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What's an Alsace section without a Gewurztraminer! This one has the perfect level of sweetness. It's not cloying or sticky, but is instead balanced and fresh, with white flowers and other classic Gewurz aromatics, a rich and textured palate, and great underlying acidity which lends well to the dreamy and majestic finish. Laurent is very careful about sulfur use, with minimal amounts added, so this may not be a wine to age (due to the residual sugar), but why wait? Drink on it's own or with any of your favorite spicy dishes. Eben Lillie
This may be our favorite vintage yet of the Racines Metisses from Barth! The nose jumps out with herbs and white flowers, suggesting Muscat and Gewürztraminer (it's primarily Pinot Auxerrois, with Muscat, Riesling, small amounts of Pinot Gris and a tiny fraction of Gewürztraminer). It's crunchy and crisp, and a bit fleshy too. There's a sense that Barth has attained a level of mastery with his blends, as all of the elements are in balance here. Truly a lovely little snapshot of Alsace. Eben Lillie
From vines ranging 40-60 years in age, this is a fascinating Riesling from Laurent Barth that has great intensity on the palate, subtle fruit, remarkable density and a very long mineral finish. 2014 is considered by Alsace growers to be an exceptional Riesling vintage, and this old vines bottling certainly shows potential for aging, though it is in such a great place currently that it might be hard to hold onto! Bravo to Laurent Barth for bottling memorable Alsace Rieslings year after year!
Laurent Barth makes beautifully balanced Alsatian wines from his tiny organic estate in Bennwhir, near Colmar. The 2014 Pinot d'Alsace (Pinot Auxerrois with a bit of Pinot Noir) is a lovely aperitif and a perfect wine for many fish and chicken dishes. Showing pretty aromas of pear, apple and lime-flower with citrus, pear, almond and herbal flavors on the palate - really pretty, round and balanced - this is a great value and a good introduction to the beautiful wines of Laurent Barth.
Of the Albert Boxler grand crus, I always find Brand to be the more linear, more architectural, while Sommerberg is prettier, almost pastoral in character. The 2009 Riesling Brand displays the character of the vintage and climat: rich and ripe, but well-structured beneath the fruit. The nose is a melange of lovely orchard fruit, sea spray and a hint of petrol. The palate is powerful, textured, and deeply mineral, verging on salty. The finish is dry, sinewy, a quite long. This is still quite young, displaying more cut and less generosity than the Sommerberg from the same vintage. Impressively put together, if just approaching adolescence. Despite it's youth, this is a fine Riesling to pair with tea-smoked duck, or roasted pork. John McIlwain
Comparing the grand crus at Albert Boxler (not even taking into account the lieu-dits/letter designates) has one grasping for descriptors or analogies. Both are deeply mineral, but Sommerberg is perhaps the prettier, more supple of the two; Brand is powerful, structured, even a bit angular. Tasting both crus from single vintage is always an interesting (and delicious) exercise. The 2009 Sommerberg is dense, rich, and more subtly mineral that the leaner Brand. Floral on the nose with aromas of apple blossom, honeysuckle, and pear skin. The fruit is more generous, with pretty notes of baked pear, acacia honey, and lemon curd giving way to a dusty stoniness on the supple, textured finish. This is quite lovely, if less punchy than the Brand in 2009. That said, this was delicious with steamed fish with ginger and scallions and superlative with lobster chow fun. John McIlwain
This is an impressive Riesling, sourced from vineyards in the Grand Cru sites of Spiegel et Kitterlé, making it an incredible deal for a "basic" Riesling (without Lieu-Dit or Grand Cru designation). Stones and white flowers on the nose, with laser-like acidity on the palate, and only a hint of fruit. Up to a year of lees aging gives the wine nice density and length. It's at a great spot for drinking now, and will likely improve for many years to come. Eben Lillie
During the 19th century, the Dirlers, along with the Dopff de Riquewihr family, were the pioneers of 'vin mousseux' in Alsace. Production lulled in post-War years, but they're back in the game now and we're happy to present this delicious Brut Nature Cremant from the undisputed OG's of Alsatian sparkling wine! Mostly Pinot Gris and Pinot Auxerrois, with a small amount of Pinot Noir. There's subtle hint of fresh bread on the nose, and a touch of orchard fruit on the palate, but the wine is dominated by a stony, mineral backbone. The wine is fermented in stainless steel and then aged for less than a year before being kept sur latte under capsule for around a year and a half. This is Methode Champenois, no dosage. Refreshing, crisp, and a must for fans of great bubbles. Eben Lillie
A wine with a nice arc, the 2 Lunes Pinot Blanc is at first crispy and fresh with crunchy acidity, and then evolves, becoming softer and rounder with time, opening up to reveal lovely floral aromatics and stone fruit. The 2 Lunes wines utilize a sweetness scale, from 0 - 5, which is indicated on each of their cuvees. This one gets a 1/5 on the sweetness scale, but whatever residual sugar exists is balanced by the minerals and acid, leaving a simple impression of ripe orchard fruit. Very enjoyable on its own, this Pinot Blanc will pair perfectly with anything from salads to fish or poultry.
Textbook Alsace Riesling from 60 year old vines. The nose is all white stone fruit and a hint of petrol. A very pleasant and palatable acidity frames the wine from beginning to end, and the finish is remarkably long, my guess due to the beautiful minerality of the wine and to the Beuchers' old vines. Residual sugar is only 2.7 grams, and the wine is given a 0/5 on the 2 Lunes sweetness scale. This is dry Riesling through and through, but with enough fruit and density to charm. Eben Lillie
From four hectares of massale-selection, high density plantings ranging from 50 to 100 years of age in the lieu-dits of Chenes, Corcelette, and les Martillets. Vigneron Jean-Claude Chanudet works the vineyards organically but does not seek certification. The 2014 Clos de Lys shows complex aromas of strawberry and black cherry, pepper, blood orange and musk with hints of earth and graphite. The palate is dense but not at all heavy with equal parts dark fruits and earthy flavors that continue in the long finish. After long aeration, the aromas are more focused and elegant while the palate remains a bit austere with earthy berry fruits, quite well structured, predicting good aging potential. Fans of Lapierre or Foillard should definitely try the wines from Chamonard, which are certainly among the finest of the Chauvet-style Beaujolais - this is a lovely natural Morgon that will benefit from decanting if drinking now, and will probably show best (as usual with Chamonard) at between five and ten years of age.
A rare and delicious Fleurie from Jean-Claude Chanudet at Domaine Chamonard! The 2015 "La Madone" shows the lush ripeness of this vintage but it's well-balanced and lifted by firm acidity and freshess at 13.5% alcohol. The wine shows deep red/black color with the more black fruit aromas of this vintage - blackberry and ripe plum with violet, mint, clove, dark chocolate and cherry liqueur. The palate is deep and supple with blackberry, red currant, earth, cocoa and citrus, brightened by citrusy acidity. This is nicely balanced, though quite ripe and powerful - certainly one of the finest 2015s we've tasted. Enjoy now with a steak, grilled pork or lamb and full-flavored cheeses. This will repay short-term aging, probably best from 2019 to 2025. DL
In 2015 Alain Coudert's Clos de la Roilette is showing its historical roots in Moulin-a-Vent (as it was classified until the 1920s) as the clay soils here produced a big wine with a generous amount of alcohol in this very warm vintage. The color is a deep red/black, with aromas of ripe blackberry and black raspberry liqueur with hints of violet and blood orange backed by graphite and earth. The palate shows very ripe black fruits with earth, mineral, cocoa and leather, lifted by firm acidity in the long dense finish. This will accompany grilled meats, charcuterie and full-flavored cheeses. Quite delicious now in its youthful intensity, this is a great candidate for cellaring, best probably from 2019 to 2026. Highly recommended. David Lillie
Georges Descombes is one of the great producers of natural Beaujolais and we're very happy to have the first of his 2014s in the store. The Descombes Brouilly comes from 3.5 hectares on steep slopes, farmed organically. Carbonic maceration with whole clusters then a slow vertical press to finish the fermentation. No additives, a small addition of SO2 before bottling. The 2014 shows the pretty, ripe fruit of this vintage with lovely aromas of strawberry, blackberry and violet with herbal and citrus notes. The palate is fresh and mineral infused with berry fruits and citrusy acids. This is a lovely food-friendly Brouilly to serve, quite cool, with chicken, pork, charcuterie and mild cheeses...
Georges Descombes is one of the finest wine-makers in Beaujolais, consistently producing stylish, balanced wines which benefit from his great vineyard work and careful vinifications with minimal sulfur dioxide. The 2014 Morgon is a beautiful, perfectly balanced wine that is delicious now and over the next three to five years. Lovely garnet color, pretty, quite floral raspberry/strawberry aromas with citrus, spice and herbal notes. the palate is light but has good density and supple, pure berry fruit with earthy citrus and mineral flavors in the long finish. 12.5% alcohol. Highly recommended.
"Faites des vins peu alcoolisés avec un joli parfum" said Jules Chauvet (Make wines low in alcohol and with lovely aromas) and no one does this better than Christian Ducroux! Despite the frost, hail, mildew and low yields of 2016, the Prologue is a superb, joyous wine showing bright floral aromas of violet, rose, raspberry and wild strawberry with earth and pepper. At 11% alcohol, the palate is light and silky, showing raspberry, strawberry and mineral flavors with earth, pepper and anise, finishing with refreshing acidity and cool berry fruits. Just lovely! Christian is a master of zero-additive winemaking - the wine is alive and changeable, totally natural and refreshing. Drinking in one sitting is advised and almost unavoidable. Christian's vineyard work is among the best in the world - his vineyards are an oasis of responsible agriculture in the eroded, herbicided landscape around him and his tractor rests in the barn as the two draught horses and bull do all the work. Bravo to Christian Ducroux!
Christian Ducroux' 5 hectare estate has been certified organic and biodynamic since 1985, and has operated as a nearly self-sufficient farm, producing its own fertilzer and compost, and plowing and harvesting almost entirely without machinery. The vines average over 60 years of age and are replaced by massale selection, giving extremely low yields. The 2015 Exspectatia (the wine formerly known as Regnié) shows a deep opaque red/black color. Slight reduction, then vivid aromas of blackberry liqueur, blood orange, rose, black pepper, brown spices, earth and licorice. On the palate the wine is very complex with blackberry and red currant fruit, earth, spice and citrus with a long intense finish of black fruits and earth that lingers on the palate. Only 12.5% alcohol, even in this very ripe vintage. Bravo to Christian Ducroux for his beautiful farming and for this complex, expressive natural wine! Re-tasted in October 2016, the wine showed beautifully, with remarkable complexity, intense aromas of ripe blackberry, violet, musk, pepper, licorice and earth, that continue with a dense, earthy texture on the palate. Really a profound wine of terroir that expresses the incredilble farming and winemaking of Christian Ducroux - certainly one of the finest natural wines of France.(Decanting advised, no added sulfur - consume on the day opened)
Certified organic since 2009, the Dutraive family's Domaine de la Grand Cour produces subtle, traditional wines from their 9 hectares in Fleurie and a small parcel in Brouilly. Harvested by hand, the grapes ferment with wild yeasts in carbonic maceration, without addition of sulfur. The "Clos de la Grand Cour" is aged in a combination of cuve inox, barrels and foudres. The 2015 shows penetrating aromas of ripe strawberry and black cherry with pepper, iris, violet and earth. Elegant blackberry, plum-skin, licorice and earth on the palate, very deep and long, framed in firm acidity and quite powerful at 14.5% alcohol. This will be quite delicious now, served with steak, grilled pork, duck and strong cheeses, but should benefit from a few years of aging, best perhaps 2018 to 2022.
France Gonzalvez is making lovely natural Beaujolais and has succeeded in making a vibrant, well-balanced Cote de Brouilly in this vintage of frequent over-ripeness and high alcohol. The wine shows deep ripe aromas of blackberry liqueur with citrus, violet and cocoa, with lighter berry fruits on the bright and lively palate - quite ripe but with fresh acidity, very pure and long. Serve cool and decant if drinking now, perhaps best 2018 - 2025. DL
Julien Guillot of the Clos des vignes du Maynes makes this beautiful Beaujolais from a small parcel of 90 year-old Gamay vines of various old varieties in Leynes, just south of Pouilly-Fuissé. The parcel is at 1200 ft in altitude, with granite soils, giving a light but remarkably intense wine at 11.5% alcohol. The wine shows aromas of ripe blackberry, violets and earth, with hints of citrus and spice. Blackberry, plum and strawberry on the palate with firm citrusy acids, earth and mineral flavors. This is an outstanding natural Beaujolais - serve cool with charcuterie, chicken and pork dishes and full-flavored cheeses. David Lillie
Julien Guillot's 2014 Les Pierres Bleues is a gorgeous Beaujolais-Villages combining elegance and structure with beautiful fruit, for current drinking and medium-term cellaring. The vines are more than 100 years-old located in the commune of Bully on an ancient volcanic rift. The subsoil is limestone with sandy clay and dark blue metamophic rocks, giving a strong salinity to the wine. The vineyard is in organic/biodynamic farming and the wine is produced in the Vignes du Maynes carbonic method with zero sulfur added. The wine shows deep red/black color, with aromas of spicy blackberry, black cherry, ripe strqwberry and violet with hints of blood orange, graphite and chocolate. The palate is well-structured with chalky acidity supporting dense, earthy red and black fruits and a nice mineral core. The finish is long with ripe fruits, earth and bright acidity. This is a lovely natural wine that should be decanted or opened in advance and will benefit from 3 to 5 years of aging. David Lillie
Julien Guillot makes this lovely natural Chénas with grapes purchased from a friend working organically near La Chapelle-de-Guinchay, with zero added sulfites. (The label was created for the Copenhagen Climate Change Conference in 2009) The 2014 is an intense and beautiful botlle of Beaujolais, showing fresh ripe blackberry with a bit of violet, pepper, musk, earth and citrus. The palate is dense and vibrant with firm acidity and deep blackberry fruit, earth and licorice with saline minerals coating the mouth in the long intense finish. Carafe a few hours in advance if drinking now or cellar 3 to 5 years - drink until 2025.
While the “regular” Morgon is aged entirely in concrete vats before release, Tradition has an extended elévage in neutral barriques before release (think Griffe du Marquis from Alain Coudert). This serves to add depth to the wine, while also softening and rounding it, making for a very unique expression of the Pignards’ terroir. Exuberant on the nose with bright red and black cherry fruit, red licorice, brown spice, and strawberry compote rising from the glass. The palate is broad and supple with bright red fruit flavors along with a hint of fresh cream, tangerine peel, ample minerality, and fine-grained tannins. This wine is definitely structured to age, probably best in 5-10 years, but is lovely now in its energetic youth paired with steaks, game birds, or pork. Tim Gagnon
The Pignards' Regnié is from 50 year-old vines on alluvial clay soils, always giving a well-structured wine. The 2014 shows subtle aromas of ripe red currant and strawberry, very floral and pure. The palate is less fruity, showing stone and mineral flavors with lighter raspberry/strawberry fruit, quite elegant, and finishing with stony acidity. This will need a few years to show at its best but is delicious now in its purity and restraint. Decant if drinking now, best probably 2019 - 2023.
The Pignards work 4.5 hectares in and around Morgon and Regnié. Biodynamic farming, natural fermentations and minimal SO2. We've walked through their vineyards, which are absolutely beautiful — "wine is made in the vineyard" say the Pignards and it shows in the gorgeous fruit and mineral character in their wines. The 2015 Beaujolais-Villages is from 40 to 60 year-old vines on decomposed granite soils in high-elevation parcels above Morgon. The wine shows very bright aromas of strawberry and cherry fruit with violet and citrus, quite pure and lovely. The palate is beautifully balanced for a 2015, at 13 % alcohol, with pretty berry fruits backed by saline minerals and firm acidity. This is "gouleyant" - simply delicious and easy-drinking! Serve quite cool with just about anything, and leave a few in the cellar, as this wine has the structure to age for a few years as well.
Jean-Paul Brun of Domaine des Terres Dorées has 2 parcels of 50 year-old vines on a steep section of Mont Brouilly with a south-east exposition at about 1,000 ft of altitude. The thin soil is almost entirely stones of granite with a high iron content. (A more interesting terroir than the thicker, damper soils of Brouilly.) This is a gorgeous wine! Lovely, ripe blackberry and raspberry/strawberry fruit aromas with a touch of violets and earth. The palate is ripe but balanced (at 12.5% alcohol) with black and red fruit liqueur and fresh citrusy acids that linger in the finish. A beautiful Beaujolais for current drinking and over the next few years. Highly recommended! "Contains very little sulfite," says the label "store in a cool place and consume rapidly after uncorking" We haven't noticed any problem keeping this wine, but consuming rapidly after uncorking will be easy... DL
Located in the village of Charnay in southern Beaujolais, Jean-Paul Brun quietly makes some of the most classic wines of the region on his family’s 40-acre estate. All of the wines are allowed to ferment with native yeasts and minimal amounts of sulfur are employed ensuring fresh, lively wines. Brun’s Beaujolais Blanc is made from 100% Chardonnay that comes from 80+-year-old vines planted in clay and limestone soils. On the nose luscious green apple fruit mingles with poached pear and citrus zest. The palate does have some weight, but this is a lean, sharp wine with a sturdy mineral backbone. It’s really quite amazing to drink such a precise wine for such a value! Tim Gagnon
Located in the heart of Saint-Emilion, certified organic estate Château d'Arcole has farmed 11 hectares of Merlot and Cabernet Franc on limestone and clay for more than 200 years. The grapes are hand-harvested and fermentations are with native yeasts and the wine is bottled without fining or filtration. The 2012 shows lovely aromas of blackberry and cassis with earth, spice and a touch of oak. The palate is balanced and bright with ripe red currant, blackberry and cassis liqueur, with firm acidity and light tannins giving the wine an attactive freshness. With time open the wine deepens and becomes more complex with earth, spice and chocolately black fruits, really lovely and long. Decant and serve cool if drinking now (this will improve with a few days open, re-corked) or cellar for five to fifteen years.
It's always a pleasure to drink a great Bordeaux such as Château La Grolet’s Tête de Cuvée, a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Malbec; it has complex fruit with deep savory layers not clouded by new oak and is certified biodynamic. The nose is dense with intense notes of strawberries and dark cherries with hints of red currants followed by turned earth and resinous herbs. The palate is soft with smooth tannins and fair acidity, showing more of a floral tone of violets and slight notes of leather. After some time open the wine begins to reveal itself; dark red fruit with figs, strong herbal character, and more pronounced florals with delicate tannins. An exciting Bordeaux that could pair well with leaner steak, pork chops on the grill, or savory chicken dishes. Andy Paynter
From clay and gravel soils over limestone in the Côtes du Bourg comes this lovely Bordeaux, roughly 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, certified organic and Biodynamic and produced entirely without sulfur-dioxide or other additives. Pure juice! The 2015 Sans Sulfites Ajoutés is an opaque red/black color with lovely aromas of ripe cassis, red currant and spiced plum with hints of cocoa and earth. The palate is dense and supple with blackberry liqueur, plum skin and ripe red fruits, finishing with firm, refreshing acidity. This is a pure and fruit-forward Bordeaux that's ready to drink - serve cool with anything from Coq au Vin to Steak Frites and flavorful cheeses, or simply enjoy by itself. DL
This 100% Merlot made from young vines in the Biodynamic vineyards at Chateau La Grolet is a delicious and versatile wine, showing lovely ripe cassis aromas with a soft palate of red fruits with plum and spice. Created to drink well young and particularly round and ripe in the 2015 vintage, serve lightly cool with charcuterie, stews, chicken and pork. Produced and bottled with no added sulfites - pure juice!
1986 Haut Bages Liberal — From the plateau de Bages, next to Ch Latour and Ch. Lynch bages and both Pichon Baron and Pichon Lalande, 5th Growth Haut Bages Liberal always delivers classic Pauillac cigar box rich bouquet and deep black fruit flavors at a fraction of the price of its esteemed neighbors.
This impressive Bordeaux comes from an ancient vineyard in Montagne Saint-Emilion, dating back to Roman times, owned by the Despagne-Rapin family since the 1930s. Now certified organic and Biodynamic, the vineyard is roughly 50/50 Cabernet Franc and Merlot grown on limestone with clay and sandy soils. The estate's second label, "Les Piliers," is a dense and well-structured wine in 2010 showing deep red/black color and ripe aromas of blackberry and cassis, dark chocolate and earth, framed in oak. The palate shows deep blackberry liqueur with prune, spice, graphite and citrus. The finish is quite long with pretty black fruits, mineral flavors and firm acidity. This is a solid Bordeaux and an excellent value - try decanting a few hours in advance, serve with a steak, pork or lamb chops...
This excellent organic estate in Pomerol produced an elegant, well structured wine in 2012 featuring lovely aromas of red currant, black cherry, spice, citrus and oak. With aeration the palate becomes fairly soft and supple with berry fruits, earth and mineral flavors, quite fine and well balanced. This is lovely now, preferably with 3 or 4 hours of decanting, best probably 2022 - 2030. Serve with steak with shallots, veal or lamb chops...
