Victoria Torres farms her father's two hectares of vines in Fuencaliente on the western-most Canary island of La Palma, where his family has tended vines for 5 generations. Climate varies dramatically on La Palma due to multiple and sudden shifts in elevation, but Fuencaliente is high and cool. The Listán Blanco comes from a "Las Machuqueras," a single plot of un-grafted vines on crunchy volcanic picon soil, some older than 100 years (phylloxera never made it to the Canary Islands). The wine is fermented in stainless steel with native yeasts for a couple of days on the skins, and 7 months on the lees. The result is fascinating: a pale golden-bronze in the glass with distinctive aromas of wild fennel, musky papaya, stone fruit, chlorine, and a hint of diesel. The palate is broad, saline, and juicy, with demure Meyer lemon, fresh apricots, clarified butter, lime pith, and a salty/ashy mineral finish that we look forward to tasting in Canaries wines. An offbeat and transportative wine for a very fair price. Ariana Rolich
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