At the end of a dirt road called "the path of perservance" Jean-Christophe Comor produces some remarkable wines on the calcareous dolomites soils of the Sainte-Baume Mountain. Working organically with a tremendous respect for the environment, he believes his terroir is perfectly suited for age-worthy complex whites, fighting again the tsunami of technical, soulless rosés produced around him. And we believe he is right! Working with a lot of different white varieties including some old Carignan Blanc, he offers a new expression of this part of Provence. "À bouche que tu veux" (roughly translated by "to your mouth what do you want") is delicious, yet complex blend of Clairette Blanche & Rose and Vermentino, varieties Jean-Christophe is fighting for. Hand-harvested and pressed whole-cluster, the wine is partially vinified in large foudres and demi-muids, partially in inox tank than aged in enamelled inox. Fermentations are spontaneous, malo happens. The wine sees a little sulfur dioxide before bottling.
Despite being from relatively young vines, this bottle has a lot to offer today, and will in 5 to 10 years. Quite discreet on the nose, the palate is way more expressive with notes of mandarine zest, peach pit and gardenia. The upfront creaminess makes room for a poised freshness coming from the terroir and the delicate bitterness. Serve it not too cold, in a larger glass. So many pairings are possible here, from fried zucchini blossom to roasted langoustine with limequat or a fresh goat cheese (like the Brousse du Rove, a little cheese just made by the winery). 55% Vermentino, 45% Clairette. Pascaline Lepeltier.
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