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The Hubert family are owners of Chateau Peybonhomme-les-Tours in Blaye and Chateau La Grolet in Bourg. The farming here is among the best in Bordeaux, certified organic and biodynamic. The vineyards are a fantastic oasis of greenery compared to the rest of Bordeaux, and are located on slopes of clay over limestone giving the wines good concentration and firm minerality. From 70% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Malbec. Natural, wild yeast fermentations. Extraordinary quality here for the price. The 2014 Cote de Blaye Cru Bourgeois is a bit more forward than usual, showing deep cassis and red currant aromas, pure and ripe with hints of coffee, prune and spice. The palate is supple and deep with blackberry fruit, chalky minerals and terrific length. Serve slightly cool with anything from roast chicken to steak and full-flavored cheeses. Did we say this is a great value?
What's atypical about this delicious wine? It's a blend of Malbec and Cabernet Franc rather than Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, giving the wine a more supple palate and quite different fruit character. The 2015 has lovely, deep blackberry and cassis aromas with red currant, cassis and cherry on the supple, lush palate, with hints of earth and smoke. More "forward" than most Bordeaux, and showing the ripeness and beautiful fruit of the 2015 vintage, this versatile wine will pair beautifully with almost any beef, pork or lamb dish and is a fabulous value!
Catherine and Jean-Luc Hubert's estate on clay and limestone soils in the Côte du Blaye is certified Biodynamic. For Le Blanc Bonhomme, whole-clusters of grapes undergo spontaneous fermentation with native yeasts before being pressed into concrete vats where it will continue on, and ultimately finish, its journey to becoming a beautiful wine. Their white cuvée is an elegant blend of 50% Sauvignon Blanc and 50% Sémillon. Wonderfully aromatic with white peach blossom and slight hints of tangerine rising from the glass. A deep, chalky minerality takes over on the palate and is accompanied by white fruit and a citrus-tinged acidity. It would pair well with numerous dishes and is very generous enjoyed on its own. An excellent value for an outstanding wine. Tim Gagnon
As much as a rich meal such a Thanksgiving makes one think of richer, more powerful reds, one should never be afraid to use this occasion to embrace the idea of WWWP (white wine whenever possible). Bright acid and minerality will cleanse the palate and can lift the spirits. Organic Burgundy grower Henri and Gilles Buisson produce one of our favorites from their beautiful vines in St. Romain overlooking the Côte de Beaune. The cooler vineyard sites produce nervy white Burgundy which has a great tension between effusive citrus peel and floral perfume and a distinctly mineral palate. The Absolu bottling is made completely without SO2 which lends even more aromatic purity, and greater clarity to the fruit. John McIlwainThe Buisson family is constantly experimenting in the vineyard and the cellar, pushing ever closer towards the goal of not using any chemicals or additives (pesticides, herbicides, sulfur, etc.) during any part of the winemaking process. Obtaining organic certification by ECOCERT in 2009 was a big step in the right direction, and their addition of the two Absolu cuvées to their current lineup of wines is a marked commitment to their efforts. The Absolu Saint-Romain Blanc is vinified the same way as their other cuvées but forgoes the addition of sulfur at bottling. This truly adds another dimension to an already thoughtful and delicious wine giving it an energy and texture that only comes from naturally made wines. Vivid fruit and nut aromas mingle with a delicate spiciness on the nose and the palate is sharp, a touch salty, and very fresh. It’s not often you are able to taste a sulfured wine alongside its sans soufre companion so that makes for a fantastic experiment! Tim Gagnon
From Chardonnay grown on an excellent limestone/clay parcel in Aluze, next to Mercurey. Certified organic, hand-harvested, low yields, very long (10 month) wild-yeast fermentation in barrel, bottled by gravity, unfiltered. This is an outstanding Chardonnay of terroir thanks to the great farming and vinifications at Champs de l'Abbaye. Subtle aromas of stone, white fruits, lemon peel and herbs with a bit of new oak. The palate is intense and crystalline with strong mineral flavors, white fruits, citrus, spice and oak. (We are reminded of the Bourgogne Chitry by De Moor) The finish is dense and long with citrus, pear and stone - this is a serious glass of white Burgundy that will accompany oysters, grilled fish, roast chicken and much more. Not for lovers of Napa Chardonnay....
From a 1/2 hectare parcel of 35 year-old vines in Rully on clay/limestone soils. Aromas of dried pear, herbs, citrus and stone with lime flower and new oak. Intense stone and mineral flavors typical to Rully on the palate with citrus and white fruits. Fabulous stony finish. This is an austere and elegant white Burgundy to drink now in its scintillating youth with oysters, grilled seafod, chicken and goat cheeses. Hold 5 to 10 years for a mature experience.
Comprised of fruit from Bressandes (2/3) which per Claude de Nicolay lends richness and Chaumes, located beneath Les Pougets (1/3) which lends a degree of “saltiness.” The 2014 Corton Blanc shows a lovely balance between power and elegance. Aromatically it shows yellow flowers, orange peel and hints of sea spray and wet stone. The palate displays pretty flavors of stone fruit, Meyer lemon, and apple overlying an overt, if not overwhelming minerality on a medium weight (for Corton) palate. This shows plenty of energy and drive, if not mass, on a long, detailed, and mouthwatering finish. John McIlwain
As easy as it is to forget the quality of Auxey-Duresses Blanc, it's just as easy to overlook the sensational quality of Domaine Lafouge. The Auxey-Duresses Blanc Les Hautés (from the lieu dit situated next to Les Vireuils in Meursault) displays a fine balance of white floral aromas (acacia and honeysuckle) with white orchard fruits on the nose. The palate is racy and mineral with pear and nectarine fruit vying for attention with a good degree of mineral cut. This is pretty and a fine value in white Burgundy. John McIlwain
The 2014 Magnien Aligoté is a bright and lively wine, at 11.5% alcohol, showing herbal, lemon-lime, melon and almond aromas, with pear, mirabelle, stone and ctrus flavors on the fresh, very dry palate. Serve with vegetable soups, fish dishes, quiches and mild cheeses - or make the perfect Kir with 1/5 Creme de Cassis.
Another cracking 2014, Rapet's Combottes has bright aromas of white flowers, honeysuckle, Meyer lemon, citrus pith. The mid-weight palate offers layers of stone fruit, chalk, lemon peel, and quinine, which persist on the long, lithe finish. This is great Combottes and a bargain in white Burgundy. John McIlwain
Jean-Claude Rateau makes lovely wines in the Hautes Côtes de Beaune in his east-facing vineyard of clay/limestone and marne soils. Quite racy and bright even in 2015, the wine shows subtle aromas of lemon,almond, stone, pear and apple. Intense, very mineral palate with pear, citrus and stone flavors and terrific length. Decant or open in advance if drinking now, serve with oysters, grilled seafoods, roast chicken and mild cheeses or cellar for 5 to 8 years. This is a real Chardonnay of terroir and a great value!
Domaine de Roally is one of the great estates of the Macon. The original owner/grower was Henri Goyard, who made old-fashioned Chardonnays with a bit of residual sugar, from his superb organically-tended estate on a limestone ridge overlooking the Saone Valley. Discovered by Joe Dressner in 1987, we made a number of visits there until Goyard's retirement in 2000. Sometimes the juice would still be fermenting after 18 months in tank, and a 1989 tasted in 1999 was simply sensational. Gautier Thevenet of the Domaine Bongran took over in 2000 and has happily kept up the quality and style of Goyard. The 2014 is a fabulous white Burgundy, showing beautiful aromas of ripe pear and apple, lime-flower, lemon zest and honeysuckle, really lovely! There is fabulous density on the palate with pear, citrus, butter and exotic fruit backed by very firm acidity and saline minerals. Gorgeous now, it will age beautifully, perhaps best in 2026? DL
Also made from 100% Chardonnay with zero dosage, this wine spends a full 27 months on the lees before disgorgement. The result is a broad and powerful wine with tropical fruit, green apple, pineapple stalk, orange peel, and a hint of spearmint and lime blossom on the nose. The palate is rich and lush with mango, mandarin orange, and a hint of spicy green walnut coming forward, balanced by a dense mineral core. In fact, it actually reminds me of some of my favorite Champagnes (but for half the price). Céline and Laurent don’t make much of this wine and we are thrilled to have it in magnum size! An elegant but no-fuss wine that should always have a place on your dinner table or at your New Year's Eve party, it would pair well with creamy poultry dishes, whole-roasted fish, or soft, tangy cheeses. Tim Gagnon
Julien Guillot's 2012 Cremant Sainte Genevieve is simply brilliant, showing extraordinary aromas of red fruits, spiced pear and blood orange with hints of cinnamon. The palate is creamy and full, with pear, red currant, honey, stone and brown spice with fabulous length. This is a beautiful living wine from soils that have never been treated with herbicides, pesticides or modern fertilizers. Highly recommended. ** All fruit is from the Clos (25% Pinot Noir, 25% Gamay, 50% Chardonnay).
From a vineyard first planted by the Abbey of Cluny in 900 AD, acquired by the Guillot family in 1952 and always tended with organic methods. On thin clay soils over limestone, organic since 1954, biodynamic since 1998. This is a complex bottle of Chardonnay combining ripeness with firm acidity and great mineral expression, definitely not "typical" of the Mâcon. Aromas of lemon confit, pear, dried herbs, stone, lime-flower and honey. Ripe pear, apple, almond and saline acidity on the palate with pear, citrus and chalky minerals lingering on the finish. A beautiful wine from the living soils at the Clos des Vignes du Maynes, Biodynamic farming, minimal SO2. Serve with full-flavored fish dishes, farm chicken, goat and comté cheeses.
This is a superb, subtle and very mineral Chardonnay from a replanted parcel at the very top of the Clos, abandoned since 1896, with thin clay soils rich in iron over limestone. A great terroir, never chemically treated and worked in biodynamic farming by Alain and Julien Guillot. The 2014 "les Chassagnes" is a beautiful wine! Yields of 18 hl/ha, giving a racy, stony wine with hints of white fruits, spice and honey, the palate is silky and crystalline - all mineral with subtle citrus and white fruits, very long and elegant. Highly recommended! David Lillie
Carved from vineyards once owned by the Benedictine Abbey of Cluny and farmed organically by Julien Guillot's family since 1954, Clos Vignes du Maynes is one of the most distinctive growers in Burgundy. Aragonite comes from 40- to 80-year-old vines high on the slope, on thin soils of clay, crystallized limestone, and laced with other minerals. This wine is incredibly aromatic upon opening with aromas of golden pear, green apple, apricot, white grapefruit, honeysuckle, and bergamot; there is a hint of earthy heather honey and butterscotch. On the palate it is quite rich and luscious, and much more tropical and salty than in years past. In fact, if tasted blind, I could see this being mistaken for a great Chardonnay from the Jura as it has fantastic acidity, and is beautifully textured, long, and mineral. On day two the aromas have softened a bit, and the palate has gained an added savory note that contributes to a still stunningly long finish. The 2015 Aragonite is not to be missed. Tim Gagnon
Sourced from a small plot withing La Fosse, planted in 1959, Venus is named after the draft horse that plowed the vines. The soils are exceptionally chalky relative to the soils of other parts of Avize which have more clay, per Peter Liem. Aged under cork rather than crown cap and bottled without dosage, Venus is profoundly mineral and a study in chalk, with the old vines' deep roots preserving that sense of terroir even in warmer or 'off' vintages.
Mineral is a vintage-dated blend of Chardonnay from two particularly chalky lieux dits within the grand cru villages of Cramant and Avize, with the grapes from Bionnes (Cramant) vinified in demi-muid and Le Champ Bouton (Avize) vinified in tank and blended in equal parts.
Comprised of grapes from all seven villages in the Côte des Blancs, where Agrapart has vines, 7 Crus is a blend of two vintages, aged partially in barrel, partially in tank, disgorged 3/16.
Terroirs is a blend of Chardonnay from multiple parcels like the 7 Crus cuvée, but from older vines planted in mid-slope chalk and clay soils and aged longer on the lees, with some barrel-aged reserve wine lending another layer of complexity.
This is classic Beaufort, balanced, rounded and finely filigreed with a judicious dosage. In truth, the 2009 Ambonnay Grand Cru tastes very dry for a Brut, closer to an Extra Brut in style. It shows a burnished golden yellow in the glass, adorned by a finely beaded and generous mousse. The nose offers notes of brioche, cardamom, cinnamon, roasted chestnuts, white flowers, and honeysuckle. The palate is powerful and broad, accented with aromas of Cortland apples, apple pie, and nutmeg that lead to a lingering, herbal finish. The 2009 Brut shows the pedigree of its Ambonnay Grand Cru fruit. It's delicious now, but it also has real aging potential. (Lot #09A. Disgorged 9/2015.) David Salinas
A 50/50 blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from Beaufort's Grand Cru vineyards in Ambonnay, this is weighty and complex Champagne. The nose begins with aromas of lime zest, red peppercorns, Doyenne du Comice pears, lavender, and red currants that develop into notes of brown sugar, Damask roses, turmeric, and wild flowers. The palate is feathery light and carried by a zing of acidity that parades lime sorbet, freshly minced ginger, quince, lemon icing, and elderflowers through to a McIntosh apple finish. Although clearly ready to drink now, this wine will reach its full potential with a few years in the cellar. (Disgorged 10/16, Lot # 08A). David Salinas
This full-bodied and robust Rosé Champagne is expressive of Pinot Noir character as well as natural and chemical-free winemaking, a rare combination, especially in Champagne. The nose offers ripe sour cherry, cherry pit, quinine, almost Burgundian earthiness, and an ever so slight note of bitter herbs reminiscent of amaro. Cherry fruit carries through the mid-palate to the finish, which is downright tannic, in the best possible way. There is some dosage here, giving the wine a compelling balance of acid and sweetness. It's a fairly serious Rosé Champagne, one that could accompany a meal, but it doesn't present itself as austere in any way. Unique within our selection of Rosé Champagnes and well-worth trying. (Lot 11A. Disgorged 10/2016.)
Bérêche's Campania Remensis is a consistently fascinating rosé Champagne, in a category fraught with uninspiring wines. The 2012 base is 65% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay, and 5% still red wine from Ormes on the western side of the Montagne de Reims. This year the robe is more of a salmon pink rather than copper color of previous vintages. The nose is redolent of wild strawberry, blood orange zest, vanilla bean, raspberry, and ginger. The palate balances whip-crack acidity with layers of ripe fruit flavors and savory undertones. The balance here is impeccable and the finish textured and nuanced. This is a beautiful and deft rosé! John McIlwain
A blanc de blancs with luxurious weight and depth from "Les Monts Fournois," a parcel with the premier cru of Ludes in the Montagne de Reims. With an extremely fine bead, there are intensely rich flavors of lemon drop meringue and candied red fruits (strawberry, cherry) that finish with subtle wisps of dried ginger and dried tarragon. Disgorged 11/15. Jonas Mendoza 2012 is the inaugural vintage of Les Monts Fournois from Bérêche. Sourced from a lieu-dit on the northern end of Ludes with particularly thin soils over pure chalk, and a southern exposure planted with massale-selected Chardonnay in 1961. Fermented in barrel with native yeast and aged under cork, Les Monts Fournois deftly combines power and precision in this blanc de blancs. The nose displays citrus peel, white flowers and wet stone, while the old vines, sunny exposure, and chalky soils lend a distinctly mineral core to the wine on the vigorous, verging on sinewy, palate while not sacrificing elegance. For lovers of chalky, powerful Champagnes, Les Monts Fournois is a delight. Bottled with 3g/L dosage. John McIlwain
Les Beaux Regards is a blend of two parcels of Chardonnay in Ludes on the northern slope of the Montagne de Reims planted in 1964 and 1970. The loamy clay soils produce a Champagne more vinous in character, rather than exclusively taut and chalky. The 2012 displays floral and orchard fruit aromas, with delicate notes of spice and Meyer lemon following. The palate is distinctly mineral and racy, with overtly stony notes, cool notes of mint and lemon balm and a long tangy, expressive finish. Great energy and volume here. (Dosage 3g/l.) John McIlwain
100% old-vine Pinot Meunier sourced from the lieu-dit Le Misy, located in Port à Binson on the southern bank of the Marne river. Fermented with native yeasts in barrel and aged under cork, Bérêche's 2012 base edition of Rive Gauche makes a convincing case for Champagnes made from the oft-underestimated Pinot Meunier grape. The old vines restrict the sometimes overly exuberant quality of the variety, and while the wine shows lovely ripeness, there is a fine, almost briny minerality framing the generous fruit. The nose shows lovely aromas of stone and orchard fruits: white peaches, Rainier cherry, and golden apple, along with baking spice and dried orange peel. Similar fruit notes appear on the medium-bodied palate, with a layered mineral complexity lending structure and energy, not to mention a fine umami quality to the long driving finish. With some time in the cellar, the effusiveness of the fruit should integrate with the structure and make for even more compelling drinking. (disgorged 11/2015, 4g/l dosage) John McIlwain
For holiday celebrations, Champagne is a must. Not just for the festive association of bubbles, but also because it is truly one of the most versatile wines to grace one's table. The inherent acidity of the wine cuts through the richness of the foods, while the bubbles and moderate alcohol invigorate the palate rather than tire it. One of my favorite Champagnes for the table (not just Thanksgiving or Christmas) is Bérêche's Reflets d'Antan. Based on a perpetual cuvée dating from the 1980's, the wine combines the vivid, nervy fruit of a recent vintage with the burnished, textural and aromatic complexity of the aged wines which make up the 'solera.' The secondary fermentation under cork rather than crown cap adds an additional layer of finesse with a delicate bead and soft mousse. This will pair beautifully with most of the foods on your holiday table (skip the marshmallows, please). Better served in a white wine glass to allow the aromas to develop. John McIlwain
Bio Champagne grower Bourgeois-Diaz is located in Crouttes sur Marne on the western edge of the Marne River Valley, where much of the terroir is perfectly suited for the Pinot Meunier grape. Their vines are near those of noted biodynamic grower and Meunier-specialist, Francoise Bedel. Their non-vintage extra-brut cuvee '3C' is named after the three cepages that make up the blend. The current disgorgement, based on the 2013 vintage, is red fruited on the nose and bright, briny, then broad on palate. There is a soft mousse and a rich, not zaftig texture with good cut and freshness. There is a nice sense of harmony on nose and palate. The finish is stony, persistent, with good detail, rising at the end. A fine aperitif and better still with sushi or sashimi (toro spoken here). This offers a great deal of complexity at an attractive price. (Disgorged 2/16/2016, 3g/l dosage.) John McIlwain
Bio Champagne grower Bourgeois-Diaz is located in Crouttes sur Marne on the western edge of the Marne River Valley, where much of the terroir is perfectly suited for the Pinot Meunier grape. Their vines are near those of noted biodynamic grower and Meunier-specialist, Francoise Bedel. Their non-vintage extra-brut cuvee '3C' is named after the three cepages that make up the blend. The current disgorgement, based on the 2013 vintage, is red fruited on the nose and bright, briny, then broad on palate. There is a soft mousse and a rich, not zaftig texture with good cut and freshness. There is a nice sense of harmony on nose and palate. The finish is stony, persistent, with good detail, rising at the end. A fine aperitif and better still with sushi or sashimi (toro spoken here). This offers a great deal of complexity at an attractive price. (Disgorged 2/16/2016, 3g/l dosage.) John McIlwain
Emmanuel Brochet, produces Champagnes of particularly mineral character from the clay and limestone soils of a single lieu-dit called Le Mont Benoit located in the northern part of the Montagne de Reims. The vines are date from 1962 and 1984 and have been farmed organically since 2005 and certified since 2008. The current disgorgement of Le Mont Benoit Extra Brut is based on the the 2013 vintage with reserve wine from the 2012 vintage. The cepage is 39% Pinot Noir 37% Pinot Meunier, and 24% Chardonnay fermented in barrel with native yeasts and bottled with a dosage of 4 grams/L. Newly arrived, the wine is a bit aromatically reticent, though with air reveals pear skin and stony notes. The palate is quite chiseled and vinous, high-lighting a denser rather than chalky minerality or overt fruit. And while powerful, this is quite elegant, if coiled and shows quite long and dry, though not quite austere. Within this structure are lovely notes of blood orange peel, salt, and apricot with hints of autolyse. This is quite young, but has great energy within and will reward mid to longer term aging. John McIlwain
100% Chardonnay from Avize, Le Mesnil, Cramant, and Oger. Base vintage 2009, with the balance made up of wines from 2008 and 2007. Aged in used barrels for 84 months and bottled without dosage. Doyard’s Revolution makes a convincing case for the virtues of Champagne from ripe vintages, seeming rich, yet not weighty. On the nose aromas of sea spray, lemon oil, grapefruit pith dominate, giving way to scents of white flowers and brioche. The palate is taut, chiseled, and stony, though by no means austere with the extra dimension provided by the long less aging in wood. John McIlwain
Made from 100% Chardonnay from organically farmed vineyards in Vertus, Le Mesnil, Orger, Avize, and Cramant, the 2009 base Cuvée Vendémiaire is a must for fans of chiseled, chalky Champagnes from the Côte des Blancs. With long lees aging (60 months, partially in oak), low sulfur, and bottling under lower pressure, this shows a more vinous side of Blanc de Blancs, while offering tremendous value. -John McIlwain
Filaine is one of our favorite Champagne houses. And the singular Fabrice Gass is one of our favorite Champagne characters. His wines are made up of Pinot Noir/Chardonnay/Pinot Meunier from the south-facing village of Damery on the slope of the Montagne de Reims over looking the Marne. The wines are made in the manner of 100 years ago. Fabrice farms the without chemicals, ferments in wood, and due to the age of his barrels, avoids malolactic fermentation. This disgorgement is based on the 2012 and 2011 vintages and balances nicely the classic richness Damery with undertones of minerality. Aromatically the wines offer up aromas of baked apple, spices, and soil notes. On the palate flavors of ripe red fruit and a pervasive sense of chalkiness vie with with a creamy texture on the broad, rich finish. This is a perfect wine for the holiday table with its balance of generous fruit and earthy structure. John McIlwain
Les Houtrantes Complantés is Geoffroy's most viticulturally ambitious and complex Champagne. Sourced from a field blend of old vines of all the allowed Champagne cultivars, there is not enough juice to make a cuvée each year, so JB stores reserve wine from previous vintages in magnums. This first release is a blend of 25% 2008, 35% 2009, and 40% 2010. Quite simply this is one of our most fascinatingly elegant and aromatically beguiling Champagnes. It shows a pale golden yellow in the glass, adorned with a minutely beaded mousse. The nose unpacks an aroma box of linden flowers, sage, hyacinths, fresh mint, followed by Doyenne pears, Reine Claude plums, and a hint of smoky tones. The palate is refreshing stream of minerality, impeccably balanced and ripe for a Brut Nature, that glides and shifts to a saline and savory finish. One can't help but thinking of Rieslings from the great vineyards of Saar Valley. Simply stunning Champagne! (Disgorged 6/2015). - David Salinas
