Juan Antonio Ponce's entry level cuvee, from 30-year-old organic and biodynamic Bobal vines in Manchuela, is light-bodied but full of intense fruit and acid — dense black raspberry, tart purple plum, and wild blueberry fruit with pronounced minerality and taut youthful tannins. This is a lifted, poised, and positively delicious natural wine at a price that encourages stockpiling. According to Ponce himself, this vintage of Clos Lojen is the best he's made and worthy of aging. Ariana Rolich
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