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Staff Picks for Thanksgiving - What Squanto and Massasoit Were Missing...

The first Thanksgiving was a three-day party feauturing venison, wild fowl, beans, corn and squash, and although there's no record of any beverages present, one has to imagine that, perhaps with the Indians' help, they found something to drink. (Yes, the Puritans enjoyed alcohol - in moderation, of course.) Which brings us to our annual Staff Picks for Thanksgiving, a fabulous group of wines chosen to complement the menu and please your guests. As Eric Asimov pointed out in the New York Times last week, reds should be light to medium-bodied with pure fruit and good acidity, perhaps like a good Beaujolais. (He chose the light and lovely Frappato from Valle dell' Acate). Whites should be flavorful, with good acidity - built to stand up to the creamed onions and meaty stuffing. And why not a good Rosé or a sparkling pear cider? So here's our eclectic and food-friendly turkey-day list, with plenty of time for local and national delivery... Cheers! (All prices, except sparkling wine/Champagne, discount 10% on a case or mixed case)
 
 

Items Mentioned in this Article:

 
Beaujolais

Descombes, Georges 2007 Chiroubles Vieilles Vignes

A great vintage for Descombes, this is perhaps better balanced than the 2006, with super-pretty, bright raspberry and strawberry aromas and a beautifully lush but light palate. This is almost a true carbonic maceration, which starts very slowly at low temperatures. A joy to drink over the next 3 to 5 years and a great choice for Thanksgiving, serve cool! (As would be the less expensive Regnie or Morgon from Descombes, not to mention our perennial favorite, the Terres Dorees Beaujolais a l'Ancien Vieilles Vignes...).
red | 44 in stock | Natural | $27.99

Vissoux (Pierre-Marie Chermette) 2008 Beaujolais Cuvée Traditionelle Vieilles Vignes

It's no secret that we are big fans of Jean-Paul Brun, but it's important to remember that there are other growers making fantastic traditional wines in Beaujolais; Pierre-Marie Chermette is a first class example. Instead of chaptilizing like many of their peers, the Chermettes keep minimal yields that promote ripe fruit flavors. This old-vine village cuvee has great dark berry tones expressed clearly over the light 11.5 % alcohol frame. The finish has saline-laced minerality that expresses the unique terroir of Beaujolais. JR
red | 18 in stock | Natural | $16.99
 
Misc. France

Tournelle 2004 Arbois Ploussard de Monteiller

Sieze this opportunity to taste a ploussard/poulsard with a bit of age from a recently discovered domaine in Arbois. The wine is burnished and pale in the glass with beautiful savory, roasty aromas that carry through to a resolved palate. Certainly a bottle for the table, this somewhat ethereal wine finishes with firm Jurassian minerality. Decant for best results. -msb
red | 19 in stock | Natural | $23.99

Bornard, Annie and Philippe 2006 Arbois Pupillin Melon le Rouge Queue

Philippe Bornard farms six hectares of vines in the tiny village of Pupillin. He works biodynamically and avoids the use of sulfur whenever possible though, like many natural winemakers, he gives his export bottles a small dose. Bornard's Melon Queue Rouge offers a nose full of baked apples and warm spice along with hints of oxidation. The palate is voluptuous with sweet fruit but balanced by the brilliant acidity that characterizes wines from the Jura. Long and lingering with further delightfully oxidative notes on the finish. -MSB
white | 30 in stock | $32.99
 
Rhone

Gonon 2007 Saint-Joseph Rouge

(From vines in Tournon, Mauves and St.-Jean-de-Muzols including a two and one-half hectare parcel of old vines from Raymond Trollat.) Sensational, pure red and black fruit aromas float far above the glass, darker fruits, plum, violets, and peppery spices on the palate. Not as dense or structured as the 2006, but the fruit is more aromatic, softer and more forward. A voluptuous yet light-on-it's-feet Saint-Joseph to drink over the next 6 to 8 years, with great happiness. (John Livingstone-Learmonth, the foremost writer on the Northern Rhone, puts the Gonons in his STGT group - Soil to Glass Transfer, along with Clape, Chave, Balthazar, Barge and a few others...) This is a sensational value - a profound and delicious wine!
red | 5 in stock | Natural | $28.99
 