In the sometimes treacherous passage from grapes to wine, Geoffroy's flagship cuvée has been gifted every advantage. 50-year-old vines, on average, from JB's finest plots are used in the 2004's final blend of 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir. At pressing, only the "tête de cuvée" juices, the best juice from the first press, are used. The prise de mousse occurs under cork, not capsule, and the 2004 has aged for almost ten years on it lees to delicious results. It shines a medium golden yellow in the glass, adorned by a discrete mousse. Initial smoky tones, on the nose, give way to aromas of Cortland apples, honeysuckle, Mirabelle plums, and tamarinds. The palate is rich, round, and weighty with notes of green apples, greengages, and vanilla before a tart and smoky finish. (Disgorged 5/2014). - David Salinas
Each of the Huré brothers' "4 Eléments" cuvées are based on a single parcel, single cépage, single vintage, and singular vinification technique with the intention that a singularly distinctive terroir will be articulated with each release. The Pinot Meunier is from vines planted in 1963 in the La Grosse Pierre lieu-dit in Ludes on the north slope of the Montagne de Reims. The vin clair is fermented with native yeasts, does not undergo malolactic fermentation, ages first in demi-muid, then spends 36 months on the lees under cork rather than crown cap, before being bottled with 3/L grams dosage. The 2012 is taut, mineral, and cool-toned on a supple, textured palate offering layers of vibrant stone fruit, crushed herbs, and savory, earthy flavors on a persistent, powerful, driving finish. The terroir and old vines speak here. There is a sapid, nearly saline quality to the wine, which belies the reputation of Pinot Meunier for producing less 'serious' Champagnes. This is Champagne for the table which will shine with roasted fish, root vegetables, or game birds. - John McIlwain
Based on a solera, or perpetual cuvée, started in 1982, the Mémoire Extra Brut is comprised of 45% Pinot Noir, 45% Pinot Meunier, and 10% Chardonnay, aged in foudre and bottled with 3 g/ dosage. The grapes come from all of the various Huré vineyard parcels and the cuvée is considered to be a broad "snapshot" of the domain's terroir and vinification aesthetic. Pale golden yellow in color and with an ultra-fine bead, Mémoire offers soft aromas of Mirabelle plum, dried orange peel, lemon verbena, brown butter, with notes of honey. The palate is creamy, broad, round, and burnished with complex flavors of wild cherry, damson, heather honey, candied ginger, with a pleasing hint of nuttiness on the finish. There are a multiple layers to this Champagne as befits its solera origins and it is better served by enjoying from a wine glass, rather than flute to allow the bouquet to develop fully. - John McIlwain
Entirely Pinot Meunier, this is a notably unique rosé. It's incredibly vinous and is wine — serious wine — before it's rosé or Champagne. But as a saignée Champagne it has delicacy and poise, and yet is serious and structured. It's most curiously savory — our flavor associates included soft cheese, herbs, ferns, sausage, and spices. It is wonderfully dry with chalky minerality on the finish. Not a party Champagne, but one for serious consideration and engagement. Worth contemplation by any serious wine or Champagne lover. MSB
A long time Chambers Street favorite for both value and sheer deliciousness, Lahete's Rose Ultradition displays pretty red fruits, sour cherry, wild strawberry, lemon balm, tangerine peel. Fresh, and lively with a fine bead, brisk acidity, and a long, sapid finish. This has the panache to make a fine aperitif, but also the mineral core and ripe fruit to grace the table with somewhat richer dishes. Roasted salmon, tuna steak, or even duck confit. (Disgorged January, 2015) John McIlwain
60% Pinot Meunier, 30% Chardonnay that doesn't go through malolactic fermentation, along with 10% Pinot Noir. There is a delicate red fruit quality — pale plums — but otherwise the high-toned Chardonnay comes through with a delightful lemon tone. Earthy salinity and minerals lead to a dry, mouth-watering finish. A large percentage of Meunier gives this Champagne a broad, rich, earthy character that matches very well with Beau Soleil oysters and Caviar. MSB
This wine is a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier, with some of the Chardonnay in the blend a rare strain called Chardonnay "Muscaté," which is marked by the exotic flavors of the Muscat grape. These vines of Chardonnay "Muscaté" are very old and massale selected, planted by Aurélian Laherte's grandfather. This wine offers delightful notes of anise, citrus zest, and foxy white flowers on the nose, yet it's a subtle wine with the chalkiness of the soil speaking loudly on the finish, which shows citrus pith and an intriguing note of cherry red fruit. Bottled as an Extra Brut, the wine receives 4 grams dosage. (disgorged 2/12) MSB
If ever there were an argument that portions of Cumières merit Grand Cru status, Laval's Les Chênes makes a convincing case. Made up of 100% organically farmed Chardonnay from the eponymous lieu-dit on the eastern side of the village down by the river where the soils are chalky rather than the clays of other portions of the village, this is particularly powerful blanc de blancs. While the nose offers tropical fruit and citrus aromas, the midweight, sinewy, and broad palate is pungently mineral displaying notes of salt, green tea, and quinine on a driving, powerful, persistent finish. This is certainly delicious now, but tastings of previous vintages of Les Chênes, lead one to believe there is plenty ahead for the patient. John McIlwain
Another impressive bottling from Raphaël Bérêche's Crus Sélectionnés, the 2004 Montagne Grand Cru, from Verzenay on the north slope of the Montagne de Reims displays the characteristic richness of the Pinot Noir-dominated wines of the village. With a golden robe and fine mousse, the Champagne is beginning to hit a fine point of maturity. The nose balances aromas of red fruits, beurre noisette, shortbread, and stone. The palate is supple with fine flavors of dried cherry, apricots, brioche, and dried mint, leading to a detailed, persistent, mineral finish. This shows grand cru volume and length while maintaining plenty of complexity and finesse. (disgorged 01/2016, 5g/l dosage) John McIlwain
Sourced from the grand cru village of Cramant in the Cote des Blancs, La Cote Grand Cru 2007 is beginning to display the aged character of Champagne from the famed village, a balance of mineral precision with the burnished fruit character of long aging sur latte. On the nose lemon oil, honeycomb, and brioche aromas overlay hints of seashell, and stone. The palate shows hints of halzelnut, brown butter, Seville orange, salt, and crushed herbs on a creamy, rich, rounded, finish with fine bead and good persistence. (4g/L dosage, disgorged 01/16.) John McIlwain
Someday soon the Ambonnay Grand Cru lieu-dit of Les Crayères will be spoken of in the same reverential tones as Hermitage’s Les Bessards or Alsace’s Clos Sainte Hune. Similarly, Benoît Marguet will be heralded for having preserved and defended the health of his soils and his vineyard workers. These valuations form a positive feedback loop, where greater care and attention to finely delimited vineyards will help these great terroirs shine. Marguet’s Les Crayères is a blend of 62% Chardonnay and 38% Pinot Noir from an airy, mid-slope vineyard. Light golden in color and starred by a finely beaded mousse, the aromas begin with acacia, ripe raspberries, and honeysuckle before transitioning to Red Delicious and violets. The zero-dosage palate is broad and gripping with notes of dark chocolate, Meyer lemon, and fresh peppermint with a vanilla macaroon and ripe cantaloupe finish. An expressive and uncompromising Champagne of terroir! Disgorged 3/2014. David Salinas
Benoit Marguet is a true believer in the power of biodynamics to change not only wine but the vineyard and life for the better. He is passionate about the relationship between the vigneron, the vines, and his wines. His vineyards are plowed by horse, fermentations are with native yeasts, his wines see little to no sulfur, and his viticulture shows clearly in the finished wines. While the 2011 vintage was difficult for most producers, Marguet's wines were lovely. Les Bermonts is a blanc de blancs from vines planted in 1952 in the grand cru Ambonnay, unusual as the village is more notable for Pinot Noir. Les Bermonts is chalky and mineral, showing the power of Ambonnay, while also showing an incisive minerality, which drives the wines. This shows citrus blossom and chalky on the nose, while the broad palate is saline, textured, and savory. This will benefit from time in the cellar and is a compelling expression of the terroir of the Montagne de Reims. John McIlwain
At least for me, Marguet’s Champagnes have been about power and opulence, which isn’t surprising given winemaker Benoît Marguet has 10 hectares of vines, mainly in the grand crus of Ambonnay and Bouzy. With preserved lemon and powdered ginger notes, the “Shaman” (formerly named “Elements”) finishes with striking flavors of lemon pith and fresh dill. An unwittingly complementary pairing with tzatziki or taramosalata. Disgorged 2/16. Jonas Mendoza
A rich and effervescent rosé (70% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Noir) with all the fruit sourced from the Grand Cru of Ambonnay. There are delicate notes of wild red cherry and fresh strawberry tops, which sharply unfurls with richly concentrated flavors of ripe Tri-Star strawberries and candied cherry. Bold and powerful enough to have with a rare steak! Jonas Mendoza
There are no two ways about it. This is a natural Champagne made from biodynamically farmed Pinot Noir and then vinified with native yeasts for both the alcoholic fermentation and the prise de mousse. Finally, the Concordance is free of any added sulfur. The Aube's warmer climate and Dominique's great farming have resulted in a Blanc de Noirs that will settle any doubts about the quality of the 2011 base vintage. Pale golden yellow in the glass and sporting a finely beaded mousse, the aromas of the Concordance are strikingly pure and vibrant with notes of ripe Cortland apples, red currants, fresh raspberries and a hint of brioche. The palate is pure with a fine minerality that carries aromas of cranberries and red plums through to a lengthy and savory finish. Beautiful Champagne! (Dosage : Zero, Disgorged : 1/2015). - David Salinas
Over the course of time, Jose Michel's NV Brut has become one of our favorite affordable Champagnes. It's a wine that has something for everyone: accessibility for those who like easy-going bubbles, savory-ness for those who drink Champagne at the table, complexity for those who value it... Some Champagne is rich, some is elegant, but this bottle is explosive and animated. Packed with fruit — peach, raspberry, and strawberry — but held in balance with creamy straw and cashew-y notes, and a strong backbone of acidity. This is an epicurean, food-friendly Champagne that is simply delicious and perfect for toasting. (The price is simply unbeatable.) MSB
Sourced from less than a hectare parcel of old-vine Pinot Noir, the Come des Tallants is the jewel of Roland's range. Beginning with a crystalline clear and brilliant golden yellow in the glass and very finely beaded mousse, the nose shows aromas of Greengage, lillies, spearmint, toffee, guava, and some musky tones. The palate is finely chiseled with a nervy minerality, buoyed by a weighty concentration and a full aromatic range of wild flowers, which continues through to a finely pointed finish. A fantastic effort and Champagne from Roland Piollot! (Dosage : Zero, Disgorged : 7/2015). This beautiful Champagne is a superb value and a great way to start, or enjoy during your holiday feast!
An organically-farmed Blanc de Noirs from the eponymous lieu-dit in the premier cru village of Mareuil-sur-Aÿ. The wine is a notable expression of this terroir, as Fabrice Pouillon reveals by vinifying with only the natural sugars from perfectly ripe Pinot Noir, in addition to only utilizing the indigenous yeasts present in the must. He accomplishes this by chilling unsulfured grape must in tank to a temperature low enough to prevent spoilage or fermentation. This must is then used for the secondary fermentation, as well as the dosage after disgorgement, rather than cane sugars or MCR. The resulting wine is layered and supple with a fine bead, displaying red fruits, blood orange peel, and spices, expressing the vinous character of Pinot Noir grown in the clays of the Grande Vallee de la Marne. John McIlwain
100% Chardonnay from the well-situated Les Valnons Froid Cul lieu-dit on the upper slope of the Grand Cru village of Aÿ. Fermented with native yeasts in 80% used barrels, the balance in tank. Disgorged in Spring 2016, Dosage 5g/l. Les Valnons is a lovely, albeit somewhat atypical Blanc de Blancs from a village better known for its Pinot Noir. The robe on the 2008 has a pale gold color with a fine bead. This nervy Chardonnay offers aromas of chalk, lemon oil, quinine, and crushed herbs the palate is broad and powerful offering citrus, spice, and mineral notes on a taut, complex, and detailed finish. John McIlwain
Located in the hills above Essoyes, Ruppert-Leroy's vines are a study of polyculture, in contrast to most of the vineyards of Champagne. All are adjacent to forest, with dozens of herbs, wildflowers, grasses growing between the rows. In the Spring, there is a riot of color between the vines. Martin-Fontaine is 100% Chardonnay, fermented with native yeasts, bottled without dosage as of the 2013 vintage sees no addition of sulfur. We are lucky to be able to revisit the 2011, which is in a beautiful place at the moment, with a nose redolent of shortbread, lemon curd, and wet stone. The palate is stony, saline, and quite savory with umami notes vying for attention with pure flavors of ripe white orchard fruits. Quite pretty and detailed, this shows the potential of the terroir in this part of the Aube. John McIlwain
Hubert Soreau is is a vigneron whose wine exemplifies the dedication of small growers to producing distinctive Champagnes of terroir. Farming .49 ha near Epernay without chemicals, he produces tiny amounts of wine which ages in wood, sees long less aging under cork, and extended time in the cellar before release. The current Release of Le Clos l'Abee (base 2008 with this bottling) is vinous, waxy, layered, and burnished with plenty of savory and umami notes complementing the incisive minerality from the terroir. The aromatics balance yellow fruit and citrus peel with brioche and soil notes. This is a treat for fans of leesy, chalky Champagnes. There is a fine bead and a long, broad, elegant finish. (Dosage 5g/l; Disgorged Fall 2015) John McIlwain
There's a great deal to admire in the Champagnes and ethic of Aurelien Suenen. His wines combine beautiful fruit with a frank minerality in a graceful way. This results from conscientious farming (Suenen has been in transition to organic certification since 2009), deft work in the cellar (native yeast fermentation, natural malolactic fermentation, moderate use of sulfur, and dosage determined by blind tasting trial). Aurelien's inaugural village releases display his desire to release Champagnes that articulate a sense of place. He notes that in Cramant there is different terroir expression in the wines from the high vineyards and the lower lying vineyards, with the vines planted in the latter proving to be more distinctly mineral. C + C, a blend of wines from Chouilly and Cramant is richer and more briny than the Oiry bottling. The nose offers an intoxicating blend of lemon blossom, sea spray, and apricot aromas, while the palate is incisively chalky, pungently stony, and taut. This is not to say this is austere, rather brisk and punchy with great persistence on the long, sapid finish. John McIlwain
The 2013 vintage is the inaugural release of Aurelien Suenen's Grand Cru Oiry Blanc de Blancs. Wines from the village of Oiry are typically sold under the Cramant designation (we haven't been able to find another Champagne with this single village designation, as yet), so this is a fine opportunity to taste Oiry's distinctive, chalky terroir. Aurelien's parcels contain some very old Chardonnay vines which make for some pungently mineral, stony wines. The vins clairs are fermented partially in barrel, spend nine months on the lees, and are bottled with 1 g/l dosage. The 2013 is brisk, briny, and fresh on the nose with aromas of citrus peel, quinine, and chalk dominating. The palate is chiseled, taut and very dry with racy acidity and an energetic driving finish. Suenen continues to grow with each vintage and this new line up of village designated Champagnes are particularly exciting. John McIlwain
Aurélien Suenen originally trained in the US to become a professional basketball player, but returned to France to take over the estate in 2009 when his father passed away. "MBDA" is one of his first cuvées; besides a longing tribute to four generations of Suenen (Marcel, Bernard, Daniel, Aurélien) that have farmed in Champagne since 1898, it represents a precocious and stunning effort. MBDA is a blend of nearly equal parts Pinot Noir (from Montigny-sur-Velse) and Chardonnay (from grand cru sites Cramant, Chouilly, and Oiry). Enticing at first with golden apple, candied ginger, and brioche aromatics, this Champagne fills out the palate with bruised red apple skin, yellow plum, and toast flavors, and then finishes with shaded undertones of dried honey and roasted parsnip. Texturally, the soft mousse floats like a featherweight on the center of the tongue, but then broadly fills out across the palate. Jonas Mendoza
The cuvée Milliane Bourgonge rouge from grower Gabriel Billard offers everyday value in red Burgundy combining fruit with both substantial structure and complexity. Earthy rather than overtly fruity on the nose, it shows damp soil, red florals and a whiff of leather followed by faint cherries. Dark red fruit is dense on the palate and high-toned with fuji apples, bing cherries, and raspberry along with woody herbs. Quite tannic and aromatically tight when freshly opened, the structure softens and the fruit becomes more prominent with an hour or so in a decanter. I served it with braised chicken legs and mushrooms brightened with lemon and spring herbs but it would be excellent with cedar plank salmon or a burger right off the grill. Open early and enjoy! - Andy Paynter
From .38 HA biodynamically farmed vines averaging over 40 years old, high on the hillside of Corton. Traditionally the most powerful and stern of the stable of red Corton lieu-dits at Chandon de Briailles. 80% whole cluster fermentation. There’s a fair bit of reduction to this initially, but with a long decant this recedes to reveal aromas plummy black fruit, animale funk, black tea, and fresh-turned earth. In the mouth ripe red/black fruit flavors mingle with pungent minerality on the vibrant mid-weight palate. There is good sap and firm, but ripe tannins supporting the fruit on the long, substantial finish. This has real class and should be sensational after 10-15 years in the cellar. John McIlwain
While the jewel of the premier crus of Pernand-Vergelesses, like Les Lavières, the Ile de Vergelesses vineyard suffered substantially from the hail of 2013. Another in a series of what Claude de Nicolay refers to as “virtual vintages” only half the normal crop was harvested in the 2014 vintage. In light of the vintage character, fermentation was 40% whole cluster with a somewhat shorter elevage to emphasize the beautifully pure fruit. Here the nose shows a blend of black fruits, wood smoke, baking spices, and faint hints of anise. The mid-weight palate features blackberry, cassis, and blood orange flavors giving way to a pungent, nearly saline minerality, which carries thru on the persistent, sapid finish. This has impeccable balance, if not the power of more blockbuster vintages. This is attractive and has plenty of drive and detail to frame the pure, pretty fruit. John McIlwain
After serious devastation by hail in 2013 when Les Lavières was not bottled (but made into something akin to a vin doux naturel, which has yet to be bottled) 2014 produced a lovely, if substantially reduced crop from the cru. 20% whole cluster fermentation with no chaptalization and bottled at 12.3% abv. The 2014 Les Lavières is pretty and detailed, rather than powerful. The aromas are cool-toned and red-fruited, with hints of strawberry and wild cherry. The racy, supple palate has flavors of red raspberry, cherry, and pomegranate supported by fine, ripe tannins and bright acidity. And while this is no heavyweight, the purity of the fruit and the lively energy makes this a pleasure to taste and the structure certainly bodes well for mid-term ageability for this agréable à boire Burgundy. John McIlwain
Certified organic and farmed with biodynamic methods, Domaine Chevrot is one of the gems of Maranges. The lieu-dit Sur le Chêne is a south-facing plot on gravelly limestone on the eastern side of the appellation. The fruit from the 50-60 year old vines is hand-harvested, fermentation is 50% whole cluster, and the wine aged for 11 months in 15% new oak. The 2014 has aromas of red fruits, black tea, and orange peel with hints of smoke and spice. The medium weight palate balances red cherry and raspberry flavors with earthy notes and medium-grained tannins on a medium long finish. This offers a nice balance of fruit and Maranges minerality at an affordable price point. Decant now before serving or cellar for 5-9 years. -John McIlwain
La Chapelle is a "climat" within Les Breterins and Reugne, on the steep slope of la Montagne de Bourdon, facing south/southeast. The vines are well-placed in mid-slope and are mostly sixty years-old, giving the most "generous" of the three Lafouge premier crus. The 2014 "La Chapelle" shows a bright red/garnet color and lovely aromas of strawberry and tart cherry - very floral and bright with hints of citrus and earth. There is excellent ripeness on the palate with chalky raspberry and cherry fruit, citrus and mineral flavors - quite elegant and very long with firm acidity, bright red fruits and minerals in the finish. Delicious now served a bit cool with coq au vin, blanquette de veau or rabbit, probably best from 2020 to 2030 - kudos to Jean and Gilles Lafouge for another lovely "La Chapelle!" DL
This is one of our favorite, if somewhat unknown, estates in Burgundy. Jean Lafouge and his son Gilles make classic, balanced, beautiful Burgundies at affordable prices and their village level Auxey-Duresses is always lovely and a great value. The 2014 is slightly riper than usual with lovely aromas of strawberry and tart cherry, with violet, rose, citrus and spice. Medium-bodied, with citrusy red fruits on the palate with great balance and refreshing acidity, the wine shows hints of earth and mineral that will develop nicely with time. Lovely now, especially if decanted well in advance, and a great pairing with poultry, white meats and mild cheeses. This has the weight and structure to cellar well, best perhaps in 5 to 8 years. David Lillie
Les Chanlins, a premier cru bordering Volnay, expresses the prettier side of Pommard. A continuation of Volnay Pitures (formerly known as Volnay Chanlins until 2006), the vineyard is steep with more limestone and pebbles rather than clay, producing wines which are typically more generous than backwards. "Chanlins is one of the most inherently elegant terroirs in Pommards, and the style of the vineyard dovetails with the Lafouge style of winemaking" writes John Gilman. From a small parcel of old vines, the Lafouge 2014 Chanlins shows beautiful aromas of bright red fruits - raspberry, tart cherry and wild strawberry - with earth, citrus, rose, brown spice and game. Lovely tart red fruits on the palate with firm acidity and intense chalky minerality that coats the palate on the long finish. This is a lovely, pure and elegant old-fashioned Burgundy - delicious now with its bright, youthful fruit, best probably 2022 to 2032. DL
"This is absoutely the heartland of Beaune, with the richest, most structured and longest-lived wines of the appellation" – Inside Burgundy. The Rapet's tiny parcel of Les Grèves is all old-vines on a steep section giving beautifully aromatic wines that have great tannic structure for aging. This is particularly outstanding in 2011, with deep, elegant strawberry, black cherry and earth aromas. The palate is medium-bodied, with superb red and black fruits, terrific intensity and length with stone and fruit lingering. Not a "big" wine but a real wine of terroir with great structure and balance. Hold for 6 to 8 years, drink until 2030.
