Billaud, Samuel 2017 Chablis 1er Cru Montmains

Brocard, Julien 2017 Chablis 1er cru Vaudevey

Julien Brocard farms his 18 hectares biodynamically, using horsepower in the vineyards when possible. Grapes are hand-harvested and he's very hands-off in the cellar: using spontaneous native yeast fermentation, a mix of larger, wooden vats and foudre for aging, and lower levels of sulfur. Vau de Vey is a 1er Cru vineyard in a valley between the Côte de Léchet and the Vau-Ligneau. Slopes here can get very steep (too steep for horses), and there are lots of large chunks of limestone mixed within the soils. Eastern exposure and the location in the valley makes for a cooler site, fantastic for Chardonnay with a mineral finish. CB

Brocard, Julien 2018 Chablis La Boissonneuse

La Boissonneuse vineyard makes up the bulk of Julien Brocard's holdings, at 11 of his 18 total hectares. This cuvée is sourced from 30-year-old biodynamically farmed vines, fermented with native yeasts, and aged in large foudre.

Chandon de Briailles 2017 Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru

Based in the village of Savigny-lès-Beaune with vines in Corton and Pernand-Vergelesses, the estate has roots going back to 1834. Claude de Nicolay, along with her brother François de Nicolay, fashion pure, old-school, age-worthy Burgundy. The vineyard work has been organic since the 1980s and certified biodynamic since 2005 with vines replanted with massale selection. Yields are kept low to express the terroir of each vineyard. 

Chantereves 2018 Bourgogne Aligoté Les Chagniots

Guillaume and Tomoko Bott of Maison Chantre^ves have made quite  a name for themselves over the past few years, carefully seeking out organic fruit sources and making small lots of red and white Burgundy that emphasize purity and freshness over all else. The 2018 "Chagniots" Bourgogne Aligoté is a case in point. This is a parcel of vines just north of Ladoix, less than a fifth of a hectare, farmed organically and largely untilled. The wine is vinified and aged in older barrels without batonnage and very little sulfur. The resulting wine is exceptional - redolent with lemon, orange oil and a touch of under-ripe apricot. There is undoubtedly a sense of oak here but it is balanced with plenty of acidity. The minerality that one associates with the variety is on full display. This is built to age and will reward patience.      Sam Ehrlich

Chateau de Maltroye 2016 Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Boudriottes

Chevrot 2018 Bourgogne Aligote "Quatre Terroirs"

The Chevrot wines are perennial favorites around these parts and for good reasons. The Chevrot brothers make wines full of energy and personality, with a clear sense of place. The 2018 "Quatre Terroirs" is classic Aligoté - pungent with lemon and seashells and a touch of toasted sesame on the palate. The finish is bright and salty, with something that reminds me of sherbet at the very end. This is lovely and sluggable and practically begging for a clam roll.

Sam Ehrlich

De Villaine, A.et P. 2018 Bouzeron Aligoté

From the other Co^te. The 2018 Domaine de Villaine Bouzeron has pale yellow green robe.  Lemon blossom, jonquil, rainwater, and powdered grapefruit zest on the expressive nose. The palate is racy and belies the the solar 2018 vintage, shaded more to preserved lemon, sea spray, and nervy stony sapidity, rather than overt fruit. There is a concentration that denotes ageabilty, and a persistent, mouthwatering finish that is deeply stony and satisfying. Lovely with quickly saute´ed scallops and brown butter with braised Greenmarket scallions, but with enough sap to pair nicely with roasted carrots with salsa verde. And yes, the price has crept up, but this is immensely satisfying and given the prices of middling Chablis and village wines is definitely worth a look. Excellent juice. John McIlwain

De Villaine, A.et P. 2018 Bouzeron Aligoté 1.5L

Domaine des Crets 2014 Macon - Chardonnay En Bout

Finding Burgundy wines that feel genuinely ready to drink is ever more difficult in the current market. It's largely a question of economics -prices have gotten so high that quick turnover is essential - but it's nonetheless a shame. There are few greater pleasures than a really excellent bottle of Burgundy, red or white, that has been given the chance to reach maturity. That's why this 2014 Macon from Domaine des Crets is so exciting. Des Crets is a small domaine owned by Francois Lequin of Domaine Lequin Colin in Santenay. The vineyards are farmed organically (moving towards certification) and the winemaking is simple - native yeasts, unhurried fermentations and very little new oak. The results are outstanding. This is brimming with oyster shell notes, pineapple, lime curd and creme fraiche and the balance of the excellent 2014 vintage is on display. The acidity here adds tension and energy and after six years in bottle, the mineral character of the region is well exposed. If you need a reminder of how great white Burgundy can be with a bit of patience, then look no further. Amazing value here.       Sam Ehrlich

