Domaine Lupin’s 2018 Roussette de Savoie Frangy is a knock-out at $25. From organically tended vines of Altesse on the outskirts of Frangy in Savoie. Vines are 25 years of age and planted to clay and limestone soils. Fermented in steel, with 20% going through malo . A full nose of almonds, white flowers, lemons, limes, firm yellow cherries and crushed limestone waft from the glass in hearty, saline-laced waves. The palate is pronounced, with flavors of small, crisp yellow and green apples, green tea, lemon grass, and a wonderful bitter kiss that extends well after the fruit disappears. As the wine opens, the aromas and flavors fatten and take on notes of richer, sweeter nectarines, kumquat, and apricot. The ballast of this wine is the zing of glorious acid that relaxes only slightly from the beginning to the end of the bottle. A wine to drink now, but given the amount of energy packed in here, I’d say best drinking will be in three years and last just shy of a decade. David Hatzopoulos
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