(The 2014s have arrived - take advantage of this discounted price on the last of our 2013s! ) From 50-year-old vines in Sur-les-Grèves in the heart of the Beaune 1er crus. Like many of the 2013 Burgundies, the Rapet Beaune Grèves 1er cru is a wine of delicacy and purity of fruit, rather than power. But oh, what fruit! The nose shows dark-fruited with aromas of black cherry liqueur, blackberry, and notes of black tea, tree bark, and crushed herbs. The mid-weight palate displays more pure fruit flavors of black cherry, wild blackberry, and a pretty sense of ripeness which is balanced by a good deal of mineral cut and ripe tannins. Despite a somewhat lighter profile, this finish is quite persistent and builds, While this will improve in bottle, with air this is quite enjoyable at the moment and well-suited to lighter pork dishes, roast chicken, and even heartier fish dishes such as monkfish or skate and mushrooms in a red wine reduction which cry out for a visit to our friends at Blue Moon Fish. - John McIlwain
From old vines on fairly deep iron-rich soils south of the village in three different parcels, Les Boutieres, Les Citernes and Les Combes. Always a ripe, powerful wine, the 2014 Rapet Aloxe-Corton is well-structured for aging and beautifully balanced with firm acidity and the pretty fruit of this vintage that was saved by ample sunshine from mid-August into October. The wine shows elegant aromas of ripe black cherry and blackberry with hints of violet and earth. On the palate there is an intense fusion of mineral flavors with ripe blackberry and red currant fruit, sappy and long, framed in firm acidity and ample tannin. This is a big, age-worthy Aloxe that will be quite beautiful when mature, best perhaps 2020 - 2030 and beyond. Quite enjoyable now in its intense youth, decant well in advance or open the night before... David Lillie
Upon opening Rapet's Grèves is a bit circumspect: initially showing a lot of hedge fruit, wood smoke, soil notes. Nose and palate open to reveal dark fruits, a bit of bramble, sous-bois, spice, cherry pit, and mineral spice. Some structure here, but with fine poise. There's a lovely sweetness within the tannins which bodes well for some time in the cellar to allow all the elements to knit. Near term patience should be well rewarded. Decant now or cellar for 3-5 years and enjoy over the next 10 years. Made a fine pairing with a salad of frisée, duck confit, toasted pecans, and a sherry vinaigrette. John McIlwain
Ile des Vergelesses is certainly one of the best premier cru vineyards in Burgundy - a perfectly exposed mid-slope vineyard on limestone and iron-rich soils, steep enough for ideal drainage, producing wines that age beautifully for 15 to 20 years - considered by many to be grand cru quality. The 2014s from Vincent Rapet are lovely, beautifully balanced wines. The 2014 Ile des Vergelesses shows very bright perfume of wild strawberry, black raspberry, rose, pepper and licorice. The palate is very dense with elegant, chalky red fruits that coat the palate. This should develop beautifully - it's perfectly balanced at 13% alcohol with firm acidity - well structured for aging. Fun to taste now, especially if decanted or opened the night before, probably best 2022 - 2035. David Lillie
From vines grown in the calcareous clay soils of Les Reversées premier cru toward the bottom of the hill in the center of the slope by Les Teurons. The 2008 shows the cool-toned precision of the vintage. The nose displays dusty black cherry and hedge fruit aromas with notes of herbs and wood smoke. The palate is overtly mineral and savory, with complex soil notes and crushed herbs giving way to more cherry fruit, red currant, orange peel, iron and spice on a mid-weight and persistent finish. This still has a bit of structure to resolve, but it is intriguingly sapid, and satisfyingly earthy. Best now with a decant, better still in 3-5 years. This would pair beautifully with hanger steak and shallots, pasta with wild mushrooms, or roasted guinea hen. John McIlwain
From a steep clay/limestone slope facing east in the 1er Cru Les Bressandes, this is an old fashioned wine of terroir. It's subtle on the nose, but smells elegantly perfumed and structured. On the palate, dried fruit, herbs, and earth. This is not a tough wine, rather finessed in fact without overly ripe tannins, but it is a serious wine, and one that stands out amongst the more red-fruit driven 2015s. Perhaps due to how hot 2011 was early on (it was one of about 6 recorded years since the 1700s when harvest began in August in Burgundy), the fruit here is mature, and quite developed, but balances perfectly with the earthiness and mineral qualities of the wine. It's in a great place now, as it really reminds us of aged Burgundy, but it will be even better when it IS aged Burgundy! We'd recommend drinking now or holding 5-10 years.
Jean-Claude Rateau's domain has been Biodynamic since 1979 and produces lovely light-bodied, old fashioned Burgundies. The 2014 Beaune Les Prévoles (a lieu-dit below 1er Cru Chouacheux and les Tuvilains) shows beautiful aromas of cherry and berry fruits with rose, blood orange and brown spice. The palate is chalky, ripe and sapid while remaining light and fresh with berry fruits and tart citrusy acids. This develops nicely with aeration, becoming more supple and round, and finishes with stone, mineral and ripe fruits. Serve this delicious wine a bit cool with any mild chicken or white meat dish and goat cheeses, morbier, tomme de savoie. This should age nicely, best perhaps 2020 - 2026.
Located toward the bottom of the slope beneath Beaune Grèves and adjacent to Les Cents Vignes, Clos des Mariages is a mix of young and very old vines planted in clay and limestone soils. The 2015 expresses the prettier character of Beaune, with lovely wild strawberry, raspberry, and spice aromas giving way to notes of turned earth. The silky mid-weight palate shows sour cherry, wild raspberry, brambles, black tea, and chalky minerality on a long, supple, layered finish. There is a good sense of freshness, energy, and sap here. And while this is generous with its fruit at present, the balance is there for mid-term aging. Perfect for grilled pork medallions or braised chicken in mustard sauce. John McIlwain
From a small parcel of 50 year-old vines in AOC Hautes Côtes de Beaune, certified biodynamic, "lyre ouverte" pruning. Lovely light garnet color; subtle, delicate aromas of red fruits and flowers - quite complex and pretty with good ripeness in this excellent vintage - raspberry, tart cherry and blackberry. The palate is light but full-flavored and lovely with pure ripe red fruits, finishing with bright acidity and saline minerals. This is a subtle and delicious glass of Burgundy, at only 12% alcohol even in 2015 - enjoy now served cool or wait 5 to 8 years for a mature experience.
From vines averaging 40 years old from the lieux-dits Bussières, Chardannes, Les Herbues and Les Gamaires. Certified biodynamic. Domaine Arlaud's 2014 Chambolle-Musigny shows plenty of high-toned red fruit on the nose with aromas of pomegranate, wild cherry, and strawberry with hints of wood smoke and floral notes. On the sappy, mid-weight palate, pure red fruit flavors are underlain by a pungent chalky minerality which persists through on the long, fresh, tangy finish. This is classically Chambolle: stylish and pretty with good depth. Give this 3-5 years and enjoy for the next 10-15. John McIlwain
When it comes to Marsannay, Domaine Bart's selection of crus is an embarrassment of riches. Au Champ Salomon, one of their best, is located in a prime spot on the mid-slope, producing wines which marry power with elegance and longevity. The grapes from 35-year-old plus vines are hand harvested, fermented with native yeasts, aged for 18 months in barrel of which only 30% are new. The 2014 is another lovely expression. The nose offers cool-toned aromas of red and black cherry, red plum, brambles, and hints of cedar evolving to show dark soil notes. On the full-bodied and structured (in terms of Marsannay) palate, flavors of red and black stone fruit dominate with wild cherry and plum, giving way to grilled meat and earthy notes on a long, succulent, and persistent finish. There is a deft interplay between the pure fruit, tangy acid, and tannins which should evolve to show greater complexity still with 5-7 years in the cellar and beyond. This is not only a splendid 2014, but a great value in Burgundy. John McIlwain
This excellent east-facing vineyard on the upper slope in Marsannay has shallow soils loaded with marine fossils and gives a light-bodied aromatic wine. The vines average about 40 to 50 years-old, a mix of clones, massale selection and pinot fin. A bit riper than usuual in 2014, the Bart Echezots shows pretty aromas of strawberry and red currant with brown spice, violet and citrus. Strawberry and cherry fruit on the palate with spice and citrus, round and pretty with firm, earthy acidity and red fruits in the finish. This is a nice glass of Burgundy at a reasonable price - serve cool and enjoy over the next five years. DL
From 8 lieux-dits from across Gevrey-Chambertin. Considering the escalation in prices at all levels in Burgundy, Louis Boillot's Gevrey-Chambertin remains a fantastic value, brimming with Gevrey character, while remaining affordable. The 2014 is heady, fresh, and cool-toned on the nose offering black cherry, plum skin, raspberry, game and woodsmoke aromas. Dark-fruited and savory flavors intermingle on the medium-bodied palate, with ripe notes of black cherry, hedge fruit, cherry pit, and crushed herbs. There is good mineral detail to this lending a sapid counterpoint to the fruit. Nice freshness here with fine structure lending an earthy, masculine Gevrey character. This punches above its weight and should reward 4-5 years of cellaring and drink beautifully for the next 10. John McIlwain
From a .19 hectare plot beneath the Combe de Lavaux, Champonnet is the coolest of Louis Boillot's parcels. The 2014 Champonnet is effusively perfumed with complex floral and dark fruit aromas in addition to hints of grilled meat and cocoa bean. The palate is stony and grippy, with pungent earth notes dominating, followed by dark fruit flavors of black raspberry, black currant, and cassis. Still more layers of fruit and soil notes are revealed on the tangy, long, suave, detailed finish. It will take a few years in the cellar for this to integrate, but this should age beautifully. John McIlwain
From .23 hectare of vines dating back to 1948 between the parcels farmed by Gouges and Regis Forey. Les Perrières high on the slope between Les Poulettes and Les Poirets. The soil contains many stones which retain heat and Christophe Drag says this is the first vineyard harvested after the Bougogne. As Clive Coates has noted, somewhat atypically for Nuits St. Georges, the wines from this climat are more floral and feminine though certainly displaying great minerality. The 2012 Les Perrières is effusively floral with cherry blossoms and white flowers giving way to bright, pure cherry aromas and notes of spice. In the mouth it shows pretty black cherry, herb, and minerals on a medium bodied, but fine, palate with good sap and excellent energy following through on the lilting finish. John McIlwain
It's no secret that the Jean Chauvenet's 2012 Nuits St. Georges Les Perrières was one of my favorite red Burgundies of the vintage. The 2013 is another winner for the domaine. Chauvenet's Christope Drag farms a .23 hectare parcel of old vines high on the slope adjacent to Les Poulettes and Les Poirets between the holdings farmed by Henri Gouges and Regis Forey. The particularly stony soils retain heat and Christophe says this is typically the first vineyard harvested after the Bourgogne. Personally I find it the most effusively perfumed of his wines with his Vaucrains a close second. The bouquet of the 2013 leaps from the glass, with floral aromas, red fruits, and pretty wild berry aromas, giving way to spices and soil notes. The palate is equally fresh, with red berry, strawberry, Morello cherry, and pipe tobacco flavors giving way to a chalky minerality. There is fine energy and cut to this which carries through on a long, lingering, and building finish. This is certainly a pretty expression of Nuits St. Georges, but has the tannins and acidity to age with grace. John McIlwainFrom .23 hectare of vines dating back to 1948 between the parcels farmed by Gouges and Regis Forey. Les Perrières high on the slope between Les Poulettes and Les Poirets. The soil contains many stones which retain heat and Christophe Drag says this is the first vineyard harvested after the Bougogne. As Clive Coates has noted, somewhat atypically for Nuits St. Georges, the wines from this climat are more floral and feminine though certainly displaying great minerality
Jane et Sylvain have a superb, tiny parcel of Gevrey 1er Cru "Fontenys", high up in the southwest, separated from Grand Cru Ruchottes by a dirt track. They are certified organic and age the wine in old barriques. The 2013 is a bit coiled upon opening, but with an hour or so of air opens to reveal cherry and red berry fruit, wet bark, savory earth, and spice notes on the nose. The palate has good density offering sappy cherry fruit, lively acids, and dark-toned minerality with firm but ripe tannins and a very long, savory finish. This is a classy Gevrey which will need 5-8 years to come together but should drink beautifully for another dozen years after that. John McIlwain In January of 2014, I tasted the 2002 Gevrey 1er Cru Fontenys in the cellar with Jane and Sylvain.Their eldest son was born in 2002, so they saved a bunch for him, but were generous enough to share one with my father and me. It was transcendental - what I refer to as my "religious experience" with red Burgundy, and possibly one of the most memorable wines I've ever tasted. Flowers, stones, dried fruit, the subtle touch of tannin... truly a blissful experience. Jane says the wine has "la finesse du Ruchottes," referring to the Grand Cru vineyard that is literally feet away from the edge of their vines in the Premier Cru Fonteny. Unfortunately we don't have any of the 2002 at Chambers, but the 2013 is a great purchase for the cellar - patience will reward you if you can wait for it to develop. Eben Lillie
The vines are in the lieu-dit "Queue de Hareng" below an old quarry at the top of the slope in Brochon, next to Fixin 1er Cru "la Perrière," on red/brown soils of mountain silt and limestone pebbles over the limestone bedrock. Always giving an earthy and mineral-infused wine, the 2014 is a bit more fruit-forward but is still primarily a Burgundy of terroir. There is reduction when first opened so please decant or open in advance. With aeration the wine shows subtle aromas of red currant, strawberry and tart cherry with violet, brown spice and earth - really quite complex and pretty. The palate is well-structured with chalky mineral flavors underlying the earthy raspberry and strawberry fruit. The finish is long with firm acidity and mineral notes. This is a lovely and beautifully balanced Burgundy for those who enjoy minerals as much as fruit! Note: The wine improves dramatically over 3 to 4 days, re-corked in the fridge, for those with enough patience - or cellar for five to fifteen years.
From 45 to 60 year-old vines, certified organic, mostly in En Pallud (below 1er Cru les Corbeaux). The 2014 Gevrey shows a light red/black color, aromas of morello cherry, red currant and raspberry with hints of earth, stone, violets, black pepper and licorice. The palate is dense but light with cherry, red-currant, earth, citrus and mineral flavors with berry fruits and saline minerals lingering in the finish. Ripe but not a fruit-bomb - a red Burgundy of terroir that is delicious now, but should become a beautiful, old-fashioned wine when mature, best perhaps 2021 - 2030. On day two the wine has deepened with very sappy black and red fruits, quite dense and earthy. Lovely wine from living soils and quite a different style than modern Burgundies. David Lillie
Jane et Sylvain have a superb, tiny parcel of Gevrey 1er Cru "Fonteny", high up in the southwest corner, separated from Grand Cru Ruchottes by a dirt track, certified organic. Four barrels of 2014 Fonteny were produced, of which one was new. Tasted last February the wine showed dense, deep strawberry and black chery fruit with round supple tannins and a very long firm, palate coating finish. Re-tasted in November 2016, the round strawberry fruit is framed in chalky minerals, quite dense and palate-coating, balanced with soft tannins - a very young wine that will be delightful to drink now but best to wait five to ten years for the velvety complexity to come, best perhaps 2021 to 2035. David Lillie
From mixed limestone and clay soils in premier crus Clos Baulet and Les Gruenchers, which bracket Clos Sorbe beneath the village of Morey-Saint-Denis. Another lovely wine from Stephane Magnien. Ruby in color and medium-bodied. This is quite perfumed immediately upon opening; red fruits and flowers dominate. Wild strawberry, red plums, dried rose aromas are followed by hints of bergamot and spices. The energetic palate balances ripeness and structure. There is lovely rich fruit here with offsetting earthiness. The dry extract and ripeness buffer ripe tannins and there is a beautiful purity of fruit. The finish is long and complex with discreet oak. Enjoyable now, but should become lovely with a few years in the cellar. JCM
Les Sentiers premier cru is located on the north side of Chambolle-Musigny, beneath the Bonnes Mares Grand Cru and between the Les Baudes and Les Ruchots premier crus. Medium dark robe. The 2013 Les Sentiers shows a nice balance between fruit and earth. Raspberry, violet, spices, with hints of game and herb on the nose. Dark cherry, black tea, and blood orange peel on the sappy, yet chalky, mineral palate. As befits the cru's proximity to Bonnes Mares, this is a more masculine expression of Chambolle-Musiginy. There's good concentration of fruit here, in addition to distinct terroir delineation; with still more to be revealed as the structure resolves itself further. Decant now or better still, hold for 5 to 15 years. John McIlwain
This is a great Bourgogne Passetoutgrain from the young and very capable Stephane Magnien, whose great vineyard work and un-forced vinifications are producing superb, elegant Burgundies. The 2014 Cuvée Densité is from older vines of Pinot Noir and Gamay and gets a longer élevage than his "regular" Passetoutgrain. The palate is round and elegant with cherry and strawberry compote and earthy flavors but it's well-structured and refreshing with nice finishing acidity—really a lovely everyday Burgundy at a great price! Serve cool and enjoy. Decant for best drinking or open the day before as this "serious" Passetoutgrain will benefit from aging....
This a wonderful expression of Les Sentiers, aromatically expressive and layered. There are bright aromas of black cherry, raspberry, violets, woody herbs, and game on the nose. The mid-weight palate initially shows brambly black fruits, and pungent soil flavors. With time in the glass notes of dark cherry and cherry pit appear along with a savory ferrous minerality and spice notes. The tension between fruit and earthiness is compelling and will gain in complexity with time in the cellar. More expressive on the second day. If enjoying now, decant for several hours or revisit in 7-10 years and enjoy for the decade following. John McIlwain
From very old vines planted by Stephane's grandfather, the Magnien Chambolle-Musigny Vieilles Vignes is a lovely combination of finesse and ripeness.The wine shows subtle, very complex aromas of violet, rose, wild strawberry and raspberry with hints of earth, licorice and spice, with truffle and black fruits emerging with time open. The palate is elegant and sappy with blackberry and ripe strawberry, citrus and spice, with terrific length on the very mineral finish. This is a beautiful and well-structured Chambolle that is delicious now, best 2020 to 2030. Lovely wine!
The young and very talented Stephane Magnien is producing delicious, old fashioned Burgundies from his beautifully tended vineyards in and around Morey-Saint-Denis. The estate has never used herbicides and uses a plowing regimen designed to force the roots deeper into the limestone bedrock. The "village" wine is always one of my favorite recommendations in Burgundy due to its elegance, balance, lovely fruit and great value. The 2014 is particularly beautiful, with lovely aromas of strawberry liqueur, black raspberry, violet, blood orange - very floral with hints of earth, brown spice and oak. Great balance of firm acidity and ripe fruit with a touch of oak on the palate showing strawberry, blackberry, citrus and spice over a core of mineral flavors that linger in the long finish. This delicious young Burgundy is lovely to drink now but has all the elements for great medium-term aging - wait a few years then drink until 2030...
