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As much as a rich meal such a Thanksgiving makes one think of richer, more powerful reds, one should never be afraid to use this occasion to embrace the idea of WWWP (white wine whenever possible). Bright acid and minerality will cleanse the palate and can lift the spirits. Organic Burgundy grower Henri and Gilles Buisson produce one of our favorites from their beautiful vines in St. Romain overlooking the Côte de Beaune. The cooler vineyard sites produce nervy white Burgundy which has a great tension between effusive citrus peel and floral perfume and a distinctly mineral palate. The Absolu bottling is made completely without SO2 which lends even more aromatic purity, and greater clarity to the fruit. John McIlwainThe Buisson family is constantly experimenting in the vineyard and the cellar, pushing ever closer towards the goal of not using any chemicals or additives (pesticides, herbicides, sulfur, etc.) during any part of the winemaking process. Obtaining organic certification by ECOCERT in 2009 was a big step in the right direction, and their addition of the two Absolu cuvées to their current lineup of wines is a marked commitment to their efforts. The Absolu Saint-Romain Blanc is vinified the same way as their other cuvées but forgoes the addition of sulfur at bottling. This truly adds another dimension to an already thoughtful and delicious wine giving it an energy and texture that only comes from naturally made wines. Vivid fruit and nut aromas mingle with a delicate spiciness on the nose and the palate is sharp, a touch salty, and very fresh. It’s not often you are able to taste a sulfured wine alongside its sans soufre companion so that makes for a fantastic experiment! Tim Gagnon
From Chardonnay grown on an excellent limestone/clay parcel in Aluze, next to Mercurey. Certified organic, hand-harvested, low yields, very long (10 month) wild-yeast fermentation in barrel, bottled by gravity, unfiltered. This is an outstanding Chardonnay of terroir thanks to the great farming and vinifications at Champs de l'Abbaye. Subtle aromas of stone, white fruits, lemon peel and herbs with a bit of new oak. The palate is intense and crystalline with strong mineral flavors, white fruits, citrus, spice and oak. (We are reminded of the Bourgogne Chitry by De Moor) The finish is dense and long with citrus, pear and stone - this is a serious glass of white Burgundy that will accompany oysters, grilled fish, roast chicken and much more. Not for lovers of Napa Chardonnay....
From a 1/2 hectare parcel of 35 year-old vines in Rully on clay/limestone soils. Aromas of dried pear, herbs, citrus and stone with lime flower and new oak. Intense stone and mineral flavors typical to Rully on the palate with citrus and white fruits. Fabulous stony finish. This is an austere and elegant white Burgundy to drink now in its scintillating youth with oysters, grilled seafod, chicken and goat cheeses. Hold 5 to 10 years for a mature experience.
Comprised of fruit from Bressandes (2/3) which per Claude de Nicolay lends richness and Chaumes, located beneath Les Pougets (1/3) which lends a degree of “saltiness.” The 2014 Corton Blanc shows a lovely balance between power and elegance. Aromatically it shows yellow flowers, orange peel and hints of sea spray and wet stone. The palate displays pretty flavors of stone fruit, Meyer lemon, and apple overlying an overt, if not overwhelming minerality on a medium weight (for Corton) palate. This shows plenty of energy and drive, if not mass, on a long, detailed, and mouthwatering finish. John McIlwain
As easy as it is to forget the quality of Auxey-Duresses Blanc, it's just as easy to overlook the sensational quality of Domaine Lafouge. The Auxey-Duresses Blanc Les Hautés (from the lieu dit situated next to Les Vireuils in Meursault) displays a fine balance of white floral aromas (acacia and honeysuckle) with white orchard fruits on the nose. The palate is racy and mineral with pear and nectarine fruit vying for attention with a good degree of mineral cut. This is pretty and a fine value in white Burgundy. John McIlwain
The 2014 Magnien Aligoté is a bright and lively wine, at 11.5% alcohol, showing herbal, lemon-lime, melon and almond aromas, with pear, mirabelle, stone and ctrus flavors on the fresh, very dry palate. Serve with vegetable soups, fish dishes, quiches and mild cheeses - or make the perfect Kir with 1/5 Creme de Cassis.
Another cracking 2014, Rapet's Combottes has bright aromas of white flowers, honeysuckle, Meyer lemon, citrus pith. The mid-weight palate offers layers of stone fruit, chalk, lemon peel, and quinine, which persist on the long, lithe finish. This is great Combottes and a bargain in white Burgundy. John McIlwain
Jean-Claude Rateau makes lovely wines in the Hautes Côtes de Beaune in his east-facing vineyard of clay/limestone and marne soils. Quite racy and bright even in 2015, the wine shows subtle aromas of lemon,almond, stone, pear and apple. Intense, very mineral palate with pear, citrus and stone flavors and terrific length. Decant or open in advance if drinking now, serve with oysters, grilled seafoods, roast chicken and mild cheeses or cellar for 5 to 8 years. This is a real Chardonnay of terroir and a great value!
