This invigorating dry wine from Bodegas Los Bermejos on the Canary Island of Lanzarote is made from Malvasía Volcánica. This unique local grape that is was said to be hybrid of the Malvasía Aromática and Marmajuela varieties, but in my last meeting with Ignacio of Bermejos, I learned that it might be identical with Malvasia de Sitges. Ampelography aside, this wine is a delicious miracle, from vines that are painstakingly planted at the bottom of crater-like formations molded out of the sandy black volcanic "picone" soil that coated Lanzarote after a massive eruption in the 1700s. The wine is as singular as the surroundings that give it life, with herbal, mineral, and peach pit aromas and an elegant palate of lime peels, bitter melon, tangerine, saltwater, and a prevailing ashy minerality that is redolent of the island air. Ariana Rolich
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