From a parcel of old vines grown in Les Faconnières, one of the best situated climats in Morey St. Denis, located beneath Clos de la Roche and between the Millandes and Charrières premier crus. The 2014 is truly lovely and perfumed, displaying floral and red fruit aromas of bright cherry, wild strawberry and violets, with a hint of game and wood smoke. Beautiful, pure red fruits carry over on the palate, with flavors of perfectly ripe Morello cherry, strawberry, and mineral spice, with lip-smacking acidity and a savory tannic spine. This shows layers of fruit with a mineral foundation beneath. This is a beautiful and harmonious Faconnières and while delicious now, will be marvelous from 2025 on. John McIlwainBurgundy at Thanksgiving - Of course! We have a wide variety of delicious Pinot Noirs from the ripe and lovely 2014 Burgundy vintage in stock that will also grace your Thanksgiving table, starting at around $20 - give us a call for assistance in your selection.
Situated just above Clos de la Roche, the Magnien's 2014 1er Cru Mont-Luisants shares the grand cru's "inherent lushness" (Clive Coates) in this lovely vintage for Burgundy. The wine shows a deep red-black color with lush aromas of blackberry, plum and ripe strawbwrry with earth, graphite and citrus. Dense ripe blackberry and black cherry fruit coats the palate with hints of bitter chocaolate and soil. Surprisingly round but with nice chalky acidity and a long finish of citrus and pretty berry fruits. Quite delicious now, this lovely wine will offer superb drinking with a little time in the cellar, perhaps best 2020 - 2035.
A 26-year-old Burgundy from half-bottle? Yep! Still very much alive. Black plum, black tea, a hint of game on the nose. Dark fruited, with stone fruit flavors, roasted meat, iron, and earth notes. Still a bit structured, but the framework and fruit are have begun to integrate to show some interesting tertiary character. John McIlwain
A touch of reduction on opening. An hour in the decanter reveals black cherry, black fruits, spices, and a kiss of anise on the nose. Not quite silken but softly textured, with ripe tannins and acid bringing up the finish. More blue-fruited on the palate with a good bit of earth just beneath the pretty fruit and spice. Soil notes become more prominent on second day as wine builds in weight and complexity. Very Vosne, if not flamboyantly so. This should be a compelling mid-weight Vosne with 5-6 years in the cellar. John McIlwain
From young and old vines in a superb south-facing hillside vineyard of thin clay over limestone soils in Cravant. 24 months of aging in 2 to 4 year-old barriques. The difficult vintage of 2013 gave very low yields and less alcohol than usual, but the 2013 Croix Boissée is a superb, elegant Chinon that will age well and resembles a light, old fashioned Burgundy. The aromas are lovely and very floral with raspberry and red currant fruit. The palate is extremely mineral, not fat but with pretty red fruit, spice and earthy flavors over firm acidity. Given the vintage, this is an astonishingly good Chinon, but not exactly a fruit-bomb, that should be superb when mature, perhaps 2025 to 2035, and delicious young for those who appreciate more terroir than fruit in their Chinon.
We're very excited about the arrival of the superb 2014 Chinon "Cuvee Domaine" from Bernard and Matthieu Baudry. All Cabernet Franc of course, a blend of 75% from a parcel in St. Louans, where the thin clay/limestone soils give earthy well-structured wines, with 25% from gravel soils near Cravant, giving supple fruit and freshness. Organic farming, wild-yeast fermentation, aging in 5 to 10 year-old wooden vats and casks. Tasted from barrel in February of 2016 the wine was quite beautiful , if a bit closed, showing lovely pure red fruit aromas with a supple, ripe palate, very deep and long and framed in perfect earthy acidity. Upon arrival in NY (October 2016), the wine is singing, with aromas of wild strawberry and red currant with white pepper, earth and cocoa. The palate is fresh and balanced with pretty red fruits, earth and citrus notes, really long and lovely. This will be a superb and unique Chinon, both to drink young and for cellaring of fifteen to twenty years. Serve cool with roast chicken, pork dishes, charcuterie, green vegetables and mild cheeses. Highly recommended. DL (Those who want a bit of the mature experience should: open the bottle, taste - yum - re-cork and put in fridge; wait three days, enjoy!) Featured in the NY Times "20 Wines Under $20" 01/12/17
(Tasted in January 2016) From 50 to 60 year-old Cabernet Franc vines on a gravel soil over sandy clay and limestone at the bottom of the hill of Sonnay in Cravant. Aged 12 months in 3 to 5 year-old barrels. The 2014 is certainly one of the greatest "les Grézeaux" from this wonderful estate! Beautiful deep red/black color, lush, complex palate of ripe dark fruit with perfect balance and fabulous length, with cool acidity lifting the fruit. As always the "les Grézeaux" is enjoyable young as the gravel soil gives a wine with a silky texture, but it ages beautifully as well, as anyone with the 1989 can tell you. This is a must for any lover of Chinon!
From a tiny parcel in La Croix Boissée, with 15 to 25 year-old Chenin vines on thin sandy clay soils over limestone. Slow fermentation in 500 liter tonneaux until "sec" - under 2 grams per liter of residual sugar. With lovely ripeness in the 2015 vintage, the wine shows aromas of lime-flower, stone, dried pear and apple, with a hint of hazelnut and spice. The palate opens with aeration to show intense dried pear, anise, beeswax and strong mineral flavors in a quite ripe and round frame with firm acidity. The intense citrus oil and dried herbs in the finish are typical of white Chinon. This is a beautiful and really unique expression of Chenin Blanc. Decant or open 1-2 hours before serving. Highly recommended!
100% Chenin Blanc from vines under 50 years-old in 4 different parcels with flinty clay soils over limestone, very low yields in 2014. Aromas of peach, pear, lime-flower, brown spice; the palate is very mineral, round but with firm acidity with white and yellow fruits and a beautiful stony finish. Delicious now or cellar 10 years or more, serve with full-flavored fish such as halibut or monkfish. Lovely wine!
This is a lovely, soft and ripe expression of Pineau d'Aunis from Pierre-Olivier Bonhomme, from vines adjacent to Clos Roche Blanche on clay with silex in organic and biodynamic farming. Aged in old futs and demi-muids, bottled without filtration, minimal SO2. Floral, beautiful dark cherry fruit with cranberry, white pepper and plum and minimal tannin. Slightly softer and more supple than usual; a wonderful food wine with a perfect balance of fruit and mineral acids that's lovely now and should open up nicely over the next few years.
Pierre-Olivier has made a simply delicious Touraine Sauvignon Blanc in 2015 - it's a great value for everyday drinking, and it would be fun to put some away a few years as well! The wine shows a pale bronze color with aromas of ripe pear, lime flower, gingerbread and honeysuckle, really lovely. Dry but with lovely ripe pear and apple on the palate framed in firm acidity, with stone, saline mineral flavors and candied fruit in the finish. There's a lot of character in this inexpensive wine - enjoy by itself or with any fish, chicken or white meat dish, great with goat cheeses and Asian foods as well, DL
Menu Pineau, also known as "Arbois" is described in Wine Grapes (J. Robinson et al.) as "an old variety from the Val de Loire named after it's similarity to Gros Pineau (Chenin Blanc)...although it has nothing to do with the village called Arbois in the Franche-Comté." It is an offspring of Gouais Blanc, along with many other European grapes, and is "a little more rustic, but less acid than Chenin Blanc," according to Thierry Puzelat. The 2015 La Tesnière Blanc by Pierre-Olivier Bonhomme is from organically-grown vines, 75% Menu Pineau and 25% Chenin Blanc, in this great parcel that abuts the Clos Roche Blanche in Touraine. Bright pale gold color. Subtle aromas of grapefruit, pear, fresh herbs, stone and caramel. The palate is lean, with firm acidity and flavors of hazelnut, citrus, baked apple, stone and brown spice. A really fascinating wine and a great pairing with grilled fish with fennel, lemon chicken, aged goat cheeses and much more. Highly recommended to lovers of unique natural wines.
100% Romorantin, from a mix of old and young vines grown on clay and silica soils over limestone. The 2014 Cazin Cour-Cheverny shows a bit more ripeness and round white fruits than usual - less aromatic but deeper on the palate. This will need some time to open up, but shows ripe pear, almond and stone aromas with hints of lime-flower and white pepper.The palate is firm and very mineral, with round white fruits and herbal flavors, quite subtle and with good length. Decant if drinking now, or let it spend a few days re-corked in the fridge. Drink until 2030 and beyond....
We're big fans of the Caslot family at Domane de la Chevalerie, who make soulful Bourgueils from organic vineyards on their varied terroirs. The Chevalerie vineyard is on mid-slope Turonian limestone with clay and alluvial sand and gravel topsoils, rich in silex; the vines average about 60 years of age. The lovely 2012 Chevalerie shows vivid aromas of berry liqueurs, bitter chocolate, earth and brown spice. The palate is dense and supple with ripe blackberry, cocoa, earth and mineral flavors balanced by cool acidity. The finish is long and lush with blackberry, prune, citrus and saline minerals. This is a lovely old-school Bourgueil to drink over the next 15 years - delicious now perhaps best from 2020 to 2025.
"The Clos du papillon is a small valley at mid slope, beautifully exposed southwest to the light of the Loire. There are schist, rhyolite but also quartz. The topsoil layer is very shallow (60 cm) which provides excellent drainage for rainwater. The vine growing conditions are difficult, forcing it to develop its roots deep in the rock cracks to draw nutrients. The climate in that parcel allows for a level of highly advanced maturity, with grapes that concentrate aromas under the action of botrytis. The body and the very long finish make the Clos du Papillon a gastronomic wine to accompany lobster, scallops, smoked fish, Turbots, Saint Peter. It is also interesting with delicate white meats such as veal or capon, along with truffles or mushrooms. Classic mountain cheeses like old Salers, or 5 to 6 years old Comté are equally delicious with this great Savennières." - Domaine du Closel. 2014 is a great vintage for Loire whites, combining excellent ripeness with bright acidity and great balance - the Clos du Papillon shows beautiful aromas of ripe pear and quince with honeysuckle, lime-flower and dried herbs with hints of smoke and earth. The palate is superb, very ripe and dense with white fruits, citrus, almond and stone with very firm lemony acidity and mineral flavors. The finsih is very long with bitter lemon and saline minerals. Drinking beautifully now, this should age well, peak drinking perhaps 2020 to 2025 and beyond. David Lillie
This year we're featuring Chenin Blanc in our Thanksgiving email with two great choices from the Loire Valley. These beautiful wines are great food pairings due to their unique combination of ripe fruit, firm acidity and saline minerals that complement the full-flavored dishes of the holiday table. The 2014 La Jalousie is a particularly great choice as the vintage gave the wine luscious ripeness while retaining the bright acidity so important for balance and freshness. Evelyn de Pontebriand took over her parents’ estate in 2001 after a long career teaching French literature all over the world. As a lover of all things botanical, it did not take long for her to convert the estate to strictly organic farming and she continues to experiment with different vineyard management techniques in her quest to highlight Savennière's austere terroir. Her work in the cellar is very traditional with fermentations occurring naturally with indigenous yeasts and SO2 is used in miniscule doses only if needed. The Chenin Blanc vines from the La Jalousie parcel are 15-20 years old and are planted in sandstone and decomposed quartz schist soils. On the nose it shows classic Savennières aromas of stone fruits, papaya, mango, and waxy citrus fruits. The palate is quite full-bodied and offers luscious tropical fruit anchored by minerals and more juicy citrus. The 2014 is the finest La Jalousie in many years - beautifully balanced and delicious now, but would be interesting to taste in 5-10 years! Tim Gagnon
Guy Bossard is one of the heroes of French viticulture, having rejected modern chemical farming upon assuming the family estate, becoming certified organic in 1972, then progressing to Biodynamic farming in 1996. And this in a region where there was little recognition or financial reward for his intense work and the higher quality of his wines. Happily, Guy has been an inspiration for many growers in the region and is still producing superb wines, while in semi-retirement, with his new associate Fred Niger Van Herck. 2012 and 2013 were problematic in one way or another for growers in Muscadet, but the wines from 2012, a very low-yielding year, are by far the best with great density, lovely fruit and superb mineral expression. The Domaine de l'Ecu 2012 "Granite" is particularly outstanding. As usual with this cuvée it's a bit musty and closed when first opened — decanting is advised — followed by aromas of dusty stone, lemon flower and pear. The palate is dense and vibrant with flint, saline minerals, bitter almond and sharp herbal/citrus flavors with firm acidity in the long stony finish. A bit more open and accessible than some vintages of Granite but with ample structure and acidity for aging — perhaps best 2019 to 2029. Bravo to Guy and Fred!
The Domaine de l'Ecu "Granite" is always among the greatest of Muscadets and a testament to the heroic efforts of Guy Bossard - certified organic in 1975 and Biodynamic in 1998. Frequently a bit musty and closed in it's youth, the 2014 Granite shows surprisingly ripe aromas of dried pear, lime-flower, candied almond, citrus and stone. (On day two, the aromas have become more elegant, complex and quite beautiful) There is ample cool acidity on the palate framing the complex white fruits, stone, citrus and almond flavors that continue on the long very mineral finish. This is a great vintage for Granite - absolutely wonderful now and over the next fifteen years or more...
A delicious demi-sec Chenin Blanc from Alain and Christine Bore! Honey-tinged and luscious on the nose with baked peaches, mango, pineapple, lime zest, heather, red delicious apple skin, and tangerine. Mellow and round on the palate, but balanced with exotic tropical fruits, lemon meringue, salty pineapple, honey, and Marcona almond. Tropical fruit and grapefruit endure on the finish, along with a sweetness that is never cloying. Pair with all kinds of dessert, but a summery fruit tart would be best! Tim Gagnon
Alain and Christine Boré produce delicious organic wines on their estate in Anjou that are sensational values for everyday enjoyment. Their 2015 Anjou Blanc (Chenin) is superb, with lovely aromas of pear and apple, fresh herbs, lime-flower and honey. The palate is round and supple but nicely balanced with firm acidity, showing green apple, dried pear, stone and honeyed citrus and minerals that continue in the long finish. A simply delicious dry Chenin that will accompany seafood, grilled or in sauce, chicken, goat cheeses, etc... DL
Alain and Christine Bore, the sixth generation of the family at the Domaine du Fresche, produce beautiful certified organic wines on their estate at La Pomeraye, Anjou. The 2015 Anjou Gamay is a fabulous "vin de soif" (easy-drinking, thirst-quenching wine) which shows lovely aromas of ripe raspberry and red-currant with black pepper, violet and citrus. The palate is dense and ripe with red-currant and blackberry fruit but light on its feet with refreshing acidity and perfectly balanced at 12.5% alcohol. A bit deeper and more "serious" than the 2014, this is a simply delicious Gamay to serve quite cool with charcuterie, chicken, grilled pork and mild cheeses and it's a fabulous value at $11.99!
50% Pinot Noir and 50% Grolleau grown by Alain and Christine Bore, the sixth generation on their organic estate in Anjou. This unusual blend of Pinot Noir and Grolleau is really lovely - it's a bit riper and fuller than the 2014 version with lush aromas of blackberry and plum. The palate is round and supple with cool blackberry, cherry and raspberry fruit - quite ripe but lifted by fresh acidity. Serve a bit chilled with chicken, pork, vegetable dishes and mild cheeses. DL
The Domaine du Fresche is a certified organic estate in Anjou producing delightful, fresh, vivacious wines from Chenin, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Gamay and Grolleau. This lovely rosé of Grolleau and Pinot Noir comes from hand-harvested fruit and is vinified with wild yeasts giving pretty aromas of ripe red currant, blood orange and strawberry. The palate shows silky, pure fruit - red currant with hints of watermelon and citrus and finishes with round red fruits and juicy acidity. A lovely wine and a great value. Thanks to Alain and Christine Bore at Domaine du Fresche!
The 2012 Varenne de Combre is the more meditative and linear of the two Anjou whites from Grandes Vignes. Totally dry and crystalline, with great precision and a long mineral finish. This wine should age beautifully, but is also a treat with a little air. Textbook dry Chenin on schist soil... what more could you want? Eben Lillie
Yum! This is a very gulpable Cab Franc from the folks at Domaine les Grandes Vignes. This has very little tannin, and a healthy amount of acidity and ripe red fruit, so it's a shoo-in for the chillable red category. There's nice density and richness, which can be missed with some Loire Valley natural wines (always good to have a medium bodied option in that category). There's no funk here, just pure fruit, so it's an easy fit for the dinner table, even for less "adventurous" palates. Eben Lillie
"Groslot" (which loosely translates to "jackpot") is a humorous play on the name of the grape here, which is known officially as Grolleau Noir. The Vaillant family has definitely hit the jackpot with this wine, one of a lineup of reds without any SO2 added. Grolleau is a grape with plenty of fruit, ample acidity level and a noticeable tannic structure, though the style here is light-handed and fun, so there is barely any grip to this wine. Really vibrant and fresh on the palate with crushed berries and a silky finish. Drink with a chill! Eben Lillie
From 40 to 80 year-old vines on clay over limestone soils around Benais in Bourgueil. Certified organic since 1965! By now the great work of Stephane Guion needs no introduction to CSW customers, but the quality of his 2014 Cuvée Prestige deserves special attention. The wine is perfectly balanced, with the high acidity and mineral content always present in Stephane's wines framed by precisely ripe and supple fruit with depth and elegance. The aromas show raspberry and blackberry liqueur with hints of dark chocolate, earth and licorice, ripe but bright. Supple, ripe berry fruits on the palate with fine tannins and citrusy acids, deep and intense but forward and delicious now. This wine will drink beautifully over the next 20 years or longer and is highly recommended.
From 80 year-old vines in "Petits Monts" and "Grand Monts" towards the top of the slope above Benais, facing roughly south-west, clay over Turonien limestone (tuffeau, craie micacée). This is the terroir giving the most elegant and age-worthy Bourgueils. 18 month elevage ; 40% in cuve inox, 20% in one new 400 liter barrel, 20% in one-year and 20% in two-year old barrels, assembled two months before bottling. Tasted in February 2016, the wine was fairly closed and tight, with deep, pure black fruits and perfect balance. This will be a sensational mature wine, best to wait eight to ten years, or more, then drink until 2040.
2015 Le Haut Lieu Moelleux: 12.5% alc, 45 gr/l RS. A very graceful wine. Ripe mango, pineapple stalk, candied grapefruit peel, lychee, and a hint of wool rise from the glass. The palate perfectly balances opulent fruit and sweetness with bright acidity and a scintillating texture. Although approachable now, it'd be great in 5-7 years. Tim Gagnon
2015 Le Haut Lieu Moelleux 1er Trie: 11.5% alc, 90 gr/l RS. Gorgeous tropical melon, Meyer lemon, and orange blossom at firston the nose with undertones of baked pear, walnut, and wildflower honey. You do get a sense for the botrytis, with more luscious orange marmalade and very ripe pineapple as well. On the palate it is honeyed, tropical, and almost salty, with an invigorating acidity balancing out the residual sugar. Long and very pretty; this is no doubt a beautiful wine, it will need quite a long time in the cellar to really open up. Tim Gagnon
"Le Haut-Lieu—The original Huët vineyard is nearly 9 hectares. It has the richest soils of the domaine’s three crus—a deep limestone-clay—and the wines are generally the estate’s most approachable. In some vintages, small quantities from nearby estate parcels may be added to Le Haut-Lieu." 2015 Le Haut Lieu: 13% alcohol, 6 grams/liter RS, 5.6 gr/l acidity.
2015 Le Mont Moelleux: 12.5% alc, 60 gr/l RS. A bit more decadent than the Haut-Lieu Moelleux, it shows notes of lemon meringue, marzipan, orange peel, pear skin, and green apple on the nose. Unctuous and powerful on the palate, the residual sugar is more perceptible, but remains balanced by a dense minerality and a chalky intensity. Grab a few for the cellar and don't think about them for ten or more years! Tim Gagnon
L'Appetillant is the Joussets' sparkling Montlouis, 100% Chenin Blanc, Champagne method (or should we say "Methode Traditionelle") made with no sulfur and no dosage. All cellar functions by gravity, no pumping, fermentation in one to seven year-old barrels, approximately 12 months on the lees. From 40 year-old vines on sand and silex soils over limestone. This version is absolutely delicious with lovely aromas of pear, lime-flower, stone and caramel, quite subtle and complex. White fruits, citrus and stone on the palate with nice chalky, lemony length. Drink over the next three years. This is a beautiful wine and is highly recommended!
The 2014 Trait d'Union is a wonderful demi-sec Chenin from our new friends Lise and Bertrand Jousset in Montlouis. The vines are 60 to 80 years old, on sand and silex soils over limestone giving yields of 20 to 25 hl/ha. Wild yeast fermentation, aging in 1 to 8 year-old barriques. The wine is a lovely pale gold/bronze color with aromas of earth, lemon, honey, brown spice, lime-flower and ripe pear. The palate is round, ripe and delicate with saline mineral flavors blending with lemon compote, white fruits and stone. Dense but light on its feet, this is a beautiful accompaniment to fois gras or pâtés, scallops, veal stew and goat cheeses.
