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La Boissonneuse vineyard makes up the bulk of Julien Brocard's holdings, at 11 of his 18 total hectares. This cuvée is sourced from 30-year-old biodynamically farmed vines, fermented with native yeasts, and aged in large foudre.
Vau de Vey is a 1er Cru vineyard in a valley between the Côte de Léchet and the Vau-Ligneau. Slopes here can get very steep (too steep for horses), and there are lots of large chunks of limestone mixed within the soils. Eastern exposure and the location in the valley makes for a cooler site. 12-13 months in wood.
From a 1.5 hectare parcel with Portlandian limestone and South / South-East exposure. It's the only wine that is made in temperature controlled stainless steel vats.
From a parcel of 40 year-old vines, this is lovely, satisfying Chablis, with ripe fullish yellow fruit in the attack and mid-palate and forceful minerality in the finish. This is a great candidate for mid-term aging (the 2016, backward upon release, grew into a beautiful swan with five years in the bottle). Sam Ehrlich
Among the most powerful and aromatic of the 1er Crus in Chablis, Vaillons drinks amazingly well in its youth while still aging into something stunning.
Five small parcels within what is likely the greatest 1er Cru vineyard in Chablis, with a high proportion of clay in the soil and due south-east facing.
Sitting just to the east of Montee de Tonnerre, this is another site with extraordinary potential. Duplessis farms just under a third of a hectare.
The Paquet family is based in the Maconnais. They have nearly thirty hectares across a dozen appellations, all farmed organically and on the way to certification. This is their entry-level Chardonnay and it is delightful, full of lime and green herbs, with clear mineral tones and good freshness. There is no oak influence at all and no funny business. This is just tasty Chardonnay grown in limestone soils, perfect as we emerge from the ice and snow into Spring. Sam Ehrlich
The Guillemot-Michel "Une Bulle" comes from a tiny parcel of old vines on limestone with red clay, high in iron. The wine is a Pet-Nat (Methode Ancestrale) that is bottled after a short period of fermentation, leaving enough sugar in the wine for the fermentation to continue and create the desired bubbles. The wine is aged in bottle on the lees for around 18 months, then riddled and disgorged and re-bottled with a bit more "Une Bulle." The result is a very delicious aged Pet-Nat showing honeyed aromas of pear and white peach with hints of almond, marzipan and brioche. On the palate the mousse is soft and creamy with flavors of peach and quince with lime-flower and minerals and a long finish of white fruits, citrus peel and firm acidity. This is a delightful wine to sip by itself or pair with mild cheeses, patés and terrines, fruit desserts.. David Lillie
Bas de Chapelot comes from a 3.2 hectare parcel just below Montée de Tonnerre. It is the Vocoret's only parcel on the right side of the river bank. The soil is deep, clay and limestone, and Kimmeridgian (moyen). The vines are now 40 years old vines and due to their proximity to the riverbed are very exposed to frost.
Boucheran is made from a 0.89 hectare located between two premier crus, Vaillons and Montmains. The soil is Kimmeridgian (moyen) with a high proportion of white clay in the soil. The vines are 35 years old.
3.13 hectares of vines dating from 1938, with an average age of 40 years, in limestone clay soils, well exposed to the east. Île des Vergelesses is considered the finest climat in Pernand-Vergelesses and the Chandon bottling is a truly fabulous wine, year after year. The fruit is distinctly red here but reviewing my notes, I was apparently more concerned with the mouthfeel and texture than any kind of flavor descriptor.I also used a bad word in my hyperbole. This starts out quite point and linear, with incredible drive, but broadens in the mid-palate and becomes quite lacy. Overall this is quite delicate, with just the right amount of grip. Tremendous. Sam Ehrlich
The northernmost edge of Gevrey, 'Champeaux' is high on the hill, and a jigsaw puzzle of terraces and different exposures. The rocky soils make for very precise and long-lived wines.
From eight different parcels, with an average vine age of sixty years and some vines that go back to 1915. A terrific calling card for this domaine. There is lovely fullish strawberry and dark cherry fruit, with real grip and structure without losing the prettiness of the wine. The finish is long and quite spicy and savory. The oak is exceptionally well-judged and well-handled. Sam Ehrlich