Spain Table

Lopez de Heredia 1999 Rioja Gravonia Blanco

Maybe too obvious of a pick for Thanksgiving. This wine has been recommended as a Turkey day quaffer by a colleague in this shop before. Eric Asimov seems to tout Lopez de Heredia's wines endlessly, but, hey, I have drunk this bottling from one of my heroes of traditional Riojan wine-making seemingly every holiday I have celebrated here in this great city. Quite simply this wine wows me with it's friendliness with the various foods you would throw at it, Thanksgiving day, any day. 1999 Gravonia has an incomparable freshness and vibrancy for a wine of this age, showing exotic yet understated notes of passion fruit, peach pith, golden delicious apple, coconut and cashew; this is a festival of aromatics and texture and a deal at it's current asking price. cb (More inventory arrives Monday 11/23)
white | 1 in stock | $24.99

Benaza 2008 Monterrei Mencia

Another gem from Galicia; pretty and light-bodied with incisive cranberry/raspberry-like red fruit flavors complimented by deep spicy notes framed on a backbone of juicy acidity and minerals. Serve cool and pair with anything on the Thanksgiving table. cb
red | 19 in stock | $11.99
 
Misc. Italy

Nusserhof (Heinrich Mayr) 2008 Südtirol Lagrein Kretzer (Rosato)

An exciting and unusual (in the best way) natural wine made from Lagrein, a red grape native to the Alto Adige. Complex herbal and spicey aromas join citrus and cherry fruits all of the way to a long finish. A light and dry wine that offers much more detail than most are used to from a rose. JR
pink | 37 in stock | Natural | $23.99

Occhipinti 2008 IGT Sicilia SP 68

Occhipinti makes insanely pure and focused wines. This blend is light-medium-bodied, with lovely crisp black cherry fruit, stony earth, a little bit of garrigue-type herbs, great concentration without fat, and a haunting long finish.
We might think – with some justification – of Sicily as a hot climate that makes big dusty flabby wine of no particular distinction, but this wine begins to distill the contradictions of this complex place, balancing hot and cold, sweet and sour, intensity and grace. A great choice for Thanksgiving, this lovely wine will complement the meal and please your crowd. Serve cool!… JW
red | 18 in stock | BioDynamic | $21.99

Ca de Noci 2007 Rosso Frizzante Sottobosco

A unique and delicious sparkling red made from Grasparosso, Malbo Gentile, Montericco and Sgavetta. Woodsy, brambly dark fruits and accelerating tannins with a hint of anise. Finishes absolutely dry and fresh. The fruit flavor profile of this wine is almost a side dish in itself on the Thanksgiving table...move over Ocean Spray.
red sparkling | 18 in stock | Organic | $21.99

Valle dell'Acate 2008 Il Frappato Vittoria Frappato

Its no secret that Frappato is becoming a favorite at Chambers Street. With high toned fruit, great acidity, and refreshing when cool, we think you should be excited about it too. The Valle delle'Acate is aged 6 months in stainless steel, and then 3 months in the bottle. The wine is characterized by blood orange and berry fruit flavors. (Eric Azimov's pick for Thanksgiving and an excellent choice.) JR
red | 37 in stock | $17.99
 
Loire

Clos Roche Blanche 2008 Touraine Gamay (Real Cork)

The very low yields at Clos Roche Blanche in 2008 have given more concentration and complexity of fruit to the Gamay. Ripe aromas of plum and strawberry confit with floral notes. The palate is dense with ripe fruit , floral and earthy flavors, with good acidity to match. Quite luscious to drink now, it should also cellar well - how long? Catherine and Didier opened a 1975 in their cellar this past winter which was aging but lovely.... A great choice for Thanksgiving from a beautiful organic vineyard, made by two of the nicest people on the planet...DL
red | 26 in stock | Organic | $16.99

Belliviere 2007 Jasnieres Les Rosiers

A perfectly balanced and superbly elegant Chenin Blanc, this lovely wine from Eric and Christine Nicolas would be a great choice for Thanksgiving. The creamy lemon, herbal and apple fruit is balanced by good acidity and a very long finish. Outstanding organic vineyard work gives this wine the character to complement your holiday meal in a subtle and delicious way...
white | 17 in stock | Organic | $28.99

Louvetrie (Jo Landron) 2008 Muscadet Sevre et Maine Hermine d'Or

A great Muscadet by Jo Landron coming from an organic vineyard on orthogneiss, rich in iron, with a pebbly topsoil. Lime-flower, bitter melon and sea-air aromas, hints of licorice and citrus on the palate with bracing acidity and minerality. This outstanding and refreshing wine will liven up your Thanksgiving, as will our other great Muscadets from Pepiere, Luneau-Papin and Bregeon...
white | 21 in stock | Organic | $13.99

