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The Hasard’s Bourgogne Blanc is made from hand-harvested and certified organic Chardonnay grown on a limestone/clay parcel in Aluze, next to Mercurey. The native-yeast fermentation lasts 10 months in barrel and only minimal SO2 is added at bottling. The 2019 is more fruit-forward on the nose, with aromas of dried mango, pear followed by ripe yellow fruits and river rocks. The palate is mineral, saline, and layered with notes of dried apricot, fennel, white flowers, and stone on a very generous finish. An excellent value white Burgundy that would pair well with oysters, cheeses, or roast chicken with herbs.
"Le Clos des Topes Bizot" is a unique spot, high on the slope in Beaune just above the 1er Cru "L'Ecu," facing east, in a terroir of clay and pebbles over limestone. Harvested by hand into small crates, slow fermentation (4 to 8 months) with wild yeasts, 15 month élevage in barrel without battonage, 10% new. The 2018 Clos de Topes Bizot was kept on the lees longer due to the ripeness of the vintage. The wine shows floral ripe white fruits, apricot and almond; the palate is rich and expressive with white fruits, pineapple, citrus and mineral flavors that continue in the long finish. This is a delicous and affordable white Burgundy to serve with lobster, shrimp, a full-flavored fish dish and white meats. David Lillie
From vines high on the slope in Beaune just above the 1er Cru L'Ecu, facing east, in a terroir of clay and pebbles over limestone. Harvested by hand into small crates, slow fermentation (4 to 8 months) with wild yeasts, 15 month élevage in barrel, 10% new. The 2017 Clos de Topes Bizot is an elegant white Burgundy, reminding me of a good Pernand-Vergelesses, showing lime-flower, pear, herbal, almond and high-toned citrus aromas with a hint of oak. The palate is dense and very mineral with wet stone, white fruit, herbal and citrus flavors with crystalline purity and terrific length. This is a a real Burgundy of terroir at a very reasonable price! David Lillie
The Chantal Lescure Meursault is from a tiny parcel called "les Pellands" on deep sandy clay soils over limestone below "Charmes Dessous." The 2018 finished its alcoholic fermentation in August 2019 and was still in barrel on the lees when tasted in January 2020. The wine shows elegant aromas, very "Meursault" with almond, pear, citrus and earth. The palate is elegant and bright with lovely minerality below the white fruits, finishing beautifully with firm acidity. This is a lovely Meursault, unblemished by excess oak, batonnage or sulfur and it's an excellent value as well. David Lillie
Julien Cruchandeau's stock is rising fast among Burgundy insiders. He has developed a reputation for thoughtful and careful work, in the vines and in the cellar, making wines that ultimately drink far above what one might expect from humble appellations.The vines are massale selections from the vineyards of Domaine de Villaine and average more than 60 years old. He vinifies a small percentage in barrel and leaves the rest in tank.
What a difference 2 kilometers makes! Bruno Dangin's Crémant de Bourgogne is made from 100% Pinot Noir from organically farmed vines in Molesme, located just beneath the southern border of Champagne's Aube.The limestone rich soils are the same as those of their pricier neighbor to the north. Boasting a fine bead and soft mousse and aromas of red fruits and autolyse, one would be hard pressed to spot the difference. The palate offers great depth, pure pinot fruit, and a suave, layered, persistent finish. This is a great value in bubbles and will grace the holiday table nicely. John McIlwain
Historically, Petit Chablis was often sneered at as something that rarely resembled Chablis. However, the leaps and bounds that have been made in the vineyards and the cellar mean that the overall quality of this humble appellation has grown exponentially in recent years. This is certainly the case at Domaine de L'Enclos. The estate is young but the Bouchard brothers have years of experience producing serious Chablis from organically farmed vineyards. While the 2018 was weightier, the 2019 is a more elegant wine. There is plenty of lemon and ripe green apple fruit and a great overall feeling of balance, with lovely acidity. The minerality is very exposed and becomes more intense as the wine sits in the glass. Excellent for the price and a terrific everyday white Burgundy. Sam Ehrlich
The 2017 Cremant from Dominique Gruhier is 65% Pinot Noir/35% Chard, farmed organically and planted on classic Kimmeridgien soils. The fruit leans towards delicate red berries, with an anchor of limestone in the mid-palate that immediately reminds one just how close Dominique is to Chablis. The bubbles are quite fine and there is no shortage of acid or freshness. An excellent value and a great sub for Champagne without paying Champagne prices. Sam Ehrlich
Lillian Duplessis considers this site as having the greatest potential within his lineup of Premier Cru vineyards. Montmains sits on the left bank of the Seine River, running parallel to several other outstanding 1er Cru sites, including Forets, Butteaux and Vaillons (as well as the heavyweight village cru Les Pargues).
