After falling in love with COS Frappato, it was great to add Ariana Occhipinti’s version to our shelves a few years ago — both are serious wines of great depth and are standard-bearers for the remarkable quality that can be achieved in Sicily. But it turns out that an easier, less expensive Frappato is also a very fine thing. Defino comes from organically farmed grapes (a friend who is one of Tuscany’s best winemakers consults on the winemaking), and for $12.99 you get a really lovely fresh red, light and juicy but with plenty of intensity on the palate. This is on the short list for the ultimate pizza wine, but really we mean that in reference to: “it’s Tuesday night, and we want a glass of something delicious that doesn’t break the bank”. Actually Frappato is a terrific food wine — a red-wine-with-fish wine, and very versatile. Try it with a simple grilled fish like sea bass. Jamie Wolff
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