Puzelat, Thierry 2008 Touraine Pineau D'Aunis La Tesnière

In 2008, this wine is deeper and denser than usual with lovely ripe raspberry and cranberry fruit with hints of white pepper. The palate is supple and framed by high acidity making this a perfect accompaniment to the rillettes and rillons of Touraine, or whatever charcuterie you can get your hands on. (And the unique flavors of Pineau D'Aunis are a great accompaniment to Thanksgiving dinner, even the cranberry sauce...)
red | 25 in stock | Natural | $19.99

Pinon, Francois NV Vouvray Brut

From a plot of very old vines, Francois' Brut NV (actually 2006) is kept on the lees for 18 months before bottling. It has pretty apple and toasty flavors with good acidity balancing the fruit. A great alternative to Champagne and a wonderful choice for Thanksgiving!
white sparkling | 9 in stock | Organic | $18.99

Bordelet 2007 Sparkling Pear Cider Poire Authentique

This would be a great start, or finish, to Thanksgiving dinner with beautiful, slightly sweet pear fruit - a great aperitif or a fabulous complement to pumpkin and mince pies... (For something dryer and more Champagne-like, try the superbly elegant Poire Granite, also from Eric Bordelet)
white sparkling off-dry | 15 in stock | BioDynamic | $14.99 | Non-Discountable
 
United States Red

Quivira 2006 Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel

For America's unique holiday, I reach for America's unique grape:
Zinfandel. The rich berry flavors and juicy structure pair perfectly with turkey and all of the trimmings. Quivira meticulously adheres to biodynamic wine making principles including fermentation from natural yeasts in the vineyard.
Perfect for fans of forward style wines, and organic enthusiasts who want to check in on California's natural scene. JR
red | 6 in stock | $18.99
 
Italy Tuscany

Montesecondo 2008 IGT Toscana Rosso

A great vintage for the Toscana Rosso by Silvio Messana. Lovely Sangiovese fruit, quite dense and earthy. Silvio farms organically, ferments with wild yeasts and bottles unfiltered. This wine seems to improve with each vintage, the problem is that Silvio doesn't make enough of it. A lovely option for Thanksgiving dinner and a great value!
red | 27 in stock | Organic | $16.99
 
Germany

Busch, Clemens 2006 Mosel Vom Roten Schiefer Riesling

Literally titled "From Red Slate, " this wine would be an Auslese Feinherb if Busch sought to label it as such. The red slate contribution adds warm and deftly spicy notes, while the palate brims with wonderful floral, apple and mineral tones. RSG
white off-dry | 34 in stock | Organic | $24.99
 
Austria

Nikolaihof 2007 Wachau Gruner Veltliner Im Weingebirge Federspiel

After some time in the bottle the 2007 has settled into itself and has taken on a new expressiveness. Unique and aromatically intense this is a substantial white with full body and structure while maintaining elegance with a vibrational energy. This will pair well with a diversity of foods. RSG
white | 22 in stock | $32.99
 
Champagne

Goutorbe, Henri NV Ay Cuvee Prestige Brut

This is an unconventional Champagne. It goes beyond the expected tones of toast and subtle browned butter with a presence of rye, barley and truffle. It has an effective acidity without losing creaminess - this is the perfect Champagne for untraditional pairings with savory foods and meats. RSG


white sparkling | 14 in stock | $43.99 | Non-Discountable
 
Bordeaux Red

Leoville Las Cases 1989 St. Julien

Sometimes we get old wine from cellars that looks brand new, like a library release ex-cellar direct from the chateau. And then sometimes we get wine from a very cold and very humid cellar and the labels look awful and tattered and the lead capsules are all corroded and then you get to the cork and the wine and they are perfect. The fill is to the middle of the neck, fantastic for a twenty year old wine. The condition of the wine in the bottle is magnificent, the condition of the label is atrocious! But we don't drink labels, we drink wine, which brings us to the 1989 Leoville we just received.
Leoville las Cases is the greatest wine of Saint Julien. The blend is 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot. Its next door neighbor is the esteemed Chateau Latour. This 1989 Leoville is drinking beautifully at 20 years of age, it is a deep ruby red starting to turn brick red at the rim, the tannins have dropped out, it has a rich bouquet of cedar and plums and mulberries and has become very soft and supple. This wine has reached its plateau of maturity and has another 10 years ahead of it. If you need a wine that has a pretty label than this is not for you, every bottle comes in its own individual plastic bag to preserve the remnants of the labels that are left.


red | 10 in stock | $224.99
 
Burgundy White

Cadette (Domaine de la) 2007 Bourgogne Vezelay La Chatelaine

Quoting from David Schildknecht's wonderful review in The Art of Eating "At 12 percent alcohol this wine is sheer refreshment, yet there is palpable richness, and at the table the wine's flavors create complexity as worthy of higher math as of haute cuisine...." Chardonnay from Kimmeridgian soils, organically farmed, this would be a lovely choice for Thanksgiving!
white | 36 in stock | Organic | $21.99
 

 
Baudrys harvesting (Matthieu and Maxime)

The Great 2007 Chinons of Bernard and Matthieu Baudry!