With 9 hectares of vines covering 5 various premier and grand cru sites, Lillian Duplessis crafts some of the most pure and compelling Chablis we have had the pleasure of tasting. All of the vines are planted in Kimmeridgian limestone giving the wines that classic, crunchy minerality for which the region is known.
Vaugiraut is on the left bank of the Serein, south of the village of Chablis and the Grand Cru vineyards above it on the right bank of the river. The south facing amphitheater is protected from winds and exposed to the warmth of the late afternoon sun, both of which assist in ripening. This bottling from Duplessis is unique among their Premier Crus in that it sees no oak: the elevage is entirely in stainless steel.
The Paquet family is based in the Maconnais. They have nearly thirty hectares across a dozen appellations, all farmed organically and on the way to certification. This is their entry-level Chardonnay and it is delightful, full of lime and green herbs, with clear mineral tones and good freshness. There is no oak influence at all and no funny business. This is just tasty Chardonnay grown in limestone soils, perfect as we emerge from the ice and snow into Spring. Sam Ehrlich
We're extremely happy to have the wines of Guillemot-Michel back at Chambers Street! Along with Jean and Gautier Thevenet, and Julien Guillot at Vignes du Maynes, they are making white Burgundies with more depth and minerality than anything comparably priced in the Cote D'Or. The 2017 Quintaine is a gorgeous white Burgundy, showing a brilliant pale gold color and complex aromas of poached pear, almond, candied lemon, kiwi, stone and lime-flower, elegant and quite beautiful. The palate is round and dense with firm acidity, showing cool stone fruits and citrus with caramel, stone and mineral flavors. The finish is long and earthy, with chalky white fruits lingering on the palate. (At a recent tasting, the 1989 and 1990 were showing beautifully, so put a few in the cellar!) Beautiful wine - congratulations to Pierrette, Marc, Sophie and son-in-law Gautier!
The Guillemot-Michel "Une Bulle" comes from a tiny parcel of old vines on limestone with red clay, high in iron. The wine is a Pet-Nat (Methode Ancestrale) that is bottled after a short period of fermentation, leaving enough sugar in the wine for the fermentation to continue and create the desired bubbles. The wine is aged in bottle on the lees for around 18 months, then riddled and disgorged and re-bottled with a bit more "Une Bulle." The result is a very delicious aged Pet-Nat showing honeyed aromas of pear and white peach with hints of almond, marzipan and brioche. On the palate the mousse is soft and creamy with flavors of peach and quince with lime-flower and minerals and a long finish of white fruits, citrus peel and firm acidity. This is a delightful wine to sip by itself or pair with mild cheeses, patés and terrines, fruit desserts.. David Lillie
Created in 2017, this cuvee is issued from grapes in the "Champ-Rond" vineyard, vinified in amphora of 800 liters. The 65 year-old vines are grafted on "Riparia Gloire de Montpellier" an old root-stock obtained in 1880, giving very low yields with magnificent small grapes, of a deep gold color. The Retour a la Terre presents the exotic notes typical of the domaine with an extra dimension of expression due to the respiration of the amphora. The small grapes of "Champ-Rond" ripen beautifully without a high degree of alcohol - they are picked on the last day of the harvest, and the elevage in amphora gives the wine a great purity. The wine shows elegant floral, white fruit, apricot, lemon and stone aromas. The palate is round, dense and silky with fabulous length. This is a superb white Burgundy that is delicious now and will cellar beatifully for fifteen to twenty years. Highly recommended!
