds, baked apples, and wild flower honey." The palate is silky and surprisingly plush for the vintage with a long nuttiness and a fresh lift of acidity. Hunt down some Tomme Crayeuse and have yourself a ball! -msb
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