Domaine de Roally is one of the great estates of the Macon. The original owner/grower was Henri Goyard, who made old-fashioned Chardonnays with a bit of residual sugar, from his superb organically-tended estate on a limestone ridge overlooking the Saone Valley. Discovered by Joe Dressner in 1987, we made a number of visits there until Goyard's retirement in 2000. Sometimes the juice would still be fermenting after 18 months in tank, and a 1989 tasted in 1999 was simply sensational. Gautier Thevenet of the Domaine Bongran took over in 2000 and has happily kept up the quality and style of Goyard. The 2014 is a fabulous white Burgundy, showing beautiful aromas of ripe pear and apple, lime-flower, lemon zest and honeysuckle, really lovely! There is fabulous density on the palate with pear, citrus, butter and exotic fruit backed by very firm acidity and saline minerals. Gorgeous now, it will age beautifully, perhaps best in 2026? DL
Also made from 100% Chardonnay with zero dosage, this wine spends a full 27 months on the lees before disgorgement. The result is a broad and powerful wine with tropical fruit, green apple, pineapple stalk, orange peel, and a hint of spearmint and lime blossom on the nose. The palate is rich and lush with mango, mandarin orange, and a hint of spicy green walnut coming forward, balanced by a dense mineral core. In fact, it actually reminds me of some of my favorite Champagnes (but for half the price). Céline and Laurent don’t make much of this wine and we are thrilled to have it in magnum size! An elegant but no-fuss wine that should always have a place on your dinner table or at your New Year's Eve party, it would pair well with creamy poultry dishes, whole-roasted fish, or soft, tangy cheeses. Tim Gagnon
Julien Guillot's 2012 Cremant Sainte Genevieve is simply brilliant, showing extraordinary aromas of red fruits, spiced pear and blood orange with hints of cinnamon. The palate is creamy and full, with pear, red currant, honey, stone and brown spice with fabulous length. This is a beautiful living wine from soils that have never been treated with herbicides, pesticides or modern fertilizers. Highly recommended. ** All fruit is from the Clos (25% Pinot Noir, 25% Gamay, 50% Chardonnay).
From a vineyard first planted by the Abbey of Cluny in 900 AD, acquired by the Guillot family in 1952 and always tended with organic methods. On thin clay soils over limestone, organic since 1954, biodynamic since 1998. This is a complex bottle of Chardonnay combining ripeness with firm acidity and great mineral expression, definitely not "typical" of the Mâcon. Aromas of lemon confit, pear, dried herbs, stone, lime-flower and honey. Ripe pear, apple, almond and saline acidity on the palate with pear, citrus and chalky minerals lingering on the finish. A beautiful wine from the living soils at the Clos des Vignes du Maynes, Biodynamic farming, minimal SO2. Serve with full-flavored fish dishes, farm chicken, goat and comté cheeses.
This is a superb, subtle and very mineral Chardonnay from a replanted parcel at the very top of the Clos, abandoned since 1896, with thin clay soils rich in iron over limestone. A great terroir, never chemically treated and worked in biodynamic farming by Alain and Julien Guillot. The 2014 "les Chassagnes" is a beautiful wine! Yields of 18 hl/ha, giving a racy, stony wine with hints of white fruits, spice and honey, the palate is silky and crystalline - all mineral with subtle citrus and white fruits, very long and elegant. Highly recommended! David Lillie
Carved from vineyards once owned by the Benedictine Abbey of Cluny and farmed organically by Julien Guillot's family since 1954, Clos Vignes du Maynes is one of the most distinctive growers in Burgundy. Aragonite comes from 40- to 80-year-old vines high on the slope, on thin soils of clay, crystallized limestone, and laced with other minerals. This wine is incredibly aromatic upon opening with aromas of golden pear, green apple, apricot, white grapefruit, honeysuckle, and bergamot; there is a hint of earthy heather honey and butterscotch. On the palate it is quite rich and luscious, and much more tropical and salty than in years past. In fact, if tasted blind, I could see this being mistaken for a great Chardonnay from the Jura as it has fantastic acidity, and is beautifully textured, long, and mineral. On day two the aromas have softened a bit, and the palate has gained an added savory note that contributes to a still stunningly long finish. The 2015 Aragonite is not to be missed. Tim Gagnon
The cuvée Milliane Bourgonge rouge from grower Gabriel Billard offers everyday value in red Burgundy combining fruit with both substantial structure and complexity. Earthy rather than overtly fruity on the nose, it shows damp soil, red florals and a whiff of leather followed by faint cherries. Dark red fruit is dense on the palate and high-toned with fuji apples, bing cherries, and raspberry along with woody herbs. Quite tannic and aromatically tight when freshly opened, the structure softens and the fruit becomes more prominent with an hour or so in a decanter. I served it with braised chicken legs and mushrooms brightened with lemon and spring herbs but it would be excellent with cedar plank salmon or a burger right off the grill. Open early and enjoy! - Andy Paynter
From .38 HA biodynamically farmed vines averaging over 40 years old, high on the hillside of Corton. Traditionally the most powerful and stern of the stable of red Corton lieu-dits at Chandon de Briailles. 80% whole cluster fermentation. There’s a fair bit of reduction to this initially, but with a long decant this recedes to reveal aromas plummy black fruit, animale funk, black tea, and fresh-turned earth. In the mouth ripe red/black fruit flavors mingle with pungent minerality on the vibrant mid-weight palate. There is good sap and firm, but ripe tannins supporting the fruit on the long, substantial finish. This has real class and should be sensational after 10-15 years in the cellar. John McIlwain