Camille Thiriet has made a name for herself in a very short period of time. Along with her partner Matt, whom she met while both working for Nicolas Potel at Roche de Bellene, she has created a tiny négoce dedicated to making serious wines. There are no grand appellations here, just fruit from farmers doing extraordinary work in the vineyards. The 2019 Cuvee Confidentielle is sourced from vines just outside Chablis - in fact, the parcel is planted on the far side of the Grand Cru slope. This is made in a decidely Cote D'Or style, with the round white fruit and crisp texture that is the hallmark of the outstanding 2019 vintage. Aged in about twenty percent new oak, this is stylish, elegant white Burgundy that will be excellent now or in five years. Sam Ehrlich
From vines planted in 1937 in clay and limestone, this is an Aligote of terrific structure and density, with aromatics of lemon pith and a chalky dustiness that is reminiscent of clapping blackboard erasers. Like the Fournier, there is real power in this wine, with incredible mineral depth. A terrific wine, with excellent potential for aging and generally a benchmark for Aligote in the Cote D'Or. Sam Ehrlich
About a kilometer or two northwest of the Beaune 1er Crus, La Grande Chatelaine is a cooler site on the Montagne de Beaune with soils comprised of gravel and clay over limestone. Stone fruit and pear skin, white flowers and wet stone on the nose. Bright and fresh aromatically. The mid-weight palate is racy but full and dense due to the low yields of 2019, with fresh orchard fruit and lemon oil flavors, dancing astride sapid herbal notes with a clinging stoniness on the long, mouthwatering, expansive finish. Serve wth seared scallops, halibut or other full-flavored fish. This is lovely ripe and vibrant Chardonnay from a unique vineyard site - drink over the next 5 to 8 years.
Jean-Marie Chaland owns two estates in Viré (Macon), Domaine Sainte Barbe and Domaine des Chazelles, both certified organic since 2006. The Sainte Barbe "la Perriere" is made from 35 year-old grapes from a half-hectare parcel near Viré on clay/limestone soils, never treated with herbicides. The grapes are hand-harvested and vinified with wild yeasts, the wine ages for 18 months, half in barrel, have in cuve inox. The 2017 shows pretty aromas of pear, apricot, lime flower and stone. There is nice richness on the palate, which is supple and elegant with chalky white fruits, a bit of nectarine, verbena and a hint of oak, with firm acidity, silky fruit and mineral notes in the long finish. This is a stylish white Burgundy that will accompany any full-flavored fish dish, chicken in sauce and mild cheeses, and it will age nicely for 5 to 8 years.
Carved from vineyards once owned by the Benedictine Abbey of Cluny and farmed organically by Julien Guillot's family since 1954, Clos Vignes du Maynes is one of the most distinctive growers in Burgundy. Aragonite comes from 40- to 80-year-old Chardonnay vines high on the slope, on thin soils of clay, crystallized limestone, and laced with other minerals. This wine is incredibly aromatic upon opening with aromas of golden pear, green apple, apricot, white grapefruit, honeysuckle, and bergamot; there is a hint of earthy heather honey and butterscotch. On the palate it is quite rich and luscious, in this warm low-yielding vintage, and much more tropical and salty than in years past. In fact, if tasted blind, I could see this being mistaken for a great Chardonnay from the Jura as it has fantastic acidity, and is beautifully textured, long, and mineral. On day two the aromas have softened a bit, and the palate has gained an added savory note that contributes to a still stunningly long finish. The 2018 Aragonite is not to be missed.