In our opinion, Bernard Baudry and his son Matthieu have been making the most elegant wines from Chinon for many years, wines that are subtle and detailed expressions of the various terroirs in and around Cravant les Coteaux. Their wines are firmly rooted in thousands of years of history as well as the uniques soils of Chinon and the great work they do in the vineyard and in the cellar. While we love the basic cuvée, Les Granges, which comes from sand and gravel soils near the Vienne, it's the Domaine, Les Grézeaux and La Croix Boissée that year after year amaze us with their focus, depth and yes, affordability, making this estate one of our favorites in the Loire Valley. Which brings us to the 2007 vintage, a year that was difficult by anyone's standards, and yet the low yields and good acidities did enable the top producers to make some excellent whites and lovely lighter-bodied reds. The Baudry's however, excelled. My first encounter with these wines in February of 2008 resulted in repetitive notes of "elegant, balanced, long, lovely fruit..." The following year I was very impressed with the development of these lovely wines - lighter but perhaps prettier and more refreshing than the 2005's and definitely finer and better balanced than the 2006s. "It's a very transparent vintage" says Matthieu. "In a hot year the terroir is often less apparent, but in 2007 the soils speak very clearly." The Baudrys are wonderfully friendly and straightforward people - we're proud to recommend their delicious wines! Our normal 10% discount on a case or mixed case applies... (Here are their notes on the vintage, roughly translated.)
 
 

Items Mentioned in this Article:

Baudry, Bernard 2007 Chinon Cuvée Domaine

The grapes for this beautiful wine come from 35 year-old vines on both gravel and clay/limestone soils. As with all of their wines, the grapes are hand-harvested and fermented slowly with wild yeasts. Bernard and Matthieu do fantastic work in the vineyard (though not yet certified, they work with organic methods)and age this wine in old wood, both large cuves and barrels. Lovely strawberry/raspberry aromas with lush fruit on the palate balanced by refreshing acidity and chalky minerality. It's drinking beautifully now but will soften and develop for another 5 to 8 years. This is a great vintage for the Domaine Cuvee - only 50 cases for the year so don't delay.
red | 18 in stock | $17.99

Baudry, Bernard et Mathieu 2007 Chinon Les Grézeaux

Les Grezeaux is a parcel of 50 year-old vines at the base of the Coteaux de Sonnay on gravel soil over clay and silex. The wine ages in 3 to 5 year-old barriques for 12 months. The 2007 has gorgeous pure high-toned fruit aromas with a dense but refreshing palate of raspberry and strawberry confit ending with hints of chocolate. Supple and forward enough to drink young, due to the influence of the gravel, it will age beautifully for 10 to 15 years or more. (The 1989 is lovely now, and though the 2007 is lighter, the good acidity should contribute to long aging).
red | 43 in stock | $21.99

Baudry, Bernard et Mathieu 2007 Chinon La Croix Boissée

From a hillside vineyard of clay over limestone facing due south. Fermentation in wooden cuves with pigeage, aged in barriques of 1 to 3 years for about 14 months. This is tannic with deep, dark, very ripe fruit but still possessing bright acidity and perfect balance. This will need some time before drinking but will become a very complex and elegant Chinon - peak drinking perhaps between 10 and 20 years from now. "The most consistent wines in my cellar are Loire Valley reds" said a customer of ours last week - skip those 100-point 2007 Chateauneufs and buy more Chinon! (Only 10 cases available, with hopefully more to come...)
red | 31 in stock | $31.99
 

 

Grenache!

Fall is an ideal time for wine lovers to take a fresh look at Grenache, a grape known and loved for yielding wines with robust fruit, abundant spice, and plush texture. These are the succulent and often sweet flavors of fruit- ripened in southern climates- that initially caused many of us to become besotted by wine. To palates that have been bathed by crisp white, rosé, and light-bodied red all summer long, the warmth of Grenache is just what’s needed as the weather cools down, sometimes too quickly for comfort. Don’t wait for that old bottle of Chateauneuf or Priorat to remind you what there is to love about this grape. Here are a number of wines available to normal humans that have the potential to dispel the notion that the flavors of Grenache are in any way one dimensional.