While the jewel of the premier crus of Pernand-Vergelesses, like Les Lavières, the Ile de Vergelesses vineyard suffered substantially from the hail of 2013. Another in a series of what Claude de Nicolay refers to as “virtual vintages” only half the normal crop was harvested in the 2014 vintage. In light of the vintage character, fermentation was 40% whole cluster with a somewhat shorter elevage to emphasize the beautifully pure fruit. Here the nose shows a blend of black fruits, wood smoke, baking spices, and faint hints of anise. The mid-weight palate features blackberry, cassis, and blood orange flavors giving way to a pungent, nearly saline minerality, which carries thru on the persistent, sapid finish. This has impeccable balance, if not the power of more blockbuster vintages. This is attractive and has plenty of drive and detail to frame the pure, pretty fruit. John McIlwain
After serious devastation by hail in 2013 when Les Lavières was not bottled (but made into something akin to a vin doux naturel, which has yet to be bottled) 2014 produced a lovely, if substantially reduced crop from the cru. 20% whole cluster fermentation with no chaptalization and bottled at 12.3% abv. The 2014 Les Lavières is pretty and detailed, rather than powerful. The aromas are cool-toned and red-fruited, with hints of strawberry and wild cherry. The racy, supple palate has flavors of red raspberry, cherry, and pomegranate supported by fine, ripe tannins and bright acidity. And while this is no heavyweight, the purity of the fruit and the lively energy makes this a pleasure to taste and the structure certainly bodes well for mid-term ageability for this agréable à boire Burgundy. John McIlwain
Certified organic and farmed with biodynamic methods, Domaine Chevrot is one of the gems of Maranges. The lieu-dit Sur le Chêne is a south-facing plot on gravelly limestone on the eastern side of the appellation. The fruit from the 50-60 year old vines is hand-harvested, fermentation is 50% whole cluster, and the wine aged for 11 months in 15% new oak. The 2014 has aromas of red fruits, black tea, and orange peel with hints of smoke and spice. The medium weight palate balances red cherry and raspberry flavors with earthy notes and medium-grained tannins on a medium long finish. This offers a nice balance of fruit and Maranges minerality at an affordable price point. Decant now before serving or cellar for 5-9 years. -John McIlwain
La Chapelle is a "climat" within Les Breterins and Reugne, on the steep slope of la Montagne de Bourdon, facing south/southeast. The vines are well-placed in mid-slope and are mostly sixty years-old, giving the most "generous" of the three Lafouge premier crus. The 2014 "La Chapelle" shows a bright red/garnet color and lovely aromas of strawberry and tart cherry - very floral and bright with hints of citrus and earth. There is excellent ripeness on the palate with chalky raspberry and cherry fruit, citrus and mineral flavors - quite elegant and very long with firm acidity, bright red fruits and minerals in the finish. Delicious now served a bit cool with coq au vin, blanquette de veau or rabbit, probably best from 2020 to 2030 - kudos to Jean and Gilles Lafouge for another lovely "La Chapelle!" DL
This is one of our favorite, if somewhat unknown, estates in Burgundy. Jean Lafouge and his son Gilles make classic, balanced, beautiful Burgundies at affordable prices and their village level Auxey-Duresses is always lovely and a great value. The 2014 is slightly riper than usual with lovely aromas of strawberry and tart cherry, with violet, rose, citrus and spice. Medium-bodied, with citrusy red fruits on the palate with great balance and refreshing acidity, the wine shows hints of earth and mineral that will develop nicely with time. Lovely now, especially if decanted well in advance, and a great pairing with poultry, white meats and mild cheeses. This has the weight and structure to cellar well, best perhaps in 5 to 8 years. David Lillie
Les Chanlins, a premier cru bordering Volnay, expresses the prettier side of Pommard. A continuation of Volnay Pitures (formerly known as Volnay Chanlins until 2006), the vineyard is steep with more limestone and pebbles rather than clay, producing wines which are typically more generous than backwards. "Chanlins is one of the most inherently elegant terroirs in Pommards, and the style of the vineyard dovetails with the Lafouge style of winemaking" writes John Gilman. From a small parcel of old vines, the Lafouge 2014 Chanlins shows beautiful aromas of bright red fruits - raspberry, tart cherry and wild strawberry - with earth, citrus, rose, brown spice and game. Lovely tart red fruits on the palate with firm acidity and intense chalky minerality that coats the palate on the long finish. This is a lovely, pure and elegant old-fashioned Burgundy - delicious now with its bright, youthful fruit, best probably 2022 to 2032. DL
"This is absoutely the heartland of Beaune, with the richest, most structured and longest-lived wines of the appellation" – Inside Burgundy. The Rapet's tiny parcel of Les Grèves is all old-vines on a steep section giving beautifully aromatic wines that have great tannic structure for aging. This is particularly outstanding in 2011, with deep, elegant strawberry, black cherry and earth aromas. The palate is medium-bodied, with superb red and black fruits, terrific intensity and length with stone and fruit lingering. Not a "big" wine but a real wine of terroir with great structure and balance. Hold for 6 to 8 years, drink until 2030.