From a 1.5 hectare parcel of 50+ year-old massale selection vines on clay/limestone soils rich in iron, in this excellent 1er cru vineyard at the foot of the slope in Beaune. (Near Pommard and below "Les Vignes Franches" and the "Clos des Mouches") 2018 is a great vintage for the Chantal Lescure "Chouacheux" which shows very floral aromas of ripe, fresh red and black fruits, with hints of brown spice, citrus zest and earth. There is ripe, sappy, chalky fruit on the palate which is silky and elegant with raspberry, red currant and cherry fruit, really lovely and very long - backed by firm acidity and the ever-present core of minerality found in the Chantal Lescure wines. Quite delicious now, this beautiful Chouacheux is highly recommended and should be best 2024 - 2035+. David Lillie
"Le Clos des Topes Bizot" is a unique spot with vines planted in 1960, high on the slope in Beaune just above the 1er Cru "L'Ecu," facing east, in a terroir of clay and pebbles over limestone. The grapes from this high elevation vineyard are harvested late and undergo a short pre-fermentation maceration, aging is in two and three year-old barrels. The 2018 shows high-toned aromas of ripe black cherry and red currant fruit with violet, brown spice, earth and citrus, quite elegant. The palate is dense and earthy with sappy black cherry and black raspberry - intensely mineral with firm acidity, earth and black fruits that linger in the long finish. This is a quite elegant, beautifully balanced and "mineral" Burgundy at a very reasonable price, that will benefit from a few hours open or three to five years of cellaring. David Lillie
The Chantal Lescure Volnay is from 50+ year-old vines on sandy clay soils over limestone. Fermentation is with wild yeasts in cuve inox followed by 18 months in barrel, approximately 20% of which are new (500L), bottled without fining or filtration.The wine shows a bright deep red/garnet color with black cherry, blackberry and red currant aromas, quite floral and elegant with complex hints of earth, brown spice and tea. With aeration, the palate shows a round, velvety, chalky texture backed by firm acidity with violet, plum, cherry and strawberry fruit, mint, bitter chocolate and earth that continue in the long, sappy finish. This is a lovely "village" Volnay that is delicious now, but decant if possible, this will really sing in three to five years and until 2030+. David Lillie
Sourced from several parcels spread across the village's diverse soils and climates, this is a serious village wine. It's marked by raspberry and darker berries like black cherry as well as baking spices and a touch of hoisin in the mid-palate. There is good weight here and enough acidity to suggest that this will age well for at least five to eight years. Another very good value.
Was $104.99Tuvilains is a recent addition to the lineup at the estate. It sits much further south and just below Pertuisots on the slope. The dense clay in the soil is rich in iron oxide and makes sturdy structured wines. This is the yardstick for extraction levels these days at the domaine. The 2018 is certainly squared-shouldered in its mouthfeel but once again it shows plenty of pure and bright red fruit and the finish shows a lovely mineral coolness. This may take a couple of years to really come together but will be delicious with a little time in a decanter and should age very well. Sam Ehrlich
Honest Burgundy at this price is an increasingly rare bird these days. From two vineyards in Santenay with EcoCert certification, the 2018 is full and round upon opening, with juicy raspberry and black cherry fruit, baking spices and a touch of cola. But with air, it gains tension and elegance and the Burgundy minerality becomes more apparent. This is very satisfying and will likely improve, but why wait? Bottled under screwcap. Sam Ehrlich
Ludovic Bonnardot runs his family domaine a few miles east of Beaune. His mother worked with natural wine forefather Jules Chauvet in Beaujolais. Today he farms his family vineyards organically (with certification) and makes wine with very little to no sulfur. The results are generally excellent. This '19 Hautes Cotes is a case in point. Fermented with 50% whole clusters and no apparent oak influence, this is marked by vivid red cherry and strawberry fruit, clove and star anise. The texture is pretty and buoyed by the electric acidity that is the hallmark of the 2019 vintage. Recommended. Sam Ehrlich