 
 

Items Mentioned in this Article:

Barral, Leon 2006 Faugères

What a great producer. Too bad he does’nt get the attention he deserves. This is a blend of Syrah, Mourvedre, Grenache and Carignan. It is a pure, barnyardy, meaty, leathery, tobaccoey, dark colored wine with great intensity and focus. It is a whole lotta wine for the money with complexity you would find in something more akin to Cote Rotie or Cornas. The tannins are ripe and sweet and leave a nice swath of velvet in the mouth. A wonderful wine and something I will be glugging with steak, veal and sausage this spring.
red | 2 in stock | Natural | $24.99

Centeilles 2005 Minervois La Livinière Clos Centeilles

Patricia Boyer-Domergues at Clos Centeilles is on of the heroes of the quailty resurgence in the Languedoc. Her wines remain entirely traditional, with no new oak or over-extraction, just ripe naturally grown fruit that beautifully expreses the terroirs of the slopes of La Liviniere in the Minervois. Grenache is blended with Mourvedre and Syrah giving a rich, complex wine with layers of spicy cherry and plum fruit and aromas of thyme and black cherry with notes of smoke and meat. While this wine will age nicely for another five to eight years it's drinking fabulously now and is an excellent value...
red | 19 in stock | $21.99

Texier 2005 CDR Villages Saint-Gervais Vieilles Vignes des Cadinieres

From 85 year-old Grenache vines in Saint-Gervais this wine has lovely chocolatey/cherry aromas and very pure, elegant spiced cherry fruit. With moderate alcohol (13.2 degrees) and good acidity, this wine should cellar well for 10 years and more.... This lovely wine should be decanted to bring out the beautifully subtle and complex aromatics - an unusual and delicious example of Grenache!

red | 25 in stock | $23.99

Bielsa, Masia 2008 Campo de Borja Tinto Garnacha VV

This juicy medium to full bodied old-vine Garnacha shows exuberant black cherry fruit and delicate floral notes with a tangy minerality and grippy tannins in the finish. A wine that is pure in character and a delicious value. cb
red | 45 in stock | $10.99

Monpertuis 2007 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Classique

Paul Jeune of Domaine Monpertuis uses at least 75% Grenache in his cuvee classique, which gives the wine a wealth of juicy mixed berry fruit on the nose and palate. The remainder of the cepage is Mourvedre, Syrah, and Cinsault. The old vines at Monpertuis (between 60 and 110 years!) impart depth and great concentration to the wines. The objective with the cuvee classique is to make a Chateauneuf that can benefit from some time in the cellar but that has approachable tannins and can be enjoyed young as well. The wine is very skillfully balanced; its well-integrated and relatively moderate alcohol coming in at 14% and melding quite compellingly with the other flavors and textures of the wines. A rare treat! -MSB
red | 33 in stock | $41.99

Bernabeleva 2008 Vinos de Madrid Camino de Navaherreros

This is a rich and powerful expression of old-vine Garnacha; pretty red fruits, dried spices, and scorched earth flavors lead to a long sappy and spicy finish. Serious stuff for the price. cb

Some background on the estate worth noting is that the estate is practicing bio-dynamic and will be 100% certified bio-dynamic as of their 2009 vintage. They ferment their wines in large, upright old wood fermentors with long macerations and use indigenous yeasts.

Their vineyards are comprised of sandy soils (decomposed granite), at elevations of 550 to over 1,000 meters. Many of their vines are over 80 years old, with a minimum vine age of 30 years. The location of their vineyards and their altitude result in wide diurnal temperature shifts, allowing for ripeness with great balance.
red | 6 in stock | $13.99
 

 

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Upcoming
Tastings & Events

Saturday, December 05
Hirsch Family Vineyards
4:00pm to 7:00pm
Join us and Jasmine Hirsch of Hirsch Vineyards as we taste some of the most remarkable Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from California... proving that unique, terroir-driven wines can come from California! Yum.
 
Saturday, December 19
Annual Holiday Champagne Tasting
4:00pm to 7:00pm
The final weekend before the holidays we will be pouring Champagnes from the Terry Theise Portfolio! Come in, have fun and pick out some festive bubbly for your holiday celebrations.