(The 2014s have arrived - take advantage of this discounted price on the last of our 2013s! ) From 50-year-old vines in Sur-les-Grèves in the heart of the Beaune 1er crus. Like many of the 2013 Burgundies, the Rapet Beaune Grèves 1er cru is a wine of delicacy and purity of fruit, rather than power. But oh, what fruit! The nose shows dark-fruited with aromas of black cherry liqueur, blackberry, and notes of black tea, tree bark, and crushed herbs. The mid-weight palate displays more pure fruit flavors of black cherry, wild blackberry, and a pretty sense of ripeness which is balanced by a good deal of mineral cut and ripe tannins. Despite a somewhat lighter profile, this finish is quite persistent and builds, While this will improve in bottle, with air this is quite enjoyable at the moment and well-suited to lighter pork dishes, roast chicken, and even heartier fish dishes such as monkfish or skate and mushrooms in a red wine reduction which cry out for a visit to our friends at Blue Moon Fish. - John McIlwain
From old vines on fairly deep iron-rich soils south of the village in three different parcels, Les Boutieres, Les Citernes and Les Combes. Always a ripe, powerful wine, the 2014 Rapet Aloxe-Corton is well-structured for aging and beautifully balanced with firm acidity and the pretty fruit of this vintage that was saved by ample sunshine from mid-August into October. The wine shows elegant aromas of ripe black cherry and blackberry with hints of violet and earth. On the palate there is an intense fusion of mineral flavors with ripe blackberry and red currant fruit, sappy and long, framed in firm acidity and ample tannin. This is a big, age-worthy Aloxe that will be quite beautiful when mature, best perhaps 2020 - 2030 and beyond. Quite enjoyable now in its intense youth, decant well in advance or open the night before... David Lillie
Upon opening Rapet's Grèves is a bit circumspect: initially showing a lot of hedge fruit, wood smoke, soil notes. Nose and palate open to reveal dark fruits, a bit of bramble, sous-bois, spice, cherry pit, and mineral spice. Some structure here, but with fine poise. There's a lovely sweetness within the tannins which bodes well for some time in the cellar to allow all the elements to knit. Near term patience should be well rewarded. Decant now or cellar for 3-5 years and enjoy over the next 10 years. Made a fine pairing with a salad of frisée, duck confit, toasted pecans, and a sherry vinaigrette. John McIlwain
Ile des Vergelesses is certainly one of the best premier cru vineyards in Burgundy - a perfectly exposed mid-slope vineyard on limestone and iron-rich soils, steep enough for ideal drainage, producing wines that age beautifully for 15 to 20 years - considered by many to be grand cru quality. The 2014s from Vincent Rapet are lovely, beautifully balanced wines. The 2014 Ile des Vergelesses shows very bright perfume of wild strawberry, black raspberry, rose, pepper and licorice. The palate is very dense with elegant, chalky red fruits that coat the palate. This should develop beautifully - it's perfectly balanced at 13% alcohol with firm acidity - well structured for aging. Fun to taste now, especially if decanted or opened the night before, probably best 2022 - 2035. David Lillie
From vines grown in the calcareous clay soils of Les Reversées premier cru toward the bottom of the hill in the center of the slope by Les Teurons. The 2008 shows the cool-toned precision of the vintage. The nose displays dusty black cherry and hedge fruit aromas with notes of herbs and wood smoke. The palate is overtly mineral and savory, with complex soil notes and crushed herbs giving way to more cherry fruit, red currant, orange peel, iron and spice on a mid-weight and persistent finish. This still has a bit of structure to resolve, but it is intriguingly sapid, and satisfyingly earthy. Best now with a decant, better still in 3-5 years. This would pair beautifully with hanger steak and shallots, pasta with wild mushrooms, or roasted guinea hen. John McIlwain
From a steep clay/limestone slope facing east in the 1er Cru Les Bressandes, this is an old fashioned wine of terroir. It's subtle on the nose, but smells elegantly perfumed and structured. On the palate, dried fruit, herbs, and earth. This is not a tough wine, rather finessed in fact without overly ripe tannins, but it is a serious wine, and one that stands out amongst the more red-fruit driven 2015s. Perhaps due to how hot 2011 was early on (it was one of about 6 recorded years since the 1700s when harvest began in August in Burgundy), the fruit here is mature, and quite developed, but balances perfectly with the earthiness and mineral qualities of the wine. It's in a great place now, as it really reminds us of aged Burgundy, but it will be even better when it IS aged Burgundy! We'd recommend drinking now or holding 5-10 years.
Jean-Claude Rateau's domain has been Biodynamic since 1979 and produces lovely light-bodied, old fashioned Burgundies. The 2014 Beaune Les Prévoles (a lieu-dit below 1er Cru Chouacheux and les Tuvilains) shows beautiful aromas of cherry and berry fruits with rose, blood orange and brown spice. The palate is chalky, ripe and sapid while remaining light and fresh with berry fruits and tart citrusy acids. This develops nicely with aeration, becoming more supple and round, and finishes with stone, mineral and ripe fruits. Serve this delicious wine a bit cool with any mild chicken or white meat dish and goat cheeses, morbier, tomme de savoie. This should age nicely, best perhaps 2020 - 2026.