Jean-Claude Rateau has a large parcel in the 1er Cru Les Bressandes on a steep slope facing east with pebbly clay/limestone soils, conducted in biodynamic farming since 1979. The soil is warm and well-drained giving ripe, structured wines. There is a 21-day cuvaison with manual cap-punching followed by 18 months in old barrels.Even with the minimal extraction practiced at the estate, the 2018 Bressandes shows a dense red/black color and lush aromas of ripe black cherry and blackberry, quite deep with sous-bois, violet, graphite and citrus. The palate is dense, elegant and chalky with blackberry, earth, bitter chocolate and minerals with terrific length of black fruits, earth and juicy acidity. Hints of iron, blood and roast meat indicate a very interesting aging potential for this wine. Given the weight and ripeness of the vintage, the wine still seems balanced and frames the copious fruit in ample acidity and tannin. This is a beautiful wine that will give great pleasure in its youth and should be a superb mature wine as well, with a long life ahead of it... David Lillie
From vines grown in the calcareous clay soils of Les Reversées premier cru toward the bottom of the hill in the center of the slope by Les Teurons. This is a bit more delicate and lower in alcohol than Rateau's "Bressandes" but still quite deep and generous in 2018 showing ripe black cherry, boysenberry, notes of cherry pit and earth on the nose. The palate is quite dense but still with nice brightness with ripe black fruits, hints of iodine and iron and soil beneath supple structure. Succulent acidity and savory mineral notes offset the ripeness and lend energy and drive on a rich, palate-coating finish which is very long with elegant black raspberry and red currant fruit. The purity of fruit and earth notes are finely balanced - this is an excellent Burgundy for the mid-term. A fine pairing with braised chicken thighs with mustard, tarragon, and shallots. A great value from the pioneer of biodynamic Burgundy!
Jean-Claude Rateau makes this lovely, light-bodied Burgundy from a small parcel of 50 year-old vines in AOC Hautes Côtes de Beaune, certified biodynamic, "lyre ouverte" pruning. The 2020 shows a bright red/garnet color, with very pretty aromas of tart cherry and raspberry with hints of rose, spice and violet. The palate is light but sapid, and beautifully flavored with bright cherry, red currant and raspberry fruit supported by fresh acidity. There is excellent length of berry fruits, mineral flavors and citrusy acids in the finish. This is an elegant Pinot Noir to serve cool with chicken and game birds, fish in sauce, grilled pork and mild cheeses - just delicious! David Lillie
Vincent worked for years at Domaine Lecheneault and struck out on his own in just 2006. His holding are tiny, a common problem for new producers in Burgundy, and he produces maybe 10,000 bottles between half a dozen appellations. All the vines are certified organic, there are no new barrels in the cellar and the sulfur additions are extremely low. This old-vine bottling of Savigny-les-Beaune comes from two parcels: "Les Connardises," planted in 1927, and "Aux Petits Liards," planted in 1954. While this has the strong bones and spine that one associates with Savigny, it is nonetheless distinctly in Ledy's style, with intense aromatic power and a lithe, understated quality. The fruit is all red berries, bright and crisp. Overall this is quite elegant for the level and worth considering for mid-term cellaring as well as drinking immediately. Sam Ehrlich
Apparently Les Vallerots 1er Cru is a near monopoly of Chantal Lescure on a steep slope in the combe above "Vaucrains" on very shallow stony soils over the limestone at 260m altitude. Aged in approx 30% new oak by Francis Miquel. The nose is initially closed and tight with deep red fruit aromas emerging with notes of black raspberry, plum, cherry pit and a hint of anise.The palate shows deep, dense red fruits with great elegance and energy, a superb combination of fruit and terroir. This will need a long decant if drinking now, best to hold 3 - 5 years then enjoy until 2035+ David Lillie
Pierre Duroché is rapidly becoming an A-list address in Gevrey-Chambertin. Not only does he have terrific holdings but the wines are a model of understatement - carefully farmed and made without any bells and whistles. These Gevrey vines came to him from his wife Marianne's family. The fruit is completely de-stemmed, fermented with natural yeasts and aged in no more than fifteen percent new oak.