Domane de l'Enclos 2016 Chablis 1er Cru Beauroy

Here's a rarity, a new organic grower in Chablis. Brothers Romain and Damien Bouchard whose father Pascal is a famed negotiant. In 2015 their father sold the winery and passed on his vines to the sons who've built a new winery and begun the process of organic certification. The wines are fermented with natural yeasts and aged in stainless steel and bottled with minimal sulfur. The 2016 Beauroy 1er cru from the left bank of the Serein river is bright, high-toned and redolent of white flowers and sea spray on the nose. The palate is fresh, vibrant and nervy with punchy flavors of lemon zest, apple peel, and chalk on a galloping finish. This has great tension between the pungent mineral notes and ripe orchard fruit with a compelling, cool savory herbal notes. The Bouchard brothers are vignerons to watch. John McIlwain

Dominique Cornin 2017 Macon Chaintre Serreudieres

Duplessis, Gérard 2016 Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons

Fichet 2008 Meursault Chevaliers

Fichet 2017 Meursault Les Tessons

Fichet 2017 Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Referts

If you were to ask me which white wine producer in the Co^te d’Or brings me the most joy at the table, there are a few growers whose wines would come to mind, but ultimately despite my love for Germain, Leflaive, Pierre Morey, Niellon, Ramonet, Roulot, and others, I have to confess that Fichet consistently lights up my glass. The 2017 Puligny Referts 1er is no exception. Reductive and taut in opening, within a hour it offers all of the classic aromatics of Puligny: lemon blossom, honeysuckle, sweet pea (chlorophyll), sea spray, and a whisper of mint(?). The palate is similarly composed, with a perfect equipoise between savory driving minerality and an extravagant flush of yellow and white stone fruit. Expansive and exuberant? Sure! Yet containing layer after layer of nuance? Absolutely. This was magnificent with lemon scented ricotta stuffed ravioli and favas from our friends at the Simone and their Simone-A-Go-Go delivery. And shimmered with the Cooper River King Salmon, sugar snap peas, and spring onions. Take joy where you find it, friends. And do give Tina a call if you are in Manhattan. The Simone delivers on nearly as many levels as this gorgeous Referts from Monsieur Fichet.  John McIlwain

Goisot, Guihelm & Jean-Hugues 2018 Bourgogne Aligoté

Goisot is perhaps best known for their Sauvignon de St. Bris, considered a benchmark for the appellation, as well as riveting Cote d'Auxerre chardonnays that often outperform wines from neighboring Chablis. The Aligoté often goes overlooked, which is a shame, as it is firmly of a piece with the other wines in the range. The 2018 shows the weight of the vintage without obscuring the distinct character of limestone soils. This gleams white-green in the glass and the nose displays lime zest, under-ripe pear. white lilies and something I can only describe as dust from blackboard eraser. On the palate there is more citrus, white pepper, tarragon and a salty chalky finish. This will make a lovely aperitif and a welcome companion to oysters and clams this summer. Sam Ehrlich

(This is a pre-arrival and will be available for delivery starting Friday).

Goisot, Guilhem & Jean-Hugues 2018 Sauvignon de Saint-Bris Exogyra Virgula

Estates making serious Sauvignon de St. Bris are as rare as hens' teeth and Goisot sits atop this tiny heap. The appellation, (in the near-vicinity of Chablis) is the only one in Burgundy that permits the planting of Sauvignon Blanc and often gets lost in the ocean of Chardonnay. But when handled right, these can be wonderful, refreshing, salty wines. 2018 was a warm vintage across France and this is a richer style than some previous iterations, redolent with lime curd, pineapple and fresh sage. But the limestone core is what gives this wine its soul. The finish is firm and saline, making this more than a match for almost anything you might be having for dinner. Thinking about a bottle of Sancerre for this evening? You'd do well to consider this instead... Sam Ehrlich

Guillemot-Michel 2018 Viré-Clessé Retour a la Terre

Created in 2017, this cuvee is issued from grapes in the "Champ-Rond" vineyard, vinified in amphora of 800 liters. The 65 year-old vines are grafted on "Riparia Gloire de Montpellier" an old root-stock obtained in 1880, giving very low yields with magnificent small grapes, of a deep gold color. The 2018 Retour a la Terre presents the exotic notes typical of the domaine with an extra dimension of expression due to the respiration of the amphora. The small grapes of "Champ-Rond" ripen beautifully without a high degree of alcohol -  they are picked on the last day of the harvest, and the elevage in amphora gives the wine a great purity. Tasted at the domaine in January 2020, the wine showed elegant floral, white fruit, apricot, lemon and stone aromas. The palate was round, dense and silky with fabulous length. This is a superb white Burgundy that is delicious now and will cellar beatifully for ten to fifteen years. Highly recommended!  David Lillie