Located toward the bottom of the slope beneath Beaune Grèves and adjacent to Les Cents Vignes, Clos des Mariages is a mix of young and very old vines planted in clay and limestone soils. The 2015 expresses the prettier character of Beaune, with lovely wild strawberry, raspberry, and spice aromas giving way to notes of turned earth. The silky mid-weight palate shows sour cherry, wild raspberry, brambles, black tea, and chalky minerality on a long, supple, layered finish. There is a good sense of freshness, energy, and sap here. And while this is generous with its fruit at present, the balance is there for mid-term aging. Perfect for grilled pork medallions or braised chicken in mustard sauce. John McIlwain
From a small parcel of 50 year-old vines in AOC Hautes Côtes de Beaune, certified biodynamic, "lyre ouverte" pruning. Lovely light garnet color; subtle, delicate aromas of red fruits and flowers - quite complex and pretty with good ripeness in this excellent vintage - raspberry, tart cherry and blackberry. The palate is light but full-flavored and lovely with pure ripe red fruits, finishing with bright acidity and saline minerals. This is a subtle and delicious glass of Burgundy, at only 12% alcohol even in 2015 - enjoy now served cool or wait 5 to 8 years for a mature experience.
From vines averaging 40 years old from the lieux-dits Bussières, Chardannes, Les Herbues and Les Gamaires. Certified biodynamic. Domaine Arlaud's 2014 Chambolle-Musigny shows plenty of high-toned red fruit on the nose with aromas of pomegranate, wild cherry, and strawberry with hints of wood smoke and floral notes. On the sappy, mid-weight palate, pure red fruit flavors are underlain by a pungent chalky minerality which persists through on the long, fresh, tangy finish. This is classically Chambolle: stylish and pretty with good depth. Give this 3-5 years and enjoy for the next 10-15. John McIlwain
When it comes to Marsannay, Domaine Bart's selection of crus is an embarrassment of riches. Au Champ Salomon, one of their best, is located in a prime spot on the mid-slope, producing wines which marry power with elegance and longevity. The grapes from 35-year-old plus vines are hand harvested, fermented with native yeasts, aged for 18 months in barrel of which only 30% are new. The 2014 is another lovely expression. The nose offers cool-toned aromas of red and black cherry, red plum, brambles, and hints of cedar evolving to show dark soil notes. On the full-bodied and structured (in terms of Marsannay) palate, flavors of red and black stone fruit dominate with wild cherry and plum, giving way to grilled meat and earthy notes on a long, succulent, and persistent finish. There is a deft interplay between the pure fruit, tangy acid, and tannins which should evolve to show greater complexity still with 5-7 years in the cellar and beyond. This is not only a splendid 2014, but a great value in Burgundy. John McIlwain
This excellent east-facing vineyard on the upper slope in Marsannay has shallow soils loaded with marine fossils and gives a light-bodied aromatic wine. The vines average about 40 to 50 years-old, a mix of clones, massale selection and pinot fin. A bit riper than usuual in 2014, the Bart Echezots shows pretty aromas of strawberry and red currant with brown spice, violet and citrus. Strawberry and cherry fruit on the palate with spice and citrus, round and pretty with firm, earthy acidity and red fruits in the finish. This is a nice glass of Burgundy at a reasonable price - serve cool and enjoy over the next five years. DL
From 8 lieux-dits from across Gevrey-Chambertin. Considering the escalation in prices at all levels in Burgundy, Louis Boillot's Gevrey-Chambertin remains a fantastic value, brimming with Gevrey character, while remaining affordable. The 2014 is heady, fresh, and cool-toned on the nose offering black cherry, plum skin, raspberry, game and woodsmoke aromas. Dark-fruited and savory flavors intermingle on the medium-bodied palate, with ripe notes of black cherry, hedge fruit, cherry pit, and crushed herbs. There is good mineral detail to this lending a sapid counterpoint to the fruit. Nice freshness here with fine structure lending an earthy, masculine Gevrey character. This punches above its weight and should reward 4-5 years of cellaring and drink beautifully for the next 10. John McIlwain
From a .19 hectare plot beneath the Combe de Lavaux, Champonnet is the coolest of Louis Boillot's parcels. The 2014 Champonnet is effusively perfumed with complex floral and dark fruit aromas in addition to hints of grilled meat and cocoa bean. The palate is stony and grippy, with pungent earth notes dominating, followed by dark fruit flavors of black raspberry, black currant, and cassis. Still more layers of fruit and soil notes are revealed on the tangy, long, suave, detailed finish. It will take a few years in the cellar for this to integrate, but this should age beautifully. John McIlwain