From two small parcels in "Aux Eletois" (below Grand Cru Griottes) and "les Epointures" (below 1er Cru Clos Prieur) on the more fine and aromatic side of Gevrey. Ruby robe. The nose offers an intriguing contrast between floral aromas and gamy, sauvage notes. For every rose petal, there’s a contrasting earth tone. The tension is compelling. On the palate ripe cherry and raspberry flavors are underlain by a pungent stoniness on a mid-weight, faintly tannic, but fresh, finish. This is delicious, if brambly, now but should gain in suavity with time in the bottle. I’d choose to pair this with something autumnal and savory. Pigéon? Pintade? Daube? John McIlwain
From two small parcels in "Aux Eletois" (below Grand Cru Griottes) and "les Epointures" (below 1er Cru Clos Prieur) on the more fine and aromatic side of Gevrey. The 2018 shows a bright red/garnet color with high-toned aromas of ripe black cherry, black raspberry and red currant with rose, herbal and citrus notes, quite pretty and not over-ripe. The palate shows terrific density of complex red and black fruits with hints of licorice, sous-bois and minerals while retaining a lovely lightness and freshness, with bright acidity under the long vibrant red fruits and mineral flavors that linger in the finish. Grreat fun to drink now, best to wait 5 to 8 years when it will really sing, then drink until 2035 - 2040. David Lillie
From 10 to 50 year-old vines grown on limestone soils (Middle Jurassic!) in the commune of Aluze, Cotes Chalonnaise, certified organic since 1999. This is a lovely Bourgogne Rouge, showing the ripeness of the 2019 vintage, but in a medium-bodied, balanced and bright style that is quite delicious! Vivid aromas of black cherry, raspberry, violet and pepper, with a bright palate of blackberry and spicy red-currant/cherry fruit framed in mineral flavors and firm acidity. Delicious now served cool, it will benefit from decanting or a few years in the cellar as well. DL
Made from Gamay Petit Grains planted in 1953, grown on a limestone parcel high in magnesium, in the Clos des Vignes du Maynes in Cruzille, organic since 900 AD (!), now certified biodynamic. The energetic Julien Guillot vinifies his reds without sulfur or additives of any kind, producing complex, mineral, elegant wines that transcend their appellation. The 2018s here are extraordinary, showing the elegance, purity and balance typical of the estate with the wonderful ripeness of the vintage. The wine shows gorgeous red and black fruit aromas with cranberry, earth, stone and musk and hints of mint, chocolate and spice. The palate is bright and silky with raspberry/strawberry fruit, citrus, stone and earthy flavors, that continue on the very long mineral finish. Always one of the greatest Gamays produced anywhere, the 2018 Manganite is a young wine that will benefit from decanting or five to fifteen years in the cellar. Highly recommended! DL
Made from Gamay Petit Grains planted in 1953, grown on a limestone parcel high in magnesium, in the Clos des Vignes du Maynes in Cruzille, organic since 900 AD (!), now certified Biodynamic. The energetic Julien Guillot vinifies his reds without sulfur or additives of any kind, producing complex, mineral, elegant wines that transcend their appellation. The 2019s here are extraordinary, showing the elegance, purity and balance typical of the estate with the wonderful density and ripeness of the vintage. The wine shows gorgeous red and black fruit aromas with cranberry, earth, stone and musk and hints of mint, chocolate and spice. The palate is bright and intense with blackberry, citrus, stone and earthy flavors, that continue on the very long mineral finish. Always one of the greatest Gamays produced anywhere, the 2019 Manganite is a young wine that will benefit from decanting or five to fifteen years in the cellar. Highly recommended!