Guillemot-Michel 2018 Viré-Clessé Une Bulle

The Guillemot-Michel "Une Bulle" comes from a tiny parcel of old vines on limestone with red clay, high in iron. The wine is a Pet-Nat (Methode Ancestrale) that is bottled after a short period of fermentation, leaving enough sugar in the wine for the fermentation to continue and create the desired bubbles. The wine is aged in bottle on the lees for around 18 months, then riddled and disgorged and re-bottled with a bit more "Une Bulle."  The result is a very delicious aged Pet-Nat showing honeyed aromas of pear and white peach with hints of almond, marzipan and brioche. On the palate the mousse is soft and creamy with flavors of peach and quince  with lime-flower and minerals and a long finish of white fruits, citrus peel and firm acidity. This is a delightful wine to sip by itself or pair with mild cheeses, patés and terrines, fruit desserts..  David Lillie

Jacqueson, Paul et Marie 2018 Rully Blanc 1er Cru Grésigny

Leflaive 2017 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru

Lignier, Hubert 2018 Aligoté

Merlin, Olivier 2016 Macon - La Roche Vineuse Vieilles Vignes

Morey, Pierre 2016 Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru

Morey, Pierre 2017 Meursault

Morey, Pierre 2017 Meursault Les Tessons

Morey-Blanc 2017 St. Aubin 1er Cru

Prudhon 2017 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Les Perrières

Rateau 2017 Beaune 1er Cru Les Coucherias

Beaune 1er Cru "Les Coucherias" is high on the slope on the site of an old quarry and much of the sub-soil is limestone tailings, permitting root penetration and drainage, with a topsoil of mixed clay and limestone "marnes blanches." In biodynamic agriculture since 1979, the vineyard is a south-facing semi-circle—a very warm spot. The 2017 has a pale green gold robe. The nose offers an array of stone fruit and citrus peel aromas with a hint of mineral spice. The mid-weight, punchy palate shows a melange of stone fruit and green apple flavors with a pungent sense of minerality driving the long, concentrated finish. There's plenty going on here with ripe fruit and floral overtones vying with an overt stoniness for attention. Just cracking with a wild mushroom risotto, and a natural match for chicken, roasted cod, or even blanquette de veau. Give a quick decant now or better still in 2-3 years and beyond. John McIlwain

Rateau 2018 Beaune 1er Cru Les Coucherias (July 7)

Beaune 1er Cru "Les Coucherias" is high on the slope on the site of an old quarry and much of the sub-soil is limestone tailings, permitting root penetration and drainage, with a topsoil of mixed clay and limestone "marnes blanches." In biodynamic agriculture since 1979, the vineyard is a south-facing semi-circle—a very warm spot.The 2018 has a bright bronze/gold color and lovley aromas or ripe white peach and pear with exotic citrus and herbal notes. The ripe, deep palate palate shows stone,  apricot, pear and almond flavors with lovely density and a firm core of minerality that lingers in the very long finish. Delicious now, showing the lush fruit of 2018, it should cellar beautifully as well. David Lillie

Rateau 2018 Cote de Beaune La Grande Chatelaine 7/8

About a kilometer or two northwest of the Beaune 1er Crus, La Grande Chatelaine is a cooler site with soils comprised of clay over limestone. Stone fruit and pear skin, white flowers and wet stone on the nose. Bright and fresh aromatically. The mid-weight palate is racy (especially given the vintage) and rainwater fresh with orchard fruit and lemon oil flavors, dancing astride sapid herbal notes with a clinging stoniness on the long, mouthwatering, expansive finish. Delicious with mezze maniche and sautéed fresh white corn, spring onions and grape tomatoes. And I can see this pairing beautifully with grilled sea bass or pan-roasted scallops. This is lovely vibrant Chardonnay with a sense of place and worthy of a look, though I’d drink in the mid-term while the fruit is singing, say until 2025. John McIlwain

Rollin 2017 Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru

Rollin 2017 Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru 1.5L

Rollin 2017 Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru Sous Frétille

Thenard 2007 Montrachet Grand Cru Le Montrachet 1.5 L

Valette, Bernard 2017 Beaujolais Blanc

Vocoret, Eleni & Edouard 2018 Chablis Bas du Chapelot