Simply put, this is top-shelf Pét-Nat for a picnic-friendly price. From organically farmed Chenin vines (45 years of age on average) in Montlouis-sur-Loire in soils of sand and silex over limestone. All cellar operations are by gravity, without pumping, the fermentaion is in 3 to 6 year-old barriques of 225 and 400 liters. The wine is vibrant straw yellow and adorned with a fine mousse. The nose reveals aromas of ripe pear, Granny Smith, lime flower, creamy lemon with heather honey and stone.. A finely chiseled palate is a bit off-dry with hints of dried pear, apple and anise over a core of saline minerals with terrific length. This is a thirst-quenching Pet-Nat, made without sulfur, that happens to be a serious and elegant wine!
A fantastic Cabernet Franc from Quentin Bourse! His dogmatism for perfectly clean, fresh, and delicious wines of nature is as apparent in his farming practices (his estate has been certified biodynamic for over 10 years) as it is in the cellar where all fermentations occur naturally and no SO2 is used for the red wines; a miniscule amount for the whites. Dusty dark plum, cranberry, and a mélange of black berry fruits rise from the glass, with even darker tones of cocoa, licorice, anise, and damp soil. Pleasantly ripe on the palate, dark fruit gives way to earth and pepper backed by sturdy tannins. This is on the short list for the ultimate wine to pair with roast chicken and root vegetables. Tim Gagnon
Up until this vintage, the only rosés available from Les Capriades were off-dry, but now there is finally a bone-dry cuvee! Made entirely from Gamay, it strikes a perfect balance of fruit and minerality which results in a zesty, refreshing wine awash in red berries, flowers, tangerine zest, and tart cranberries. This is the perfect sparkler to ring in the new year with. Tim Gagnon
From a superb hillside vineyard on orthogneiss with clay and quartz stones. A great vintage for Jo's Fief du Breil! Yes, the aromatics are a bit more pronounced than in more austere vintages, and there is more presence of citrus and white fruits on the palate, but the wine retains a superb mineral character and the finish is brisk and very long. Simply a great Muscadet — drinking this alongside the Pepiere Clos des Briords would be a great lesson in the terroirs of the Pays Nantais! Tasted in February 2016, the wine is still youthful although the aromas are opening a bit, with intense minerality on the palate and fabulous length. Delicious now, this will be fabulous in 2025! Brisk enough for oysters and clams, perfect with cod, sole and flounder, complex enough for monkfish and swordfish - hurry down to Blue Moon Fish at the Greenmarket this Saturday!
2015 is another very good vintage for the Luneau-Papin "L" d'Or, lacking the weight of the 2014 perhaps, but still a very stylish Muscadet for current drinking and medium-term aging as well The wine shows complex aromas including pear, citrus and exotic fruit with anise and herbs. The palate is crystalline and long with stone and white fruits, really delicious, with a nice bit of crisp, bitter acidity in the finish. A good candidate for aging, this is Luneau-Papin's only cuvee on a granite subsoil (granit a deux micas) having a different character than the granite soils in Clisson or Chateau Thebaud. Vintages going back to 1989 of the L d'Or are superb now, but this very young 2015 would be perfect today with a filet of sole.
Christophe Foucher at La Lunotte makes brilliant natural wines on his tiny estate in Coufy, near our friends at Clos Roche Blanche in Touraine. He practices uncompromising organic work in the vineyard and vinifies without sulfur and bottles by hand. His 2014 Menu Pineau "Haut Plessis" is wonderful, as usual, but suffering a bit from it's relative youth and the ripeness of the vintage. Give the wine many hours in a carafe, or open the night before if drinking soon. With aeration the wine shows intriguing aromas of thistle, lemon zest and dried pear. The palate shows creamy lemon, stone, pear, caramel and earth flavors. Serve with vegetable soups, fish or chicken is sauce, goat cheeses.
Christophe Foucher makes brilliant natural wines on his 5 hectare estate, La Lunotte, in Couffy, on the southern bank of the Cher River, near St. Aignan, just a short distance from our friends at Clos Roche Blanche. Christophe grows Sauvignon Blanc, Menu Pineau, Cabernet Franc, Cot and Gamay, farmed with strict organic methods and vinified without sulfites or other additives and bottled by hand, unfiltered. The 2014 Rossignoux is a lovely natural Sauvignon that needs aeration for an hour or two before tasting. The wine is an opaque gold color and shows yellow fruit aromas with herbal and leafy notes, stone, pear and white pepper. The palate is rich and dense with peach, ripe pear, stone and earthy flavors athat develop nicely with time open. Serve this unusual and delicious wine with monkfish, chicken with mushrooms, full-flavored cheeses... Highly recommended for lovers of natural wines.
It’s been two years since we’ve seen any red wine from Christophe Foucher of La Lunotte, and we are thrilled to have it back! An engineering teacher-turned-winemaker, Christophe began farming his in-laws’ 5.5 hectares of vines in Couffy (within the Touraine AOC, though he declassifies his wines as Vin de France) full-time in 2000. Conversion to organic farming began only a year later, and he committed fully to the natural wine movement soon after. La Flou is 100% Cabernet Franc that is partially destemmed, fermented with native yeasts, and bottled without the use of SO2 or other additives at any time during the winemaking process. Compared with the last release of this wine, the 2015 offers more density and texture with dusty, plummy fruit on the nose along with aromas of white pepper, violet petals, and savory rhubarb. The palate is deep and dark with a fair amount of structure, pure blackberry fruit, and baking spice. A bit more serious than your average glouglou, serve with a slight chill and pair with roasted chicken, cured meats, or pork loin. Tim Gagnon
This is a beautiful Gamay from the talented Noella Morantin, who acquired part of the Clos Roche Blanche vineyard and other parcels above the Cher River in Pouillé, Touraine. The 2015 Mon Cher is from old vines, vinified in carbonic maceration, and shows lovely aromas of morello cherry, strawberry and red currant with hints of rose and forest floor. The palate is lively and bright at 12% alcohol, with ripe sappy red fruits, earth, mineral and citrus flavors that continue in the refreshing finish. This is a very pretty and versatile wine that will accompany charcuterie, chicken and pork dishes and mild cheeses. Serve cool and enjoy! DL
Organic farming on Gabbro soils, hand harvetsing and wild yeast fermntations with no chaptalization produce light, very mineral flavored wines at Domaine Parentiere. The 2014 Muscadet Vieilles Vignes shows intriguing aromas of citrus, ripe melon, almond, anise and stone, quite typical of Muscadet from Gabbro soils. Pear, melon, citrus, and stone flavors continue on the palate with an earthy finish of meyer lemon and firm acidity. At 11.4% alcohol it's light but full-flavored, perfect with oysters of course, but will accompany sole, flounder, cod and richer fish like monk and halibut as well, not to mention roast chicken and mild cheeses. A fabulous value!
The Parentière Fraîcheur Iodée de L'Atlantique, which roughly translates as "Atlantic sea-spray" is made from Gros Plant (aka Folle Blanche) grown on gabbro soils near Vallet in the Muscadet Sèvre et Maine region. Domaine de la Parentière is a tiny estate which has been practicing organic agriculture for more than 30 years—the grapes are hand-harvested and fermented with wild yeasts and the wines are never chaptalized, remaining light, mineral and refreshing. The 2014 is a bit softer than usual and shows intriguing aromas of ripe melon, bitter lemon, almond, fresh herbs and stone. The palate is lively and light at 10.2% alcohol with pear, citrus, melon and stone flavors with a fresh lemony finish. This will be very refreshing on a hot day, especially with oysters, prosciutto and melon, terrines, salads and fried fish, etc, etc. Did we say this is an amazing value?
This Muscadet "la Pépie" from Domaine de la Pépière is a "negoce" wine that combines the last bottling of the 2015 Pépière with purchased juice from a neighboring vineyard. The wine shows ripe aromas of pear and citrus with stone and herbal notes. The palate is a bit rounder than the 2015 Pépière with pear, melon and stone flavors. While this lacks the focus and length of the previous versions, it's still a nice bottle of Muscadet that will help make up for the tiny quantity produced in 2016 due to frost.
The Domaine de la Pépière Château Thébaud "Clos des Morines" comes from old vines on a beautiful vineyard sloping down towards the river. The granite here is fissured and permeable by the vine roots which have access to water during dry spells and absorb micro-nutrients along the way. 2009 and 2010 here were among the best of the vintage in Muscadet and the 2012 is outstnding as well from this somewhat difficult low-yielding vintage. More austere than the previous vintages, the 2012 shows subtle aromas of dried pear, herbs, citrus, almond and stone, quite subtle and elegant. The palate has excellent weight and concentration with firm acidity, without the forward fruit of the 2009 - very tight and mineral in style with terrific length. Fabulous served now with oysters, ceviche of cod, flounder and sole, and grilled fish, This should age beautifully for 20 years and more. Highly recommended. Tasted again in December of 2016, this beautiful Muscadet is beginning to open up a bit, with lovely fruit appearing in the aromas and palate, really drinking well, though obviously a wine that will benefit from another five years of aging, best perhaps 2022 - 2030.
(First produced in 2008, this great Muscadet is made from a three hectare parcel of old massale-selection vines (all over 60 years old, with a high percentage much older) on a slope above the Maine. The bedrock is Granite de Château Thébaud, a fissured rock that allows the vines to penetrate deeply, with ideal thin topsoils of clay, with sand and gravel allowing good drainage.) The 2015 vintage was a great relief to vignerons in the Loire and elsewhere as generally sunny, dry weather brought an ample harvest with good yields for the first time since 2010. In the words of Remi Branger: "For a description of the 2015 vintage, we had a quite beautiful growing season and dry weather in August (the grapes were lacking a bit of water), then at the end of August we had rain, but a bit too much, and this swelled the grapes. Fortunately the grapes stayed healthy and the harvest was beautiful, on September 10th, with good acidity, but a bit less concentration than in 2014. The 2015 Briords has developed well - personally, I find it quite fine and precise." Fine is a good description for the 2015 Briords. It shows subtle aromas of white fruits - pear and apple, nice ripeness, with wet stone and herbal notes. The palate is predominantly minerals with citrus and stone flavors, dried pear and thyme, with good length, quite focused and very elegant, with a crystalline structure and very firm acidity in the finish. At 12% alcohol, the wine has lovely balance and will drink beautifully young - it should develop the secondary aromas and flavors of mature Muscadet at 5 to 8 years and drink well for another 10 years. Thanks to the team at Pépière for another lovely Clos des Briords!
Among the first releases from Julien Pineau, the new proprietor at Clos Roche Blanche, is this beautiful and somewhat unusual Cabernet Franc. The wine undergoes a three-week whole-cluster fermentation, followed by aging in old barrels with minimal sulfur. The aromas are subtle and deep with blackberry, red currant, violet, spice, licorice and earth. Lovely round blackberry and strawberry fruit on the palate - earthy, smokey and quite mineral. The wine has unique, very pretty aromas and flavors that are not "typical" of Cabernet Franc . It's a lovely natural wine and a fascinating expression of the living soils at this great estate. David Lillie
Ever since we heard the news that Julien Pineau and Laurent Saillard would each be taking over half of the famed Clos Roche Blanche estate upon Catherine and Didier's retirement last summer, we were excitedly awaiting the 2015s. Julien’s wines have now arrived and are absolutely fantastic! This pét nat is made from Cabernet Sauvignon and is a refreshing, yet somewhat savory wine that is very intriguing. It is high-toned and quite exotic on the nose with notes of red currant, tangerine pith, tamarind, and brown spice. The palate is gently sparkling, juicy, and tart with a lip-smacking acidity, almost like biting into a mandarin orange. There is also a strong presence of red berries and a hint of peach. Tim Gagnon
Julien Pineau, who now owns 6.5 hectares of the Clos Roche Blanche, has made a wonderful start with his "Roche Blanche" Sauvignon Blanc. Of course, having Didier and Catherine working for him helped, and he had trained for a year under Didier as well. Produced without the addition of SO2, this is a lovely natural wine that benefits from decanting or aeration, then shows aromas of white fruits, melon, lemon peel and lime-flower with bright herbal notes. The palate is supple and ripe but with brightness and lift from firm acidity, with dried pear, citrus, stone and fines herbes. Nice density and length as well, and the wine improved nicely with a few days open. Highly recommended for lovers of natural wines! David Lillie
This is a lovely Pineau d'Aunis and a worthy successor to the reds and rosés made from this great vineyard by our friends Catherine Roussel and Didier Barrouillet until their recent retirement. Continuing their exemplary vineyard work, the young Julien Pineau (no relation to the grapes of the same name) has a slightly different style in the cellar. This delicious wine undergoes a two-week whole-cluster fermentation in vat with a tiny addition of SO2, but with none added at bottling. The wine shows beautiful aromas of red currant, cranberry, rose, white pepper and plum. The palate is bright and balanced with pretty berry fruits, crisp acidity and terrific length. The Clos Roche Blanche lives on in this beautiful Pineau D'Aunis! David Lillie
After a disastrous hail-storm in 2012 and tiny yields in 2013, Francois Pinon finally has wine to sell and from an outstanding vintage. Tasting through samples of his 2014s in February we were thrilled by these beautiful wines, clearly among the very best of the appellation. The Silex Noir is from parcels of clay over limestone with black flint, giving wines with a unique mineral character and complex, open aromas. The 2014 is superbly balanced at 12.1% alcohol and 15 grams of RS with very firm acidity. Lovely citrus, dried pear, licorice and floral aromas with full-bodied palate of minerals, white fruits and citrus, finishing with good acidity. Though quite delicious now, this is a very young wine that will benefit from decanting or aging, perhaps best 2025 to 2035.
For years we kept seeing small piles of sparkling rosé lining the walls of Francois Pinon's cellar. Finally we asked — is there enough for a small shipment to NY? And so this delicious blend of Malbec and Grolleau - from vines planted by François' grandfather - finally reached Chambers Street! The 2014 is a very pale orange/pink color with lovely aromas of strawberry, red currant and peach. The red fruits continue on the palate, balanced nicely by earth, citrus and mineral flavors that continue in the refreshing finish. This is a beautiful and crowd-pleasing rosé that's wonderful now and will drink beautifully for many years - a 1990 tasted a few years ago was sensational. Highly recommended. DL
From a plot of very old Chenin Blanc vines, François' Brut NV is kept on the lees for 18 months before bottling. It has pretty apple, pear, floral and toasty flavors with good acidity balancing the fruit. The current cuvée is from 2012 and it's their best ever - a bit dryer than usual with round but well defined fruit—a great alternative to Champagne, it's delicious as an apéritif before the meal or afterwards with apple pie. This is a great choice during the holidays - a real crowd-pleaser at a great price, before, after or during the meal!
A lovely young Chinon Picasses with the beautiful aromatic profile of this great vineyard — tart cherry, strawberry compote, earth and white pepper — really lovely. Earthy red and black fruits on the palate with the usual bracing acidity. Nice finish of "sous-bois," fruit compote and earth with juicy acids. A great food wine, perfect with roast chicken. We thank the young Eric de la Vigerie who is doing great work at Domaine Olga Raffault, and we remember wonderful tastings with Ernest Zenninger, partner and winemaker for Olga Raffault from 1947 till the late 1980s.
Les Picasses is one of the greatest vineyards in Chinon - a south-facing slope of clay over porous limestone that retains water and nutrients, nourishing the vines. While the wine is amply fruited and enjoyable young, it has firm acidity and structure for long-term aging, up to 30 years and more depending on the vintage. 2012 was a quite successful vintage for Loire reds, which generally showed vibrant fruit, fresh acidity and moderate alcohol. Not a "big" vintage but one of very pretty, well-balanced wines. The 2012 Raffault "Les Picasses" is a surprisingly full-bodied wine, showing ripe strawberry, blackberry, and cooked prune with a fabulous earthy core of stone and mineral flavors. The palate is dense with blackberry, prune, citrus, earth, licorice and cocoa with a long fresh finish. Ripe and forward enough to drink now with anything from roast chicken to steak, the 2012 should age beautifully, perhaps best 2020 to 2030 and beyond...? David Lillie
The Olga Raffault "Champ Chenin" has always been one of the great white Chinons, often needing 10 years of aging before it would reveal its mysteries. Happily, the wine is now made in a more approachable style, without losing the intensity and ability to age of this lovely Chenin. The 2015 shows striking aromas of pear and apple liqueur, dried herbs and white pepper with hints of exotic fruits. The palate is elegant and firmly structured, with subtle white fruits, citrus peel and stone flavors. The finish is long, with lemony acids, stone and saline mineral flavors. This is a lovely and very distinctive Chenin Blanc that will accompany grilled fish, roast chicken and mild cheeses - or hold for five to twenty years and serve with fish or chicken in sauce. David Lillie
From 25 year-old Chenin Blanc vines in a mid-slope parcel of thin clay and silex soils on limestone, yields of 25 hl/ha, certified organic with biodynamic methods as well, fermented and aged in 4 to 6 year-old barriques. The wine shows subtle aromas of lemon verbena, ripe pear, earth and stone, with hints of anise and melon. The palate is very earthy and mineral with ripe white fruits, citrus, caramel and anise, quite dense and long. This will open up nicely with time. Serve now, decant if possible, with halibut, swordfish, monkfish, chicken in sauce, Asian foods and goat cheeses, or hold for ten+ years. This is a lovely Jasnières and a great value!
100% Chenin Blanc, from 10 - 25 year-old vines on a slope of clay/silex soils on limestone, certified organic. Slow pressing of whole clusters; long fermentations, most in 4 to 6 year-old barriques, the younger vines in cuve inox; elevage in 6 year-old barrels. This lovely Jasnières shows subtle aromas of earth, citrus, lime-flower, pear, anise and wet stone with a hint of honeysuckle. Hints of yellow and white fruits on the palate with very firm acidity and saline stone flavors with bitter citrus and earth in the finish. This is a beautiful young Jasnières to enjoy now with grilled fish, shellfish, roast chicken and goat cheeses - or cellar five to ten years and serve with fish or chicken in sauce and aged cheeses. This is a fabulous value and highly recommended!
Every Thanksgiving list needs a Pineau d'Aunis and this year's candidate is the superb "La Belle d'Aunis" from our new friend Sebastien Cornille. As Karina says, it's an "aromatically complex light red" that will be lovely on turkey day, served cool. And consider the pretty "La Guinguette" from Roche Bleue that adds a bit of Gamay and there are excellent options from Clos du Tue Boeuf and Olivier Bonhomme as well.Fans of taut, aromatically complex light reds (think Piedmontese Ruché or a well-crafted carbonic Gamay) take note! Sébastien Cornille has hit it out of the park with this 100% Pineau d'Aunis: freshly cracked pepper and generous rose blossoms on the nose lead into crisp red strawberries, cherries, and sweet plum skins. The snap of tannin on the finish is addictive, bracing the palate for more while the earthiness is pleasingly textural, countering soft, sheer aromatics with a cool mineral crunch. This bottling of what is often used as a blending grape takes full advantage of the clay, silex, and limestone soils and meticulous farming at Roche Bleue to craft a terroir and varietal expressive wine that is a must for lovers of floral, lighter-bodied reds. Delicious served with a slight chill. Karina Mackow
While we were already in love with the whites from Sébastien Cornille at Domaine de Roche Bleu, we weren’t sure what to expect from the reds. In short, we were blown away. They were lithe and energetic with underlying earthy, mineral notes and exuberant fruit. My personal favorite was La Guingette. Made from a blend of 80% Pineau d’Aunis and 20% Gamay sourced from 30+-year-old vines, it undergoes semi-carbonic maceration for 20 days in tank before the Pineau d’Aunis is pressed off to be aged in neutral barrique and the Gamay in tank. Compared to La Belle d’Aunis, it offers more density with velvety black cherry and strawberry fruit on top of white pepper, grapefruit pith, crushed violet petal, and a hint of sage. Tim Gagnon
This is a beautiful Chenin Blanc from Sébastien Cornille at Domaine de la Roche Bleue, from 30 year-old vines on slopes and terraces of clay and silex over limestone, certified organic farming with biodynamic methods. The 2015 L'Orée de la Berterie shows lovely ripe aromas - peach, pear, and kiwi with almond, floral and mineral notes. Dried pear, citrus peel, stone and herbal notes on the palate with a quite firm citrus and mineral finish. This is a scintillating young Chenin that will open up over the next five to ten years. Serve with ceviche of fluke, fish in sauce, roast chicken and mild cheeses. This is a lovey wine and a great value! DL
Frothy pet nat deliciousness from Sébastien Cornille! 100% direct-press Pineau d’Aunis; it is ever-so-slightly pink in the bottle. After pressing, the juices were fermented in 6-8 year old barrels before being assembled at bottling in November. Secondary fermentation occurred naturally in the bottle and it was finally disgorged in July. It is delicate on the nose with aromas of white peach, red currant, orange blossom, and a hint of cherry. The palate is fresh and invigorating, with perhaps the slightest hint of residual sugar, and loaded with subtle red and yellow fruits, tangerine, hints of spice and a honey-tinged stoniness. It’s a simple wine – fresh, fruity, and easy to drink making it an excellent choice for parties of all kinds. To quote a colleague, “This is the perfect breakfast wine!” Tim Gagnon
Frantz Saumon consistently makes some of the most compelling wines in Montlouis. The soils here are shallow, but rich in clay and silex with a limestone base, making for chiseled wines that with an emphasis on purity and minerality. Minéral+ is made from 100% Chenin Blanc sourced from all of Frantz’s parcels in an effort to showcase all terroirs present in Montlouis. The nose is rife with yellow citrus fruits, honeysuckle, and smoked sea salt. The palate is much more airy and cerebral, very dry as well, with a punch of citrus and tangy minerals framed by a racy acidity and fleshy texture. I find it to be an incredibly polished wine, begging to be served with your Thanksgiving, be it a traditional feast or something more exotic involving seafood or spicy Schezuan cuisine. Did I mention that this is a magnum? Tim Gagnon
From a "clos" of older vines on clay and limestone soils, 28 days of fermentation, aged one year in three year-old barrels. The 2012 Champ Fou shows deep black/red color and ripe aromas of blackberry liqueur and red currant with hints of blueberry, chocolate and mint. The palate is cool and ripe with very supple black fruits beautifully balanced with juicy acidity and mineral flavors in the finish. The palate deepens with time open, the fruit becomes more lush and deep. Really lovely for current drinking, this will improve with three to five years in the cellar. Fabulous value! - David Lillie
From one hectare of Chenin Blanc on clay soils over Turuonien limestone. The 2013 La Coulée d'Aunis is a somewhat austere but beautiful wine showing subtle aromas of pear, stone, citrus, fine herbs and honeysuckle. The palate is lean and mineral with chalk and stone flavors framing pear, almond and citrus. This is a really lovely Chenin of terroir that will accompany shellfish, crab, grilled fish, roast chicken and mild cheeses. Cellar for ten years for a mature experience...
