Firstly, let me say that the warm 2018 vintage will be a vintage to take advantage of the value that one still finds in Santenay. The village tends to ripen late and in cool vintages can produce very lean wines. Domaine Jessiaume owns more of this Premier Cru than any other estate and theirs should be considered a benchmark. The site takes its name from the gravel and stones in the soil and as one would expect, it produces structured and mineral wines. The 2018 shows the ripe dark red and black fruit that has characterized the vintage, with raspberry, cherry and a touch of blueberry, as well as savory spices and well-judged wood. But the finish narrows, with elegant mineral notes and good precision. The vines are on average fifty five years old and the quality of material here is on full display. Sam Ehrlich
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