From .23 hectare of vines dating back to 1948 between the parcels farmed by Gouges and Regis Forey. Les Perrières high on the slope between Les Poulettes and Les Poirets. The soil contains many stones which retain heat and Christophe Drag says this is the first vineyard harvested after the Bougogne. As Clive Coates has noted, somewhat atypically for Nuits St. Georges, the wines from this climat are more floral and feminine though certainly displaying great minerality. The 2012 Les Perrières is effusively floral with cherry blossoms and white flowers giving way to bright, pure cherry aromas and notes of spice. In the mouth it shows pretty black cherry, herb, and minerals on a medium bodied, but fine, palate with good sap and excellent energy following through on the lilting finish. John McIlwain
It's no secret that the Jean Chauvenet's 2012 Nuits St. Georges Les Perrières was one of my favorite red Burgundies of the vintage. The 2013 is another winner for the domaine. Chauvenet's Christope Drag farms a .23 hectare parcel of old vines high on the slope adjacent to Les Poulettes and Les Poirets between the holdings farmed by Henri Gouges and Regis Forey. The particularly stony soils retain heat and Christophe says this is typically the first vineyard harvested after the Bourgogne. Personally I find it the most effusively perfumed of his wines with his Vaucrains a close second. The bouquet of the 2013 leaps from the glass, with floral aromas, red fruits, and pretty wild berry aromas, giving way to spices and soil notes. The palate is equally fresh, with red berry, strawberry, Morello cherry, and pipe tobacco flavors giving way to a chalky minerality. There is fine energy and cut to this which carries through on a long, lingering, and building finish. This is certainly a pretty expression of Nuits St. Georges, but has the tannins and acidity to age with grace. John McIlwainFrom .23 hectare of vines dating back to 1948 between the parcels farmed by Gouges and Regis Forey. Les Perrières high on the slope between Les Poulettes and Les Poirets. The soil contains many stones which retain heat and Christophe Drag says this is the first vineyard harvested after the Bougogne. As Clive Coates has noted, somewhat atypically for Nuits St. Georges, the wines from this climat are more floral and feminine though certainly displaying great minerality
Jane et Sylvain have a superb, tiny parcel of Gevrey 1er Cru "Fontenys", high up in the southwest, separated from Grand Cru Ruchottes by a dirt track. They are certified organic and age the wine in old barriques. The 2013 is a bit coiled upon opening, but with an hour or so of air opens to reveal cherry and red berry fruit, wet bark, savory earth, and spice notes on the nose. The palate has good density offering sappy cherry fruit, lively acids, and dark-toned minerality with firm but ripe tannins and a very long, savory finish. This is a classy Gevrey which will need 5-8 years to come together but should drink beautifully for another dozen years after that. John McIlwain In January of 2014, I tasted the 2002 Gevrey 1er Cru Fontenys in the cellar with Jane and Sylvain.Their eldest son was born in 2002, so they saved a bunch for him, but were generous enough to share one with my father and me. It was transcendental - what I refer to as my "religious experience" with red Burgundy, and possibly one of the most memorable wines I've ever tasted. Flowers, stones, dried fruit, the subtle touch of tannin... truly a blissful experience. Jane says the wine has "la finesse du Ruchottes," referring to the Grand Cru vineyard that is literally feet away from the edge of their vines in the Premier Cru Fonteny. Unfortunately we don't have any of the 2002 at Chambers, but the 2013 is a great purchase for the cellar - patience will reward you if you can wait for it to develop. Eben Lillie
The vines are in the lieu-dit "Queue de Hareng" below an old quarry at the top of the slope in Brochon, next to Fixin 1er Cru "la Perrière," on red/brown soils of mountain silt and limestone pebbles over the limestone bedrock. Always giving an earthy and mineral-infused wine, the 2014 is a bit more fruit-forward but is still primarily a Burgundy of terroir. There is reduction when first opened so please decant or open in advance. With aeration the wine shows subtle aromas of red currant, strawberry and tart cherry with violet, brown spice and earth - really quite complex and pretty. The palate is well-structured with chalky mineral flavors underlying the earthy raspberry and strawberry fruit. The finish is long with firm acidity and mineral notes. This is a lovely and beautifully balanced Burgundy for those who enjoy minerals as much as fruit! Note: The wine improves dramatically over 3 to 4 days, re-corked in the fridge, for those with enough patience - or cellar for five to fifteen years.