Jean-Paul Labaille continues the great work of his father-in-law Claude Thomas, creating one of the finest Sancerres from vines in "les Monts Damnees," an incredibly steep-south facing hillside in Chavignol on Kimmeridgian limestone and red clay. The 2015 is a great example of this wine, with complex, very elegant aromas of lemon oil, dried pear, apple and quince, lime-flower, boxwood, and stone. Really lovely! The palate is ripe and full but with firm acidity, elegant white fruits, saline minerals, citrus and earth, with just a touch of honeysuckle. Lovely finish of creamy pear and apple with firm acidity. This is a great Sancerre that is drinking beautifully now but don't hesitate to cellar for five to ten years. David Lillie
Jean-Paul Labaille makes this lovely Sancerre from parcels in Chavignol, In the warm 2015 vintage the wine shows pretty aromas of lime-flower, white fruits, melon, herbs and citrus. The palate shows lovely ripe fruit and a supple texture and is nicely balanced by firm acidity with nice stone and saline mineral flavors in the finish.
50% Pinot Noir, 50% Gamay from a small parcel of clay and flint soils over limestone of Blois. 2015 is a great vintage for the reds from Jean-Marie and Thierry Puzelat at Clos du Tue-Boeuf as the wines show lovely ripeness while retaining lovely balance and freshness. The 2015 Rouillon shows bright, floral tart plum, raspberry and wild strawberry aromas with citrus and earth. The palate is light but sappy with wild strawberry, plum skin, earth and spice. The finish is long with citrus and mineral flavors and a bit of tannin. Irresistible now, this should be very interesting after a few years in the cellar. 12.5% alcohol, zero or minimal SO2. David Lillie
Thierry and Jean-Marie Puzelat make this outstanding Sauvignon Blanc from a one hectare parcel in Pouillé, with sand and gravel over limestone, giving very low yields. An intense and beautiful wine in 2015, with aromas of lemon peel, pear, dried herbs, lime flower and pine resin. The palate is dense and ripe with dried white fruits, lemon oil and earth backed by firm acidity. Beautifully structured and very long, this is an outstanding and unusual Sauvignon Blanc to serve with fish or chicken in sauce and full-flavored goat cheeses. Delicious now, the wine should be very interesting with 5 to 10 years of cellaring. Highly recommended. (The name literally translated is "squalid bush" but we hope it refers rather to the limestone of Pouillé...?)
Sauvignon Blanc has been grown in Quincy at least since the 15th century and produces a particularly distinctive wine on the gravel and silex soils of the Domaine de Villalin's vineyard "Les Grands Vignes." The estate is clearly the finest in Quincy, farming with mostly organic methods, plowing (sometimes with horses), harvesting by hand and fermenting with wild yeasts. The 2015 is quite delicious, showing pretty aromas of lemon, exotic fruit, lime-flower and stone, with a bit of extra ripeness in this very warm vintage. The palate is balanced with firm acidity and saline minerals framing lemon, guava and white fruits with a long, dry and mineral finish. This is a very stylish Sauvignon Blanc and a great value. DL
"Romorantin, the official grape of the Cour-Cheverny AOC, appreciates sandy clay/limestone soils where it offers a wine of great character that mixes elegant vegetal and floral notes (cut grass, violets, a touch of mint), often slightly honeyed with notes of ripe fruit (roast pear) lightly marked by the elevage in old barrels. The finish is fresh, tight with saline minerals and bitter anise. A wine with good aging potential." (Villemade.net) In 2014, the "Les Acacias" is simply outstanding and very distinctive, offering aromas of ripe peach and pear with spice, floral, caramel and oxidative notes. The palate is very round and ripe with stone, peach, earth and almond flavors, with fabulous length with honeyed lemon, anise and minerals. Superb wine, to drink now or in 10 to 20 years. David Lillie
Hervé Villemade makes delicious natural wines on his organic certified estate in Cellettes, within the Cheverny and Cour-Cheverny appellations. This delightful 100% Romorantin shows lovely aromas of lemon verbena, fines herbes, melon and almond; very firm acidity on the ripe, dense palate with lemon, stone, melon and herbal flavors. Long finish of citrus and mineral flavors. This is an outstanding Romo and a great value - serve with melon and prosciutto, seafood, Asian foods, cheeses and patés.
Mostly Pineau D'Aunis (90%) with a touch of Gamay from sandy/flint soils. It's delightfully floral on the nose, with the fascinating herbal notes that one usually finds from Pineau D'Aunis cuvées. Mineral, and very fresh... with a lingering chalky finish. Eben Lillie
Our friend Olivier Lemasson crafts this blend of Grolleau and Côt (Malbec), from organically farmed vineyards in the Loire Valley. Carbonic maceration, with minimal sulfur added at bottling. This is extremely drinkable, with black cherry on the nose, vibrant herbal and vegetal notes, and subtle tannin. A joy to drink!
Somehow balancing freshness and bright red fruit with serious structure, this is a knockout from Lemasson. 100% Malbec or "Côt," as they call it in the Loire, this is spicy, earthy, and super finessed. There seems to be ample acidity and tannin here for aging. I know the jury's not out on aging no-SO2 wines, but I will note that I drank a bottle of the 2003 Cheville de Fer with Olivier at his home and it was absolutely breathtaking. A beautiful, mature wine, with fascinating aromas, a silky texture, and a never-ending finish. I remember opening my eyes wide after tasting the '03 and looking over to see Olivier simply nodding his head. He raised his finger and reminded me: "No sulfur!" Eben Lillie
From old vines of Gamay, this is a significant wine in 2015. The nose is vibrant and generous, and the palate is full, with black cherry, leather, earth, and hints of baking spice. It's concentrated and deep, but maintains great balance in the finish. Bravo!Eben Lillie
For fans of fun, fresh Loire Valley reds, search no further. This is all Gamay, in it's most fresh and vibrant form. 11% alcohol, and ready for a chill. No sulfur added. Eben Lillie
From a 1/2 hectare parcel of 35 to 40 year-old Pinot Noir vines on poor chalky soil with clay/limestone below, certified organic since 1999 and with biodynamic methods. Yields of 20 hl/ha, elevage in barrique, 50% new. The great farming of Isabelle and Alain Hasard gives wines of great density and character and the 2014 Mercurey "Brigadiere" is a great example. A bit of toasty oak frames deep strawberry and ripe cherry aromas with violet, blood orange and spice. The palate is supple and bright with lush, earthy blackberry and strawberry fruit that lingers in the long finish framed in saline minerals and good acidity. At 12% alcohol the wine combines ripeness and density but retains a bright refreshing character. Enjoy now served cool with roast chicken and lighter beef and pork dishes. Best perhaps 2018 to 2025 - lovely wine!
From 10 to 50 year-old vines grown on limestone soils (Middle Jurassic!) in the commune of Aluze, Cotes Chalonnaise, certified organic since 1999. This is a lovely Bourgogne Rouge, showing the ripeness of the 2015 vintage, but in a medium-bodied, balanced and bright style that is quite delicious! Vivid aromas of black cherry, raspberry, violet and pepper, with a bright palate of blackberry and spicy red-currant/cherry fruit framed in mineral flavors and firm acidity. Delicious now served cool, it will benefit from decanting or a few years in the cellar as well. DL
From .75 hectares in the lieu-dit Les Marceours adjacent to Clos Myglands on the eastern edge of the village. The vines range from 15-40 years old and are grown in mixed limestone debris and ferruginous soils. Stylish Mercurey, showing the ripenes of the 2015 vintage, with an array of wild strawberry, cherry liqueur, earth and mineral aromas upon the nose, quite dense but elegant and bright. Medium-bodied, with ripe concentrated, sappy red fruits and dark earth tones and hints of spice in the mouth; there is oak present, but it integrates nicely into the very long, succulent, sappy and stony finish. Lovely now, should improve over the next five to eight years. This is an excellent value in Red Burgundy and a loely wine! DL
Julien Guillot of Vignes du Maynes makes this lovely Gamay from organic grapes grown by a friend, on the "premiere cote" of the Macon. The blackberry, red currant and cherry aromas are subtle and earthy, on the palate there is good acidity and a real sense of the soil with elegant dark fruit. Good acidity and tannin for this relatively soft vintage. This is a very interesting Gamay that will improve with decanting or some time open — or a few years in the cellar.
Julien Guillot made beautiful wines in 2014 and this Pinot Noir is no exception, showing fabulous complexity, finesse and freshness. The lovely aromas are of raspberry, blood orange, tart plum, brown spice, earth and tea, for starters. The palate is soft, silky and refreshing with black fruits mingled with earth, citrus, stone and tea with tart plum and raspberry emerging in the finish. Any lover of natural wine should try this! 12.5% alcohol, no added SO2, 100% delicious. David Lillie
Claudie Jobard makes this lovely wine from 45 year-old vines on a south-east facing slope of pebbly clay/limestone soils near the Chateau de Rully in the Côte Chalonnaise between Mercurey and Bouzeron. Although not certified organic, the soils are plowed and farming is sustanable. The wine shows lovely bright aromas of morello cherry and raspberry, with floral and mineral notes. There is nice depth of fruit on the palate - blackberry and cherry - with earth and citrus. The fruit lingers on the refreshing finish. This is a lovely Pinot Noir for current drinking that will deepen and soften over the next three to five years. Serve with any grilled meat, especially lamb or duck, roast chicken and mild cheeses. DL
Made from Gamay Petit Grains planted in 1953, grown on a limestone parcel high in magnesium, in the Clos des Vignes du Maynes in Cruzille, organic since 900 AD, now certified biodynamic. The energetic Julien Guillot vinifies his reds without sulfur or additives of any kind, producing complex, mineral, elegant wines that transcend their appellation. The 2015s here are extraordinary, showing the elegance, purity and balance typical of the estate with the wonderful ripeness of the vintage. The wine shows gorgeous red and black fruit aromas with cranberry, earth, stone and musk and hints of mint, chocolate and spice. The palate is bright and intense with balckberry, citrus, stone and earthy flavors, that continue on the very long mineral finish. Always one of the greatest Gamays produced anywhere, the 2015 Manganite is a very young wine that will benefit from decanting or five to ten years in the cellar. Highly recommended! DL
This is absolutely everything I love about Barral, and it takes me back to some of my first experiences with Faugères. A blend of Mourvèdre and Syrah from younger vines planted in schist soils with a northern exposure, it opens with a bright and vivid nose, with brambly blackberries, sour cherry, and smoke, accentuated by citrus balm and dried herbs reminiscent of rosemary and thyme. The palate is fresh and energetic with ripe red raspberry, tart red cherries, pine needles, and a hint of dried hibiscus lasting onto a lengthy finish that continues the brambly fruit, spice, and herbal motif. Truly a fascinating wine! Tim Gagnon
Bella Parra is a blend of primarily Cinsault, with some Syrah. There's something about Cinsault that offers bright red fruit, and a spicy, gamey character. I often describe it as "playful," as I find it stands out among many of the heartier and perhaps more heavy handed red varieties in the South. Here, it's given extra backbone through the addition of some Syrah, but the spirit is intact. This is a fun medium-bodied red, and a perfect carry over from the hot days of Summer into the Fall. Eben Lillie
This is a white blend, marrying Roussane, Clairette, Grenache Blanc, Rolle (Vermentino), and Bourbelenc. It's medium - full bodied for a white, with notes of apple compote and baking spice. A prime candidate for wine drinkers who typically prefer reds, and truly a unique expression of the region's diverse grape varieties. Eben Lillie
The vineyard work of Cyril Fhal is among the finest in France - his living soils and delicate vinifications produce brilliant natural wines that are in a class by themselves.The "Jeunes Vignes" is from 30 year-old Grenache vines in a parcel on gneiss subsoil called Mont-Redon. Hand-harvested into small baskets, foot pressing followed by three month vinification in wooden vats, then 8 months aging in stainless steel. 13% alcohol, bottled retaining some of the natural CO2. "An infusion of grapes, allowing an expression of the delicacy of the variety" Aromas of rose petal, wild strawberry, blackberry and spice, with citrus and animal notes. The palate is supple, fresh and very earthy with firm acids framing lovely strawberry, plum and spice flavors. This is an unusually pretty and complex Grenache, to be enjoyed over the next 3 to 5 years, serve quite cool.
A deep, dark, and exuberant wine from Faugères! Located just outside of the village Lenthéric, the 28-hectare Clos Fantine estate is run by three siblings Carole, Corinne and Olivier Andrieu. They built their winery in 2000, three years after their father’s passing, and have been making wines the honest way since. All wines are made without any added SO2 and spend 17-20 months in huge concrete vats, depending on the vintage. A blend of Carignan, Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, and Cinsault (all vinified separately), it exudes classic aromas of savory herbs, black currant, citrus peel, peppered beef, and a wisp of smoke. It has ample fresh fruit and acidity on the palate with just enough earth and funk before finishing with a tinge of pepper and herbs. Tim Gagnon
When thinking of the Bergerac region of France, high-quality, thirst-quenching wines generally aren't the first things that come to mind. Enter Nicole Dournel of Domaine des Costes, who took over this estate as a tenant farmer in 1992. Her wines are crafted with care using organically farmed grapes and native yeasts to carry out fermentation. This cuvée is made of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Cabernet Sauvignon planted in sandy, stony soils over gravel. The result is a more feminine wine with a bouquet of cherry liqueur, dusty red plum, cassis, pomegranate seeds, and a touch of meaty funk. On the palate it is dusty, earthy, and brambly with bright dark berry fruit and fantastic structure. This would be perfect with roasted pork loin and root vegetables! Tim Gagnon
Made from Chasselas planted in clay-rich soils and raised in concrete egg, I find this wine to offer more in terms of layers of texture and in density than his other cuvées. It still maintains a ravishing acidity and ample minerality like all of his wines, but seems a bit more open aromatically with hints of crème brülée, almond milk, and zesty lemon meringue. These luscious aromas coalesce once on the palate with more succulent citrus and sea minerals coming forward. This would be fantastic with hearty poultry dishes (Thanksgiving anyone?) that balance savory and sweet, or with seared monkfish with parsnip purée and hazelnuts for the adventurous home cook. Tim Gagnon
A thoroughly elegant wine that truly shows its Savoie roots! This wine is fermented and aged half in concrete egg à la Belluard, his very good friend, and half in used barrel. The result is a much more chiseled and ethereal interpretation of Chardonnay that you don’t get in either the Jura or Burgundy. Think soft aromas of orchard fruit, lemon curd, and mountain wildflower on the nose, yet the palate is much more invigorating and opens up with a bit of lush fruit anchored by laser sharp acidity, a slightly waxy, mouth-coating texture, and tangy minerals. Try this with sushi made from fattier fish. Tim Gagnon
100% Mourvedre from a small parcel, aged for a year in 6 hl used Austrian barrels (Stockinger), then kept in bottle. This is the most elegant and finessed Mourvedre I've ever tasted. At 12%, it's not light, but it is really charming, with developed earthy flavors, yet free from any chewy tannins. Really quite velvet-like smoothness, and ample complexity, with a long mineral finish. Certainly wins the award for the most 'beautiful' of the Enfants Sauvages offerings. It's a joy to drink, and a great chance to study the oft-blended Mourvedre grape on it's own. Eben Lillie
Roi des Lézards is all Carignan, from vines ranging from 35 - 75 years, aged in a combination of 1500 L Austrian Stockinger barrels, and 500 L used barrels. This is a significant bottle of Carignan, offering dark, purple fruit and good grip. The famous French term "garrigue" immediately comes to mind, even from smelling the wine. Used to describe the aromas typical of the shrubs and fauna of the Mediterranean, such as Thyme, Rosemary and Lavender, one couldn't find a better descriptor for the flavor profile of this wine. Most likely best enjoyed on the dinner table with grilled meats, stews, or other hearty fare. Eben Lillie
Nicolas Gonin farms 0.8 hectares of this little-known variety in Isere, a tiny region in the southeast of France better known for skiing than for wine. But not only is Gonin a passionate and talented winemaker - farming organically, using native yeasts and barely any sulfur - he is also a dedicated ampelographer, seeking out and reviving the production of many arcane varieties. His 100% Persan is on the ligher side of medium-bodied, aromatic, and bursting with bright, juicy red fruits and a whiff of white pepper. The surprisingly sturdy tannins and mouth-rinsing acidity play well with a range of hearty, rustic fare at the dinner table (and particularly complement the cranberry-accented dishes of Thanksgiving). Vines are planted in sandstone-rich, gravelly soils that lend a vibrant, crunchy minerality to this delightfully tart and high-toned local grape. Karina Mackow
Isabelle and Franck Pascal make this beautiful natural wine from Cabernet and Merlot grown on their Biodynamic estate near Felines, in Bergerac. The wine is aged sur-lie 12 months in barrel, and is bottled without filtration or added sulfur. The color is a dark red/black; the wine shows vivid aromas of ripe cassis and boysenberry with earth, musk, brown spice, violet and graphite. The palate is lush, ripe and very complex with cassis, prune, chocolate, earth and spice lifted by cool acidity that continues in the long, citrusy finish. Wow, delicious! Serve with grilled pork or beef, a daube provencal, strong cheeses and charcuterie or cellar for 5 to 8 years.
This beautiful wine is made by Isabelle Carles and Franck Pascal at Le Jonc Blanc, an unusual limestone plateau in the Bergerac with shallow clay soils. Natural vinification with wild yeasts, no additives and minimal extraction. Aged in a large foudre, bottled without fining or filtration, no added SO2, certified organic and Biodynamic. The wine shows a very dark red/black color, with lovely fruit and floral aromas - rose, blackberry and raspberry with hints of dark chocolate and earth. Pretty berry fruits on the palate with cocoa and citrus lifted by refreshing acidity and finishing with a mineral core and citrusy black fruits. This is an extraordinary, pure and delicious wine that should be served slightly cool. Perfect with charcuterie, patés, chicken and pork dishes or just quaffed happily by itself. Highly recommended. DL
This is a lovely Biodynamic white made from Sauvignon, Semillon and Sauvignon Gris by Isabelle and Franck Pascal, whose great vineyard work and natural vinifications are producing outstanding wines on their clay/limestone terroir. The Sens du Fruit Blanc shows fabulous aromas of lime-flower, orange peel, ripe pear, melon and spice - really unique and lovely. Very complex ripe fruit on the palate - pear and apple with citrus and mineral flavors backed by firm acidity. Serve with full-flavored seafood dishes, Asian foods, chicken and pork, patés and mild cheeses. This is a lovely natural wine and a great value!
We're proud to be working with Isabelle and Franck Pascal, who make beautiful natural wines on their small estate near Félines in Bergerac. The estate is situated on a unique rectangular hill of two different limestones with very thin clay soils - really a great terroir, enhanced by superb Biodynamic farming. The 2014 Sens du Fruit Rouge is an outstanding wine, produced with zero added sulfur, a blend of Cabernet, Merlot and Malbec. The color is dark black/red; the aromas are ripe blackberry and cassis with cocoa, earth, spice and violets. The palate is deep and cool with supple black fruits, dark cocolate, earth and spice. The finish is long and earthy with prune, brown spice and firm acidity. Just delicious. Serve cool with charcuterie, grilled foods, stews, full-flavored cheeses. $12.99? Our thanks to Isabelle and Franck for their inspiring work.
40% Syrah, 30% Grenache, 15% Carignan and 15% Mourvedre grown in granite soils in Eric Laguerre's high-altitude vineyards in the Roussillon. Normally Eric's most dense and tannic red, the 2014 Le Ciste Rouge is a softer and immediately friendly wine that is delicious now and over the next 5 to 8 years. The aromas are a lovely melange of red fruits; red currant, tart cherry and blackberry with hints of earth, cocoa and spice. The palate is quite pretty and bright with raspberry and red-currant fruit, violets and licorice with soft tannins and refreshing acidity. At 12.5% alcohol it's balanced and versatile, perfect with roast or grilled chicken, grilled pork, charcuterie and mild cheeses, serve cool and enjoy!
