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From a parcel of forty-year old vines, roughly 325 meters above the valley and village of Saint Romain. The soils here are intensely chalky and this comes across immediately. This is extremely fine, with touches of citrus, white flowers and toasted bread giving dimension around the incisive mineral flavors. The acidity in all three wines today is quite astonishing - this is racy and snappy and very precise. Probably the lightest of the range today, this feels very much in conversation with first-rate Chablis. Sam Ehrlich
'Sous Le Chateau' comes from vines averaging thirty years, but high on the slope (nearly 400 meters above sea level) and facing south-southeast. This is the fullest feeling of the Buisson St. Romains, with ripe lime and orange citrus, white peach and apricot notes and some sweet spice up front. There is excellent length on the palate and plenty of stoniness at the back end. The feeling of balance here is impressive, as well as an overall drinkability that creeps up until the bottle is empty and one is left wondering what happened. Sam Ehrlich
(Arrives 8/2) This is a cellar release this year. Picked in two passes on August 30th and then September 18th, to produce a wine that shows richness and freshness in equal measure. The primary fruit here has begun to develop into something a little earthier and more complex, toasted almond and hazelnuts and salty notes muscling in alongside apricot and yellow apple. Incredible acidity here for such a hot vintage. This has so much life in it, no doubt in part to four decades of dedication to organic and biodynamic farming. Sam Ehrlich
(Arrrives 8/2) Created in 2017, this cuvee is issued from grapes in the "Champ-Rond" vineyard, vinified in amphora of 800 liters. The 65 year-old vines are grafted on "Riparia Gloire de Montpellier" an old root-stock obtained in 1880, giving very low yields with magnificent small grapes, of a deep gold color. The Retour a la Terre presents the exotic notes typical of the domaine with an extra dimension of expression due to the respiration of the amphora. The small grapes of "Champ-Rond" ripen beautifully without a high degree of alcohol - they are picked on the last day of the harvest, and the elevage in amphora gives the wine a great purity. The wine shows elegant floral, white fruit, apricot, lemon and stone aromas. The palate is round, dense and silky with fabulous length. This is a superb white Burgundy that is delicious now and will cellar beatifully for fifteen to twenty years. Highly recommended!
(arrives 8/2) The Guillemot-Michel "Une Bulle" comes from a tiny parcel of old vines on limestone with red clay, high in iron. The wine is a Pet-Nat (Methode Ancestrale) that is bottled after a short period of fermentation, leaving enough sugar in the wine for the fermentation to continue and create the desired bubbles. The wine is aged in bottle on the lees for around 18 months, then riddled and disgorged and re-bottled with a bit more "Une Bulle." The result is a very delicious aged Pet-Nat showing honeyed aromas of pear and white peach with hints of almond, marzipan and brioche. On the palate the mousse is soft and creamy with flavors of peach and quince with lime-flower and minerals and a long finish of white fruits, citrus peel and firm acidity. This is a delightful wine to sip by itself or pair with mild cheeses, patés and terrines, fruit desserts.. David Lillie
(Arrives 8/2) Retour A La Terre (Return to the Earth) is named for the parcel and the aging process. The vines come from a piece of the vineyard heavy with clay. They are on average about 65 years old, on a very old strain of rootstock that produces tiny but brilliantly ripe clusters of chardonnay. The wine that results is aged in three large clay amphora, allowing the wine to breathe without the influence of oak. The 2020 is excellent, with juicy white and yellow fruit, and the same feeling of purity and clarity as Quintaine. No shortage of finesse here. Sam Ehrlich
(Mid-August arrival) Julien Guillot of the Clos des Vignes du Maynes makes this lovely Mâcon-Villages (100% Chardonnay) from certified organic parcels in Viré-Clessé, Chardonnay and Montbellet, on Bathonian limestone with clay, rich in silica. Minimal SO2 is added before bottling. The nose opens with bright lemon and cool mineral notes. An hour later after opening up in the glass, nutty, toasty notes and green melon come to the fore. On the palate, the initial notes were of high acid, spritzy citrus and a pronounced leesiness. After an hour in the glass, the palate skewed richer with more of the toasty, nutty notes found on the nose balancing out the high acid citrus notes. The finish is long and concentrated from the 20 months on the lees. As the wine has just landed from France, give it a week or two to settle and give it an hour decant open opening, the wine will reward you for your patience! Giselle Hamburg
The Lafouge Auxey-Duresses "Les Hautés" is from a north-facing parcel fairly high on the slope next to Meursault "Les Vireuils." "The 2020 Auxey-Duresses Blanc “les Hautés” from Monsieur Lafouge is another beautifully racy and minerally example of the vintage. The bouquet jumps from the glass in a blaze of green apple, fresh lime, dried flowers, beeswax, limestone minerality and a whisper of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is precise, full-bodied and snappy, with a lovely core, excellent soil inflection and grip, bouncy acids and a very long, focused and very promising finish. Again, just a bit of patience will be handsome dividends with this excellent young wine." John Gilman "View from the Cellar"
The Lafouge Auxey-Duresses "Les Hautés" is from a north-facing parcel fairly high on the slope next to Meursault "Les Vireuils."
"The 2020 Auxey-Duresses Blanc “les Hautés” from Monsieur Lafouge is another beautifully racy and minerally example of the vintage. The bouquet jumps from the glass in a blaze of green apple, fresh lime, dried flowers, beeswax, limestone minerality and a whisper of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is precise, full-bodied and snappy, with a lovely core, excellent soil inflection and grip, bouncy acids and a very long, focused and very promising finish. Again, just a bit of patience will be handsome dividends with this excellent young wine." John Gilman "View from the Cellar"
This is sourced from vines between twenty and sixty years old and aged all wood. This is Chablis at its most inviting. It's full of juicy white fruit, peach and pear and feels generally supple and accessible from the moment the cork is pulled. But what is most captivating and engaging is the mineral component here. Chablis is defined by its limestone soils and at its best its character comes through as something I have always identified as "Welch's grape soda." Some people compare it to fennel or licorice, others to something else - it's somewhat nebulous, as tasting stones is not something we do in life. But whatever it is, this wine has it. The finish is stained with this unique expression of limestone, which is what we should ask of it. Outstanding for the price. Sam Ehrlich
Bas de Chapelot comes from a 3.2 hectare parcel just below Montée de Tonnerre. It is the Vocoret's only parcel on the right side of the river bank. The soil is deep, clay and limestone, and Kimmeridgian (moyen). The vines are now 40 years old vines and due to their proximity to the riverbed are very exposed to frost.