From 45 to 60 year-old vines, certified organic, mostly in En Pallud (below 1er Cru les Corbeaux). The 2014 Gevrey shows a light red/black color, aromas of morello cherry, red currant and raspberry with hints of earth, stone, violets, black pepper and licorice. The palate is dense but light with cherry, red-currant, earth, citrus and mineral flavors with berry fruits and saline minerals lingering in the finish. Ripe but not a fruit-bomb - a red Burgundy of terroir that is delicious now, but should become a beautiful, old-fashioned wine when mature, best perhaps 2021 - 2030. On day two the wine has deepened with very sappy black and red fruits, quite dense and earthy. Lovely wine from living soils and quite a different style than modern Burgundies. David Lillie
Jane et Sylvain have a superb, tiny parcel of Gevrey 1er Cru "Fonteny", high up in the southwest corner, separated from Grand Cru Ruchottes by a dirt track, certified organic. Four barrels of 2014 Fonteny were produced, of which one was new. Tasted last February the wine showed dense, deep strawberry and black chery fruit with round supple tannins and a very long firm, palate coating finish. Re-tasted in November 2016, the round strawberry fruit is framed in chalky minerals, quite dense and palate-coating, balanced with soft tannins - a very young wine that will be delightful to drink now but best to wait five to ten years for the velvety complexity to come, best perhaps 2021 to 2035. David Lillie
From mixed limestone and clay soils in premier crus Clos Baulet and Les Gruenchers, which bracket Clos Sorbe beneath the village of Morey-Saint-Denis. Another lovely wine from Stephane Magnien. Ruby in color and medium-bodied. This is quite perfumed immediately upon opening; red fruits and flowers dominate. Wild strawberry, red plums, dried rose aromas are followed by hints of bergamot and spices. The energetic palate balances ripeness and structure. There is lovely rich fruit here with offsetting earthiness. The dry extract and ripeness buffer ripe tannins and there is a beautiful purity of fruit. The finish is long and complex with discreet oak. Enjoyable now, but should become lovely with a few years in the cellar. JCM
Les Sentiers premier cru is located on the north side of Chambolle-Musigny, beneath the Bonnes Mares Grand Cru and between the Les Baudes and Les Ruchots premier crus. Medium dark robe. The 2013 Les Sentiers shows a nice balance between fruit and earth. Raspberry, violet, spices, with hints of game and herb on the nose. Dark cherry, black tea, and blood orange peel on the sappy, yet chalky, mineral palate. As befits the cru's proximity to Bonnes Mares, this is a more masculine expression of Chambolle-Musiginy. There's good concentration of fruit here, in addition to distinct terroir delineation; with still more to be revealed as the structure resolves itself further. Decant now or better still, hold for 5 to 15 years. John McIlwain
This is a great Bourgogne Passetoutgrain from the young and very capable Stephane Magnien, whose great vineyard work and un-forced vinifications are producing superb, elegant Burgundies. The 2014 Cuvée Densité is from older vines of Pinot Noir and Gamay and gets a longer élevage than his "regular" Passetoutgrain. The palate is round and elegant with cherry and strawberry compote and earthy flavors but it's well-structured and refreshing with nice finishing acidity—really a lovely everyday Burgundy at a great price! Serve cool and enjoy. Decant for best drinking or open the day before as this "serious" Passetoutgrain will benefit from aging....
This a wonderful expression of Les Sentiers, aromatically expressive and layered. There are bright aromas of black cherry, raspberry, violets, woody herbs, and game on the nose. The mid-weight palate initially shows brambly black fruits, and pungent soil flavors. With time in the glass notes of dark cherry and cherry pit appear along with a savory ferrous minerality and spice notes. The tension between fruit and earthiness is compelling and will gain in complexity with time in the cellar. More expressive on the second day. If enjoying now, decant for several hours or revisit in 7-10 years and enjoy for the decade following. John McIlwain
From very old vines planted by Stephane's grandfather, the Magnien Chambolle-Musigny Vieilles Vignes is a lovely combination of finesse and ripeness.The wine shows subtle, very complex aromas of violet, rose, wild strawberry and raspberry with hints of earth, licorice and spice, with truffle and black fruits emerging with time open. The palate is elegant and sappy with blackberry and ripe strawberry, citrus and spice, with terrific length on the very mineral finish. This is a beautiful and well-structured Chambolle that is delicious now, best 2020 to 2030. Lovely wine!
The young and very talented Stephane Magnien is producing delicious, old fashioned Burgundies from his beautifully tended vineyards in and around Morey-Saint-Denis. The estate has never used herbicides and uses a plowing regimen designed to force the roots deeper into the limestone bedrock. The "village" wine is always one of my favorite recommendations in Burgundy due to its elegance, balance, lovely fruit and great value. The 2014 is particularly beautiful, with lovely aromas of strawberry liqueur, black raspberry, violet, blood orange - very floral with hints of earth, brown spice and oak. Great balance of firm acidity and ripe fruit with a touch of oak on the palate showing strawberry, blackberry, citrus and spice over a core of mineral flavors that linger in the long finish. This delicious young Burgundy is lovely to drink now but has all the elements for great medium-term aging - wait a few years then drink until 2030...
From a parcel of old vines grown in Les Faconnières, one of the best situated climats in Morey St. Denis, located beneath Clos de la Roche and between the Millandes and Charrières premier crus. The 2014 is truly lovely and perfumed, displaying floral and red fruit aromas of bright cherry, wild strawberry and violets, with a hint of game and wood smoke. Beautiful, pure red fruits carry over on the palate, with flavors of perfectly ripe Morello cherry, strawberry, and mineral spice, with lip-smacking acidity and a savory tannic spine. This shows layers of fruit with a mineral foundation beneath. This is a beautiful and harmonious Faconnières and while delicious now, will be marvelous from 2025 on. John McIlwainBurgundy at Thanksgiving - Of course! We have a wide variety of delicious Pinot Noirs from the ripe and lovely 2014 Burgundy vintage in stock that will also grace your Thanksgiving table, starting at around $20 - give us a call for assistance in your selection.
Situated just above Clos de la Roche, the Magnien's 2014 1er Cru Mont-Luisants shares the grand cru's "inherent lushness" (Clive Coates) in this lovely vintage for Burgundy. The wine shows a deep red-black color with lush aromas of blackberry, plum and ripe strawbwrry with earth, graphite and citrus. Dense ripe blackberry and black cherry fruit coats the palate with hints of bitter chocaolate and soil. Surprisingly round but with nice chalky acidity and a long finish of citrus and pretty berry fruits. Quite delicious now, this lovely wine will offer superb drinking with a little time in the cellar, perhaps best 2020 - 2035.