From 40% Grenache Blanc, 30% Maccabeu and 30% Rolle (Vermentino) grown on granite soils in Eric's high-altitude organic vineyards. Very pale bronze color. The wine shows intriguing aromas of stone, dried pear, citrus and almond that deepen on the palate. Quite dense and backed with firm acidity and stone flavors, this is a real wine of the mountains, echoing the granite soils of Muscadet. This intriguing young wine will drink well over the next three to five years - it's an everyday white of great character that will accompany a wide variety of seafood and chicken dishes, goat and sheep cheeses as well. A fabulous value and highly recommended!
Another delicious wine from the affable and talented Eric Laguerre, from organic Syrah, Carignan and Grenache vines grown on granite soils high in the mountains of the Roussillon. Lovely pink/garnet color, aromas of raspberry, red currant, blood orange and spice. Beautiful bright red fruits on the palate with citrusy acids in a very firm, mineral frame and good length, really delicious! This is a real rosé of terroir that will gain complexity over the next few months and drink well through 2017. Perfect with a salade niçoise, grilled fish, chicken and pork and great to sip by itself. Highly recommended!
80% Grenache, 20% Syrah from Eric Laguerre's high-altitude vineyards in the Roussillon on granite soils. Deep red/black color, lovely blackberry and ripe black cherry fruit with hints of citrus, plum and spice. The palate is ripe and supple with bright acidity and ripe berry fruit that lingers in the finish with earthy acidity. At 13% of alcohol it's ripe but balanced and food friendly - just a great everyday red that's best with chicken and pork, grilled meats, charcuterie and full-flavored cheeses.
Eric Laguerre's "Le Passage" is from his highest parcel, at about 2,000 feet, on soils of decomposed granite. Organic farming, natural vinification, aged in used barrels. 80% Carignan with Syrah and Grenache. The 2015 is a lovely dark red/black color with deep aromas of blackberry, earth, dark chocolate brightened with violet and pepper. Dense, velvety black fruits on the palate - blackberry, prune and cocoa lifted by bright citrusy acids and finishing with a mineral kick. This is a beautiful expression of Eric's mountainside vineyards - showing the quality of his low-yielding Carignan. Drink now, served cool, with grilled meats, stews, and full-flavored cheeses, or hold a few years for a mature experieince...
This is a superb Jurançon Moelleux, harvested in late December, about 90 grams/liter of residual sugar. Wonderfully complex aromas of apricot, candied citrus, flowers and exotic fruit with a hint of vanillin. Lemon confit, apricot, brown spice and chalky acids on the palate. A young wine that is gorgeous now but perhaps best in five to ten years. With more acidity than Sauternes, this is a great match for foie gras, lemon tarts and strong cheeses. Absolutely superb! (The wine improves for weeks, re-corked in the fridge.)
Clos Marie-Louise/Château Lapuyade is a beautiful biodynamic estate deep in the hills of Jurançon, south of Pau. Their wines are harvested by hand, fermented with wild yeasts and aged in old barrels purchased from Yquem and Haut-Brion. Their 2012 Petit Manseng is a gorgeous wine and a sensational value. The wine needs a bit of air to open up, then shows deep floral honeyed apricot, candied citrus, stone, spice and caramel aromas with sweet fruit on the palate—lemon oil, exotic fruit and brown spice lifted by very firm acidity. Terrific length. With a few days open, more exotic fruit, pineapple and lychee emerge and the wine softens into something wonderful. An outstanding Jurançon moelleux that will accompany fois gras, patés, cheeses, fruit desserts and is fabulous on its own. (72 grams/liter RS) Highly recommended! David Lillie
Clos Marie-Louise/Château Lapuyade is a beautiful Biodynamic estate deep in the hills of Jurançon, south of Pau. The soils are primarily "poudingue," a conglomeration of calcareous stones and gravel deposited during the formation of the Pyrenees, with sandy clay topsoil. This bottle, based on the two better white grapes of Jurançon, Gros and Petit Manseng, seriously over-delivers in terms of complexity for the price and is particularly great in 2014. You'll find aromas of pineapple, lemon oil, peach and pear, honeysuckle and caramel apple on the nose, along with a light oakiness that would not work for all white wines, but fits perfectly with this one. The palate is essentially dry with firm acidity with dried pear, spice, citrus, stone and mineral flavors, but leaves an enticing sense of sweetness that makes it an excellent choice for cheeses, especially the sheep's milk cheeses of the Pyrenees. The finish is long and elegant - just delicious! Note: Those with the patience to keep this bottle around for a few days, re-corked in the fridge, will be rewarded with an awesome display of rich, complex fruit. David Lillie
We're very excited about this new cuvée from our biodynamic friends at Chateau Lapuyade in Jurançon. Made from 100% Petit Manseng from 40 year-old vines always tended in organic and biodynamic farming, it's a tiny special production in the best vintages - we're fortunate to get 12 cases for the US allocation. This beautiful dry (or almost dry) Jurançon shows a lovely pale gold color with elegant aromas of lemon, lime-flower, almond, stone, honeysuckle and brown spice. There is fabulous density on the palate with dried fruits, citrus, spice, stone and mineral flavors with scintillating, firm acidity. This is a very unusual and outstanding dry Jurançon - serve with fish or chicken in sauce, patés, and a wide variety of cheeses. Put a few in the cellar and re-visit in ten years. David Lillie
Céline and Steve Gormally farm their 5 hectares in Passenans, to the southwest of Arbois, with strictly biodynamic methods and consistently make stunning natural wines. Arco is 100% Savagnin from 20-year-old vines planted in rocky soils with a limestone base. Vinified and aged in neutral barrels for 9 months, it is a beautiful example of how much care the Gormallys put into all of their wines. Gorgeous tropical fruit aromas abound with delicate hints of walnut, lime blossom, and wildflower. The palate is gently saline with pure fruit, a piercing minerality, and a wonderful texture that leads into a crystalline finish dotted with hints of tangy pineapple stalk. It is absolutely delicious. Tim Gagnon
We always have a bottle or two of good rosé on the Thanksgiving table, and it's funny how they're the first bottles to disappear! We're very proud of our rosé selection at Chambers Street - all fermented with wild yeasts and organically farmed, giving distinctive wines that pair beautifully with the autumnal flavors of Thanksgiving. We love the Les Fouques, but there are many more and all priced for a holiday crowd - try Ferme St Martin, Laguerre, Peybonhome, Fresche, Madonna Grazie, Romeo del Castello and many more...The 2015 Rosé La Londe is a beautiful wine and a real rosé of terroir! Made from 70% Cinsault and 10% each of Grenache, Syrah and Vermentino, the 2015 La Londe is a lovely pale pink/orange color with subtle aromas of peach skin, citrus, brown spice, raspberry and rose petal. The palate is light, balanced and long with red currant, raspberry and yellow fruits, blood orange, spice with saline mineral flavors and creamy fruit in the long finish. Drinking beautifully now, it will improve over the next year or two and accompany an elegant ceviche, grilled tuna or chicken, salads, mild cheeses and berry desserts. Great sipped by itself as well - really delicious and highly recommended!
From Michéle and Yves Gros at Domaine Les Fouques, this is the new Pétillant Rosé! Pale hued, perfumed and floral on the nose, with peaches and stone fruit on the palate. Méthode Traditionelle, Extra Brut, with great acidity and a refreshing chalky finish. Eben Lillie
Primarily Grenache, with Syrah, Cinsault and Cabernet, this biodynamic red from Provence shows deep plum and blackberry fruit aromas with earth, citrus and Provençal herbs. The palate is ripe and supple with dense black fruits, prune and brown spice lifted by bright acidity. Serve with grilled meats and stews, a daube niçoise perhaps, and full-flavored cheeses. Great value!
Predominantly Grenache and Syrah, with a touch of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cinsault, this is a graceful Provence red from on of our favorite bio-dynamic estates, Domaine Les Fouques! This cuvée is new to Chambers St., and is fresher and more acid driven than the darker and more structured 'Aubigue Rouge.' If there was a "garrigue award," the Rouge Tradition would be the winner! Plenty of Mediterranean herbs and spice, crushed dark berries, and subtle tannins. At $11.99, it's an incredible value. (Eben Lillie)
This vintage of the Cuvée de l'Aubigue is our favorite to date! A cornucopia of stone fruit and floral aromas. Quince, pear, honeysuckle on the nose, then lemon compote, herbs and mint along with perfect weight on the palate, and a long mineral finish. 80% Rolle (Vermentino), and equal parts Ugni Blanc and Clairette filling out the blend. Eben Lillie
From Maillet's old vines of Altesse, this is bottled as appellation Roussette de Savoie. It's dry, but compared to the blend with Jacquere, this Altesse is a bit richer on the nose and the palate. Ripe orchard fruit, roundness and a lingering finish that is refreshingly mineral. Very balanced and just plain delicious. Eben Lillie
This is Maillet's blend of Pinot Noir, Gamay and Mondeuse (turns out, before the AOC was created for Savoie, reds in the region were often blended like this). The vines are around 50 years old on average, and yields are anywhere from 15 to 35 hl/ha (hecto-liters per hectare). Deep and dark on the nose with sultry blackberry and black licorice notes alongside more delicate aromas of strawberry seeds, pomegranate, and savory herbs. The palate is quite fresh and is a bit more straightforward than in years past, with dark berries, smoked meats, white pepper, and a juicy acidity. The finish leans towards the earthy, savory side, making me think that this would be perfect with gamier foods such as venison or lamb. Serve cool and decant. Tim Gagnon
Jacques Maillet is a "grower" in every sense of the word. In 2003, after suffering from a serious illness connected with conventional farming, he reduced the size of his already tiny domaine in order to stop selling his grapes to the local co-op and to begin farming organically. Years later, his wines seem to get better with every vintage. His 2015 Pinot Noir is simply gorgeous. The nose opens with bright, sappy cherry, strawberry liqueur, rose petal, tangerine, and a hint of underbrush. Lithe and lively on the palate, it offers sweet, juicy red raspberry, citrus, smoke, anchored by an intense mineral core. This is no doubt one of Jacques’ most serious wines; structured, long, a bit crunchy, and very elegant. I have a feeling that this would age well over the next 3-5 years, and it is certainly showing beautifully now. Tim Gagnon
2008 marks the first vintage of Vin Jaune ever produced by Domaine des Marnes Blanches. In short, it is beautiful. The nose is lively, almost ethereal, with aromas of toasted cashew, burnt orange rind, eastern spice, pine, and mango skin. Texturally speaking, it is one of the most interesting Vin Jaunes that I have tasted; it offers exquisite fruit with a touch of smoke on the palate and is lithe, intense, incredibly long, and elegant. Lovers of Vin Jaune, look no further: this is the wine for you. Tim Gagnon
For their sous voile wines, Geraud and Pauline Fromont have a separate, three-story cellar that creates an environment conducive to healthy layers of flor. It is dark and humid, with no temperature control, and different levels of humidity on each level influencing the wines in barrel differently. They put the wines in barrel (which are never sulfured) on hot days to assure that the flor develops quickly and they will not be moved again until after a minimum of three years. The Savagnin vines for this cuvée are 45 years old. Much like the 2011, the 2012 Savagnin is classic and precise with an emphasis on balance and freshness. Tropical fruits abound with fenugreek, curry powder, honey-baked walnuts, and saline pears. The palate is sharp and focused with a tangy saltiness and fresh fruit with nuts followed by dried flowers rushing forward on the finish. It is an impressively crafted wine that opens up beautifully at the table and would be perfect with a main course of veal or roasted chicken and also the Comté that will follow! Tim Gagnon
Although the 2015 vintage of this wine just became available, we wanted to highlight the 2014 as it is drinking beautifully right now. The Savagnin for this cuvée is sourced from a few different parcels, all of them vinified separately in neutral barrique before being blended together in stainless steel tank before bottling. It has all of the classic lusciousness that Savagnin can offer while also displaying wonderful purity and tension. This wine definitely has the structure to age well, as long as you have the will power! Tim Gagnon
From a parcel of 35-year-old Chardonnay vines planted in limestone-rich soils, the 2015 Les Molates is pure joy to drink. All of their ouillé wines are vinified the same way: direct press into neutral barrels of various sizes for both alcoholic and malolactic fermentation, and spend eighteen months on the lees before bottling with a touch of SO2. It opens with a luscious nose of orange zest, pineapple, juicy green apple, brown spice, honeysuckle, and butterscotch. Full-bodied but not flabby, it is saline and pure with a bright acidity. This is such a pretty wine, and was a standout at a recent lunch with fried Dungeness crab. Tim Gagnon
Chardonnay sourced from a single parcel of old vines (the same parcel of vines is used to make the Crémant Reserve) in Ste-Agnès planted in white marl. A bit more delicate on the nose than Les Molates, it shows captivating aromas of tropical fruit and a hint of sea breeze. The palate possesses incredible depth and power; more mineral than fruit-forward at first. With time open on the table, it is firing on all cylinders with enticing flavors of lychee, white peach, jasmine, and salty pineapple stalk. Absolutely decant if drinking now, and this will also reward with time in the cellar. Tim Gagnon
Perhaps a bit more ripe than last year, the 2015 Pinot Noir is a fairly fruit-forward wine with brambly red raspberries, Bing cherry, pomegranate, and hibiscus notes on the nose. On the palate it is dense with tinges of pepper and minerals, finishing with gobs of red berry fruits and dried red flowers. This is really a treat to drink now and over the next couple of years. Tim Gagnon
Made from an interesting local strain called Savagnin Muscaté, this is a wine unlike any other Savagnin I’ve had. The vines that provide the fruit for this cuvée are between 57 and 60 years old. Heady and floral on the nose with hints of ripe apricot, and a touch of spice, this almost could be mistaken for an Alsatian wine if it weren’t for Savagnin’s distinctive tropical fruit aromas. Compared to the 2014, it is incredibly broad and pretty on the palate with touch of white pepper and brown spice. Long, floral, and supple, this is a beguiling wine that deserves your attention. Tim Gagnon
Organic and Biodynamic since 1999, Chateau de Mayragues produces beautiful wines from local grape varieties, including this delicious red from 100% Braucol, aka Fer Servadou, grown on clay-limestone terroirs above the Tarn river in Gaillac. The wine is a deep red color and shows lovely aromas of ripe plum, red currant, earth, violets and black pepper. Deep earthy berry fruits on the palate that are lifted by fresh acidity. Full-flavored but not at all heavy at just 12% alcohol. This is a unique and delicious "country wine" - bring on the pâtés, rilletes and rillons, pork chops and roast chicken, full-flavored cheeses, too...
This is a delicious vin doux naturel from Thierry Navarre made from very late-harvested Grenache. We imagine that it's a wine made the way wine used to be made all over the Languedoc before temperature control was an option. A bit sweet and somewhat sherry-like, the aromas are of prune and ripe cherry, with licorice and brown spice. Very long and nutty on the palate, perhaps the best way to imagine this wine is to think of an Oloroso sherry... then extrapolate! Absolutely delicious and a great accompaniment to chocolate, fruit tarts, dried fruits or simply by itself as an apéritif. Thanks to Thierry for finally making a label and shipping us some of this unique local specialty.
Our Biodynamic friends, the Hubert family at Chateau Peybonhomme-les-Tours, have finally made a dry rosé and it's quite delicious. Subtle aromas of strqwberry, peach and citrus on the nose that continue on the round but dry and refreshing palate. This gains weight with time (better on the second day) and has surprising length for a rosé. This is a versatile wine to serve as an aperitif or with grilled tuna, melon and prosciutto, grilled chicken or pork and mild cheeses.
A perfectly balanced wine made in the traditional sous voile style of the Jura. Aged for around 6 years under flor, it showcases succulent aromas of tropical melon, kirsch, orange rind, and salty toasted almond. The palate offers more juicy fruit in this warm vintage, but the fruit is punctuated by smoky, nutty flavors that mingle with exotic spice and framed by bracing acidity. Long and complex, this is a fantastic introduction to this style of winemaking. Tim Gagnon
Les Gaudrettes is also made from Pinot Noir; however the grapes are vinified using carbonic maceration. The result is an invigorating wine rife with sappy red berries, white pepper, blood orange, cherry pit, and a hint of underbrush on the nose. More pretty red fruits and citrus shine through on the palate with a touch of salty minerals. Meatier tannins offer the wine a fair amount of structure, and more high-toned red fruits abound on the finish. This is an excellent vintage for this cuvee, and it is downright delicious. Tim Gagnon
This beautiful Jurançon would be a great finish to your Thanksgiving, sipped along with the pies, cheeses and nuts. And for something sweeter try the Lapuyade Cuvée Marie-Louise....The 2014 Tinou Cuvée Speciale is a magnificent, perfectly balanced Jurançon made from 100% Petit Manseng with approximately 70 grams of RS per liter. The wine shows elegant aromas of pineapple, salty lemon, stone, honeysuckle and brown spice. The palate is dense and complex with lemon, pineapple, lime-flower and stone framed in firm acidity and mineral flavors with white fruits, citrus and earth in the very long finish. This is an outstanding Jurançon to sip by itself or to serve with foie gras, terrines, full-flavored cheeses, chicken in cream, Asian foods and more. Delicous now, this should age beautifully for 20 years or longer. (After two days open the wine really sings!) Thanks to Serge Hondet and his father for 50 years of organic farming!
The 2014 Domaine Tinou Jurançon Cuvée Tradition is made from Petit Manseng and Gros Manseng, grown in Serge Hondet's beautiful vineyard near Lasseube, certified organic since 1964. The soils are essentially sandy clays with stones and gravels from the Pyrenees, over the local limestone, "Calcaire de Lasseube." The wine shows lovely pale gold color, vivid aromas of lemon, pineapple, honeysuckle, stone and brown spice, elegant and subtle. Creamy lemon, pear and stone flavors on the palate, balanced by citrusy acids. 62 grams of RS per liter, but seems dryer. Lovely finish of lemon, exotic fruit and minerals. Serve this lovely wine with foie gras, patés, full-flavored cheeses and lemony desserts or just sip by itself. Highly recommended.
Grenache, Grenache Gris and Carignan, aged for six years in ancient barrels, bottled without collage (fining) or filtration. High-toned red fruits, blood orange, brown spice, tobacco and cocoa aromas, really complex and lovely. Chalky red fruits, earth and cocoa with fresh acidity on the palate. Ripe and deep but fresh and light as well, really balanced and lovely. A wonderful aperitf and of course with fruit desserts and chocolate. Bravo to Domaine Traginer! DL
(This full-flavored white would be fabulous with a Bouillabaisse made with seafood from Blue Moon Fish - or perhaps monkfish in a wine sauce) An outstanding and unusual white made by Jean-François Deu at the organic/biodynamic estate, Domaine du Traginer (Mule-driver) in Banyuls and Collioure. Made from Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris and Malvasia from low-yielding vines, on steep slopes of schistes above the Mediterranean. Light gold color. Intense and beautiful aromas of peach, lemon, stone, almond and pine with hints of red fruits and earth. Quite complex! The palate is supple and dense with mineral flavors, white and yellow fruits, citrus, pine and brown spice that linger in the very long finish with firm acidity. This is a delicious and versatile wine that will accompany shellfish, grilled fish, chicken in sauce, Asian foods and more. Highly recommended! David Lillie
Made from a blend of Grenache Noir, Carignan, Mourvèdre and Syrah, biodynamic estate Domaine du Traginer's Cuvée Octobre, harvested later than the Vieille Foudre bottling displays a bit more warmth and ripeness than the "regular" cuvée. A bit reticent aromatically upon opening, with air it reveals aromas of dark blackberry and black cherry, with notes of wood smoke, olive and orange peel. The palate though rich and ripe, displays good freshness with good detail and fresh acidity. While young and quite delicious now, this shows fine potential which should emerge with a few years in bottle or decanting now. Enjoy this with grilled lamb, braised beef or strong cheeses. John McIlwain
This is an unusual Collioure Rosé made by Jean-François Deu at the biodynamic Domaine du Traginer from one-third each Grenache, Mourvèdre and Syrah. Made with minimal sulfites, the wine is reductive and needs decanting or aeration, then shows opaque onion-skin color, aromas of ripe peach, raspberry, earth and ripe melon with brown spice. The palate is dense with peach, blood orange, stone and dried herbs, intriguing and very long. The wine deepens nicely with time open—really an itriguing natural rosé that will accompany a fish soup, grilled tuna, chicken and pork dishes. Recommended for lovers of natural wines.
This superb wine is made from Grenache Gris, Grenache Noir, Grenache Blanc and Muscat, aged for 13 years in small, very old barrels. Complex aromas of citrus, tea, prune, flowers and caramel. The palate is balanced, with a pretty melange of citrus, white fruits, earth and secondary flavors, very long and lifted by nice acidity. A gorgeous vin doux naturel that will accompany aged cheeses, figs and foie gras, or beautiful by itself. Really a unique and delicious wine. DL
From vines that Christine's father planted about 40 years ago, this was an instant hit with our staff and local customers alike. As is typical of the Villet Chardonnay offerings, the wine is not made in a sous-voile style, but vinified traditionally. It's fresh, mineral, and marked by a textural complexity that is compelling and exciting to the palate. Eben Lillie