A 26-year-old Burgundy from half-bottle? Yep! Still very much alive. Black plum, black tea, a hint of game on the nose. Dark fruited, with stone fruit flavors, roasted meat, iron, and earth notes. Still a bit structured, but the framework and fruit are have begun to integrate to show some interesting tertiary character. John McIlwain
A touch of reduction on opening. An hour in the decanter reveals black cherry, black fruits, spices, and a kiss of anise on the nose. Not quite silken but softly textured, with ripe tannins and acid bringing up the finish. More blue-fruited on the palate with a good bit of earth just beneath the pretty fruit and spice. Soil notes become more prominent on second day as wine builds in weight and complexity. Very Vosne, if not flamboyantly so. This should be a compelling mid-weight Vosne with 5-6 years in the cellar. John McIlwain
From a 1/2 hectare parcel of 35 to 40 year-old Pinot Noir vines on poor chalky soil with clay/limestone below, certified organic since 1999 and with biodynamic methods. Yields of 20 hl/ha, elevage in barrique, 50% new. The great farming of Isabelle and Alain Hasard gives wines of great density and character and the 2014 Mercurey "Brigadiere" is a great example. A bit of toasty oak frames deep strawberry and ripe cherry aromas with violet, blood orange and spice. The palate is supple and bright with lush, earthy blackberry and strawberry fruit that lingers in the long finish framed in saline minerals and good acidity. At 12% alcohol the wine combines ripeness and density but retains a bright refreshing character. Enjoy now served cool with roast chicken and lighter beef and pork dishes. Best perhaps 2018 to 2025 - lovely wine!
From 10 to 50 year-old vines grown on limestone soils (Middle Jurassic!) in the commune of Aluze, Cotes Chalonnaise, certified organic since 1999. This is a lovely Bourgogne Rouge, showing the ripeness of the 2015 vintage, but in a medium-bodied, balanced and bright style that is quite delicious! Vivid aromas of black cherry, raspberry, violet and pepper, with a bright palate of blackberry and spicy red-currant/cherry fruit framed in mineral flavors and firm acidity. Delicious now served cool, it will benefit from decanting or a few years in the cellar as well. DL
From .75 hectares in the lieu-dit Les Marceours adjacent to Clos Myglands on the eastern edge of the village. The vines range from 15-40 years old and are grown in mixed limestone debris and ferruginous soils. Stylish Mercurey, showing the ripenes of the 2015 vintage, with an array of wild strawberry, cherry liqueur, earth and mineral aromas upon the nose, quite dense but elegant and bright. Medium-bodied, with ripe concentrated, sappy red fruits and dark earth tones and hints of spice in the mouth; there is oak present, but it integrates nicely into the very long, succulent, sappy and stony finish. Lovely now, should improve over the next five to eight years. This is an excellent value in Red Burgundy and a loely wine! DL
Julien Guillot of Vignes du Maynes makes this lovely Gamay from organic grapes grown by a friend, on the "premiere cote" of the Macon. The blackberry, red currant and cherry aromas are subtle and earthy, on the palate there is good acidity and a real sense of the soil with elegant dark fruit. Good acidity and tannin for this relatively soft vintage. This is a very interesting Gamay that will improve with decanting or some time open — or a few years in the cellar.
Julien Guillot made beautiful wines in 2014 and this Pinot Noir is no exception, showing fabulous complexity, finesse and freshness. The lovely aromas are of raspberry, blood orange, tart plum, brown spice, earth and tea, for starters. The palate is soft, silky and refreshing with black fruits mingled with earth, citrus, stone and tea with tart plum and raspberry emerging in the finish. Any lover of natural wine should try this! 12.5% alcohol, no added SO2, 100% delicious. David Lillie
Claudie Jobard makes this lovely wine from 45 year-old vines on a south-east facing slope of pebbly clay/limestone soils near the Chateau de Rully in the Côte Chalonnaise between Mercurey and Bouzeron. Although not certified organic, the soils are plowed and farming is sustanable. The wine shows lovely bright aromas of morello cherry and raspberry, with floral and mineral notes. There is nice depth of fruit on the palate - blackberry and cherry - with earth and citrus. The fruit lingers on the refreshing finish. This is a lovely Pinot Noir for current drinking that will deepen and soften over the next three to five years. Serve with any grilled meat, especially lamb or duck, roast chicken and mild cheeses. DL
Made from Gamay Petit Grains planted in 1953, grown on a limestone parcel high in magnesium, in the Clos des Vignes du Maynes in Cruzille, organic since 900 AD, now certified biodynamic. The energetic Julien Guillot vinifies his reds without sulfur or additives of any kind, producing complex, mineral, elegant wines that transcend their appellation. The 2015s here are extraordinary, showing the elegance, purity and balance typical of the estate with the wonderful ripeness of the vintage. The wine shows gorgeous red and black fruit aromas with cranberry, earth, stone and musk and hints of mint, chocolate and spice. The palate is bright and intense with balckberry, citrus, stone and earthy flavors, that continue on the very long mineral finish. Always one of the greatest Gamays produced anywhere, the 2015 Manganite is a very young wine that will benefit from decanting or five to ten years in the cellar. Highly recommended! DL